arts and culture Archives - Pacific Northwest Explorer

Copenhagen

By Alan K. Lee

Introduction

If Copenhagen is a bucket list destination for you and you are trying to decide between it and any other place, you can’t go wrong by picking Copenhagen. It wasn’t particularly high on my bucket list, but Scandinavia in general was, partly because all four of my grandparents were born in Scandinavia (none in Denmark, though). So, a tour of Scandinavia won out when my wife and I were planning our latest adventure. Copenhagen just happened to be the starting point of the tour. And we couldn’t have been more delighted by the charm and history of the city. We enjoyed our visit immensely. It’s a very cool place and I would love to go back someday.

The City

Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark and its largest city. Its population of 670,000 and metropolitan area population of 2.1 million make it very similar in size to Portland, Oregon, where we live. Copenhagen is a much more international city than Portland, though. In fact, the closest city to Copenhagen is Malmo, Sweden, only 15 miles away as the crow flies. The two cities have been connected by a road and rail bridge since 2000, making travel between the two cities and two countries quick and easy. And Copenhagen is very much a European city.

Copenhagen, especially the old city center, is bounded and defined by water. The name Copenhagen translates to Merchants Harbor and the city has been a center of maritime trade since its inception.

Most of the city is located on the island of Zealand. A smaller part is on the island of Amager. An even smaller part is the islet of Slotsholmen, the location of Christiansborg Palace. In addition to the channel separating Zealand from Amager, the city has numerous canals and side channels, so that no part of the city center is far from a waterway of some sort.

And one of the best ways to get an introduction to the city is by boat. We booked a small (twelve passenger) boat tour on our first full day in Copenhagen that was well worth the price. Our captain described the city’s sights in ways that were both informative and hilarious at times. We learned a lot and laughed a lot on that tour.

There were many people on the water that day (and every day that we were there). In addition to the tour boats, both large and small, there were many kayakers out exploring the city, and many others in private boats and rented “Go Boats.”

Rose garden in the King’s Garden (Kongens Have)

We found the city and its people to be friendly and welcoming. Denmark (and all of Scandinavia for that matter) ranks high on both the lists of the happiest places in the world and those having the highest quality of life. And you don’t need to learn any Danish to get by. Almost everyone speaks English.

King Christian V sculpture, Kongens Nytov Square, Copenhagen

History

Archeological evidence indicates that the Copenhagen area has been inhabited for at least 5000 years, and probably much longer. Copenhagen itself originated as a fishing village in the 11^th century. The city of Copenhagen dates to the 12^th century construction of a fortress on the site of what is now Christiansborg Palace. The original fortress was replaced by Copenhagen Castle in the 14^th century, which was torn down and replaced by the first Christiansborg Palace in the 18^th century.

We spent one whole day exploring Copenhagen’s history, touring Rosenborg Castle (finished in 1624), Christiansborg Palace, and the Amalienborg Museum (in one of the four palaces making up the Amalienborg Palace complex). The three palaces (or “slots” in Danish) can be visited on a single combination ticket. Rosenborg Castle is the only one of the three that requires a timed entry ticket, so visit it first if you want to see all three.

We also visited Kastellet on that same day, a former fortress near the site of the Little Mermaid sculpture that continues to house military buildings (of no particular architectural interest) that are surrounded by a beautiful public park. And we ended the day with a visit to Freetown Christiania (see below). That made for a long and tiring, but very interesting, day.

Rosenborg Castle

Rosenborg Castle (Rosenborg Slot) was built by King Christian IV as a summer residence in 1606, then expanded to its present size in 1624. Some of Christian IV’s possessions, including his private writing cabinet (and his bathroom) are on display. And everything on display can only be described as magnificently opulent.

The Knight’s Hall contains the coronation throne, queens throne, three life-size silver lions, and twelve tapestries from the 17^th century. The Danish Crown Jewels can be viewed in the castle basement (which has a separate entrance from the main castle).

The King’s Garden (Kongens Have), also known as the Castle Garden, is located adjacent to the castle. See the Parks and Natural Areas section below.

Christiansborg Palace

The original Christiansborg Palace (Christiansborg Slot) was completed in 1745. A fire in 1794 nearly destroyed the structure, which was then replaced by the second palace, completed in 1828.

In 1849, when Denmark became a constitutional monarchy, the first Danish Parliament met in the south wing of the palace. The only king to use the second palace as a residence was Frederick VII, from 1852 to 1863.

The second palace also burned, in 1884. Construction of the current palace was completed in 1928 and is the seat of the current Danish Parliament, as well as the Danish Supreme Court and the office of the Prime Minister, making it the seat of all three branches of the Danish government.

Amalienborg Museum

The Amalienborg Museum is located in one of the four buildings making up Amalienborg Palace. The palaces surround a central courtyard with a statue of King Frederik V at its center. The structures were originally the homes of four noble families, but were purchased by the Danish royal family after the original Christiansborg Palace burned in 1794. The palace has been the official residence of the royal family ever since.

King’s Garden (Kongens Have), Copenhagen

Parks and Natural Areas

Copenhagen is a beautiful city with many parks and natural areas. The largest park in the central city is Kongens Have, adjacent to Rosenborg Castle.

The park has large open areas, shaded lanes lined with trees, a formal rose garden, and a children’s playground. There is also a monument to Hans Christian Andersen, and a café (the Herkules Pavillon Café).

Children’s playground, Kongens Have, Copenhagen

There are many other parks that we did not have time to explore, including Faelledparken, about a mile north of Rosenborg Castle, and Amager Faelled, on Amager Island about a mile south of the city center.

Art and Architecture

Statues, monuments, and many other public art exhibits are scattered throughout the city center. And there are many art museums and galleries in the old city, including the Nicolaj Art Gallery and the Ny Carlesberg Glyptotek.

I’m a big fan of architecture in general and Copenhagen has a wide range of building styles from centuries old churches to ultra-modern office buildings. The images above are only a tiny slice of what you can find in the city center.

The Little Mermaid

Edvard Eriksen’s iconic bronze sculpture is one of the top tourist attractions in Copenhagen and not to be missed. Although not imposing (the sculpture is less than five feet tall), it has been captivating people ever since its creation in 1913.

The Little Mermaid sculpture was inspired by the 19^th century Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale of the same name. It was commissioned by Carl Jacobsen, son of the founder of Carlsberg, one of the ten largest beer brewers in the world. He was inspired by a ballet based on the fairy tale and wanted the ballerina, Ellen Price, to model for the sculpture, but she refused to pose nude. The model was actually Ericksen’s wife, Eline Ericksen.

Nyhavn

Another iconic location in Copenhagen is Nyhavn, where brightly colored buildings house cafes, pubs, and townhouses along both sides of a canal. Hans Christian Andersen lived and wrote in three different houses in Nyhavn. Built in the 17^th century, Nyhavn (“new harbor”) was once home to sailors, merchants, taverns, and bordellos. Today it a mecca for tourists.

In summer, Nyhavn is a great place to get a beer and relax in an outdoor café, as long as you don’t mind the throngs of tourists that flock there. In winter, it is home to a Christmas Market that is something of a tourist attraction of its own.

Freetown Christiania

In 1971, counter-culture journalist Jacob Ludvigsen declared a former military barracks on Amager Island “open” and Freetown Christiania (more often just called Christiania) was born. Christiania was, and still is, an intentional community akin to a hippie commune.

One of Christiania’s most contentious (mostly to outsiders, but also to a lesser extent to Christiania residents) provisions was open tolerance to drug use and drug dealing. Aptly named Pusher Street became home to open stalls selling cannabis, but hard drugs were only slightly less publicly sold. The cannabis stalls were removed by the residents and Pusher Street was dug up in 2016 after two police officers and a citizen were shot by a cannabis dealer. Cannabis is still widely tolerated, but hard drugs are not.

Ownership of the former barracks was bandied about in Danish courts until the Danish Supreme Court ruled that the state was still the ultimate land owner. But Copenhagen and Christiania leaders came to an agreement that resulted in the newly created Foundation Freetown Christiania acquiring 19 of the 84 acres of the former barracks. Residents of Christiania went from squatters to the legal owners in 2012.

Today, Christiania is one of the top five tourist attractions in Copenhagen. It is home to many artists, and public art installation are common, including one of Thomas Dambo’s giant troll sculptures. Other troll sculptures of his can be found around the world, including one in Portland, only a few miles from my home. The Christiania Art Gallery is also a place you might want to visit. (Bring Danish krone if you might want to buy anything – they don’t accept Euros or US dollars). There are also numerous shops and cafes, including Café Nemoland.

Tivoli Gardens

Tivoli Gardens (often referred to as just Tivoli) is an amusement park located in the middle of Copenhagen with 30 different rides and many other attractions. It opened in 1843 and has been in continuous operation ever since, 183 years and counting. It is the second oldest continuously operated amusement park in the world, second only to the Dyrehavsbakken (or simply Bakken), which opened to the public in 1756 and is also located in Denmark, not far from Copenhagen. We did not visit Tivoli, but if you have young children or are just into thrill rides, it might be a must see attraction. It gets somewhat mixed reviews, though. Most of the criticism seems to be due to the cost of admission. An entrance and ride pass (for ages eight and up) currently costs about $60. Children 3-7 get in for half price and children under three get in free.

