Fern Canyon Hike
Where: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, California
Distance: One mile
Type: Lollypop loop
Elevation gain: 500 feet
Difficulty: Easy (or moderate to difficult if blocked by log jams)
Map:
Overview:
Fern Canyon is one of those magical places that are truly unique. I’ve never seen another place quite like it. You won’t find redwoods here, the canyon is neither deep nor wide, and the trail is short. But the vertical walls completely covered in ferns – six different species if I recall correctly – are the attraction here. And the fact that the canyon is narrow gives the experience an intimacy that grander spaces lack.
The “trail” through the canyon does not actually exist. You’re hiking the creek bed. In the summer and fall, boardwalks are strategically placed to help hikers, but come prepared to get your feet wet. And when I did this hike there was a huge log jam in the middle of the hike that spanned the canyon from wall to wall and necessitated climbing over, around, or under the logs. But even if you go only part way and must turn around, it is still a worthwhile hike.
This is a popular hike, and in the summer (May 15 to September 15) a free timed entry parking permit is required. The permit is only available online from the park website and must be obtained at least one day in advance. You can opt for either a morning or afternoon window. Note that dogs are not permitted on the trail.
Getting there:
Fern Canyon is located in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park on the northern California coast, approximately 50 miles north of Eureka.
Coming from the south, turn left off US 101 onto Davison Road 2.7 miles north of Orick. Follow Davison Road to the beach where it turns north and becomes Gold Bluffs Beach Road. The Fern Canyon trailhead is at the end of the road. If you’re coming from the north, the Davison Road turnoff is 2.3 miles south of the south end of the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway.
Davison Road and Gold Bluffs Beach Road are gravel and rough in places, and there are two small creeks that must be forded. A high ground clearance vehicle is recommended, but not absolutely needed, at least in the summer. The road may be closed during and after storms. Check the park’s current conditions webpage for off season closures.
Trailhead:
The trailhead at the end of Gold Bluffs Beach Road has space for about 30 vehicles and has restrooms. Drinking water is not available – bring your own.
The hike:
The trail starts at the northeast corner of the parking lot. In about one quarter of a mile you will come to a junction. Stay right and follow the creek up the canyon. Fern Canyon is only about a quarter mile long, but it’s a magical quarter mile. You’ll want to take your time and savor this short hike. And it will seem longer because of all the scrambling you have to do since the trail is the creek bed.
The logjam we encountered in the middle of the hike also took quite a while to negotiate. Once you reach the head of the canyon, you will see a trail leading into the forest to your left which will take you back to the junction you passed at the beginning of the canyon. Or you can simply turn around and retrace your steps through the canyon.
Best time to go:
The trail is open year-round, but because the trail is the creek bed and the canyon is narrow, the canyon may not be accessible in late fall and winter. The road to the parking area may also be closed during and after storm events. The best time to visit Fern Canyon might be early fall (after September 15). It’s likely to be much less crowded than in the summer months and a permit is not required.
Other area attractions and activities:
There are too many attractions in the Redwoods to list them all. Gold Bluffs Beach is worth a stop on your way back from your hike. There’s also a campground there if you want to make Fern Canyon more than just a day trip. The Prairie Creek Redwoods visitor center, near the south end of the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway is also worth a stop. And there are several worthwhile hikes through the redwoods off the parkway to the north. And the other parks that make up the Redwoods National and State Parks complex all offer outstanding hiking experiences. See my California Coast Redwoods post for more information on the wonders of the Redwoods.
Posted March 3, 2024 by Alan K. Lee
All photos © Alan K. Lee