nature photography Archives - Pacific Northwest Explorer

Spokane, Washington

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

My wife and I had driven through Spokane once or twice on our way to Glacier National Park, but it had been decades since I had actually set foot in Spokane. My wife, though, had spent a few days there a couple of years ago and had enjoyed her time there. That got me to thinking about paying the town another visit, so we packed up our bags and spent a few days exploring the city this past summer.

History

The city gets its name from the Spokane (or Spokan) Tribe of Native Americans that lived in what is now eastern Washington for millennia prior to the arrival of European settlers. The first European presence in the Spokane area was a trading post of the North West Company that opened in 1810. The city of Spokane was incorporated (originally as Spokane Falls) in 1881, the same year that the Northern Pacific Railway line was completed, linking Spokane to both Seattle and the Midwest and East Coast of the United States.

Two years after the city was incorporated, gold was discovered near Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, about 30 miles east of Spokane. That set off a boom in both Spokane’s economy and population. By 1890 Spokane’s population was almost 20,000. By 1910 it exceeded 100,000. The city was powered by electricity generated at Spokane Falls by the Washington Water Power Company. Many of the buildings constructed in that period are still standing, giving the visitor a visual link to the city’s early history.

With the decline of the mining industry in the early 20^th century and then the advent of the Great Depression, Spokane’s economy stagnated and its population plateaued. By the 1960s Spokane was in serious decline. To turn things around, the local business community began a planning process that eventually led to Spokane hosting the environmentally themed World’s Fair, Expo ’74, and the revitalization of the downtown area. Today, Spokane has a lively downtown, the site of Expo ’74 has become Riverfront Park, and you’ll find public artworks scattered throughout the city.

Getting There

We chose to drive from our home in the Portland area. It’s a long drive – 350 miles and 5½ hours (plus any stops along the way). It’s a little shorter trip from Seattle – 280 miles and 4¼ hours. Flying from Portland to Spokane takes just over an hour and tickets can be had for as little as $150 dollars. Cost and flight time from Seattle are similar. A brief search of Amtrak routes and ticket costs yielded a quickest trip from either Seattle or Portland of 7½ hours and basic coach fares of $50-70 (one way), but you might need to be flexible on your departure and return dates, and the cheapest tickets were for overnight trips.

Our Visit

I’m old enough to remember a trip my older brother and I took to see the World’s Fair in 1974. Although I didn’t remember much about the actual fair, one of the things that left a lasting impression on me was Spokane Falls. Not many cities have a major waterfall in the middle of the downtown area. The fair spread across both banks of the Spokane River and Havermale and Canada Islands in the river. Canada Island is literally in the middle of the two cascades of the upper falls.

Most of the Expo ’74 structures were dismantled after the fair closed, but the Spokane Pavilion and the bones of the United States Pavilion still stand. The U.S. Pavilion was an open air structure with a fabric roof. The roof is gone, but the supporting structure remains, the cables that supported the roof now strung with hundreds of lights that are lit every night. The ground below is now a grassy park, part of Riverfront Park, the jewel of Spokane’s downtown.

We spent three days exploring downtown Spokane. Riverfront Park and Spokane Falls kept drawing us back. It’s really quite a marvelous area. Spokane is still the second largest city in Washington (the metropolitan area has a population of over 600,000), but it’s also small enough to have retained something of a small town vibe, something Seattle, Portland, and Vancouver, BC, definitely lack.

On our last day in town, we drove to Riverside State Park, a 9000 acre park along the banks of the Spokane and Little Spokane Rivers, about five miles downstream of downtown Spokane. The Bowl and Pitcher area of the park features a picnic area, ranger station, and campground on the east bank of the Spokane River, and miles of hiking trails on the west bank.

The trail network is accessed by a pedestrian-only suspension bridge spanning the Spokane River. We crossed the bridge and did a short hike along the river, but we could easily have spent all day there.

Later that day we visited the Japanese garden and rose garden in Manito Park before returning to our hotel to get ready for the long drive back to Portland.

Spokane Hoopfest. Photo sourced from Wikimedia Commons. Photo by Tahota

Spokane Hoopfest. Photo sourced from Wikimedia Commons. Photo by Mike Tigas

We left Spokane the next morning, the day before the start of Hoopfest 2025. The Spokane Hoopfest is the largest 3-on-3 basketball tournament in the world. Every year more than 6000 teams and 25,000 players take part in the tournament that features 450 courts covering 45 city blocks and draws more than 250,000 spectators. It is a very, very big deal. One I had never heard of. And I’m sorry we missed it.

Other Area Attractions

There are a number of other areas near Spokane that are worth visiting. We took day trips to both Sandpoint, Idaho, and Coeur d’Alene, Idaho during our weeklong visit. Look for future posts on both on this site in the coming months. Outdoor enthusiasts might want to take the 30 mile journey to Mount Spokane, northeast of the city. And if you drive to Spokane, or fly and rent a car, Grand Coulee Dam and Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area are about a 90 minute drive west of Spokane, making for an easy day trip or a worthwhile detour on a trip back to Seattle. We didn’t make that side trip, but we did make a detour to Palouse Falls, a spectacular 200 foot high falls on the Palouse River south of Ritzville, Washington, on our way back to Portland.

One of the many early 20th century buildings in downtown Spokane

Upper Falls Powerhouse, Washington Water Power Co.

Conclusion

I was surprised by how much I enjoyed my time in Spokane. It’s a beautiful city with an interesting history and lively downtown. Visiting the site of Expo ’74 brought back memories that I had long forgotten, and our side trips to Sandpoint, Coeur d’Alene, and Palouse Falls added to the enjoyment of our trip. I think we’ll be back. (And if you go, make sure to stop by Rosie’s Restaurant and try their breakfast burrito. It’s one of the best I’ve ever had).

Posted September 10, 2025

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Cape Arago

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

Cape Arago, on the southern Oregon coast south of the mouth of Coos Bay, is not as impressive as some of the other headlands on the Oregon coast, but it has a diversity of attractions that no other place on the coast can match. It’s mostly known for the three state parks (Sunset Bay, Shore Acres, and Cape Arago) that line its shores. But there’s also a state natural site, a county park (Bastendorff Beach), a privately run RV park, the decommissioned Cape Arago Lighthouse, and a golf course, in addition to scenic offshore islands, sea stacks, rocky shorelines, a reef with an active sea lion rookery, five beaches, two campgrounds, a historic botanical garden, and miles of hiking trails. Tens of thousands of visitors make the trip to this remote section of the Pacific coast every year. And the surrounding area has an abundance of attractions as well.

Bastendorff Beach

The mile long Bastendorff Beach, located adjacent to the south jetty at the mouth of Coos Bay, is the largest of the five beaches on the Cape Arago shoreline. Bastendorff Beach County Park has a 99 site campground (74 RV sites with water and electric hookups and 25 tent sites with no hookups), an 18 unit group campground, two RV dump stations, a large day use area with two picnic shelters, a fire pit and barbecue, horseshoe and basketball courts, a children’s playground, and easy access to the beach. There is also a private RV campground (Sun Outdoors Coos Bay) at the southwest end of the beach.

Yoakam Point State Natural Site

Yoakam Point separates Bastendorff Beach from Lighthouse Beach. Hiking trails (mostly unmaintained but passable) give access to scenic views of the rocky cliffs of the point, Bastendorff Beach, and Cape Arago Lighthouse. The site has no rest rooms or other amenities – just scenic splendor. (You might be tempted to scramble down the cliff from Yoakam Point to Lighthouse Beach, but I would advise against it. The cliff lined beach, like all Oregon beaches, is public, but the bluff is lined with private homes with no public access point. Access from Yoakam Point is possible but dangerous. Best to leave this one to the residents. They think they own it anyway.)

Cape Arago Lighthouse

Cape Arago Lighthouse is located on Chiefs Island just off Gregory Point between Lighthouse Beach and Sunset Beach. The existing lighthouse structure is the third in a series of lighthouses on the island, dating back to 1866. The first was replaced by a taller structure with a better light in 1909. That was replaced by the current structure in 1934. In 1966 the light was automated and continued in service until 2006 when it was decommissioned.

The lighthouse keeper’s residence was on the mainland, connected to Chiefs Island by a wooden bridge. The bridge stood until it was destroyed by storms in the winter of 2012-13. The first two lighthouse towers, other structures on the island, and the keeper’s house have all been demolished over the years. All that remains are the third tower and some of the piers that supported the bridge.

Sunset Bay State Park

A beautiful, crescent shaped beach at Sunset Bay State Park wraps around a shallow bay protected by a reef and flanked by rocky outcroppings. The inner bay makes for a safe swimming area and a boat ramp on the north end provides a good launching point for small boats, kayaks, and standup paddle boards.

My wife and I have kayaked out of Sunset Bay on numerous occasions over the years. On some of those days the calm waters of the bay belied rougher water offshore (large swells and/or significant wind chop) and we either stayed in the bay or close to it. But other times the ocean conditions were benign enough to allow us to safely get out into deep water and explore the surrounding coastline.

On one of those occasions, a sunny, windless day with a flat, glassy ocean, we spent most of a day paddling south to Simpson Reef to watch the sea lions, and then back north, where we circumnavigated Chiefs Island where the Cape Arago Lighthouse sits. And a lot of the time we just drifted on the amazingly flat ocean and soaked up the sunshine and the views of the shoreline. Quite a day.

Sunset Bay State Park offers not only one of the finest beaches on the Oregon coast, but also 65 campsites (30 RV sites with full hookups and 35 tent sites with electricity and water), eight yurts (three are pet friendly) and a group tent camp that will accommodate up to 25 people. Three of the campsites and three of the yurts are accessible to campers with disabilities. We have camped there many times and have always enjoyed our stay.

Shore Acres State Park

The park is named for Shore Acres (originally spelled Shoreacres), the estate of Louis Simpson, son of the 19^th century shipping magnate, Asa Meade Simpson, who made a fortune shipping logs and lumber, first to California, and later to as far as Australia and Africa.

Louis Simpson’s first mansion at Shore Acres was completed in 1908, but burned down in 1921. It was replaced by an even larger mansion in 1927. But Simpson’s fortunes took a turn for the worse when demand for timber all but disappeared during the Great Depression. He went bankrupt in 1940 and his creditors sold the estate to the State of Oregon.

Original Gardener’s Cottage at Shore Acres Gardens

In 1942 Oregon loaned the estate to the U.S. Army for use as a radar installation. The Simpson mansion was used as a barracks and officer’s club. The mansion suffered from the harsh climate and lack of maintenance and was torn down in 1949. The only original structure remaining at Shore Acres is what was once the gardener’s cottage.

The estate’s formal gardens fell into disarray, but were restored in the 1970s. Covering five acres, the gardens now draw thousands of visitors each year. In December the gardens are lit up each evening with a spectacular Christmas lighting display using thousands of lights.

From the gardens, a short trail leads to Simpson Beach, once the Simpson’s private beach, similar to but smaller and less used than the one at Sunset Bay.

The shoreline at Shore Acres consists of eroded sandstone cliffs and ledges. Storm watchers come from all over to view the huge waves crashing into the rocks during winter storms. Even in summer, the shoreline is fascinating and people clammer over the rocks to sightsee and birdwatch. In December and again in late spring Shore Acres is a prime spot for whale watching.

Cape Arago State Park

Like Shore Acres, what is now Cape Arago State Park was once part of Louis Simpson’s estate. He donated the land to the State of Oregon in 1932. Located at the end of the Cape Arago Highway, the park has a covered picnic shelter, picnic tables, and restrooms, although the restrooms are currently (as of the summer of 2025) closed. There are also trails to South Cove, where there is a sandy beach, and to North Cove with its rocky shoreline.

Other local attractions

The town of Charleston is located on Coos Bay about a mile east of Bastendorff Beach. It’s home to a large commercial fishing fleet and has a number of sport fishing charter operations. It’s also the gateway to South Slough, one of the best kayaking and canoeing spots on the Oregon coast. And it’s a good place to stop for a bite to eat or get a cold beer after your Cape Arago adventures. Try Miller’s at the Cove Sports Bar and Grill for surprisingly good food and a good selection of cold beers on tap.

The Cape Arago area is remote enough that it’s not really a day trip destination from any population center, so it’s best to make a weekend of it or stay longer. Fortunately, the Coos Bay-North Bend area is large enough to have many hotels, motels, BNBs, and restaurants. Take a day (or more) to explore Cape Arago, but leave some time to also explore the two cities. There’s a casino if you enjoy gambling. There’s also a good art gallery or two, interesting antique shops, nice parks and museums, and a trail along the bayfront. I’ll cover Coos Bay and North Bend in more detail in a future post.

About twenty-five miles east of Coos Bay, Golden and Silver Falls State Natural Area (not to be confused with Silver Falls State Park near Salem) boasts two large and scenic waterfalls, both more than 200 feet high, and three hiking trails that take you to the base of each falls and to the top of Golden Falls.

The town of Bandon, about 15 miles south of Coos Bay, is located at the mouth of the Coquille River. The Old Town section offers a variety of interesting shops, an art gallery well worth visiting (Second Street Gallery), several popular seafood spots (try Tony’s Crab Shack), and numerous restaurants, coffee shops, pubs, and a good bakery (Bandon Baking Company and Deli). A little east of Old Town on Hwy 101, Face Rock Creamery offers a wide variety of cheeses and has an extensive (and free) tasting area where you can sample most of them.

Across the bay from Old Town, the historic Coquille River Lighthouse in Bullards Beach State Park is open to the public and worth a visit.

South of Old Town you’ll find one of the most scenic shorelines anywhere on the Pacific Coast, with many offshore islands and sea stacks, and miles of sandy beach.

And Bandon Dunes Golf Resort, just north of the town of Bandon, offers five world class eighteen hole courses, a 13-hole par three course, a large driving range and practice facility, and lodging and restaurants. This is truly one of the greatest golf destinations in the world. And there are other golf courses in the area. Bandon Crossings, south of Bandon, is a scenic and challenging eighteen hole layout that is significantly less expensive than Bandon Dunes. And Sunset Bay Golf Course, located next to Sunset Bay State Park, is an interesting 12 hole, par 47 course.