Practical Matters

Today, Copenhagen is a sprawling metropolis, but the old town section of the city is compact and walkable. Getting around is easy, either on foot or by the efficient, safe, and quick Metro train system or municipal buses. Our hotel was several miles from the city center, but only about a five minute walk to a Metro station and a 15 minute train ride away from the old town center.

Denmark is part of the European Union but uses its own currency, the Danish krone. Euros are accepted most places, though, and even American dollars in some places. And almost every place accepts credit cards.

Pubs and cafes are found everywhere in the city center, especially along the waterfront and in other touristy areas. You don’t really need a guidebook. Menus in most cafes and restaurants are printed in both Danish and English, some in English only. And almost everyone speaks passable English, so if you have any questions just ask your server. Servers are paid a living wage, so tipping is optional, but appreciated. At some of the cafes and pubs that we ate it wasn’t even an option, but where it is 10% is sufficient.

There are many hotels and other accommodations available in downtown Copenhagen. Prices (including taxes and fees) for hotels generally start at about $350 per night on summer weekends, but can be much higher depending on location and degree of luxury desired. Our hotel, several miles from the city center, was a little over $300 per night and was more than adequate.

Conclusion

Copenhagen’s a fascinating place, especially if you love to be on the water, with a long and interesting history, friendly and welcoming people, beautiful art, architecture, and parks, and far more to see than we could in the three days we had there. A week (or two) would have been better. But our visit was long enough to fall in love with the city and its people. I heartily recommend that, if you can, you should visit at least once in your life. It’s really a magnificent city.

Posted September 20, 2026

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Galway and Western Ireland

By Alan K. Lee

Introduction

My wife and I had the pleasure of visiting Ireland in the summer of 2025. We split our time between Dublin and Galway and Western Ireland. Galway is an easy train ride or drive from Dublin and makes a good base from which to explore the west coast of Ireland. The Cliffs of Moher (Ireland’s number one tourist attraction), the Aran Islands, the Burren, and Connemara are all easily accessible from Galway by car. Several tour companies (e.g. Galway Tour Company and Lally Tours) offer day tours to all four for those visitors (like my wife and I) that choose not to rent a car.

History and Culture

Galway and Western Ireland are culturally closer to their Celtic (and Norman) roots than the more cosmopolitan and English influenced east coast. Most of the population has deep Celtic roots. A significant percentage of the population speaks Gaelic (or Irish as the British call it) on a regular basis, although everyone speaks English as well, and road signs are in both English and Gaelic. The city of Galway is a bit of an exception in that it was conquered by the Normans in the 13^th century and early in its history attempted to keep the Celts out of the city entirely. And about a quarter of the residents of Galway were born outside of Ireland, as is the case in Dublin.

The residents of Connemara, to the north of Galway, and the Aran Islands and the Burren, to the southwest, are more traditionally Irish than Galwegians. While we didn’t get to really explore the culture of Connemara, the Burren, and the Aran Islands in our brief visits, we did get at least a taste of the culture from our tour guides. And, as in both Dublin and Galway, the locals that we did interact with were friendly and welcoming.

Galway

Galway grew up around a castle that was built by the King of Connacht in 1124. One hundred years later, the city came under Norman rule. In the Middle Ages, fourteen merchant families (the “Tribes of Galway”) ruled the city, which became an important trading port. Twelve of the fourteen “tribes” were of Norman descent and two were Irish. Today, Galway is the fourth largest city in the Republic of Ireland, with a population of about 85,000.

While we primarily used Galway as a jumping off point for tours of the Burren, one of the Aran Islands, the Cliffs of Moher, and Connemara, we also had some time to explore the city. Eyre (pronounced “air”) Square is the heart of Galway. It’s surrounded by restaurants and shops, the train station is next door, and it hosts festivals and concerts throughout the year. There was an arts and crafts festival going on while we were there. We started each day with breakfast at one of the restaurants bordering the square (try Esquires Organic Coffee Company). All of our tours started from near the square (aka John F. Kennedy Park).

From the northwest corner of Eyre Square, William Street takes you into the Latin Quarter, a lively (and crowded) area with plenty of shops, restaurants, pubs, and attractions, like Lynch’s Castle. William Street becomes the well-named Shop Street after a few blocks, then High Street, and finally Quay Street before reaching the River Corrib and Wolfe Tone Bridge. Turning left just before the bridge brings you to the Spanish Arch, one of the two remaining sections of the original city wall. Walk through the arch to get to Galway City Museum.

There is a nice walking path upstream along the east bank of the River Corrib that will take you from Wolfe Tone Bridge to the Bridge of Hope, a pedestrian and cycling bridge leading to Galway Cathedral. Just northwest of the cathedral, we wandered through the south campus of Galway University, then back across the Corrib and past the ruins of Terryland Castle before returning to our Airbnb.

No visit to Galway is complete without a visit to an Irish pub, and there is a long list to choose from in downtown Galway, particularly in the Latin Quarter. We sampled a few pints at Jack J. Foley’s across the street from Eyre Square, Blake’s Bar on Eglington Street, a couple of blocks from the square, and Seven Bridgestreet, which is both its name and its address.

French brass band Fanfare Piston performing in the Latin Quarter, Galway

Music is also a big part of Galwegian culture. You can find street musicians performing during the day in downtown Galway and many, if not most, of the downtown pubs feature traditional Irish music in the evening.

Beach at An Tra, Innisheer, Aran Islands

The Aran Islands

The day after arriving in Galway, we took a bus tour through the Burren to the small town of Doolin, where we boarded a ferry that took us to the nearest of the Aran Islands, Inisheer (or Inis Oirr in Gaelic). Inisheer is the smallest of the three islands, Inishmaan (Inis Meain) and Inishmore (Inis Mor) being the others.

Village of An Tra, Innisheer, Aran Islands

After getting off the ferry, we explored the town (An Tra) and the shoreline for a while, then my wife hiked up to the ruins of O’Brien’s Castle. I didn’t feel like making the climb, so I hung out on the beach and explored the town some more.

When we rendezvoused an hour or so later, we had a little more time to wander around before boarding the ferry again, but we really didn’t have enough time on the island to get more than just a glimpse. It’s a beautiful place and I wish we had more time to spend there.

The Cliffs of Moher

The ferry returning to Doolin from Inisheer takes a detour to cruise along the base of the Cliffs of Moher. The nearly vertical cliffs range from 400 to 700 feet in height and the view from the water is truly spectacular – one of the highlights of our visit to Ireland.

Back in Doolin, our tour group had lunch at McGann’s Pub, then we bused to the top of the cliffs, giving us an entirely different perspective. We hiked the trail to the north for about three quarters of a mile along the very edge of the cliffs, past O’Brien’s Tower, with awesome views all along the way. We even got a little bit of sunshine while there.

The next day, we took another tour through the Burren (see below) that took us to the top of the cliffs for a second time. We booked both tours in hopes that the weather would be good on at least one of the days. The weather wasn’t as good on our second visit as the previous day, so we just did the short hike along the cliff tops to the south that we hadn’t done, then went to the visitor center (well worth spending some time there) and a gift shop before having to return to the bus.

The Cliffs of Moher are the most popular tourist destination in all of Ireland for good reason. About 1.5 million people visit every year. In the summer, you can expect to be sharing the view from the top with several thousand other people at any given time. But that doesn’t detract from the experience very much. If you have only one day in the area, though, take the ferry to Inisheer and the return trip along the base of the cliffs. Even on a rainy day, it will be awesome.

The Burren

The Burren, southwest of Galway, is a land of otherworldly beauty. Much of the land is bare rock, ancient limestone hills with little or no vegetation. It’s not hard to imagine that you have gone back in time a hundred million years and are walking the surface of a more primeval Earth. The limestone was, in fact, formed from sediments laid down in a tropical sea more than 300 million years ago. It’s also not hard to imagine that you have traveled to another planet entirely.

The Burren is also the home of an ancient Celtic culture that dates back 6000 years. The Burren today is a place of tradition, music, the land, and great local food. Our tour hardly touched on all of that, but was still an enjoyable and worthwhile outing.

Our tour through the Burren stopped at only a few places other than the Cliffs of Moher, but was definitely worth doing. We first stopped (briefly) at Dunguaire Castle.

Our second stop was at Aillwee Cave. It’s not the most spectacular cave that I have toured, but the 45 minute guided tour was interesting. There’s also more going on there (officially the Aillwee Burren Experience), including a birds of prey and falconry exhibit and a farm shop specializing in local produced cheeses, neither of which we had time to experience.

After our visit to the top of the Cliffs of Moher, our group had lunch at a different pub in the Doolin area (O’Donohue’s), and made a stop along Galway Bay where the limestone bedrock is exposed, as it is in many places throughout the Burren.

Connemara and Kylemore Abbey

Connemara, the region northwest of Galway, is often described as the “authentic” Ireland. Whether that is an accurate description or not, tradition and history are clearly important in the region. Gaelic is spoken by many of the residents as their primary language. Road signs are in both Gaelic and English. And what we saw in Connemara is what I envisioned when I thought of the Irish countryside.

Our tour’s first stop was the crossroads community of Leeane (Leenaun). The town has a couple of restaurants, a pub, several hotels and inns, and the Connemara Sheep and Wool Center, which is actually worth checking out if you’re in the vicinity.

Leenane is located near the head of Killary Fjord, a 9½ mile long inlet of the Atlantic Ocean. It’s scenic enough, but bears little resemblance to the fjords of Norway or Alaska.

From Killary Fjord, the tour took us to Kylemore Abbey. Originally called Kylemore Castle, it was built as a private residence by Mitchell Henry, a wealthy English businessman, after he and his wife Margaret honeymooned in Connemara.

The castle was completed in 1871, has 70 rooms, 33 bedrooms, four bathrooms, and 40,000 square feet of living space. Unfortunately, Margaret Henry died in 1874 while on a trip to Egypt. Mitchell Henry built a church and mausoleum on the estate grounds to honor his late wife, but didn’t spend much time at Kylemore after her death. Mitchell Henry died in 1910 and is buried along with his wife in the mausoleum. In 1920, the castle was purchased by the Irish Benedictine Nuns and became Kylemore Abbey. From 1923 to 2010, the nuns ran a girls boarding school and a day school for local girls. The nuns still own and live on the estate grounds.

Today, tourism supports the nuns, and the abbey is a bit of a tourist trap, although an impressive one. A walled Victorian garden is located on the estate, to the west of the abbey. It’s about a 15 minute walk or a five minute shuttle bus ride from the abbey. The gothic church built by Mitchell Henry is a seven or eight minute walk to the east of the abbey. It is also open to the public.

From Kylemore Abbey, our tour returned to Galway, with one stop to explore a peat bog, which was actually fairly interesting, and another along Galway Bay in the western suburbs of Galway.

Conclusion

The Cliffs of Moher, the Aran Islands, the Burren, Connemara, and the city of Galway are all well worth visiting. All can be seen in a short four or five day visit like we did, but I don’t think you’d run out of worthwhile things to see and do in a ten day or even two week visit. There’s a lot in Galway and Western Ireland for the traveler, whether it’s the history, the food, the music, the land, or whatever else brings you there.

Posted May 28, 2026

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Dublin, Ireland

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

Dublin is the capital, largest city, and cultural hub of the Republic of Ireland. It is also the most diverse city in Ireland with more than 25% of the population having been born outside of Ireland. And it is the most visited city in Ireland. If you travel there in the summer, as my wife and I recently did, you will probably find that there are more tourists than locals walking the streets and populating the pubs, museums, parks, and galleries of the city. But don’t let that dissuade you from visiting. Even in high season, Dublin is well worth visiting. And its’s not hard to get away from the more touristy parts of the city and get a taste of what everyday life in Dublin is like.

History

There are a number of themes that run through the culture of Dublin. One of those is history. History is central to all aspects of life in Dublin, and there is plenty of history to be found there. The city of Dublin is over a thousand years old and the area has been inhabited for many millennia. The Vikings established a settlement in the Dublin area in 841 CE, but an archaeological dig in the Temple Bar area uncovered evidence of an Anglo-Saxon settlement that predated the arrival of the Vikings.

The Norman invasion of Ireland in the 12^th century established English rule of Dublin. Dublin Castle was built in 1204 on orders of King John of England and became the center of power of the English ruled portion of Ireland. (It wasn’t until the 16^th century that all of Ireland came under English rule).

Dublin grew to be the city it is today during the 18^th century. At one point it was the second largest city in the British Empire and the fifth largest in Europe. Dublin suffered a decline in the 19^th century, but rebounded in the mid-20^th century, and even more so in the last couple of decades. Today the city is vibrant and alive. The city itself has a population of about 600,000, County Dublin’s population is about 1.5 million, and the Greater Dublin area counts more than two million people – similar in size to Portland, Oregon.

Cell window looking out on a courtyard, Kilmainham Gaol

Site of the execution of Easter Rising leaders in 1916

The 20th century was marked by conflict, first between those seeking independence from Great Britain and those opposed, and later between Catholic nationalists and Protestant traditionalists, colloquially known as the Troubles. The first led to the Easter Rising rebellion in 1916 and then the Irish Civil War, which resulted in the establishment of the Irish Republic in 1923. The Troubles were mostly centered in Northern Ireland, and there are still segregated sections of the cities there. But the Troubles also affected Dublin to an extent. There were several bombings in the city during that time. Today, peace reigns, and the border between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland is completely open, even after Brexit. We took a bus tour from Dublin to Belfast during our visit and the border was hardly marked by even a sign.

St. Augustine and St. John the Baptist Catholic Church

Churches and Cathedrals

In addition to history, religion is also central to life in Dublin, perhaps a bit less than elsewhere in Ireland but it is still a majority Catholic city, and churches and cathedrals are found throughout the city. Neither my wife nor I are church goers, but we always visit the local churches and cathedrals when in Europe, for the incredible architecture and artworks, if nothing else.

In the center of the city, Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick’s Cathedral (pictured in the featured image at the top of this post) are must see attractions.

We also spent some time exploring St. Ann’s Church, between Trinity College and St. Stephan’s Green, St. Augustine & St. John the Baptist Church, as well as a few smaller churches in our wanderings outside of the main downtown area.

Painting of Bono, National Gallery of Ireland

Museums, Galleries, and Public Art

Dublin is a city of art. There are many museums, galleries, and public artworks to be found in the city center. And since my wife and I are interested in both art and history, we spent much of our time in Dublin’s various museums and galleries.

National Museum of Ireland (Archaeology)

The National Museum of Ireland has three branches in Dublin, one featuring local archaeologic finds (on Kildare Street in downtown), one featuring decorative arts and history (at Collins Barracks just west of downtown on the north bank of the River Liffey), and another (colloquially known as the “dead zoo lab”) dedicated to natural history, located adjacent to Collins Barracks. Entry to all three is free. The archaeology museum is huge and impressive, to say the least. You could probably spend a whole day there and not see it all. Admission to all three museums is free.

Sculptures and other public artworks dot the central city, perhaps none more iconic than the statue of Molly Malone. The song “Molly Malone” has been Dublin’s unofficial anthem for more than a century. Tourists have taken to rubbing the statue’s bosom for good luck, though locals are generally opposed to that practice and city officials plan to install plantings around the statue to keep tourists away from the sculpture. I kept my hands to myself. Another iconic sculpture is that of Luke Kelly, a folk musician and founding member of the band The Dubliners, who died at the age of 43 in 1984.

Painting of the Irish Coast, National Gallery of Ireland

The National Gallery of Ireland, located in the central part of the city near Trinity College and Merrion Square Park, houses more than 14,000 artworks. The gallery was opened in 1864 and has been expanded several times, most recently in the 1960s. Like the National Museums, admission to the National Gallery is free.

The Irish Museum of Modern Art, located on the west edge of downtown not far from the railroad station, opened in 1991, but the building it occupies is much older. The building was once the Royal Hospital Kilmainham and dates to the 17^th century. The museum houses 3500 works of contemporary art. Again, admission is free.

Kilmainham Gaol

A tree-lined lane takes you from the Irish Museum of Modern Art to the Kilmainham Gaol (“gaol” being the British and Irish spelling of “jail”), which was built in the late 1700s as the County Dublin jail. It is perhaps best remembered as the site of the execution of the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising (including one who was transported from a hospital to the goal, tied to a chair because he was too injured to stand on his own, and shot by firing squad). The Easter Rising eventually led to the Irish Civil War and independence from the United Kingdom in 1923. Kilmainham Gaol was closed in 1929 and became a museum in the 1930s.

Today, Kilmainham Gaol is one of Dublin’s top tourist attractions. If you plan to visit, it’s best to purchase tickets online in advance. We didn’t, and when we inquired at the entrance, we were told that we would have to wait several hours for the next available tour. However, we were told to return in half an hour, and were given an abbreviated tour at no cost. (Adult admission for the full tour is €8). We didn’t see the whole facility, but the tour we got was interesting and informative.

Parks

Dublin is a beautiful city, both in terms of its architecture and the natural beauty that can be found in the more than 300 parks in the city. We visited a number of parks, including Croppies Acre Memorial Park near Collins Barracks, St. Patrick’s Park at St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Merrion Square Park, St. Steven’s Green (the largest park in the central Dublin area), Iveagh Gardens, and Blessington Basin Park, a former water reservoir converted into a city park.