Beyond Bandon, the southern Oregon coast, from Bandon to the California border, is spectacularly beautiful and ranks, along with the Olympic Peninsula in Washington, the northern California coast, and Big Sur, as one of the must see sections of the entire Pacific coast.

Conclusion

Cape Arago and the surrounding area has so much to offer visitors that almost everyone will find something there that will make them want to come back. My wife and I visit the area often. Almost every year we spend at least a weekend revisiting our favorite spots. And I’m sure we will continue to do so in the future.

Posted August 2, 2025

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Tualatin Hills Nature Park

by Alan K. Lee

Overview

The Tualatin Hills Nature Park, located on the west side of Beaverton, Oregon, is one of many natural areas and nature parks in the Portland metro area that provide a natural environment that is often a quiet, calming, and refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of urban life. Beaverton is one of Portland’s largest suburbs, and Tualatin Hills Nature Park is highly valued by local residents. It gets a lot of use (200,000+ visitors a year), but it’s large enough (222 acres) that it has never really felt crowded on any of my visits.

The Park

Most of the land that now makes up the Tualatin Hills Nature Park was purchased by the Tualatin Hills Park and Recreation District in 1981, when the city of Beaverton was rapidly growing and open spaces were quickly being converted to residential and commercial developments, but the park was not officially opened to the public until 1998. Smaller additions to the park were made in the early 2000s.

The park is mostly forested, but also has several ponds and marshes, and some open grassland along the creeks. There are five miles of hiking trails in the park (one and a half of which are paved and wheelchair accessible). Most trail junctions are signed, but a few are not, so carry a map. Maps are available in the Nature Center and at the Millican Way trailhead information board. A digital map is linked below.

The hike described below covers four miles of those trails. There are also a number of connector trails that make for a variety of shorter hikes or other routes of similar length to the one described here. Throughout the park, interpretive signs along the trails give the visitor information about the flora and fauna of the park.

If you’re arriving by car, the Nature Center at the Millikan Way trailhead is a good place to start. Staff there can answer any questions that you may have, you can pick up a map, and there are some interesting exhibits. If you’re accessing the trails from the light rail station or the 170^th Avenue trailheads, the Nature Center is just a few hundred feet from the junction of the Oak and Vine Maple trails.

Getting There

By car, the main access is from Millikan Way (15655 SW Millikan Way). There are also two trailheads on 170^th Avenue on the west side of the park (but no parking lots). And you may be able to park in a lot just east of the Max light rail station at Merlo Road and 158^th Ave (not sure it’s public parking, though). The Oak Trail begins just south of the train tracks near the station. The Max station is also served by Tri-Met bus line #67, and line #57 runs along Tualatin Valley Highway, just south of the park.

The Hike

Trailheads:

The only trailhead with any amenities is the Millikan Way trailhead. The large parking area has space for about 100 vehicles. There are restrooms there and drinking water is available. The Nature Center is just a few feet from the trailhead.

Distance: 4.0 miles

Elevation gain: Minimal

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

digital map

Description:

Starting at the Millikan Way trailhead, follow the paved Vine Maple Trail past the Nature Center on your left and the restroom building on your right for a few hundred feet to the junction with the Oak Trail. Turn right and follow the Oak Trail for about a third of a mile through the forest, then take a short side trip to the Tadpole Pools. Continue on the gravel trail until it rejoins the Oak Trail.

The Oak Trail crosses the edge of Cattail Marsh on a boardwalk, then crosses over Cedar Mill Creek on a wooden bridge where you’ll get a good view of the open marshland along the creek. Just beyond the bridge, you’ll come to the junction with the Old Wagon Trail at the 0.65-mile mark of the hike. Turn left onto the gravel Old Wagon Trail, which leads you through the forest with occasional views of Cedar Mill Creek.

At the 1.0-mile mark of the hike, you’ll come to the junction with the Mink Path. Stay on the Old Wagon Trail. (The Mink Path will take you back to the Vine Maple Trail if you want to shorten your hike). About 500 feet from the Mink Path junction, you’ll come to a long section of the Old Wagon Trail that is a slightly elevated boardwalk. Stay left at the next junction and continue on the boardwalk. Just past the end of the boardwalk, at the 1.4-mile mark, the Old Wagon Trail rejoins the Vine Maple Trail. Turn left and follow the Vine Maple Trail to a side trail to Lily Pond.

Back on the Vine Maple Trail, the now paved trail takes you through the forest, passing the junction with the Mink Path and across another bridge over Cedar Mill Creek with open views, to a junction with the Elliot Path at the 1.85-mile mark of the hike.

Take the Elliot Path for about 500 feet, then turn right onto the Big Fir Trail and follow it to Big Pond. There is a side trail to the pond, but the best views are from a bridge a little ways down the trail. Beyond Big Pond, the trail turns to the southwest and crosses Beaverton Creek on another wooden bridge. On the other side of the bridge is a four way junction. Turn left onto Ash Loop.

Follow Ash Loop for a third of a mile through the forest, where it returns to the Big Fir Trail. Go right on the Big Fir Trail, then left on Chickadee Loop, which will take you back to Cedar Mill Creek, then back to the Big Fir Trail on a boardwalk.

Chickadee Loop featuring one of the many benches along the park’s trails

Cross back over Beaverton Creek and retrace your route on Big Fir Trail for a quarter mile, passing Big Pond and the Elliot Path junction, to the junction with the Trillium Loop at the three-mile mark of the hike. Take the short Trillium Loop, then rejoin the Big Fir Trail for a tenth of a mile to the Ponderosa Loop junction. Turn right and follow the Ponderosa Loop through the forest for half a mile before rejoining Big Fir Trail, which then rejoins the Vine Maple Trail, which takes you back to the trailhead.

Conclusion

The Tualatin Hills Nature Park has become one of my favorite hiking spots in the west metro area. It’s well used, but if you go early in the day on a weekday you might find the park relatively empty. You’re almost guaranteed to see birds (Dark-eyed Juncos, Song Sparrows, and American Robins are common) and wildlife (squirrels, if nothing else) along the trails. Stop and sit for a while on one of the many benches you’ll find along the trails. Look and listen and soak up the peace and quiet. It’s well worth your time.

Other area attractions and activities

Just southeast of Tualatin Hills Nature Park, the 15-acre Beaverton Creek Wetlands is located where Johnston Creek flows into Beaverton Creek. The wetlands are home to Great Blue Herons, Belted Kingfishers, a variety of other waterfowl, and beavers and other small mammals. A paved trail along the southern shore of the wetlands can be accessed from 153^rd Avenue just north of TV Hwy, or by a short trail from the Millikan Way parking lot.

Cooper Mountain Nature Park, about four miles southwest of Tualatin Hills Nature Park, is another of the many natural areas and parks in the west metro area that offer miles of prime hiking trails.

And the Beaverton area is awash in places to get a bite to eat or a cold drink after your hike. Three Mugs Public House, just north of the park on Jenkins Avenue, has 14 beer taps, and also has kombucha, several ciders, and two wines on tap. They also have a full food menu. Prime Tap House, just southeast of the park, has typical pub food (heavy on wings) and a good selection of beers. And a couple of miles east of the park, in downtown Beaverton, you’ll find a number of good pubs, including Breakside Brewery, Lazy Days Brewing, Raindrop Taphouse, and Loyal Legion.

Posted July 7, 2025

All photos © Alan K. Lee except as noted

Cooper Mountain Nature Park

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction:

One of the benefits of living in the Pacific Northwest is its natural beauty and easy access to nature. Even the large urban centers have abundant parks, forests, and streams close by. Cooper Mountain Nature Park in Beaverton, Oregon is one of the many protected natural areas and nature parks the Portland metro area is blessed with that range in size from less than five acres to the 5200-acre Forest Park in Portland. Dozens of such natural areas dot the landscape, several of which are near my suburban neighborhood. I can leave my house on foot and be surrounded by nature in less than ten minutes.

The Park:

Cooper Mountain Nature Park is located on the southwestern edge of Beaverton. The park is jointly managed by Metro, the Portland area’s regional government, and the Tualatin Hills Park and Recreation District. Three and a half miles of trails take the visitor through three distinct habitats – oak woodland, open prairie, and conifer forest. The hike described here traverses most of the park’s 230 acres.

There is more to do at the park than just hiking, too. The park’s Nature House hosts a variety of classes and educational events, there are nature play areas for children, and there is a demonstration garden that features low-maintenance and wildlife-friendly plants.

One of the interesting features of the park are the three “listening trumpets” located along the trails. Created by Portland artist Christine Bourdette, the trumpets act as natural sound amplifiers that can catch birdsong and other sounds of nature from a distance. Try them out if you visit the park.

The Hike:

Where: Cooper Mountain Nature Park, 18892 SW Kemmer Rd, Beaverton, Oregon

Distance: 2.9 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: 375 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

Online Map

Overview:

The trails here are hiker only – horses, dogs and other animals (except service animals), and bicycles are prohibited. Drones are also prohibited. The trails are mostly compacted gravel and are useable year round. All trail junctions have directional signage with a small trail map. Interpretive signs are located at places of interest along the trails.

Trailhead:

There are restrooms in the Nature House at the parking lot and drinking water is available. There are about 40 parking spaces with an overflow area that will accommodate another fifteen vehicles. Parking is free. The parking lot fills up early on weekends and sometimes even on weekdays in the spring and summer, so best to come early. If the parking lot is full, you may be able to park along Kemmer Road.

The hike:

The hike starts at the southeast corner of the parking lot adjacent to the playground. Stay right at the first two trail junctions. At 0.3 miles, continue straight onto Cooper Mountain Loop that takes you into an area of coniferous forest.

In another tenth of a mile turn left onto the Overlook Trail that takes you back into a more open prairie habitat with good views of Chehalem Mountain to the south. You’ll also find one of the listening trumpets along the trail. At the 0.6 mile mark the Overland Trail rejoins the Cooper Mountain Loop. Turn left and follow Cooper Mountain Loop, which takes you downslope with prairie to your left and forest to your right.

At the low point of this hike (elevation 420 feet) the trail makes a 180⁰ bend and regains some of the elevation you’ve lost, then turns right and takes you to Quarry Pond, where you might find a few waterfowl and increasingly rare northern red-legged frogs. Just beyond the pond, you’ll come to the Larkspur Loop junction at the 1.2 mile mark. Take the out and back lollipop loop and return to the junction. Turn right onto Cooper Mountain Loop again. Here the trail begins to climb back toward the trailhead.

At the next junction, turn right onto Blacktail Way, which climbs, steeply in places, for half a mile to the next junction. Here there is a short trail to the right to a viewpoint. Back at the junction, turn right onto Little Prairie Loop and follow it through the forest and back to the trailhead.

Other area attractions and activities:

The Beaverton area features numerous other parks and natural areas. Another of my favorite hiking spots is Tualatin Hills Nature Park, which I will feature in an upcoming post. And slightly farther out (about ten miles west of Cooper Mountain), the newly opened Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is another of the areas nature parks and another outstanding hiking area.

And after your hike, the Beaverton area has many fine places to get lunch and slake your thirst. If you just crave a good beer after your hike, try the nearby Taplandia Taphouse, or the White Oak Taphouse.Neither Taplandia nor White Oak have much of a food menu, so if you’re hungry, try Murrayhill Taphouse or Cafe Murrayhill. Both have full food and drink menus, and are located across a parking lot from each other on the shore of Murrayhill Lake. And McMenamin’s Greenway Pub is also close to Cooper Mountain and offers both decent food and a good beer menu.

Conclusion:

Cooper Mountain has become one of my favorite hiking areas in the southwestern part of the Portland metro area. I’m sure you’ll enjoy it as much as I do.

Posted May 2, 2025. Updated with new photos June 16, 2025.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Salt Spring Island, British Columbia

by Alan K. Lee

British Columbia’s Gulf Islands are located between the southeastern coast of Vancouver Island and the the Canadian mainland. The largest, most populated, and most accessible of the Gulf Islands is Salt Spring Island. Ganges, on Salt Spring, is the commercial and cultural heart of the Southern Gulf Islands. It is the largest (and really the only) town in the Gulf Islands.

The Gulf Islands Guide has a description of each island and good information on events and accommodations in the Islands. Other useful websites include Gulf Islands Tourism, and Salt Spring Island.org.

Almost all visitors to Salt Spring Island arrive via one of the B.C. ferries that serve the island. Ferries travel from the Tsawwassen terminal south of Vancouver to Long Harbor, near Ganges, and from Schwartz Bay north of Victoria to Fulford Harbor on the southern end of Salt Spring. There is also a ferry from Crofton, on Vancouver Island, to Vesuvius on the northwest shore of Salt Spring. Check the B.C. Ferries website for schedules and rates. If you’re traveling from Tsawwassen, book a reservation well in advance during the summer. Ferries from Schwartz Bay and Crofton are first come, first served, but run frequently.

There are no commercial flights to Salt Spring Island. There are float plane companies that will take you to the islands, though. And the Victoria airport is only a few miles from the Schwartz Bay ferry terminal, so flying to Victoria and renting a car is a good option if driving is not feasible.

If you or one of your fellow travelers is an experienced boater or sailor, you can charter a sailboat or power boat and explore the islands by sea. Full-service marinas are located at Sidney on Vancouver Island, and in Ganges. Experience is essential and charter companies require proof of competence, and it is fairly expensive. But if you have the necessary qualifications and can afford it, this is an excellent way to explore the Islands. We have done this, and I can personally recommend it.