Trinity College and the Book of Kells

Trinity College was established as a Protestant institution in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I in her attempt to make Dublin a Protestant City. For centuries, Trinity College was an institution of the Protestant ruling elite. While Catholics were not prevented from attending the college, they had to take an oath objectionable to Catholics to graduate. That requirement was not lifted until 1793, and even then Catholics were not allowed to be Fellows or members of the faculty, and scholarships were restricted to Protestants only.

Notable alumni of Trinity College include Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett, Jonathan Swift, and Bram Stoker, author of Dracula. (I always thought of Bram Stoker as being Eastern European, but he was in fact Irish. His name was actually Abraham Stoker.)

Book of Kells Folio 32v, sourced from Wikimedia Commons

Trinity College is perhaps the best known for the majestic Book of Kells, the spectacularly illustrated Celtic Gospel that is housed in the Trinity College Library. But Trinity College is anything but stuck in the past. Today, Trinity College is a modern institution with an enrollment of approximately 22,000 students and one of the leading educational institutions in Europe.

While we did not take the Book of Kells Experience tour, it will be on our agenda if we ever return to Dublin. And, as I discovered after we had already booked our accommodations, you can stay on campus if you visit during the summer. A room with a private bathroom in the Printing House, for example, can be rented for under €200 per night. That would be quite an experience.

Temple Bar and Guinness

And then there are the pubs. Ireland is known for both their whiskey and, of course, for Guinness. The Guinness Storehouse is the top tourist attraction in Dublin and second most popular in the country, behind only the Cliffs of Moher (which I’ll cover in a future post).

Guinness has been brewing beer in Dublin since 1759, when the founders signed a 9000-year lease for the property that now houses the oddly entertaining (and informative) Guinness Storehouse, which was originally a fermentation plant in the heart of the St. James Gate brewery complex. Today, it is a seven-story showcase of Guinness beer and the history of Guinness Brewing. Your €30 entry ticket also gets you a free pint at the glass walled Gravity Bar on top of the structure that has a 360⁰ view of the city. Good luck finding a table, though. It took us a while.

And about a mile to the east, the Temple Bar neighborhood, on the south bank of the River Liffey, is the nightlife center of Dublin, akin to Bourbon Street in New Orleans or Duval Street in Key West. You won’t find many locals in any of the Temple Bar pubs in high season, except for the bartenders, but it’s wildly entertaining in the evening, even early in the evening when we were there.

Many of the pubs in Temple Bar have “Temple” as part of their name, but The Temple Bar is probably the most popular. And the most crowded. When we were there early on a Friday evening, we could barely get in the door, much less get a table or get served. So, we just crowded our way in to say we had been there and left to find a less crowded place to get a pint and get some food. We landed at The Mercantile Bar and Restaurant on Dame Street – good food and, of course, good beer, and not crowded.

Temple Bar isn’t a truly Irish experience, but get even a little way off the beaten track and you can find a more authentic Irish Pub without much difficulty. Ryan’s, just west of Iveagh Gardens and St. Steven’s Green on Camden Street Lower, was one of two pubs that we took refuge from thunderstorms in on our last day in Dublin. I’m not sure what percentage of the patrons were locals, but they’ve been serving beer there since 1882. You can find a similar bar almost anywhere in Dublin.

Sports

Sports are an important aspect of Irish culture, although probably not to the traveler, so I won’t get into that here except for one slightly weird note on our visit. While exploring Trinity College, we came across a marching band, complete with cheerleaders, rehearsing on an athletic field. I thought it odd that Trinity College would have such a stereotypically American thing, but didn’t give it much more thought. But a few hours later we came across the same group performing in a nearby square. Turns out that it wasn’t the Trinity College Band, it was the Kansas State University Band. They were there because Kansas State and Iowa State were opening the college football season the next day – in Dublin. We came 5000 miles to immerse ourselves in Irish culture and smacked into an outbreak of pure Americana. Small world, I guess.

Conclusion

We had a great time on our visit, and while our interests and your interests may not be the same, I think I can truthfully say that you will find Dublin to be an interesting and worthwhile place to visit, regardless of where your interests lie. It’s a cliché to say that there’s something there for everyone to enjoy, but I think Dublin is one place where it may literally be true. If a visit to Dublin is on your bucket list, go sooner rather than later. And if it’s not already, you should consider adding it. You won’t be disappointed.

Reflecting pond at a building near the Guinness Storehouse

Posted November 3, 2025

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except the Book of Kells photo

Salt Spring Island, British Columbia

by Alan K. Lee

British Columbia’s Gulf Islands are located between the southeastern coast of Vancouver Island and the the Canadian mainland. The largest, most populated, and most accessible of the Gulf Islands is Salt Spring Island. Ganges, on Salt Spring, is the commercial and cultural heart of the Southern Gulf Islands. It is the largest (and really the only) town in the Gulf Islands.

The Gulf Islands Guide has a description of each island and good information on events and accommodations in the Islands. Other useful websites include Gulf Islands Tourism, and Salt Spring Island.org.

Almost all visitors to Salt Spring Island arrive via one of the B.C. ferries that serve the island. Ferries travel from the Tsawwassen terminal south of Vancouver to Long Harbor, near Ganges, and from Schwartz Bay north of Victoria to Fulford Harbor on the southern end of Salt Spring. There is also a ferry from Crofton, on Vancouver Island, to Vesuvius on the northwest shore of Salt Spring. Check the B.C. Ferries website for schedules and rates. If you’re traveling from Tsawwassen, book a reservation well in advance during the summer. Ferries from Schwartz Bay and Crofton are first come, first served, but run frequently.

There are no commercial flights to Salt Spring Island. There are float plane companies that will take you to the islands, though. And the Victoria airport is only a few miles from the Schwartz Bay ferry terminal, so flying to Victoria and renting a car is a good option if driving is not feasible.

If you or one of your fellow travelers is an experienced boater or sailor, you can charter a sailboat or power boat and explore the islands by sea. Full-service marinas are located at Sidney on Vancouver Island, and in Ganges. Experience is essential and charter companies require proof of competence, and it is fairly expensive. But if you have the necessary qualifications and can afford it, this is an excellent way to explore the Islands. We have done this, and I can personally recommend it.

There are a wide variety of accommodations available on Salt Spring, from full-service resorts and hotels to traditional B&Bs to single rooms available through Airbnb. One place that I can personally recommend is Spindrift Oceanfront Cottages near the Long Harbor ferry terminal. Spindrift is located at the end of a peninsula in Ganges Harbor in a park-like setting. It has a variety of cottages and two sand beaches perfect for launching kayaks. If you’re a kayaker, this is a perfect jumping off point. Ganges Harbor and its numerous islands are well worth exploring. Prevost Island, a short paddle to the southeast of Ganges Harbor is also worth a visit. A portion of Prevost is set aside as part of the Gulf Islands National Park.

The Ganges area has several restaurants and cafes that I can recommend. For a good breakfast in a unique setting, try the Tree House Cafe in downtown Ganges. Another good place to start your day is Salt Spring Coffee-Ganges Cafe. Salt Spring Inn offers a fine dining experience, also in downtown Ganges. Salt Spring Wild Cider House, just west of Ganges, offers gourmet farm-to-table dinners at a reasonable price. Moby’s Pub, a local hangout, has an upscale pub food menu and a good selection of craft beers. And, if you want a true local experience, you will probably not see another tourist in the well-named The Local Pub, near the marina in Ganges.

Getting around the island is easiest if you have a car, but there is a bus system that will get you around if you don’t. And there is a unique Car Stop system, sort of an organized hitchhiking system. Look for the Car Stop signs and stick out your thumb. Someone will stop to give you a ride. Drivers can be selective about who they pick up, and of course hitchhikers can be equally selective about whose car they get into. But it’s generally safe, and it’s free. It also a unique way to get to know some of the locals.

There are many places worth exploring on Salt Spring, including four Provincial Parks. Mount Maxwell Provincial Park on the west side of the island provides spectacular views of Mount Bruce to the south and west across Saanich Inlet to Vancouver Island. You can drive to the summit, but when we were last there (summer 2024) the last mile or so of the road required a high-clearance vehicle with four wheel drive. There are also hiking and mountain bike trails for the more adventurous.

Ruckle Provincial Park on the southeast coast of the island has hiking trails that take you along the shore of Swanson Channel, as well as a campground with eight RV sites (no hookups) and 78 walk in tent sites. There are also good hiking trails at Mt. Erskine Provincial Park, just west of Ganges. And Burgoyne Bay Provincial Park is located at the base of Mount Maxwell on Saanich Inlet.

Other places on the island worth visiting include St. Mary’s Lake and the small community of Vesuvius. There are also a number of beaches that have public access on the north end of the island.

Salt Spring has an active arts community, with numerous galleries and studios in Ganges and scattered across the island. Many of the studios are open to visitors in the summer. A Farmer’s Market is held in Ganges every Saturday during the summer, where you can sample artisanal cheeses and locally grown produce. Arts, crafts, and home and garden products are also available.

If you are a cheese lover, you’ll want to visit Salt Spring Island Cheese. Their farm is located on Reynolds Road, just off of the road leading to Ruckle Park. There you can not only sample and purchase their artisanal cheeses, but also see the whole cheese making operation. You can also find their cheeses at the Farmer’s Market in Ganges and in many grocery stores in B.C. and as far away as Toronto. If you are a wine lover, stop at Salt Spring Vineyards and Tasting Room, and Garry Oaks Estate Winery, both located south of Ganges on Fulford-Ganges Road.

Southey Point with the Secretary Islands in the distance

Salt Spring Island is just a short jaunt from Victoria and can be visited as a day-trip if you’re exploring Victoria, but you can also spend a week on the island without running out of things to see and do. And you can use Salt Spring as a base to explore the other Gulf Islands. My wife and I have visited Salt Spring Island many times over the years, and on each visit we have discovered new places to see and new things to do. I’m sure our most recent visit will not be our last.

Posted January 31, 2025

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Florence, Oregon

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

Florence, Oregon (not to be confused with Florence, Italy) is a small town on Oregon’s central coast. The town lies on the estuary of the Siuslaw River, a few miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. Historically, Florence’s economy centered around commercial fishing and the timber industry, but today sport fishing and general tourism are more important. Florence has a vibrant old town area, many festivals and parks, and access to miles of ocean beach. The surrounding area also has many tourist draws, most prominently the 31,500-acre Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area that runs for forty miles along the coast from the Siuslaw River to Coos Bay.

The Town

I have to confess that for years Florence was, to me, just a not terribly attractive town that you passed through to get to the lakes, streams, beaches, headlands, and dunes that were the real attractions of the area. It wasn’t until a few years ago that I discovered the charms of the old town waterfront area, the many quality eating establishments to be found in the town, and the parks and other attractions of the town. While the surrounding areas are still the main draw, Florence makes an attractive base to explore the area and has plenty of attractions of its own.

The old town area of Florence lies along the shore of the Siuslaw River. Although not large, the area has many restaurants and cafes and numerous small hotels and guest houses. There is a marina and an RV park, trails along the river, and a number of public art works. On my last visit, the main old town street was closed to vehicle traffic one evening to facilitate a giant block party that drew a huge crowd, with live music and many food vendors that made for a very festive evening.

Art lovers will want to check out the Blue Heron Gallery and Backstreet Gallery, both in the old town area. For history buffs, the Siuslaw Pioneer Museum offers “a taste of life as it was 150 years ago.”

Quality dining in the old town can be found at Waterfront Depot, Nosh Eatery, Maple Street Bistro, 1285 Restobar, and the Firehouse. Outside of old town, Venny’s Café on Hwy 101 gets good reviews and Fresh Harvest Café, farther north on 101, is a good place to get breakfast or lunch. Brew pubs worth checking out include Beachcomber Pub and Homegrown Public House, both in the old town.

You might want to try the sport of sandboarding, especially if you are a family with active kids. Think snowboarding but on the dunes not the mountain slopes. Sand Master Park, just north of Fred Meyer in the north end of town, bills itself as the world’s first sandboarding park. You can get lessons, rent sandboards, and try out the sport onsite on 200 acres of dunes.

If you enjoy gambling, Three Rivers Casino Resort, just off Hwy 126 about a mile east of Hwy 101, offers plenty of opportunities to strike it rich (or not), plus several dining options and frequent live entertainments events. The casino is owned and operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Coos, Lower Umpqua, and Siuslaw Indians. The Tribes also own and operate Ocean Dunes Golf Links, one of two 18-hole courses in Florence, the other being Florence Golf Links (formerly known as Sand Pines).

One of the oddities of Florence, Oregon involves an exploding whale. In 1970 a 45-foot sperm whale carcass washed ashore at Florence. The Oregon Highway Division used twenty cases (literally a ton) of dynamite in an attempt to break the carcass into small pieces. The resulting explosion sent pieces of the whale flying as much as 800 feet from the beach. No one was injured but several vehicles were damaged by falling blubber. The KATU-TV news story and video of the event has become something of a cult-classic and continues to be frequently viewed more than half a century later. An exhibit at the Siuslaw Pioneer Museum has bone fragments from the whale and a city park along the riverfront west of Hwy 101 was recently renamed Exploding Whale Park.

The Oregon Dunes

The Oregon Dunes consist of the largest coastal dune field in North America, coastal spruce and pine forest that includes many “tree islands” surrounded by dunes, miles of ocean beaches, and numerous freshwater lakes and wetlands. Outside the boundary of the national recreation area (NRA) there are several state parks and a number of Siuslaw National Forest campgrounds.

Honeyman State Park, about three miles south of Florence, has a large (364 site) campground, dunes access for both hikers and OHVs (Oct-Apr), picnic areas, a children’s playground, restrooms and showers, and two freshwater lakes.

The miles of dunes are a very popular off-highway vehicle (OHV) recreational area. You can rent dune buggies if you don’t have your own, and tours on larger OHVs are also available. About one third of the NRA is open to off-highway vehicles. There are also ample areas within and adjacent to the NRA that are off limits to OHVs that provide a quieter experience for hikers, paddlers, birders, photographers, beachcombers, and other nature lovers.

Fishing and Boating

Fishing for rainbow and cutthroat trout and warm water species like bass and perch are popular activities on the freshwater lakes near Florence. Woahink, Siltcoos, and Tahkenitch Lakes south of Florence are all prime fishing grounds. All have public boat ramps that also give canoers, kayakers and paddleboarders access to the lakes. Cleawox Lake in Honeyman State Park also is a popular paddling spot. The Siuslaw River has both salmon and steelhead runs, and ocean fishing trips can be booked through charter services in Winchester Bay (aka Salmon Harbor) about twenty-five miles south of Florence. A list of local fishing guides can be found on the Port of Siuslaw website.

Area Beaches

The south jetty area has five beach access points and four miles of beach where OHVs are not permitted. Go south on Hwy 101 and turn right onto Sand Dunes Road about a half mile south of the Siuslaw River Bridge. At the north end of town, the north jetty area and Heceta Beach County Park give access to another five miles of ocean beach. There are also many beach access points both north and south of Florence.

Heceta Head

Heceta Head Lighthouse, about ten miles north of Florence, is one of the Oregon coast’s most iconic and most photographed locations. The lighthouse, built in 1893, is 56 feet tall and sits 200 feet above the ocean, making it one of the best whale-watching points on the coast. And the original assistant lightkeeper’s house is now a bed and breakfast inn with six rooms and features a seven-course breakfast menu.

Sea Lion Caves

Located on Sea Lion Point about a mile south of Heceta Head , Sea Lion Caves is a privately owned attraction featuring the largest sea cave in the Americas. The cave (and the surrounding rocky shoreline) is the only mainland rookery of Steller Sea Lions. From the observation deck at the gift shop there is a great view of Heceta Head Lighthouse. From there, a short trail brings you to an elevator that descends over 200 feet to the cave. In winter and spring, you’ll likely see hundreds of sea lions in the huge cave, but in the summer and fall there may not be any sea lions in the cave. They’ll mostly be found on the rocks outside the cave in those months. But the cave itself (about 300 feet across and 125 feet high) is worth the cost of admission.

Cobra lilies, Darlingtonia State Natural Site

Darlingtonia Wayside

A few miles north of Florence at Darlingtonia Wayside (now officially Darlingtonia State Natural Site) you’ll find one of the few places in the Pacific Northwest where cobra lilies (Darlingtonia californica) can be found. These carnivorous plants trap and consume insects that provide the plant with nitrogen and nutrients that they can’t get from the boggy soil. There are restrooms at the parking area and a short boardwalk trail that takes you into the cobra lily’s domain.

Conclusion

Florence, Oregon is a great stopping point on a tour of the 363 miles of Oregon coastline. There’s so much to see and do in the surrounding area and in the town itself that you could easily spend a week in Florence and not run out of things to do and sights to see. I’m looking forward to my next visit, maybe an off-season trip this winter.

And if you’re heading farther down the coast, make sure to stop in Bandon-by-the-sea. Farther south, the southern Oregon coast has spectacular scenery and is as uncrowded and unspoiled as it gets on the Pacific coast.

Posted Dec 2, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Granada and the Alhambra

by Alan K. Lee

Albayzin neighborhood seen from the Alhambra

Introduction

The main reason, and to be honest probably the only reason, that my wife and I visited Granada on our trip to Spain last spring was to tour the Alhambra. The Alhambra is simply magnificent, and almost reason enough by itself to justify the 12,000-mile roundtrip journey that we took. But if we were to do the trip again, I would spend another day or two in Granada because I think we missed a lot by only spending one night there.