There are a wide variety of accommodations available on Salt Spring, from full-service resorts and hotels to traditional B&Bs to single rooms available through Airbnb. One place that I can personally recommend is Spindrift Oceanfront Cottages near the Long Harbor ferry terminal. Spindrift is located at the end of a peninsula in Ganges Harbor in a park-like setting. It has a variety of cottages and two sand beaches perfect for launching kayaks. If you’re a kayaker, this is a perfect jumping off point. Ganges Harbor and its numerous islands are well worth exploring. Prevost Island, a short paddle to the southeast of Ganges Harbor is also worth a visit. A portion of Prevost is set aside as part of the Gulf Islands National Park.

The Ganges area has several restaurants and cafes that I can recommend. For a good breakfast in a unique setting, try the Tree House Cafe in downtown Ganges. Another good place to start your day is Salt Spring Coffee-Ganges Cafe. Salt Spring Inn offers a fine dining experience, also in downtown Ganges. Salt Spring Wild Cider House, just west of Ganges, offers gourmet farm-to-table dinners at a reasonable price. Moby’s Pub, a local hangout, has an upscale pub food menu and a good selection of craft beers. And, if you want a true local experience, you will probably not see another tourist in the well-named The Local Pub, near the marina in Ganges.

Getting around the island is easiest if you have a car, but there is a bus system that will get you around if you don’t. And there is a unique Car Stop system, sort of an organized hitchhiking system. Look for the Car Stop signs and stick out your thumb. Someone will stop to give you a ride. Drivers can be selective about who they pick up, and of course hitchhikers can be equally selective about whose car they get into. But it’s generally safe, and it’s free. It also a unique way to get to know some of the locals.

There are many places worth exploring on Salt Spring, including four Provincial Parks. Mount Maxwell Provincial Park on the west side of the island provides spectacular views of Mount Bruce to the south and west across Saanich Inlet to Vancouver Island. You can drive to the summit, but when we were last there (summer 2024) the last mile or so of the road required a high-clearance vehicle with four wheel drive. There are also hiking and mountain bike trails for the more adventurous.

Ruckle Provincial Park on the southeast coast of the island has hiking trails that take you along the shore of Swanson Channel, as well as a campground with eight RV sites (no hookups) and 78 walk in tent sites. There are also good hiking trails at Mt. Erskine Provincial Park, just west of Ganges. And Burgoyne Bay Provincial Park is located at the base of Mount Maxwell on Saanich Inlet.

Other places on the island worth visiting include St. Mary’s Lake and the small community of Vesuvius. There are also a number of beaches that have public access on the north end of the island.

Salt Spring has an active arts community, with numerous galleries and studios in Ganges and scattered across the island. Many of the studios are open to visitors in the summer. A Farmer’s Market is held in Ganges every Saturday during the summer, where you can sample artisanal cheeses and locally grown produce. Arts, crafts, and home and garden products are also available.

If you are a cheese lover, you’ll want to visit Salt Spring Island Cheese. Their farm is located on Reynolds Road, just off of the road leading to Ruckle Park. There you can not only sample and purchase their artisanal cheeses, but also see the whole cheese making operation. You can also find their cheeses at the Farmer’s Market in Ganges and in many grocery stores in B.C. and as far away as Toronto. If you are a wine lover, stop at Salt Spring Vineyards and Tasting Room, and Garry Oaks Estate Winery, both located south of Ganges on Fulford-Ganges Road.

Southey Point with the Secretary Islands in the distance

Salt Spring Island is just a short jaunt from Victoria and can be visited as a day-trip if you’re exploring Victoria, but you can also spend a week on the island without running out of things to see and do. And you can use Salt Spring as a base to explore the other Gulf Islands. My wife and I have visited Salt Spring Island many times over the years, and on each visit we have discovered new places to see and new things to do. I’m sure our most recent visit will not be our last.

Posted January 31, 2025

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Florence, Oregon

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

Florence, Oregon (not to be confused with Florence, Italy) is a small town on Oregon’s central coast. The town lies on the estuary of the Siuslaw River, a few miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. Historically, Florence’s economy centered around commercial fishing and the timber industry, but today sport fishing and general tourism are more important. Florence has a vibrant old town area, many festivals and parks, and access to miles of ocean beach. The surrounding area also has many tourist draws, most prominently the 31,500-acre Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area that runs for forty miles along the coast from the Siuslaw River to Coos Bay.

The Town

I have to confess that for years Florence was, to me, just a not terribly attractive town that you passed through to get to the lakes, streams, beaches, headlands, and dunes that were the real attractions of the area. It wasn’t until a few years ago that I discovered the charms of the old town waterfront area, the many quality eating establishments to be found in the town, and the parks and other attractions of the town. While the surrounding areas are still the main draw, Florence makes an attractive base to explore the area and has plenty of attractions of its own.

The old town area of Florence lies along the shore of the Siuslaw River. Although not large, the area has many restaurants and cafes and numerous small hotels and guest houses. There is a marina and an RV park, trails along the river, and a number of public art works. On my last visit, the main old town street was closed to vehicle traffic one evening to facilitate a giant block party that drew a huge crowd, with live music and many food vendors that made for a very festive evening.

Art lovers will want to check out the Blue Heron Gallery and Backstreet Gallery, both in the old town area. For history buffs, the Siuslaw Pioneer Museum offers “a taste of life as it was 150 years ago.”

Quality dining in the old town can be found at Waterfront Depot, Nosh Eatery, Maple Street Bistro, 1285 Restobar, and the Firehouse. Outside of old town, Venny’s Café on Hwy 101 gets good reviews and Fresh Harvest Café, farther north on 101, is a good place to get breakfast or lunch. Brew pubs worth checking out include Beachcomber Pub and Homegrown Public House, both in the old town.

You might want to try the sport of sandboarding, especially if you are a family with active kids. Think snowboarding but on the dunes not the mountain slopes. Sand Master Park, just north of Fred Meyer in the north end of town, bills itself as the world’s first sandboarding park. You can get lessons, rent sandboards, and try out the sport onsite on 200 acres of dunes.

If you enjoy gambling, Three Rivers Casino Resort, just off Hwy 126 about a mile east of Hwy 101, offers plenty of opportunities to strike it rich (or not), plus several dining options and frequent live entertainments events. The casino is owned and operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Coos, Lower Umpqua, and Siuslaw Indians. The Tribes also own and operate Ocean Dunes Golf Links, one of two 18-hole courses in Florence, the other being Florence Golf Links (formerly known as Sand Pines).

One of the oddities of Florence, Oregon involves an exploding whale. In 1970 a 45-foot sperm whale carcass washed ashore at Florence. The Oregon Highway Division used twenty cases (literally a ton) of dynamite in an attempt to break the carcass into small pieces. The resulting explosion sent pieces of the whale flying as much as 800 feet from the beach. No one was injured but several vehicles were damaged by falling blubber. The KATU-TV news story and video of the event has become something of a cult-classic and continues to be frequently viewed more than half a century later. An exhibit at the Siuslaw Pioneer Museum has bone fragments from the whale and a city park along the riverfront west of Hwy 101 was recently renamed Exploding Whale Park.

The Oregon Dunes

The Oregon Dunes consist of the largest coastal dune field in North America, coastal spruce and pine forest that includes many “tree islands” surrounded by dunes, miles of ocean beaches, and numerous freshwater lakes and wetlands. Outside the boundary of the national recreation area (NRA) there are several state parks and a number of Siuslaw National Forest campgrounds.

Honeyman State Park, about three miles south of Florence, has a large (364 site) campground, dunes access for both hikers and OHVs (Oct-Apr), picnic areas, a children’s playground, restrooms and showers, and two freshwater lakes.

The miles of dunes are a very popular off-highway vehicle (OHV) recreational area. You can rent dune buggies if you don’t have your own, and tours on larger OHVs are also available. About one third of the NRA is open to off-highway vehicles. There are also ample areas within and adjacent to the NRA that are off limits to OHVs that provide a quieter experience for hikers, paddlers, birders, photographers, beachcombers, and other nature lovers.

Fishing and Boating

Fishing for rainbow and cutthroat trout and warm water species like bass and perch are popular activities on the freshwater lakes near Florence. Woahink, Siltcoos, and Tahkenitch Lakes south of Florence are all prime fishing grounds. All have public boat ramps that also give canoers, kayakers and paddleboarders access to the lakes. Cleawox Lake in Honeyman State Park also is a popular paddling spot. The Siuslaw River has both salmon and steelhead runs, and ocean fishing trips can be booked through charter services in Winchester Bay (aka Salmon Harbor) about twenty-five miles south of Florence. A list of local fishing guides can be found on the Port of Siuslaw website.

Area Beaches

The south jetty area has five beach access points and four miles of beach where OHVs are not permitted. Go south on Hwy 101 and turn right onto Sand Dunes Road about a half mile south of the Siuslaw River Bridge. At the north end of town, the north jetty area and Heceta Beach County Park give access to another five miles of ocean beach. There are also many beach access points both north and south of Florence.

Heceta Head

Heceta Head Lighthouse, about ten miles north of Florence, is one of the Oregon coast’s most iconic and most photographed locations. The lighthouse, built in 1893, is 56 feet tall and sits 200 feet above the ocean, making it one of the best whale-watching points on the coast. And the original assistant lightkeeper’s house is now a bed and breakfast inn with six rooms and features a seven-course breakfast menu.

Sea Lion Caves

Located on Sea Lion Point about a mile south of Heceta Head , Sea Lion Caves is a privately owned attraction featuring the largest sea cave in the Americas. The cave (and the surrounding rocky shoreline) is the only mainland rookery of Steller Sea Lions. From the observation deck at the gift shop there is a great view of Heceta Head Lighthouse. From there, a short trail brings you to an elevator that descends over 200 feet to the cave. In winter and spring, you’ll likely see hundreds of sea lions in the huge cave, but in the summer and fall there may not be any sea lions in the cave. They’ll mostly be found on the rocks outside the cave in those months. But the cave itself (about 300 feet across and 125 feet high) is worth the cost of admission.

Cobra lilies, Darlingtonia State Natural Site

Darlingtonia Wayside

A few miles north of Florence at Darlingtonia Wayside (now officially Darlingtonia State Natural Site) you’ll find one of the few places in the Pacific Northwest where cobra lilies (Darlingtonia californica) can be found. These carnivorous plants trap and consume insects that provide the plant with nitrogen and nutrients that they can’t get from the boggy soil. There are restrooms at the parking area and a short boardwalk trail that takes you into the cobra lily’s domain.

Conclusion

Florence, Oregon is a great stopping point on a tour of the 363 miles of Oregon coastline. There’s so much to see and do in the surrounding area and in the town itself that you could easily spend a week in Florence and not run out of things to do and sights to see. I’m looking forward to my next visit, maybe an off-season trip this winter.

And if you’re heading farther down the coast, make sure to stop in Bandon-by-the-sea. Farther south, the southern Oregon coast has spectacular scenery and is as uncrowded and unspoiled as it gets on the Pacific coast.

Posted Dec 2, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

North Vancouver, BC

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

The city of Vancouver, BC is loaded with wonderful places for the traveler to explore – Stanley Park, Gastown, Chinatown, Granville Island, Yaletown, and many more. And there are great places to visit outside of the city itself. North Vancouver, across Burrard Inlet from Stanley Park and downtown Vancouver, has a couple of gems of its own in Capilano Bridge Park and Grouse Mountain, and another park almost unknown to outsiders with its own suspension bridge, Lynn Canyon Bridge.

Capilano Bridge Park

When I was growing up, one of my father’s cousins and her husband lived in North Vancouver. We visited them several times and I had heard about the spectacular Capilano Bridge from a young age, but for some reason we never visited the park. And in all the intervening years, I had never made it to Capilano. That changed this past summer when my wife and I spent a week in Vancouver.

The suspension bridge is magnificent, 450 feet long and 230 feet above the Capilano River. The first Capilano Bridge was built in 1889 using rope and cedar planks. Steel cables have replaced the hemp rope, and the modern bridge can support the weight of a 747 jetliner (according to the park’s website). It’s safe, but it moves – a lot if there are a lot of people crossing – and I was surprised by how unsettled it made me feel. But it’s an unforgettable experience, nevertheless.

The park has other attractions, as well. The Treetops Adventure takes you high into the forest canopy from tree to tree on seven suspension bridges, and part of the Cliffwalk is cantilevered out over the canyon, with nothing between you and the ground hundreds of feet below except the wooden boards you’re standing on. And there’s more. See the park’s website for more information.

Current ticket prices for Capilano Bridge Park range from C$24.95 for children 6-12 to C$71.95 for adults 18-64 (US$18.48-53.30). Tickets and pricing for 2025 are not yet available.

Capilano Bridge is a popular tourist attraction for good reason but suffers from its popularity. Even on a weekday morning when we were there in June, it was crowded. And it’s not cheap. And it’s a bit touristy. I can understand why some people consider it an overpriced tourist trap. But the bridge is magnificent, and I don’t regret spending what it cost for our tickets. That said, though, we probably won’t go back.

Lynn Canyon Bridge

If Capilano is too crowded, too touristy, or too expensive for your tastes, North Vancouver has another suspension bridge, Lynn Canyon Bridge, about five miles east of Capilano. The bridge itself is shorter and not as high as Capilano, but it’s much less crowded, entry is free (except for a modest parking fee), there’s a nice waterfall just upstream that is visible from the bridge, and there is an extensive trail system to explore.

And, if that’s not enough, there is yet another suspension bridge another mile or so east of Lynn Canyon, the Seymour River Suspension Bridge.

Grouse Mountain

Grouse Mountain is only seven miles from downtown Vancouver (and only 2.2 miles from Capilano Bridge Park). I don’t think there is another major city in North America with a ski area that close. Grouse Mountain is a favorite winter destination for skiers and snowboarders, but it’s also a great summer destination for travelers and adventurers.

From the base of the mountain, a gondola (called the Skyride) takes you 780 vertical meters (2560 feet) up the mountain to the upper terminal. From there a chair lift takes you up another 150 meters (492 feet) to the 1230-meter (4035-foot’) summit. You can also access the upper terminal by trail if you’re fit enough. The famous Grouse Grind is a 2.9 km (1.8 mi) trail that climbs 853 meters (almost 2800 feet) at an average grade of 31%. Even in my younger days I probably wouldn’t have taken that route up, but many people do.