History

Like most of Andalusia, Granada has a long and complicated history. The oldest ruins unearthed in the city date to about 650 BCE. In 44 BCE the area became part of the Roman Empire. After the fall of Rome, the Visigoths ruled the area until the Moorish conquest in the 8^th century CE. At that time, Granada was a small community with a mostly Jewish population. As late as the 11^th century, Granada was a Shephardic Jewish state. Later, it was ruled by Berbers from North Africa. From 1232 until 1492 it was ruled by the Nasrid Dynasty. And Granada was the last city to be conquered by Christian forces during the Reconquista, surviving as a Muslim state for more than two centuries after the fall of Cordoba and Seville.

The Alhambra

The Alhambra was built during the Nasrid Dynasty. Construction of the complex began in 1238, two years after nearby Cordoba fell to Christian forces during the Reconquista, and was expanded over the course of more than a century.

Located on Sabika Hill, the Alhambra is a sprawling collection of fortifications and palaces. It was a self-contained community separate from the city of Granada during Nasrid rule, with its own water system that brought water from the mountains to the east rather than having to bring water up from the Darro River in the city below.

As it exists today, the Alhambra is a complicated combination of original construction by the Nasrids, additions made during the Renaissance (most notably the Palace of Charles V) and restorations done during the 19^th and early 20^th century. But it all seems to be of a piece, even if it is not.

We arrived in Granada on a Saturday morning after a short train ride from Cordoba. We didn’t have much time to explore the city before our walking tour of the Alhambra that afternoon.

I hadn’t done much research on Granada or the Alhambra. Sometimes it’s better to arrive without any preconceived notions of what you’re about to see, but I probably should have been better prepared. I didn’t realize how spread out and how big the Alhambra is, how much of a climb it is up from the city, and how long our walking tour would last.

There are a variety of ticket packages available. Advance tickets can be purchased online through the Alhambra y Generalife website. None are particularly expensive – the Alhambra General ticket that includes access to the full complex, including the Generalife (summer palace) is €19 per person – but admission to the Alhambra is limited to 8000 tickets per day and the various tour companies snatch up a large percentage of them as soon as they become available. When I looked into purchasing tickets online, several months in advance of our planned visit in early May, tickets were sold out for the two dates we had available. But I was able to book tickets through one of the tour companies.

Sierra Nevada Mountains viewed from the Alhambra

Our walking tour lasted more than three hours and was about six kilometers (3.7 miles) of walking, much of it uphill. I was pretty tired by the end of it, but what an incredible place! If I were to someday run out of new places to explore (doubtful), the Alhambra would be one of the first places I would revisit.

Walking tours of the Alhambra are available through a number of tour companies. We booked our tour through Play Granada. Our tickets cost US$66 for the two of us, significantly more than individual tickets, but it was money well spent. Our guide had a wealth of information that no guidebook could possibly match, and the skip-the-line tickets meant we did not have to waste time standing in any lines. Play Granada also offers walking, electric bike, and Segway tours of Granada (the Alhambra not included).

Granada Cathedral

The Granada Cathedral is prominent in the view of the city that you get from the Alhambra. Construction of the cathedral (officially the Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica of the Incarnation) began in 1518 on the site of what had been the city’s principal mosque. Construction continued until the cathedral’s completion near the end of the 17^th century.

We didn’t go inside (it was Sunday morning and religious services were being held), but we did wander around for a while and admired the exterior of the cathedral the nearby plazas.

The cathedral is open 10:00-5:45 Mon-Sat and 3:00-5:45 on Sunday. Timed entry (morning or afternoon) tickets are available for €7 per person on the cathedral website.

Other Things to See and Do

If we had another day or two to explore the city, we would have visited the Albayzin (or Albaicin) neighborhood, the old Moorish Quarter located on a hill just north of the Alhambra, toured the interior of the cathedral, maybe taken an e-bike tour of the city, and probably done a more targeted search for great dining experiences (maybe a tapas tour). We’d probably also have done more of what we usually do in a new city, just wander around for a time with no set itinerary and see what we find.

Conclusion

Even the limited time we had to spend in Granada was a wonderful and truly memorable experience. Any trip to Andalusia should feature Granada and the truly magnificent Alhambra.

For more on our visit to Andalusia, check out my posts on Seville and Cordoba. And look for a future post on Ronda, Spain. You might also like my posts on Lisbon, Sintra, and the Algarve.

Posted November 16, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Cordoba, Spain

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

When I was planning for the trip to Spain and Portugal that my wife and I took last spring (2024), Seville got a lot of my attention, as did Granada, Ronda, and Malaga, all for different reasons. Seville is the largest city in Andalusia, with a myriad of reasons to visit. Granada has the magnificent Alhambra. Ronda first got my attention more than a decade ago when I saw a TV travel program about the city. And Malaga is on the Mediterranean coast and has an international airport with many flights to the U.S. But Córdoba wasn’t much on my radar.

I included Córdoba in our itinerary mostly because it’s centrally located, and I couldn’t see a reason to completely bypass it. And I’m glad we didn’t, because Córdoba has a couple of gems that no one visiting Andalusia should miss, the city’s wonderful cathedral (the Mezquita) and the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos (Palace of the Christian Kings).

A Brief History of Córdoba

Córdoba has a long and diverse history. It was first established as a Carthaginian settlement, before being conquered by the Romans in 206 BC. Roman rule of the area lasted more than 600 years. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Córdoba became part of the Byzantine Empire, then was conquered first by the Visigoths and later, early in the 8^th century, by the Moors. Córdoba thrived under Muslim rule, becoming the second largest city in Europe by the 10^th century. In 1236, Ferdinand III drove the Moors out in the Reconquista that brought all of the Iberian Peninsula under Christian rule. Today, little of the Roman city of Corduba remains, but Córdoba retains much of the architectural heritage of the Moors, most notably the Mezquita (meth-KEY-ta) and the Alcazar.

Climate

The climate of Córdoba is notable for its hot and dry summers. It is the hottest city in Europe, with the average high temperature in July and August a scorching 99⁰F (37⁰C). Spring and fall are more moderate and are the best times to visit. Winters are mild with mid-winter highs around 60⁰F (15-16⁰C) and lows around 40⁰F (4-5⁰C). Annual rainfall averages about 22 inches, with 2-4” per month from October to April. We were there in early May and the weather was nearly perfect.

Our Visit

We traveled from Seville to Córdoba by train, only a 45-minute ride on Renfe’s high speed AVE trains. From the train station, we strapped on our backpacks and walked the mile or so to our hotel. I had some concerns about the hotel (La Despensa de la Corredera Hostal), which my wife had booked, but it turned out to be nothing like I associate with a hostel. It was modern, clean, comfortable, and had a private, ensuite bathroom. And it was located at the historic Plaza de la Corredera.

We spent our first afternoon and evening in Córdoba just wandering around, exploring the city, with no set agenda, something we often do when visiting a city for the first time. We walked along the riverfront, stopped at a sidewalk café for a beer, and walked around the exterior of the Mezquita and its Courtyard of the Oranges, which dates to the Moorish occupation, before returning to the Plaza de la Corredera, where we had dinner at one of the many restaurants there. The Plaza caters to tourists, and the food you get in restaurants in such areas is often expensive and mediocre at best, but our dinners were both good and reasonably priced.

The Mezquita

The Mezquita was constructed in 756 as the Great Mosque, possibly on the site of a Catholic Basilica built by the Visigoths. The mosque was expanded several times over the next two centuries, including construction of the minaret in 958. After the Reconquista, the Mezquita was converted to a Christian cathedral, but the name was retained. (Mezquita is Spanish for mosque, and today’s cathedral is also called the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, or Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba).

The Mezquita was modified a number of times after the Reconquista, most notably in the 16^th and early 17^th centuries when the central nave and transept of the Capilla Mayor, which rises in the center of the structure, were built. The minaret was also rebuilt into a Renaissance-style bell tower.

The Mezquita is an attractive structure, but the exterior does not make a grand statement. It’s neither tall nor particularly interesting from an architectural perspective. But the expansive interior, with hundreds of the original mosque’s two-tiered arches supporting the roof, the 13^th century Royal Chapel, the 15^th century Gothic-style nave of the Villaviciosa Chapel, and the Capilla Mayor are all stunning and make for a truly unique structure that blends many architectural styles into a magnificent whole.

General admission tickets to the Mezquita cost 13€, discounts are available to seniors, children, students, large groups, and the disabled, and children under 10 get in free. Tickets are available online from the Mezquita-Catedral Córdoba website or can be purchased at vending machines in the Courtyard of the Oranges on the north side of the cathedral. Entry is free from 8:30 to 9:30 in the morning, Monday through Saturday. Night tours are available for 20€ and entrance to the bell tower is 3€.

The Mezquita was named a UNESCO world heritage site in 1984, and that designation was expanded to the entire historic city center in 1994.

The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos

The site of the Alcazar was the Governor’s Residence during Roman rule and later a Visigoth fortress before Córdoba was conquered by the Moors. The original Alcazar was built by the Moors as the official residence and seat of power of Al-Andalus. After the Reconquista, King Alfonso XI of Castile began construction of the present-day Alcazar, which appears Moorish in style but in fact incorporates little of the original structure. There are four towers, one at each corner of the palace, and several large, enclosed courtyards, as well as two main halls, the Hall of Mosaics, and the Reception Hall. Like the Mezquita, the Alcazar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

We did not initially plan to tour the Alcazar (largely because Rick Steves panned it), but we did want to see the surrounding gardens. We found that entry to the gardens is only through the Alcazar, though, so we stood in line (in the sun) for 15 or 20 minutes to get tickets, then in another line for half an hour to get into the palace. Then we had to wait another 30 minutes to get into the towers. But the Alcazar is interesting enough (though no match for the Real Alcazar in Seville) that it was worth the long waits to see it all.

General admission is 4.91€ (as of October 2024), with a 2.25€ discount for family groups (the official website says “large family members”) and students. Admission is free for Córdoba residents, children under 14, seniors (65+), and the disabled.

You enter the Alcazar through the Courtyard of the Women (Patio de las Mujeres), which gets its name from the fact that this was once the site of a women’s prison. The courtyard is an archaeological site with ruins of the original Alcazar and the remains of part of the Roman structure that predated it.

The four towers give views of the Mezquita to the northeast and the Alcazar Gardens (Jardines del Alcazar) adjacent to the southwest. The Courtyard of the Moriscos (Patio Morisco) is a tree filled rectangular courtyard with small ponds on each end and a central fountain.

While the palace was worth the wait, we spent more time in the gardens than in the palace itself. There have been gardens here since at least the 10^th century, but the present gardens are much more recent.

There are a number of ponds, fountains, and statues scattered throughout the 14-acre gardens. The gardens are dotted with palms and lemon, orange, and cypress trees. There are acres of shrubs and flowering plants. And there are plenty of shaded places to get out of the sun and sit for a while.

Other Attractions

One of the things Córdoba is noted for is its many private and public courtyards, called patios. Many of the residences in Córdoba are built around a central courtyard. Often there is a fountain in the center and the courtyards are often full of colorful flowering plants.

Each May, during the Córdoba Patios Festival, many of the patios are opened to the public for free viewing and competitions are held for traditional courtyard designs (1970s and earlier) and for more modern designs. Some of the patios are open year-round (except July and August) for a small entry fee. The Patios Festival has been designated an Intangible Cultural Heritage event by UNESCO.

There are also streets and alleys throughout the city that feature colorful flower displays, the Calleja de las Flores, near the Mezquita, being probably the best known.

Another feature of the city is the Guadalquivir River and the 2100-year-old Puente Romano (Roman Bridge). Just downstream of the bridge are the ruins of a number of ancient mills. Across the pedestrian only bridge, the Torre de la Calahorra, a medieval gate-tower, has a small museum, and there are walking paths on both sides of the river.

Conclusion

I have no doubt that there are many other sights worth seeing and things worth doing in Córdoba that my wife and I didn’t discover or just didn’t have time to experience during our stay. Seville and Granada may get the spotlight when it comes to tourist destinations in the Andalusia region of Spain, but visitors should not overlook Córdoba. It’s a beautiful, charming, and historic city. I am more than happy that we included it on our itinerary and if you’re planning a trip to Andalusia, you should definitely plan to spend a day or two in Córdoba. I don’t think you will regret it.

Posted October 15, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Seville, Spain

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

Seville, like most European cities, has a long, varied, and very interesting history. It also has a lively and vibrant modern culture. But you can’t begin to describe Seville in a few sentences, there’s just too much to it. You can’t grasp Seville by reading about it. You have to experience it in person to really take it in. And we could only scratch the surface in the short three days that my wife and I had on our recent trip to Portugal and Andalusia. But it was a great three days.

So, if you’re planning a visit, doing your homework is essential. There is so much to see and do in Seville that you can’t do it all, unless you are staying for an extended time. Pick the places to see and things to do that interest you the most. Figure out how much time you need to see or do each and plan accordingly. But also try to leave some time to just wander the streets and see what you find. My wife and I have had many memorable unplanned experiences in our travels by doing just that.

You’ll find that a few things come up over and over in articles about Seville. If you’re a foodie, you’ll want to do a tapas tour. If you’re a fan of dance (or just curious), you’ll want to take in a flamenco performance. If you want to get into the depths of Seville’s culture, you might want to schedule your visit to be able to take in a bullfight, or maybe just visit the Plaza de Toros and its museum. You probably won’t find much emphasis on bullfighting in the guidebooks, but it is (or at least was) a big part of Andalucian culture. We did none of those things, though.

18th century public fountain, central Seville

What we did do was tour the Seville Cathedral and climb the Giralda bell tower, tour the Real Alcazar palace and gardens, and visit the Triana district, the Plaza de España, and the Alameda de Hercules. We also took in the Setas de Sevilla (aka The Mushrooms), the large wooden sculptural canopy that is utterly unique to Seville. And we spent some time just wandering through the old center of the city, as we usually do when visiting European cities.

Seville Cathedral and La Giralda Tower

The first cathedral in Seville was originally a mosque (built between the years 1172 and 1189 during the Moorish occupation of the Iberian Peninsula). When Ferdinand III conquered Seville and brought it back under Christian rule in 1248, the mosque was converted into a Christian cathedral. The present-day Seville Cathedral was built in the 15^th century (on the same site) to replace the converted mosque. Many additions, expansions, and repairs were made over the centuries, extending into the early 20^th century.

The interior of the cathedral is huge. It’s Spain’s largest and tallest cathedral, the third largest church in the world, and the largest gothic structure in the world. Inside, there’s a vast array of paintings, sculptures, and displays. The cathedral website says you should allow 75 minutes to tour the cathedral, but you could easily spend hours. It may not be the most beautiful or most impressive cathedral in Europe, but it’s certainly worth a visit.

Although tickets can be purchased at the cathedral, purchasing online in advance is recommended to avoid the often-long lines at the ticket office. Tickets can be purchased up to seven weeks in advance on the official Seville Cathedral website. Online general admission adult tickets are currently (2024) €12.00 per person. Admission for seniors (65+) and students (13-25) is €6.00. Admission is free for children under 13. Guided tours are available for €20.00 and tours last about 90 minutes. An audio guide is available for €5.00. On site ticket prices are €1.00 more than online prices. Tickets include entry to the Giralda bell tower.

Even with advanced purchase, entry lines can be long, especially at the main entrance on the west side of the cathedral. With tickets in hand, you can also enter through the Court of the Orange Trees (which dates to the Moorish occupation) on the north side, which had a much shorter line. The entrance to the courtyard is adjacent to the Giralda bell tower on the east side of the cathedral.

The 322-foot tall La Giralda bell tower pre-dates the cathedral. The lower portion dates to Roman times. The middle section was added by the Moors and became the mosque’s minaret. The present top section of the tower was added in the 16^th century to replace the original top section, which collapsed in 1356.

Courtyard of the Orange Trees viewed from La Giralda bell tower

The climb to the top of the tower was crowded and slow, and the viewing area was elbow-to-elbow. The views of the city and cathedral exterior are magnificent, but viewing was hampered by the crowd and the fact that the view is through wire mesh covered openings. Smart phone camera lenses are small enough to take unobstructed photos through the mesh openings, though, and there are openings that can be accessed on your way up or down that are less crowded (but with views that aren’t quite as expansive as from the top of the tower).

The Real Alcazar

The Real Alcazar (or Royal Palace) is located just south of the Cathedral. The original palace complex was built by the Moors but little of the original alcazar remains, beyond the name (alcazar is an Arabic word meaning castle or palace). Much of what you see today was constructed in the 13^th and 14^th centuries.

The Real Alcazar consists of a series of interconnected buildings and courtyards (called patios). You enter through the Puerta de Leon (Lion’s Gate) on the northwest corner of the complex. The combination of buildings and patios is even larger in area than the Seville Cathedral. Add in the adjacent gardens and you have a truly huge complex. I think you could easily spend half a day exploring it all.

For my money, the Real Alcazar is more impressive and more beautiful than the Seville Cathedral. The interior and some of the exterior is adorned with incredibly intricate, colorful, and stunningly beautiful tile work. Room after room of it. And in one of the palace’s rooms, you’ll find six huge, amazingly detailed tapestries that are truly impressive. We spent more time (about two hours) in the Real Alcazar than we did in the Seville Cathedral and that doesn’t include the time we spent exploring the palace gardens.

The realalcazarsevilla.com website describes the gardens as “one of the most beautiful and special gardens in the world.” I’m not sure I’d go that far, but they are beautiful, and we spent a good amount of time wandering through them after our tour of the interior.

General admission tickets to the Real Alcazar cost €13.50 for adults and €6.00 for seniors (65+) and students (14-30). Admission is free for children (13 and under) and the disabled. Admission is free for all on Monday evenings (6-7 pm spring and summer, 5-6 pm fall and winter). As with tickets to the cathedral, buying in advance online (go to alcazarsevilla.org) is recommended.