In addition to jaw dropping views of Burrard Inlet, Stanley Park, and the city of Vancouver and its suburbs, there are two restaurants in the upper terminal (Altitudes Bistro and the more upscale Observatory Restaurant) and a brew pub and restaurant (Beavertails) a short walk from the upper terminal. There is also a theater in the upper terminal. And there are rope courses and zip lines for the adventurous.

Near the summit of the mountain, there is a unique wind turbine (The Eye of the Wind) designed to provide clean energy to help power the gondola, ski lift, and the other facilities. What sets it apart from all other wind turbines, besides its mountaintop location, is a viewing room more than a hundred feet above the ground that is accessed by an elevator within the turbine tower. It was closed when we were there, though.

Adult (19-64) roundtrip Skyride tickets run C$80 (about US$60). Senior (65+) tickets are C$70, youth (13-18) C$60, children (5-12) C$40, and infants (under 5) ride free. In the summer there is also an option (called the Skyride Surf Adventure) that allows you to ride up the mountain on top of the gondola for an additional C$35.

Grouse Mountain has a lot to offer, and my wife and I had a blast exploring the top of the mountain last summer (2024).

Conclusion

Vancouver is a great destination for the traveler. See my posts on Stanley Park and Granville Island and False Creek for a taste of what the city offers. And just a short distance from downtown Vancouver, North Vancouver has its own charms.

Posted November 5, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Granville Island and False Creek, Vancouver, BC

By Alan K. Lee

Introduction

Travel guides for Vancouver, B.C. all highlight Granville Island as one of the prime tourist destinations in the city, and rightly so. It has a wealth of shops, art galleries, restaurants and pubs, theaters, and open spaces in a compact, pedestrian friendly setting. Granville Island is located in the False Creek area immediately south of downtown Vancouver. False Creek, as its name implies, is not a creek. It’s a saltwater inlet off of English Bay that separates downtown Vancouver from the rest of the city. And False Creek has much more to offer the traveler than just Granville Island.

Water taxis

You can drive to Granville Island, but it’s probably not the best way to get there, especially if you’re staying in the south end of downtown, as my wife and I were on our recent visit. You can also walk across the Granville Bridge to get there, but that’s also not the best way. The best way is by water taxi.

Two companies, Aquabus and False Creek Ferries, operate water taxis on False Creek. Both have numerous ferries that run frequently and dock at multiple locations along False Creek. Not only are they convenient, they’re also simply fun. Buy an all-day pass and spend the day exploring the area. You won’t run out of things to do. Just riding the ferries is entertaining in and of itself. Day pass tickets for both companies cost $20 for adults and $18 for seniors and children. (All prices quoted in this post are in Canadian dollars). Aquabus has more ferries, but False Creek Ferries also serves the Vancouver Maritime Museum and the Kitsilano area that Aquabus does not.

Granville Island

If you only have a short time to spend in Vancouver, Granville Island should be near the top of your list of places to visit. And if you have more time, you could easily spend a full day exploring the island and not run out of things to do.

Granville Island is a small area (only a half mile long by a quarter mile wide), but jam packed with literally dozens of restaurants and pubs, more than 100 studios, art galleries and boutiques, many theaters and performance venues, a public market (called Public Market) that rivals Seattle’s Pike Place Market, public docks for both small boats and canoes and kayaks, a community center, a water park, a large playground, a public park, a hotel, and the list goes on.

My wife and I often like to just show up and see what we find when visiting a new location (which we essentially did here), but Granville Island can be a little overwhelming for the first-time visitor. The Granville Island website offers a “plan your visit” interactive function, though, that you can use to make a custom plan based on your interests and how long you can stay (from a few hours to all-day plus). I highly recommend it, especially if you only have a short time to dedicate to Granville Island.

The Village

The Village, located on the southeast shore of False Creek, was the site of the athlete’s village at the 2010 Winter Olympics and Paralympics. After the Olympics, the area was converted into residential housing, commercial spaces, and parks and plazas. The Olympic Village Square features two huge sculptures of sparrows that are eighteen feet tall. My wife and I had lunch in the Village twice (once at Tap and Barrel and once at Craft Beer Market). It’s a nice area to just hang out and relax.

Science World

Science World is the large geodesic dome at the east end of False Creek that is visible from all over the area. It was originally constructed to be the Expo Centre for the 1986 World’s Fair (Expo ‘86). Today it is a science center and museum run by the non-profit ASTC Science World Society.

Science World houses numerous permanent displays and interactive science exhibits, rotating temporary exhibits, and an OMNIMAX theater. The Science World Society also runs outreach programs, sponsors lectures and classes, and conducts youth camps. Ticket prices (2024) range from $34.85 for adults to $23.65 for children (3-12). Youth (13-18) and senior (65+) admission is $28.10. The OMNIMAX theater is temporarily closed (as of September 2024).

Yaletown

Yaletown, just north of the False Creek waterfront, was once a warehouse district. Today, many of the old warehouses have been converted into restaurants, pubs, cocktail lounges, and shops and boutiques featuring cutting edge décor and fashions. Yaletown’s a vibrant, young, hip district that has an energy and vibe that is unique to the area.

Plaza of Nations

The Plaza of Nations, to the east of Yaletown, was the site of Expo ‘86’s British Columbia Pavilion. The structures and glass-roofed plaza, originally meant to be temporary structures, became an entertainment center after the conclusion of the world’s fair, with a 4500-seat concert venue. But the structures were deemed unsafe in 2007 and were demolished in 2008. Today, the area consists of an open plaza and a developing mixed-use commercial, residential, and entertainment district.

The Plaza of Nations is located just west of BC Place, a large stadium with a retractable roof that was the main stadium of the 2010 Winter Olympics and Winter Paralympics. Today, it is home to the Vancouver Whitecaps of the North American Soccer League and the BC Lions of the Canadian Football League.

Public Art

Throughout the False Creek area, in the parks and plazas, along the walkways, and all over Granville Island, you will find outstanding examples of public art, from Native American (First Nations) art to modern contemporary art. And the galleries and studios of Granville Island are an art lovers delight.

Indigenous Wood Carving, Granville Island

Parks

Numerous parks line the shores of False Creek. At the east end you’ll find Creekside Park adjacent to Science World and Concord Community Park just to the north. Along the south shore, Hinge Park has open spaces and a small wetlands area, and Charleson Park has a children’s playground and a dog park. Ron Basford Park on Granville Island has an amphitheater and a nice view of the city from a grassy hilltop.

Along the north shore, George Wainborn Park, David Lam Park and Coopers’ Park offer open spaces, fountains, sports courts, a skate park, and nice views of the False Creek waterfront.

And to the west of the main False Creek area, Sunset Beach Park at the mouth of False Creek and English Bay Beach Park to the north offer an uninterrupted, mile-long stretch of sand that is a popular picnicking area and a great spot to view the sunset.

Conclusion

Granville Island was on my radar long before we made this trip, but the rest of the False Creek area was not. In the end, my wife and I wound up spending more time exploring False Creek than we did any of the Vancouver area’s other destinations, and that’s worth noting because there are many other parts of the area that offer visitors a unique and enjoyable experience. Check out my Stanley Park post and look for upcoming posts on Capilano Bridge Park and Grouse Mountain in North Vancouver and the Gastown/Chinatown district in the north end of downtown Vancouver.

Posted September 15, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Johnston Canyon Hike, Banff National Park, Canada

by Alan K. Lee

Johnston Canyon Trail

Where: Banff National Park, Canada

Type: Out and back

Distance: 3.4 miles (5.5 km) round trip to Upper Falls, 7.5 miles (12 km) round trip to the Ink Pots

Elevation gain: Approx. 330 feet (100 meters) to Upper Falls, 1970 feet (600 meters) to the Ink Pots

Difficulty: Easy to Upper Falls, Moderate (for distance and elevation gain) to the Ink Pots

Map: All Trails

Overview:

The Johnston Canyon Trail is one of the best hikes you’ll find anywhere in the Canadian Rockies. Johnston Creek cascades through a narrow gorge with many small waterfalls and two larger ones. Parts of the canyon are so narrow that the creek fills the canyon floor from wall to wall. Here you’re hiking directly above the creek on a catwalk bolted to the side of the gorge. Sure, it’s very, very popular and can be incredibly crowded, but it’s an incredible hike, not to be missed. Just go early in the morning or in the evening.

Getting there:

From the town of Banff, take the Trans Canada Hwy west for 3.4 miles (5.5 km) to the exit for the Bow Valley Parkway. Proceed on the parkway for another 11.0 miles (17.7 km) to the trailhead parking lot on the right. (Note that for the past three years the east end of the parkway from Hwy 1 to Johnston Canyon has been closed to vehicles – but open to bicycles – from May 1 to June 25 and for the month of September. During those periods vehicles must travel from Banff to Castle Junction on Hwy 1, then backtrack east on the parkway to Johnston Canyon. This has been a pilot program and these closures may or may not continue beyond 2024.

You can also get to Johnston Canyon directly from Banff via the Roam Route 9 bus. Check the website for schedules. There is also a hop-on-hop-off bus from Banff that stops at Moraine Lake and Lake Louise in addition to Johnston Canyon.

Trailhead:

The main trailhead parking area has approximately 120 spaces, but it fills up early. There is now a second parking area on the opposite side of the parkway, but that likely also fills up early and you may see cars parked along the parkway on both sides. There are restrooms with flush toilets at the trailhead and water is available. There is also a small café at the trailhead. There is no fee to park or hike. Dogs are allowed on leash. Strollers are not recommended on the trail, but the trail is easy enough for kids of all ages.

The hike:

The trail is an easy hike, with relatively little elevation gain. In 0.7 mile (1.2 km) you come to the100-foot (30-meter) Lower Falls. Here you can walk through a short tunnel that emerges just feet from the falling water. Just be prepared to get wet.

The trail continues for another 0.9 mile (1.4 km) to the bottom of Upper Falls. There the trail branches, with a side trail going to a viewpoint near the base of the falls and the main trail climbing 130 feet (40 meters) to the top of the falls. We turned around at that point, but the trail continues another 2.5 miles (4.0 km) beyond Upper Falls to the Ink Pots, a group of beautiful spring fed ponds in a mountain meadow.

Check the Banff Travel website for a much more detailed description of the hike.

Other area attractions and activities:

There are too many other attractions in Banff National Park and the surrounding area to list them all, but here are links to some of the best –

The town of Banff

The town of Canmore

Kootenay National Park

Posted July 31, 2024

All photos ©Alan K. Lee

Stanley Park, Vancouver, Canada

by Alan K. Lee

Stanley Park in Vancouver, British Columbia is a popular and much loved 1001-acre (405 hectare) urban oasis that occupies the northwestern end of the peninsula that is also home to downtown Vancouver.

My wife and I recently spent five days in Vancouver. We spent the majority of one of those days exploring Stanley Park. The park is bisected by a busy highway, but you would never know it. I never noticed any traffic noise and it’s easy to find quiet and serene places in the park. And there’s enough to do there and the park is large enough that you could easily spend several days in the park and still not see and do everything the park has to offer.

The park features rhododendron and rose gardens and a Japanese Garden War Memorial. Stanley Park is also home to the Vancouver Aquarium (Canada’s largest aquarium), a collection of totem poles, a lighthouse, a ridable miniature railway, a seaside saltwater swimming pool, playgrounds, a water spray park, tennis courts, sports fields, and an 18-hole pitch and putt golf course.

There are three restaurants in the park, Prospect Point Café at the northern end of the park near the Lion’s Gate Bridge, Stanley Park Brewpub in the southwest corner of the park, and Stanley’s Bar and Grill in Stanley Park Pavilion, a wedding and event venue that is the oldest building in the park. There are also several cafes in the Vancouver Aquarium.

Much of Stanley Park is forested, and part of the park’s appeal is the proximity of the forested natural area to the densely populated and heavily developed downtown area. The interior of the park contains 17 miles of hiking trails, and the immensely popular seawall path runs for 5½ miles along the shoreline. The park is similar in many ways to Point Defiance Park in Tacoma, Washington, one of my favorite Pacific Northwest destinations.

Stanley Park contains two freshwater lakes (10-acre Beaver Lake and 41-acre Lost Lagoon), a stream (Beaver Creek) that is a spawning ground for a run of salmon, and has several sandy beaches. It is also home to one of the largest Great Blue Heron rookeries in North America.

S.S. Empress of Japan Figurehead Replica

Stanley Park functions as the backyard for the urban residents of Vancouver’s many condo towers and can arguably be described as Vancouver’s heart and soul. Every visitor should spend at least some time in the park. You can’t fully understand the city without experiencing Stanley Park.

Besides our visit to Stanley Park, my wife and I visited Capilano Bridge Park, Lynn Canyon Park, and Grouse Mountain in North Vancouver, Gastown, Dr. Sun Yat Sen Chinese Garden, Granville Island and the False Creek area, and other parts of Vancouver. More posts on our visit to Vancouver will follow, so stay tuned.

Posted July 19, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Faro, Portugal and the Algarve Coast

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

The Algarve consists of the southern coastline of Portugal, from Cabo Sagres in the west to the Spanish border in the east. The international airport in Faro, the largest city in the Algarve, makes the area easily accessible from anywhere in Europe, and the sunny climate and gorgeous coastline combined with the relatively low cost of accommodations and meals make it a wildly popular destination for tourists from colder and wetter, and more expensive, regions of Europe like the U.K.

My wife and I had the pleasure of spending a couple of days in Faro on our trip to Portugal and Spain this past April (2024). We also booked a day tour to the spectacularly beautiful coastal area near Carvoeiro, roughly 40 miles west of Faro. Our time in Faro and the Algarve gave us only a taste of what the area is all about, but its appeal was obvious, even at first glance.

Faro

Faro is situated on the banks of the Rio Formosa Lagoon, which is protected from the open Atlantic by a series of barrier islands. The lagoon was named a National Nature Park in 1987 and recognized as one of the seven natural wonders of the country in 2010. The park encompasses 65 square miles (170 square kilometers) of salt marsh and islands. It is an important stopping place for migratory birds, and the barrier island beaches are popular recreational areas for locals and tourists.

The Faro area has a long history and has been occupied since prehistoric times. The first recorded settlement dates to the 4th century BC when the Phoenicians established a town on the Rio Formosa Lagoon. The area has been controlled by the Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Visigoths, and the Moors, who ruled the area for more than 500 years before Christian forces captured the area in 1249 during the Reconquista.

Faro has a charming old town with an interesting history, a small boat harbor, narrow cobblestone and tiled streets and alleys, restaurants and cafes seemingly on every corner, and beautiful churches and other buildings that predate anything to be found in our hometown, sometimes by many centuries.

We spent most of our time in Faro exploring the old town, sampling the local cuisine, enjoying the sunshine, and taking tons of photos. We did not visit any of the barrier island beaches, but the host of our B&B went out of her way to tell us about them and give us information about the ferry and tour boat operations that will take you there, an indication of how much the locals value the beaches. While Faro may not be a prime tourist destination, other than as a gateway to the Algarve, and gets short shrift in most guidebooks (Rick Steves’ Portugal makes no mention of Faro at all, for example), we found it to be a charming and worthwhile stop on our trip. For more information about Faro, click here.

The Algarve Coast

The first stop on our day tour of the Algarve was Algar Seco, just east of the small town of Carvoeiro. A wooden boardwalk runs along the top of the cliffs there, with amazing 180⁰ views east and west along the coast.

Stairs lead down from the boardwalk and into the limestone rock formations. The limestone cliffs rise directly from the ocean, with natural pools and blowholes along the water’s edge. Sea caves dot the area, and there are numerous dry caves higher up in the cliffs. Fossils of clams and other marine creatures can be found throughout the limestone layers.

Paths and tunnels that have been cut through the soft rock give easy access to the whole area. We had a great time exploring the cliffs and caves and just taking in the incredible views of the cliffs and ocean. Algar Seco is just an incredibly scenic place, well worth the hour-long van ride from Faro.

Our second stop was the Benagil area, a few miles east of Algar Seco. Photos of Benagil Cave were what drew my wife and I to the Algarve in the first place. We had dreams of kayaking or motoring into the cave that has a nice sandy beach, several openings to the sea, and a collapsed section of the roof giving views of the sky above. But so did hordes of tourists before us. So many, in fact, that overcrowding has led to regulations prohibiting all watercraft from entering the cave, making a boat tour less appealing.

And from above, you can barely see into the cave through the collapsed roof, unless you climb over the wooden barrier or go around it and climb along the edge of the opening, which many people (my wife and I included) do even though it is not safe.

The coastline there is plenty scenic, but we could have skipped Benagil, in my opinion. (But kayaking the coastline, even if you can’t access Benagil Cave, would be awesome).

Our final stop came at Marinha Beach, about a mile east of Benagil Cave. A trail leads from the parking area down to the beach, and there is a network of trails leading along the top of the cliffs to the west of the beach. Offshore sea stacks and several natural arches make this one of the most scenic shorelines you’ll find anywhere in the world.

We had a couple of hours at Marinha to enjoy the beach and explore the cliffs on our own before we had to meet back up with the tour group and head back to Faro. I think we could have easily spent the whole day there. Algar Seco is fantastic and should be on your itinerary if you visit the Algarve, but in my opinion, Marinha Beach and the cliffs of the Arcos Naturais (Natural Arches) are even better, without a doubt one of the highlights of our visit to Portugal.

Conclusion

Faro is an interesting city and a worthwhile stop, but if you have more time to explore the Algarve than we had, I suggest that you follow Rick Steves’ lead and spend a few days in Lagos or Salema in the far west of the Algarve. After all, we thought the area around Carvoeiro that we toured was fantastic, but Steves labels that part of the coast “the worst” of the Algarve. Yes, it’s touristy, crowded, and the lack of access to Benagil Cave makes it overrated. But, if the west end is better than Algar Seco and Marinha Beach, it has to be well worth visiting. We may never make it back to Portugal (so many places to see, so little time), but we will definitely explore the Algarve more thoroughly if we ever return.

Faro and the Algarve coastline are great destinations, and Lisbon and the surrounding area are definitely bucket list destinations for anyone that can travel to Europe. For more on our trip to Portugal, see to my posts on Lisbon and Sintra.

Posted July 11, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Zion Canyon

The southwestern United States is a wonderland of deserts, mountains, and canyons. Zion Canyon is among the most spectacular of the Southwest’s many canyons, maybe second only to the Grand Canyon. And while the vast majority of visitors to the Grand Canyon never venture below the canyon rim, Zion is much more accessible.

At Zion, you’re in the canyon, surrounded by the red and white Navajo sandstone walls of the canyon that tower as much as 2600 feet above you. Being immersed within Zion Canyon is a much more intimate experience than just looking down into the Grand Canyon. Everyone should visit the Grand Canyon at least once, but if I had to choose between visiting the Grand Canyon or Zion Canyon, I’d take Zion.

Getting There

By car, Zion Canyon is 165 miles from Las Vegas and 305 miles from Salt Lake City. If you’re flying, Delta flies to the nearby Cedar City and St. George regional airports from their Salt Lake City hub. United flies to St. George through it’s Denver hub, and American also flies to St. George through its Phoenix hub. There does not appear to be any commercial service from Las Vegas to either Cedar City or St. George. Check the airline websites or your travel agent for details.

Springdale

The small town of Springdale, Utah is the gateway to Zion Canyon. There are a variety of lodging and dining choices in Springdale, along with services such as gas stations and grocery stores, making it a good base for your exploration of the canyon. Springdale is a pretty town with a number of attractions itself, so budget some time to explore the town. If you’re an art lover like my wife and I, DeZion Gallery, Sorrelia Gallery, Worthington Gallery, David J. West Gallery, and Tribal Arts Zion are all worth a visit. One of David West’s photographs hangs on my living room wall.

Getting Around

Private vehicles are not allowed in Zion Canyon beyond Canyon Junction (unless you are staying at Zion Lodge). The National Park Service operates two free shuttle bus routes. The Springdale Shuttle makes nine stops in Springdale and at the park’s pedestrian and bicycle entrance near the Zion Canyon Visitor Center. The Zion Canyon Shuttle runs from the visitor center to the Temple of Sinawava, with numerous stops along the way. The shuttles are wheelchair accessible, strollers can be taken on board, and they have bicycle racks (electric bikes do not fit on the racks, though). Check the park’s website for current information and shuttle schedules.

Bicycling is permitted on all park roadways and on the Pa’rus Trail. All other park trails, off-trail routes, and the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel are closed to bikes. There are a number of places in Springdale where you can rent bikes and there are also numerous companies offering bicycle tours of Zion. Biking the canyon is a good alternative to riding the shuttle. From the Zion Canyon Visitor Center to the Temple of Sinawava at the end of the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is about eight miles, with a few moderate hills along the way.

If you drive an electric vehicle, two charging stations are located within Zion National Park, one at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center and the other at the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center in the north end of the park. You can purchase a $5 pass code at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center that is valid for three days at either of the park’s charging stations. In Springdale, there are three Tesla charging stations (as well as others in nearby communities). Electrify America stations are located in St. George and Cedar City. ChargePoint and SemaConnect stations can be found in St. George.

Where to Stay

Dozens of hotels, motels, B&Bs, and vacation rentals can be found in Springdale and the neighboring community of Rockville. Check the Zion Canyon Visitors Bureau website or Utah.com for lodging information. Cedar City and St. George offer even more choices. Rates run from under $100 per night to over $500. One option worth considering is Zion National Park Lodge , located within Zion Canyon (not to be confused with Zion Canyon Lodge, which is in Springdale, not in the canyon itself). Summer rates for 2024 start at $257 (plus tax) per night at Zion Lodge. Plan ahead, though. Reservations often need to be made several months in advance.

If you’re camping, Zion Canyon Campground in Springdale has 133 RV sites and 47 tent sites. Zion River Resort in nearby Virgin, Utah also has RV sites and cabins. There are two campgrounds within the national park near Springdale, South Campground and Watchman Campground. South Campground has 117 sites, but no hookups. Watchman has about 120 RV sites with full hookups and about 70 tent sites. South and Watchman both require advance reservations, except in winter. The small Lava Point Campground in the north end of the park is first come, first served, but has only six primitive sites. Check the park website for more detailed information. Reservations for the South and Watchman campgrounds can be made through Recreation.gov.

Where to Eat

Probably no one comes to Zion for the food, but Springdale offers a number of dining options. Oscar’s Cafe, Spotted Dog Cafe, Kings Landing Bistro, and Bit and Spur Restaurant and Saloon all get good reviews. Zion National Park Lodge in the canyon has two restaurants, as well. The Red Rock Grill in the main lodge is a full service restaurant open for lunch and dinner. The seasonal Castle Dome Cafe adjacent to the lodge offers burgers, hot dogs, and snack food. And, Zion Canyon Brew Pub in Springdale offers a full food menu in addition to a variety of craft brews.

Hiking in Zion Canyon

Zion National Park offers more hiking options than I can list here, from the 0.4 mile Archaeology Trail in Zion Canyon to the 47 mile (one way) Trans-Zion Trek from the East Entrance to Lee’s Pass in the Kolob Canyons section of the park. Popular hikes in Zion Canyon include the 3.5 mile round trip Watchman Trail and Pa’Rus Trail hikes near the South (Springdale) Entrance, the Emerald Pools Trail, the West Rim Trail, and the strenuous (five miles roundtrip with 1520 feet of elevation gain) Angel’s Landing Trail. Hiking the Angel’s Landing Trail now requires a permit. Permits are limited and are awarded via a lottery system. Check the park’s website for information on applying for a permit.

One of the most spectacular hikes in the canyon is The Narrows. There is no trail through The Narrows – you’re hiking the bed of the Virgin River through a narrow canyon no more than 40 feet wide in places. If you’re interested in hiking The Narrows, be sure to check with the park rangers at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center. No permit is required, but The Narrows may be closed to hiking due to the possibility of flash floods. Thunderstorms many miles north of the park may lead to sudden and potentially life threatening rises in the river level with no warning, even when the park is sunny and cloudless. But if it’s doable safely, it’s a fantastic and unique hiking experience.

Trails outside of Zion Canyon (and all canyoneering routes) require a wilderness pass. Most are available online through the park’s website, but permits for some trails are only available in person.

Other Things to do in and near Zion Canyon

If you’re young and adventurous, canyoneering may interest you. Canyoneering involves traversing canyons, primarily slot canyons, that do not have established trails. Some, but not all, routes require technical rock climbing or rappelling skills. Since canyoneering permits within Zion National Park go quickly, advance planning is required. If you’re new to the sport, a guided canyoneering trip is probably the best way to go. There are a number of canyoneering guides, including ZionGuru, Zion Rock and Mountain Guides, and Zion Adventure Company, that offer a variety of trips for all skill levels, including family tours.

One hour and three hour horseback rides within the park can be booked through Canyon Trail Rides.

Mountain biking tours are available from a number of tour companies in Springdale. Note that these tours are outside of the park. I have no personal experience here, but from their websites they look to be pretty scenic and more than a little adventurous. Check the tour company websites for pricing and other information. Some offer discounts if you bring your own bike.

Off road vehicle tours are also available from a variety of providers. Like mountain bike tours, these are outside of the park. Again, I have no personal experience, so can’t make any recommendations, but the tours are popular.

Kolob Arch (National Park Service photo)

When you’ve finished exploring Zion Canyon, take a drive to the Kolob Canyons area in the north end of the park. This is an area that many visitors to Zion skip, but shouldn’t. Stop at the visitor center just off I-15 at Exit 40, then drive to the Kolob Canyons Viewpoint at the end of the road and hike the short Timber Creek Overlook Trail. If you’re up for more of an adventure, take the 14 mile out and back hike to Kolob Arch. This is a strenuous hike and should only be done by experienced hikers in good condition, but the reward is a view of the second largest free standing arch in the world (second only to Landscape Arch in Arches National Park). The trail to Kolob Arch starts at Lee’s Pass on the Kolob Canyons Road.

Outside of Zion

Often overlooked, Cedar Breaks National Monument, about 60 miles north of Zion Canyon, is an easy day trip and well worth a visit. Bryce Canyon National Park is only about 80 miles from Springdale, so it’s another easy day trip (but is spectacular enough you’ll want to spend a few days there). Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park is a short ways off the road to Bryce and is also worth a stop, as is Kodachrome Basin State Park, just east of Bryce. And if you’ve got another few days (or weeks), the sprawling, nearly one million acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument stretches from Bryce Canyon east to Capitol Reef National Park.

I can pretty much guarantee that no matter who you are or where your interests lie, a trip to Zion National Park will be an adventure you will not soon forget.

Originally posted June 14, 2021 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted March 15, 2024.

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Fern Canyon Hike, California Redwoods

Fern Canyon Hike

Where: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, California

Distance: One mile

Type: Lollypop loop

Elevation gain: 500 feet

Difficulty: Easy (or moderate to difficult if blocked by log jams)

Map:

Park brochure

Overview:

Fern Canyon is one of those magical places that are truly unique. I’ve never seen another place quite like it. You won’t find redwoods here, the canyon is neither deep nor wide, and the trail is short. But the vertical walls completely covered in ferns – six different species if I recall correctly – are the attraction here. And the fact that the canyon is narrow gives the experience an intimacy that grander spaces lack.

The “trail” through the canyon does not actually exist. You’re hiking the creek bed. In the summer and fall, boardwalks are strategically placed to help hikers, but come prepared to get your feet wet. And when I did this hike there was a huge log jam in the middle of the hike that spanned the canyon from wall to wall and necessitated climbing over, around, or under the logs. But even if you go only part way and must turn around, it is still a worthwhile hike.

This is a popular hike, and in the summer (May 15 to September 15) a free timed entry parking permit is required. The permit is only available online from the park website and must be obtained at least one day in advance. You can opt for either a morning or afternoon window. Note that dogs are not permitted on the trail.

Getting there:

Fern Canyon is located in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park on the northern California coast, approximately 50 miles north of Eureka.

Coming from the south, turn left off US 101 onto Davison Road 2.7 miles north of Orick. Follow Davison Road to the beach where it turns north and becomes Gold Bluffs Beach Road. The Fern Canyon trailhead is at the end of the road. If you’re coming from the north, the Davison Road turnoff is 2.3 miles south of the south end of the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway.

Davison Road and Gold Bluffs Beach Road are gravel and rough in places, and there are two small creeks that must be forded. A high ground clearance vehicle is recommended, but not absolutely needed, at least in the summer. The road may be closed during and after storms. Check the park’s current conditions webpage for off season closures.

Trailhead:

The trailhead at the end of Gold Bluffs Beach Road has space for about 30 vehicles and has restrooms. Drinking water is not available – bring your own.

The hike:

The trail starts at the northeast corner of the parking lot. In about one quarter of a mile you will come to a junction. Stay right and follow the creek up the canyon. Fern Canyon is only about a quarter mile long, but it’s a magical quarter mile. You’ll want to take your time and savor this short hike. And it will seem longer because of all the scrambling you have to do since the trail is the creek bed.

The logjam we encountered in the middle of the hike also took quite a while to negotiate. Once you reach the head of the canyon, you will see a trail leading into the forest to your left which will take you back to the junction you passed at the beginning of the canyon. Or you can simply turn around and retrace your steps through the canyon.

Best time to go:

The trail is open year-round, but because the trail is the creek bed and the canyon is narrow, the canyon may not be accessible in late fall and winter. The road to the parking area may also be closed during and after storm events. The best time to visit Fern Canyon might be early fall (after September 15). It’s likely to be much less crowded than in the summer months and a permit is not required.

Other area attractions and activities:

There are too many attractions in the Redwoods to list them all. Gold Bluffs Beach is worth a stop on your way back from your hike. There’s also a campground there if you want to make Fern Canyon more than just a day trip. The Prairie Creek Redwoods visitor center, near the south end of the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway is also worth a stop. And there are several worthwhile hikes through the redwoods off the parkway to the north. And the other parks that make up the Redwoods National and State Parks complex all offer outstanding hiking experiences. See my California Coast Redwoods post for more information on the wonders of the Redwoods.

Posted March 3, 2024 by Alan K. Lee

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Everglades National Park

A few years ago my wife and I had the privilege of exploring Key West, the rest of the Keys, and Everglades National Park on a winter getaway.

The Florida Everglades are about as far from our home in the Pacific Northwest as you can get without leaving the continent. I always envisioned the Everglades as swamp and marshland and nothing else, but it’s actually a quite diverse ecosystem. Wetlands make up much of the park, to be sure, but grassland covers a lot of it, too, with islands (called “hammocks”) of hardwoods scattered throughout. Pines dominate the higher ridges. Cypress swamps are found mainly in the northern part of the park and the adjacent Big Cypress National Preserve. And the coastal areas have both mangrove swamps and coastal prairie ecosystems.

The park was created in 1947 to preserve what remained of the Everglades after nearly half of century of damming, diverting, and draining the waters of the “river of grass” that had once flowed unimpeded from Lake Okeechobee to Biscayne Bay, Florida Bay, and the Ten thousand Islands area on the Gulf Coast.

Today, the Everglades are still one of the most endangered ecosystems in the country. Diversion of water upstream of the park for use by the agricultural industry and the ever growing population of southern Florida has greatly reduced the volume of water flowing through the park, which in turn has had a significant impact on the flora and fauna of the park. Nutrient pollution and residual pesticides from agricultural runoff have also had a significant impact on the park’s ecosystem. Introduced species, such as the Burmese python, have also put stress on the system. And, since much of the Everglades is less than three feet above sea level, global warming and sea level rise threaten the very existence of the Everglades.

There are two main accesses to Everglades National Park. The Tamiami Trail (US Hwy 41) cuts across the northern part of park and southern part of the Big Cypress National Preserve, and gives access to the Shark Valley Visitor Center in the northern part of the park and the Gulf Coast Visitor Center in Everglades City. The southern part of the park is accessed from the Homestead and Florida City area via Florida Hwy 9336, which crosses the park and ends at the town of Flamingo on Florida Bay.

The Shark Valley and Gulf Coast parts of the park are well worth visiting, but if you only have a day to spend at the park, the southern section is more diverse and has more things to see and do than the other areas. Stop at the Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center, just inside the park boundary, to get maps and information on the park and park activities, but don’t spend a lot of time there. Instead, head to the Royal Palm Visitor Center.

The guide books didn’t even come close to preparing us for what we found at Royal Palm. The first thing we noticed was that blue tarps covered many of the cars in the parking lot. It seems that the local Black Vultures, for some unexplained reason, are known to eat the weather stripping around car windshields. We dutifully covered our rental car with one of the park-provided tarps, though there were none of the car-eating vultures present. The visitor center is pretty much a standard issue national park center, but what’s outside will amaze you. Just outside the back door of the center is a large pond. The first thing we saw there was a large alligator, apparently asleep, only a few feet from the walkway. Yikes!

Sitting on a railing post next to the pond, a Double-crested Cormorant ignored the people walking within feet of it. Four or five Black Vultures stood a few feet off the trail looking more bored than threatening. Along the Anhinga Trail more alligators lounged within feet of the trail. One was actually laying part way onto the paved trail. We got close up views and photos of Great Blue Herons, Great Egrets, Little Blue Herons, Anhingas, White Ibis, Purple Gallinules, and many other birds along the trail. And in one water hole next to the trail, twenty or more alligators lazed together, maybe waiting for warmer weather (this was in February and it was unusually cold for south Florida). For a wildlife photographer, this place is paradise.

The other trail from the visitor center, the Gumbo Limbo Trail, takes you into a hardwood hammock. It’s less peopled and has fewer birds and other wildlife, but it is a nice, quiet walk and only takes a few minutes to do.

The sheer volume of birds and other wildlife at Royal Palm was astonishing, as was their total disregard for the people in their midst. No need for a long telephoto lens here.

Farther along the road to Flamingo, the Long Pine Key, Pahayokey Overlook, and Mahogany Hammock stops offer short hiking trails. Canoeing and kayaking opportunities are found at Nine Mile Pond and West Lake. You’ll also find a nice picnic area at Nine Mile Pond, and another at Paroutis Pond.

At Flamingo, get information on local area bird watching opportunities and check for ranger-led activities at the Flamingo Visitor Center. The center also has a small cafe where you can get sandwiches or a pizza. You can stock up on supplies at the Flamingo Marina Store next door. Manatees can often be found hanging out in the marina. A pair of Ospreys had built a nest on top of a pole at the marina when we were there, also. And you might catch a glimpse of the rare American Crocodile there. Ask at the visitor center if there have been an recent sightings and how to tell a crocodile from an alligator. The marina offers boat, canoe, and kayak rentals, and a 50 minute tour of the coastal area aboard a 30 passenger boat.

We had planned to take an air boat tour the next day in the Shark Valley area along the Tamiami Trail, but there was rain in the forecast for that day, and the air boats apparently don’t run in the rain. So, it was on to Plan B. That took us to the Shark Valley Visitor Center and a naturalist led tram ride to an observation tower about seven miles to the south. You can also rent bicycles at the visitor center, and we probably would have done that if the weather had been less threatening. But the two hour tram tour was informative and entertaining, and the ranger stopped at every available photo op.

Alligators at the Shark Valley observatory

We saw many more alligators at Shark Valley, specially around the observation tower, and many, many birds, including Wood Storks, Roseate Spoonbills, and Red-shouldered Hawks. No sharks, though. The name Shark Valley comes from the Shark River Slough that flows through the valley. Some sharks do come upstream to give birth in the slough, but not in the area of the visitor center.

We continued west from Shark Valley to Everglades City and the Gulf Coast Visitor Center. This is the jumping off point for exploring the Ten Thousand Islands section of the gulf coast, and for paddling the 99 mile long Wilderness Waterway Trail. Naturalist-led boat tours can be arranged at the visitor center, and rangers lead bike and canoe tours between Christmas and Easter.

Anyone who has read Peter Matthiessen’s historical novel Killing Mister Watson will probably want to continue on past Everglades City to Chokoloskee. The book tells the story of Edgar J. Watson, a notorious, and probably murderous, real life character. Watson had never been convicted, but was suspected in many disappearances, and greatly feared. In 1910, on the beach next to the Smallwood Store in Chokoloskee, more than twenty men from the local area gunned him down, claiming self defense. None of the men involved were ever charged with his killing. The Smallwood Store still stands, though it is a museum now.

If you’re a birder, wildlife photographer, nature lover, or just someone that likes to see places that are different from where you live, the Everglades will thrill you.

For more information about the park and the Everglades, go to the park website. And if you plan to visit Everglades National Park, no visit to south Florida is complete without paying the Florida Keys and Key West a visit.

Originally posted December 4, 2018 by Alan K. Lee. Most recently updated February 27, 2024.

Beaver Creek

Every year, hundreds of thousands of people visit the Oregon coast, lured by the spectacular scenery, the many miles of beaches, and the dozens of often charming and sometimes quirky small towns. The more popular places are crowded, often overcrowded, in the summer and fall, but if you know where to look you can find uncrowded, sometimes deserted, beaches, trails, and other attractions, even in the high season. Sometimes all you have to do is look east of Hwy 101. Beaver Creek is a prime example. It flows into the ocean at Ona Beach, located between Newport and Waldport on the central coast. Ona Beach is often crowded, but if you turn east off Hwy 101 at the Ono Beach access instead of west, you come immediately to a boat launch area on Beaver Creek. When I was last there, the boat launch parking lot was almost empty. The beach parking lot was full.

Before it reaches the ocean, Beaver Creek flows through a freshwater marsh that teems with wildlife. The marsh is critical habitat for Coho salmon, winter steelhead, and cutthroat trout. The creek and marsh are also home to beaver and river otter. Elk, deer, coyotes, black bears, and the occasional cougar also roam the marsh and adjacent upland areas. Beaver Creek is also prime birding territory. More than 75 species waterfowl and other birds inhabit the area. So, bring your binoculars and camera, and keep your eyes open.

Beaver Creek State Natural Area can be explored both by boat and by foot. Launch your canoe or kayak at the boat ramp adjacent to Hwy 101, or drive a mile east on North Beaver Creek Road to access the hiking trails. Even in mid-summer you’re likely to encounter few other people (they’re all at the beach). I have not paddled Beaver Creek, so I’ll leave a description of that for a future post, but I have hiked the area. There is a nice view from the top of Snaggy Point, but the main attraction here is the peaceful and quietly beautiful area that is largely unknown to the general populace and almost completely unknown to the hoards of out of state tourists.

The Beaver Creek visitor center, 1.2 miles east of Hwy 101 on North Beaver Creek Road, would normally be a good first stop to acquaint yourself with the area. If it’s open, you can pick up an informational brochure and map of the trail system there. The map and brochure can also be downloaded from the Beaver Creek State Natural Area website (linked above). There is also a small parking area a few hundred yards east of the visitor center that may have the map and brochure if the visitor center is closed. You can also find a checklist of the birds found at Beaver Creek on the website.

The Beaver Creek Loop Trail is an easy, mostly flat trail that circles the upland area across the marsh from the visitor center. There are also connecting trails that take you to high points with some open views. The loop trail is about three miles long and takes you through a mixed forest of second growth conifer and alder forest. You can hike the loop in an hour, but give yourself 2-3 hours (or more) to linger and enjoy the peace and quiet. Click on the link above for a detailed description of the loop trail hike.

There are many reasons to visit the central Oregon coast. Beaver Creek by itself might not be a destination that warrants the trip, but if you’re a hiker, kayaker, or birder, or just want some peace and quiet away from other tourists, it makes for a pleasant side trip. And you might find that it’s a place you return to whenever you’re in the area. I know I’ll be back soon.

There are plenty of other places on the central Oregon coast to visit that can easily be paired with a trip to Beaver Creek to make for a pleasant day trip or weekend outing. Even if it’s crowded, Ona Beach is worth exploring. And a couple miles south, Seal Rock State Park is one of the more beautiful spots on the central coast. To the north, the Newport area has an abundance of places to find good food and drink. And Newport also has a couple of the premier attractions on the central coast.

Tufted Puffin. Photo from the Oregon Coast Aquarium website.

In the South Beach area, just across the Yaquina bay Bridge from downtown Newport, you’ll find both the Oregon Coast Aquarium, one of the Pacific Coast’s premier aquariums, and Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Science Center, home to one of the world’s foremost marine education and research programs. Both are well worth a visit. The Oregon Coast Aquarium is open 10:00-5:00 daily. Ticket prices range from $15 for children 3-12 to $25 for adults. Admission for seniors (65+) and teens (3-17) is $20. Infants and toddlers get in free. Tickets can be purchased online or at the gate. The visitor center at the Hatfield Center is open 10:00-4:00 Thu-Mon. Admission is $5 (ages five and up). Tickets need to be purchased online on the center’s website.

Next time you’re in the Newport area, give Beaver Creek a look. I think you might be pleasantly surprised.

Posted February 25, 2024 by Alan K. Lee

Lauterbrunnen Valley, Switzerland

It’s been almost a decade since my wife and I visited Switzerland, but the memories haven’t faded. One of the highlights of our visit was the Lauterbrunnen Valley in the Berner Oberland section of central Switzerland. It is by any measure one of the most spectacularly beautiful places in the world.

We came to Switzerland after a Rhine River cruise that ended in Basel, Switzerland. From there we continued on to the small village of Murren, perched on the edge of the glacier carved Lauterbrunnen Valley, some 2300 feet above the valley floor.

Looking down on Murren from the Birg cable car station

To get there, we took a Swiss Rail train from Basel to Interlaken, then transferred to a local train that took us to the village of Lauterbrunnen where we boarded a cable-car lift that took us up the side of the valley. From the upper cable-car station it was a short 15 minute ride on a narrow gauge railway to Murren. If that all sounds a little complicated, it wasn’t. The train to Interlachen was direct with no stops. There was almost no layover in Interlachen. The cable car station in Lauterbrunnen is a short walk through a tunnel under the main street. The gondola was waiting for us in the station. The narrow gauge train at the top was there waiting for us to arrive. It all ran like the proverbial Swiss watch. It couldn’t have been easier.

You can also reach Murren by taking a local bus up the valley from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg. From there you can ride the lift that takes you first to the little village of Gimmelwald, then to Murren. From Murren it continues to the top of Schilthorn at an elevation 9744 feet. Gimmelwald is Rick Steves’ favorite village in the area, and it is certainly a picturesque and charming little village, but it’s tiny and accommodations are limited. Murren has many more lodging options and tourist services, but it is more crowded and very much a tourist town.

After getting settled in our hotel in Murren, we went for a hike above the village. Even though it was cloudy and none of the surrounding mountains were in view, the slopes of the valley are dotted with meadows and patches of forest, and are spectacularly beautiful. We hiked to Allmendhubel, where there is a children’s playground and a small cafe. Murren and Allmendhubel are connected by a funicular, but it was not running at the time. The trail to Allmendhubel passes a restaurant and inn called Sonnenberg. And not far from there is the Pension Suppenlap, another inn and restaurant. Both are high above Murren. There is a service road to them, but it is not open to the public. The only way to get to them is to walk. (Murren also has no public vehicular access.)

The meadows above Murren are grazed by cattle in the summer. Local farmers have huts (called alps) at various heights above the valley floor. The alps are manned by a team that tends the cattle and turns the milk produced into the local cheese. Each alp also has a herd of pigs that are fed the leftovers from the cheese making process. In the fall the farmers move their livestock down to the valley floor, sometimes in bad weather by the same gondola that transports the summer tourists.

Jungfrau Massive viewed from near Murren

Across the valley from Murren are the peaks of the Jungfrau Massive – the famous Eiger, Monch in the center, and the highest, Jungfrau. They were in the clouds the day we arrived, but the following morning the sun was shining and the three mountains were there in all their glory. Quite a sight, to say the least.

Schilthorn cable-car approaching the Birg station

We rode the cable-car from Murren up to the top of Schilthorn that morning. The first leg of the ride takes you to the Birg station where you transfer to another gondola that takes you to the top of Schilthorn. At Birg there is a walkway out over the edge of the cliff where you can look straight down through the grated floor hundreds of feet to the rocks below.

At the Schilthorn summit there is a revolving restaurant and viewing platform with panoramic views east across the valley to Jungrau, Monch, and Eiger, south and west to a seemingly endless expanse of mountain peaks, and to Lake Thun and the town of Thun to the north. Part of the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service was filmed at the top of Schilthorn and the there is a Bond World 007 exhibit and theater there that’s at least worth a quick visit.

That afternoon we took the cable-car down to the valley floor. A short bus ride took us to Trummelbach Falls. It’s hard to describe just how amazing this waterfall is. It’s actually a series of ten cascades, or chutes, inside the cliff face. The top and bottom of the falls are narrow slot canyons only a few feet wide, and the central part is completely within the mountain. From the bottom an elevator takes you up inside the mountain to a series of walkways, tunnels, and stairs that follow the cascades through the caves and slot canyons. Even in mid-summer when we were there the volume of water blasting through the mountain was awe inspiring. There just isn’t anything like this anywhere else in the world, as far as I know. It’s certainly the most incredible waterfall I’ve ever seen. You simply can’t capture the magic of this place with a camera. You have to see it to understand how truly mind boggling it really is.

Lauterbrunnen is a short bus ride from Trummelbach. It’s bisected by a busy road and crowded with tourists, but has a few good pubs and restaurants. It would be just another tourist town if it weren’t located where it is. The town is crowded up against the thousand foot high vertical wall of the valley. On the other side of the Weisse Lutschine River the eastern wall of the valley rises to the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau peaks. A half mile from the town, and visible from almost everywhere in the valley, Staubbach Falls cascades 974 feet down the canyon wall. And there are many other waterfalls lining both sides of the valley. Did I say this place is spectacularly beautiful?

The next morning we rode the train and lift down to Lauterbrunnen, then took the electric powered cog railway through Wengen and on up (way up) to Jungfraujoch, between the Jungfrau and Monch peaks, via a tunnel through the interior of the Eiger and Monch. Jungfraujoch, at an elevation of about 11,300 feet, is the highest train station in Europe. Mountain climbing by train! It’s hard to believe that the rail line was built more than a hundred years ago. It was cold, windy, and blindingly bright at the top, but magnificent. I probably took 150 photos that morning. Very, very cool place.

On the way down from Jungfraujoch we stopped at the Kleine Scheidegg station for lunch, then got on the wrong train. We wound up going to Grindelwald instead of Lauterbrunnen, but it was a very scenic wrong turn. From Grindelwald the train took us back to Interlaken. We then took another train back to Lauterbrunnen.

We left the next morning, but reluctantly. We could easily have spent a week or more there and not run out of things to do and see. For one thing, it is an absolute hikers paradise, and we did only that one relatively short hike to Allmenhubel. I hope to return someday when I can more fully explore this incredible area. It’s truly one of the most beautiful places in the world.

From Lautenbrunnen we travelled to Bern and then to Basel before returning home. Both are well worth visiting. Click here to view my post on Bern and Basel.

Originally posted by Alan K. Lee, June 8, 2019

Updated and re-posted March 6, 2021 and January 31, 2024

Whale Watch Week

In early winter every year approximately 18,000 gray whales migrate south from their feeding grounds in Alaska to their breeding grounds in Baja California. At the peak of this migration, about 30 whales per hour pass any given point along their route.

Gray Whale sculpture in Puerto Adolofo Lopez Mateos, Baja California Sur

The spring migration north is spread out over several months, so there are fewer whales per hour to see than during their southerly migration, but the weather is often better and the calves born in Baja can be seen making their way north to Alaska with their mothers. The mothers and calves also migrate closer to shore than the whales in their winter migration south.

Adult gray whales are huge: 40-50 feet long and up to 90,000 pounds in weight – as big and heavy as a loaded semi-truck. They are also a long-lived species, 55-70 years is not uncommon, and some have been estimated to be as much as 80 years old. Gray whales are simply magnificent creatures, and they draw thousands of people to the Pacific coast in hopes of seeing them pass by. And because they migrate close to the shore, the many headlands along the Oregon coast are prime whale watching viewpoints.

Every year, the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department sponsors two Whale Watch Week events, one in the winter and another in the spring when the whales make their return trip to Alaska. The 2025 spring dates are March 22-30. During the event, fifteen sites along the Oregon coast will be manned by volunteers to assist whale watchers in seeing these amazing creatures. You can also tune in to a live video feed during the event. For more information, go to the Oregon Whale Watch website or the Oregon State Parks whale watch website.

Photo by Marc Webber, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

The majority of the world’s gray whales spend their summers feeding in the waters around Alaska (a few spend their summers along the coast of the U.S. and Canada) and migrate to Baja California to breed and give birth in the winter months. A smaller, and endangered, population migrates south along the northeast Asian coast. In the past, gray whales also ranged along both the European and North American Atlantic coastlines, and migrated to North Africa and possibly as far as South America to breed. But the Atlantic population has been almost totally extirpated by the whaling industry. In recent years, though, a few gray whales have been sighted in the Mediterranean and along the Atlantic coastlines of Africa and South America.

Whale watching at Depoe Bay, Oregon. Photo from the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife.

If you’re a resident of the Pacific Northwest, or are planning a visit over the holidays or in the spring, consider adding a trip to the Oregon coast to see these wonderful creatures. In addition to the on shore whale watching sites, you can also take whale watching cruises out of Depoe Bay, Oregon and other coastal ports. There’s no guarantee, of course, that you’ll see whales on any given day, but if you do, you won’t be sorry that you made the trip. And you or your children may remember it for the rest of you lives.

Photo by Merrill Gosho, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

Even if you don’t see any whales on your trip, the Oregon coast has much else to offer the visitor. Check out my posts linked below for more on the Oregon coast:

Wreck of the Peter Iredale. Photo © Alan K. Lee.

Fort Stevens State Park

Hug Point State Park

Oswald West State Park

Haystack Rock, Cannon Beach, Oregon. Photo © Alan K. Lee.

Four charming Northern Oregon Coast Towns

Florence, Oregon

Bandon, Oregon

Natural Bridges, Boardman State Scenic Corridor, Oregon. Photo © Alan K. Lee.

The magnificent Southern Oregon Coast

Originally posted December 22, 2023 by Alan K. Lee. Most recent update March 4, 2025.

Photo Notes:

The featured image at the top of this post is by Merrill Gosho, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. All photos except those by the author were sourced from Wikimedia Commons.

Gig Harbor, Washington

Gig Harbor, Washington is located on Puget Sound near Tacoma. My first visit came only about five years ago. At the time it was one of the few towns on Puget Sound that I had not explored. I had heard testimonials to the town’s charm. And charming it is, at least the historic downtown along the waterfront. Like Poulsbo and other small Puget Sound communities, it is the historic center and waterfront that draws visitors to the town. Away from the waterfront, Gig Harbor is like most other small towns and suburbs in the Puget Sound area – almost certainly a nice place to live, but not much reason to visit. But the historic downtown is most definitely worth visiting. I don’t know why I had never visited before, but my wife and I have returned to Gig Harbor several times since that first visit, and I’m sure we will be back again soon. It has become one of our favorite places in Washington.

Once a small fishing village, Gig Harbor is now a bedroom community of nearby Tacoma. In the 1950s and 60s, new development in the area began to threaten the historic character of the area as the town developed after the Tacoma Narrows Bridge was built. However, city leaders steered most of the new development away from the harbor area. Today, Gig Harbor’s waterfront is an attractive and charming commercial district that blends modern aesthetics with the area’s historic and cultural heritage.

The history of Gig Harbor dates back to 1840, when Captain Charles Wilkes steered his “captain’s gig” into the sheltered bay during a heavy storm. The following year he published a map of the Oregon Territory, naming the bay Gig Harbor.

The Gig Harbor area was settled after the Civil War by Scandinavian and Croatian immigrants. In addition to commercial fishing, boat building and logging were also important components of Gig Harbor’s early economy. Among the prominent boat builders were the Skansie Brothers, who built the regions first gasoline powered fishing boat in 1905. The Skansie Netshed and House, home of Andrew and Bertha Skansie, is on the National Register of Historic Places.

When you arrive in Gig Harbor, park your car downtown (parking is free, but you need to get there early on summer weekends), and take a walk along the waterfront. The Skansie Netshed and House is located in Skansie Brothers Park. Maritime Pier, Jersich Dock, Ancich Park, and Eddon Boat Park are other spots where you can access the waterfront.

At the head of the bay, check out the Harbor History Museum. You can learn much more about the history and heritage of the Gig Harbor area there and see the Shenandoah, a 65-foot wooden purse-seiner built in 1925, that is being restored at the museum.

The museum is located where Donkey Creek flows into the harbor, and when the salmon are spawning you can watch them swimming upstream from viewing platforms in Donkey Creek Park, across Harborview Drive from the museum.

Tourism is more important than fishing to Gig Harbor’s economy today, but a small fishing fleet still exists and is still important to the cultural identity of the town. On the first weekend of June each year, during the Maritime Gig Festival, the fleet gathers in the bay for a Blessing of the Fleet ceremony.

Getting out on the water is both great fun and a way to view the waterfront from a different perspective. You can rent kayaks, stand-up paddle boards, and electric boats at Gig Harbor Boat Rentals, if you’re so inclined.

If you’re thinking about paying Gig Harbor a visit, a good place to start is the Gig Harbor Guide. It offers useful information on the history of the town, accommodations and dining options, and a detailed calendar of events.

My wife and I timed our first visit to coincide with the Gig Harbor Beer Festival. We’re from Beervana (also known as Portland), after all, and we frequently seek out new opportunities to sample craft beers that we’ve not tried before. Gig Harbor has four craft breweries: Gig Harbor Brewing, 7 Seas Brewing, Wet Coast Brewing, and Dunagan Brewing. We sampled beers from all but Dunagan at the beer festival, and we both found a number of beers to our liking, even though we have very different tastes in beer. Gig Harbor Brewing and 7 Seas Brewing have taprooms located on the waterfront in Gig Harbor. Wet Coast has a taproom just off Hwy 16 in the newer part of Gig Harbor. And Dunagan’s Irish Pub and Brewery is located about a mile south of Wet Coast, also just off Hwy 16. Of the four, only Dunagan’s serves food. If you want to eat as well as drink, try the Tides Tavern or one of the other establishments listed in the Gig Harbor Guide.

One restaurant that you should not miss is Netshed No. 9. Breakfast there was so good that we came back the next morning. And it has become our go to spot for breakfast when we’re in Gig Harbor. Try their triple berry whipped ricotta French toast. It might be the best French toast I’ve ever had. Netshed No. 9 is not open for dinner, but the same owners operate Brix 25°, located next door. We didn’t eat there, so I can’t vouch for it personally, but I have no doubt that it offers the same quality dining experience. One dinner place that we did eat at is Il Lucano, a very fine, authentic Italian restaurant a few blocks off the waterfront. Another place that I can recommend is Millville Pizza, on the waterfront. They serve artisanal wood fired pizzas, appetizers and homemade desserts. In my opinion, Millville is one of the best pizza places in the Northwest.

Today, many of Gig Harbor’s roughly 10,000 inhabitants commute to Tacoma across the Tacoma Narrows Bridge. The first bridge was built in 1940, but due to a design flaw, it proved to be vulnerable to cross winds. Nicknamed “Galloping Gertie,” it collapsed in a relatively minor windstorm only a few months after it was completed. It wasn’t until 1950 that a replacement bridge was built.

Once known mostly for the “Tacoma Aroma” produced by the polluted tide flats of Commencement Bay, a pulp and paper mill, a rendering plant, and an oil refinery, Tacoma has experienced a cultural, environmental, and artistic renaissance in recent decades. Industrial areas, like the old Dickman Mill site (now a city park), have been reclaimed and remediated. And the Tacoma Aroma is no more, thanks to modern environmental regulations. Today, the city has a vibrant arts scene, highlighted by the Museum of Glass and the Tacoma Art Museum in the Museum District. The city also has many beautiful parks. The 760-acre Point Defiance Park features a zoo, an aquarium, several botanical gardens, hundreds of acres of forest, and miles of Puget Sound waterfront. So, consider adding a visit to Tacoma to your itinerary when you come to Gig Harbor. But regardless of whether or not you choose to visit Tacoma, Gig Harbor should definitely be on your radar, if it’s not already. It’s an interesting, historical, and beautiful town with a lot of things to see and do.

Originally posted August 29, 2019 by Alan K. Lee. Most recent update December 9, 2023.

Winter Hikes at Silver Falls

by Alan K. Lee

The following is an edited and expanded version of a post first published (in a different format) on this site on December 31, 2019.

Winter Hikes at Silver Falls

Where: Silver Falls State Park, Oregon, USA

Distance: One to eight miles

Elevation gain: 300 to 800 feet

Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Map: Oregon State Parks map and brochure

Overview:

Winter is closing in, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t still good hiking options in the Willamette Valley. Silver Falls State Park near Silverton, Oregon offers a number of loops and out and back hikes from barely one mile to nearly eight miles in length that take you to one or more of the eleven named waterfalls in the park. There are also back country trails in the park offering even longer hikes (though no waterfalls). And the park is once again holding its Winter Festival in December that will offer ranger-guided hikes in the park and informational displays about the plants and animals found in the park.

Silver Falls has been called the crown jewel of the Oregon state parks system. You’ll get no argument from me. It’s a spectacularly beautiful and unique place. Where else can you see 10 (or more) waterfalls on a single hike? I grew up in Salem, about a 30 minute drive from the falls. I’ve been there countless times, and it has never failed to delight and sometimes amaze me. When I started this blog in 2018, Silver Falls was my first post.

Winter can bring snow and ice and dangerous conditions to the trails in the park. But at an elevation of about 1500 feet, the park isn’t high enough for snow to remain on the ground all winter. And on my last winter visit to the park the temperature was in the mid 40s and there was no sign of snow.

Getting there:

Silver Falls State Park is located about fifteen miles east of Salem, Oregon. Coming from Salem or south, take Ore Hwy 22 east and look for signs to Silver Falls. The turn off onto Ore Hwy 214 is about five miles east of Interstate-5. The South Falls day use area is about 15 miles from Hwy 22. Coming from the north, take exit 271 off I-5 at Woodburn. Proceed through Woodburn on Ore Hwy 214, which then takes you through the towns of Mount Angel and Silverton. The park is about 12 miles beyond Silverton.

Trailheads:

There are four trailheads in the main canyon area. By far the largest parking area is at South Falls. There is a small parking area (eight spaces) at the Winter Falls trailhead. The North Falls and new North Canyon trailheads have parking for 30-50 vehicles. There are no facilities at the Winter Falls trailhead, but the other three have restrooms and drinking water available. The South Falls area also has a cafe and a nature store. All parking areas require an Oregon State Parks day use pass. Daily passes are $5 and can be purchased at the South Falls, North Falls, and North Canyon trailheads. Annual passes are $30 for one year and $50 for two years, and can be purchased online through the at the Oregon State Parks website. (The 12-month pass increases to $60 and the 24-month pass will no longer be sold beginning January 1, 2026).

The South Falls-Maple Ridge hike:

This 2.2-mile loop is a good option if you don’t have time to do any of the longer hikes possible in the park. Starting at the South Falls parking area, make your way to the creek above the falls and follow it downstream to the viewing area at the top of the falls. At 177 feet, South Falls is the highest falls on the north or south forks of Silver Creek and the second highest in the park. From the top of the falls the trail descends to a good vantage point a short way down the trail. Just below the first viewpoint look for a signed side trail to Frenchie Falls. This is the eleventh named falls and the smallest by volume, but it’s worth a look. Back on the main Canyon Trail there are several more places where you can get a good view of South Falls.

Continue down the main trail, which will take you behind South Falls. Here you will be between two layers of the Columbia River Basalt lava flows that are about 15-16 million years old. You’ll be tempted to linger behind the falls because it’s a pretty cool spot, but be prepared to get wet. Spray from the falls often soaks the whole “cave” behind the falls.

Below the falls there are several good viewpoints. Just downstream of the falls you’ll come to the first trail junction. The trail across the bridge will take you back to the parking area for a one-mile loop hike.

Continuing on the Canyon Trail, you’ll next come to Lower South Falls at approximately the one-mile mark. Here the trail also goes behind the falls. Below the falls, you’ll come to the junction with the Maple Ridge Trail at the 1.4-mile mark of the hike. Take the Maple Ridge Trail and climb out of the canyon.

Along the rim of the canyon the Myrtle Ridge Trail takes you through a world of moss and ferns. In the summer it’s shaded by the many Bigleaf Maples and Douglas Firs that line the trail, but in the winter it’s more open and, if you’re lucky enough to get some sunshine, the moss-covered trees and rocks and the ferns can be a vibrant green that is captivating. There wasn’t any sunshine on my last winter hike there, but the moss and ferns still provided a shot of greenery that contrasts with the darker green of the conifers above. Follow the Myrtle Ridge Trail back to the South Falls day use area where you started.

South Falls-Winter Falls loop:

The South Falls-Winter Falls loop is a longer hike (approximately 4.5 miles) than the South Falls-Myrtle Ridge loop. Follow the trail as described above, but at the Myrtle Ridge Trail junction, continue on the Canyon Trail. Here the Canyon Trail leaves the south fork of Silver Creek and joins the north fork. Following the north fork upstream, look for an intermittent waterfall across the creek at the 1.9-mile mark.

The trail then takes you to Lower North Falls (30 feet) at the 2.4-mile mark. Just above the falls a side trail leads to Double Falls, the highest in the park at 184 feet (combined drops). The volume of water flowing over Double Falls is much less than the falls on the two forks of Silver Creek, but still worth a look.

Next up is Drake Falls (27 feet), then the 106-foot drop of Middle North Falls. A side trail here leads behind the falls, but dead ends on the other side. Back on the main trail, you will come to the junction of the Winter Falls Trail at the 2.9-mile mark. Take the Winter Falls Trail to the base of the falls. Like Double Falls, Winter Falls is on a tributary creek with less volume than either fork of Silver Creek.

From the base of the falls, continue up the trail to the rim of the canyon and return to the South Falls day use area on the Rim Trail.

Other winter hikes:

The new North Canyon trailhead and North Canyon Trail makes possible a new loop hike that I’m calling the North Canyon Loop that takes you to North and Twin Falls. And the 0.6-mile out and back hike to Upper North Falls is an easy addition to extend the hike to 3.0 miles. And of course the full 7.2-mile Trail of Ten Falls is doable year-round.

Other area attractions:

The Silverton area has a number of decent places to grab a bite to eat or a pint of beer after your hike. Try the Silver Falls Brewery and Alehouse in Silverton or the Benedictine Brewery near Mount Angel that is operated by monks from the Mount Angel Abbey. Silverton is also home to the Oregon Garden, one of the state’s leading botanical gardens. Next door to the Oregon Garden is the Gordon House, the only surviving Frank Lloyd Wright designed house in Oregon.

Posted November 27, 2023. Most recently updated November 14, 2025.

Rocky Mountain National Park

Overview

Rocky Mountain National Park in northern Colorado is without question one of the most scenic places I have ever been. Its mountains, lakes, meadows, waterfalls, rivers, and forests rival those of Glacier National Park, the Canadian Rockies, and the Teton Range. And its vast tracks of alpine tundra above the timberline and its 14,000-foot peaks make it unique. All of that, and its proximity to the Denver metropolitan area, make it one of the most visited national parks in the country.

I had the pleasure of visiting the park last August (2023) with my wife at the beginning of our tour of the Colorado Rockies that also took us to Breckenridge, Leadville, Aspen, Great Sand Dunes National Park, Alamosa, Royal Gorge, Pueblo, and Colorado Springs. We ended our tour at the Garden of the Gods, an incredibly beautiful collection of rock spires that is another of the most scenic spots I’ve ever visited.

The popularity of Rocky Mountain National Park has led to overcrowding in the past. To limit the number of visitors, the park has instituted timed entry permits, which are needed to visit both the Bear Lake area of the park and to access Trail Ridge Road, which takes you through the high-altitude country along the continental divide. The permits can be obtained through the park website but go quickly.

View from Alpine Visitor Center, Trail Ridge Road

On the first day of each month during the summer tourist season, the park opens the sale of permits for the following month. We had already made reservations for lodging in Estes Park, as well as our flight to Denver and our car rental before the entry permits for the days in August that we planned to visit were available. So, my wife got on the web early on July 1 to ensure that we got permits for our desired days, which she was able to obtain. Otherwise, we would have been scrambling to change our plans.

Estes Park

The town of Estes Park, located just outside the eastern boundary of the park, is the gateway to the park and an ideal base for exploring the park. It is a tourist town, to be sure, with at least some of the negatives that being one brings. But it also has enough appeal to make spending a whole day there an enjoyable start to your trip. We had fun exploring the compact downtown area with its many cafes, bars, art galleries, and shops. The Riverwalk along the Big Thompson River and Estes Lake is pretty, and many of the downtown businesses can be accessed from both the main street and the Riverwalk.

At an elevation of 7500 feet, Estes Park is also a good place to spend a couple of days acclimating to the altitude. If, like us, you live near sea level, giving yourself a few days to get used to the lesser oxygen content of the atmosphere is definitely something that you should consider doing. We didn’t, but we paid a bit of a price for not doing so, too.

Bear Lake Area

Our first full day in the Rockies was spent in the Bear Lake area of Rocky Mountain National Park. Having a timed entry permit doesn’t mean you’ll find a parking spot at Bear Lake, so we opted to park in the park-and-ride lot a few miles past the entry station and ride the shuttle up to the lake. The shuttles run frequently and the trip is short – 15 minutes, maybe. So, if you don’t get on the first shuttle, another will be along soon.

We did three hikes that day. The first, a short, almost flat 0.8-mile loop around Bear Lake, was a good start. Bear Lake is at almost 9500 feet, so the air was noticeably thinner than even at Estes Park. But we took it slow, soaking up the scenery and taking lots of photos.

Our second hike was longer, about two miles, and took us to Alberta Falls. The trail descends about 300 feet from Bear Lake to Tyndall Creek, then climbs to the falls on Glacier Creek. We took a shortcut on the return trip by hiking down to the Glacier Gorge trailhead and riding the shuttle back to up Bear Lake rather than hiking back up the hill.

Our third hike was the 2.5-mile out and back hike up to the aptly named Dream Lake at just under 10,000 feet. We were feeling the altitude by the time we got to the lake. We spent quite a bit of time at the lake resting and taking in the absolutely gorgeous setting. Emerald Lake is only about a third of a mile from Dream Lake, and possibly even more beautiful, but I was gassed by then, so we turned around at the head of the lake and returned to Bear Lake and picked up a shuttle ride back to our SUV.

On our way back to Estes Park we took a side trip to Moraine Park, a glacier-carved valley on the Big Thompson Reservoir lined by steep ridges to the north and south. Moraine Park was once home to a resort and golf course but has been restored to its natural state of meadow and marshland. Moraine Park is known for its elk and other wildlife, but the elk were nowhere to be seen when we were there.

Trail Ridge Road

The next morning, we packed up and headed for the high country of Trail Ridge Road. Much of the drive is above timberline. The high point of the drive is at almost 12,200 feet.

We first stopped at Beaver Meadows Visitor Center. From there, the road climbs steadily to Many Parks Curve Overlook, where you look down almost 1500 feet to Beaver Meadows and Moraine Park in the distance. At Rainbow Curve Overlook you look down on Fall River Valley, 2200 feet below you.

We stopped at Rock Cut and did a short hike at an elevation of 12,150 feet. It had to be short because just walking around at that elevation was enough to make both of us lightheaded. But, my God, what incredible scenery.

I can say with confidence that Trail Ridge Road is one of the most beautiful drives on the planet. Just awesome.

Coming down off Trail Ridge we stopped on the continental divide at Milner Pass (at 10,759 feet you actually come down in elevation from Trail Ridge to the divide). We did a short walk there along the shore of Poudre Lake and, of course, took a photo of the continental divide sign before heading south.

Upper Colorado River

The headwaters of the Colorado River lay just northwest of Milner Pass. We stopped in Coyote Valley, where we did another short hike (about 1¼ miles) along the upper reaches of the river, which at that point is just an easily wadable creek.

Conclusion

We exited the park that afternoon at Grand Lake, with some regrets that we didn’t plan for more time in the park. Two days weren’t enough. It was a pretty grand two days, but we missed a lot of what the park has to offer. I’m hopeful that we will be back someday, maybe as part of a longer Rocky Mountain adventure. I’m up for a return trip Rocky Mountain National Park, and to the Tetons, Yellowstone, and Glacier, too. I don’t know if that will happen, there are so many places that we’ve never been to, but the dream is there, and why wouldn’t it be?

Posted November 16, 2023 by Alan K. Lee