The Plaza de España

The Plaza de España was constructed for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, which was held to make symbolic peace with Spain’s former American colonies. The semi-circular plaza is ringed by architecturally impressive buildings, most of which now hold government offices. A wide canal separates the plaza from the buildings. There are towers at each end of the ring of buildings and a large fountain in the center of the plaza. Admission is free.

The plaza is beautiful at any time of the day (we were there in the afternoon), but it might be at its most stunning after sunset when the plaza, the fountain, and the surrounding structures are all lit up. And you might even be able to catch a free flamenco performance in the plaza. We didn’t explore the adjacent Maria Luisa Park, but from the photos I’ve seen, the park clearly rivals the beauty of the gardens at the Real Alcazar.

The Triana District

Separated from the main downtown area of Seville by the Canal de Alfonso XIII, Triana is a charming neighborhood of shops, cafes, bars, and historic buildings. If you walk across the Triana Bridge (the Puente de Triana, aka the Puente de Isabel II) from downtown Seville, you first come to the Capilla del Carmen and then the remains of the Castle of San Jorge, which was the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition in Seville. The Triana Market (Mercado de Triana), to the north of the bridge, sits within the footprint of the ruined castle. The market is filled with fruit and vegetable stands and small cafes and bars, and it’s a great people watching spot. To the west of the Triana Market, there is a small museum (the Museo de la Ceramica de Triana) dedicated to the tile and pottery shops that Triana was once known for, a few of which are still in operation.

The Calle de San Jacinto is a pedestrian only street leading away from the bridge into the heart of Triana that is lined with cafes and shops, and there is a pedestrian walkway along the shore of the canal that offers views of the Seville Cathedral, the Plaza del Toros, and the Tower of Gold (Torre del Oro). All in all, the Triana district is just an enjoyable and scenic locale that is well worth exploring.

The Alameda de Hercules

The Alameda de Hercules is a long rectangular tree-filled plaza in the northern part of the historic center of Seville. Many cafes and restaurants front the plaza. There is a children’s playground, many shaded benches, and the plaza is bookended by tall columns. The columns at the southern end are topped by statues of Hercules and Julius Caesar. The slightly shorter columns at the north end are topped with stylized lions. The Alameda is known for its vibrant nightlife and the area’s gay friendly neighborhoods. There is a monument in the plaza to the victims of AIDS.

The Mushrooms

The Setas de Sevilla is an undulating canopy in the center of the historic center, north of the Seville Cathedral, that is unlike anything you’ve seen anywhere else in the world. The wooden sculptural canopy is huge, 480 feet long by 220 feet wide by 85 feet high and purportedly the largest wooden structure in the world. It consists of six connected “parasols” resembling mushrooms, hence its common name. (It was originally called the Metropol Parasol and that may still be its official name).

You can walk around under the canopy at street level for no charge. Paid entry (€15.00) gets you into the below ground museum displaying Roman artifacts found during construction, an upper-level restaurant, and walkways that wind through and over the top of the structure that give great views of the surrounding city.

What We Didn’t Do, But Should Have

Basically, what we didn’t do was give ourselves another day or two to more fully explore Seville. Our visit, though, was on a two-week vacation with a packed itinerary that also took us to several sites Portugal (see my posts on Lisbon, Sintra, and Faro and the Algarve) and several more in Andalusia (see future posts on Cordoba, Granada, and Ronda), so we would have had to cut out something that we very much wanted to see.

But if we did have some additional time, we would have taken in the Barrio Santa Cruz district (to the north and east of the Cathedral and the Real Alcazar) and Maria Luisa Park, done a food tour, and visited a few of the city’s many museums and art galleries. But that’s for the next time, if we ever return.

Conclusion

Seville is a wonderful city, full of history, magnificent architecture, friendly people (although anti-tourism sentiment there is growing), charming neighborhoods, quality restaurants and cafes, many museums, and beautiful parks and plazas. It’s known for its cuisine, nightlife, and lively modern culture. I can’t imagine any visitor to Seville coming away disappointed.

Posted August 30, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Faro, Portugal and the Algarve Coast

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

The Algarve consists of the southern coastline of Portugal, from Cabo Sagres in the west to the Spanish border in the east. The international airport in Faro, the largest city in the Algarve, makes the area easily accessible from anywhere in Europe, and the sunny climate and gorgeous coastline combined with the relatively low cost of accommodations and meals make it a wildly popular destination for tourists from colder and wetter, and more expensive, regions of Europe like the U.K.

My wife and I had the pleasure of spending a couple of days in Faro on our trip to Portugal and Spain this past April (2024). We also booked a day tour to the spectacularly beautiful coastal area near Carvoeiro, roughly 40 miles west of Faro. Our time in Faro and the Algarve gave us only a taste of what the area is all about, but its appeal was obvious, even at first glance.

Faro

Faro is situated on the banks of the Rio Formosa Lagoon, which is protected from the open Atlantic by a series of barrier islands. The lagoon was named a National Nature Park in 1987 and recognized as one of the seven natural wonders of the country in 2010. The park encompasses 65 square miles (170 square kilometers) of salt marsh and islands. It is an important stopping place for migratory birds, and the barrier island beaches are popular recreational areas for locals and tourists.

The Faro area has a long history and has been occupied since prehistoric times. The first recorded settlement dates to the 4th century BC when the Phoenicians established a town on the Rio Formosa Lagoon. The area has been controlled by the Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Visigoths, and the Moors, who ruled the area for more than 500 years before Christian forces captured the area in 1249 during the Reconquista.

Faro has a charming old town with an interesting history, a small boat harbor, narrow cobblestone and tiled streets and alleys, restaurants and cafes seemingly on every corner, and beautiful churches and other buildings that predate anything to be found in our hometown, sometimes by many centuries.

We spent most of our time in Faro exploring the old town, sampling the local cuisine, enjoying the sunshine, and taking tons of photos. We did not visit any of the barrier island beaches, but the host of our B&B went out of her way to tell us about them and give us information about the ferry and tour boat operations that will take you there, an indication of how much the locals value the beaches. While Faro may not be a prime tourist destination, other than as a gateway to the Algarve, and gets short shrift in most guidebooks (Rick Steves’ Portugal makes no mention of Faro at all, for example), we found it to be a charming and worthwhile stop on our trip. For more information about Faro, click here.

The Algarve Coast

The first stop on our day tour of the Algarve was Algar Seco, just east of the small town of Carvoeiro. A wooden boardwalk runs along the top of the cliffs there, with amazing 180⁰ views east and west along the coast.

Stairs lead down from the boardwalk and into the limestone rock formations. The limestone cliffs rise directly from the ocean, with natural pools and blowholes along the water’s edge. Sea caves dot the area, and there are numerous dry caves higher up in the cliffs. Fossils of clams and other marine creatures can be found throughout the limestone layers.

Paths and tunnels that have been cut through the soft rock give easy access to the whole area. We had a great time exploring the cliffs and caves and just taking in the incredible views of the cliffs and ocean. Algar Seco is just an incredibly scenic place, well worth the hour-long van ride from Faro.

Our second stop was the Benagil area, a few miles east of Algar Seco. Photos of Benagil Cave were what drew my wife and I to the Algarve in the first place. We had dreams of kayaking or motoring into the cave that has a nice sandy beach, several openings to the sea, and a collapsed section of the roof giving views of the sky above. But so did hordes of tourists before us. So many, in fact, that overcrowding has led to regulations prohibiting all watercraft from entering the cave, making a boat tour less appealing.

And from above, you can barely see into the cave through the collapsed roof, unless you climb over the wooden barrier or go around it and climb along the edge of the opening, which many people (my wife and I included) do even though it is not safe.

The coastline there is plenty scenic, but we could have skipped Benagil, in my opinion. (But kayaking the coastline, even if you can’t access Benagil Cave, would be awesome).

Our final stop came at Marinha Beach, about a mile east of Benagil Cave. A trail leads from the parking area down to the beach, and there is a network of trails leading along the top of the cliffs to the west of the beach. Offshore sea stacks and several natural arches make this one of the most scenic shorelines you’ll find anywhere in the world.

We had a couple of hours at Marinha to enjoy the beach and explore the cliffs on our own before we had to meet back up with the tour group and head back to Faro. I think we could have easily spent the whole day there. Algar Seco is fantastic and should be on your itinerary if you visit the Algarve, but in my opinion, Marinha Beach and the cliffs of the Arcos Naturais (Natural Arches) are even better, without a doubt one of the highlights of our visit to Portugal.

Conclusion

Faro is an interesting city and a worthwhile stop, but if you have more time to explore the Algarve than we had, I suggest that you follow Rick Steves’ lead and spend a few days in Lagos or Salema in the far west of the Algarve. After all, we thought the area around Carvoeiro that we toured was fantastic, but Steves labels that part of the coast “the worst” of the Algarve. Yes, it’s touristy, crowded, and the lack of access to Benagil Cave makes it overrated. But, if the west end is better than Algar Seco and Marinha Beach, it has to be well worth visiting. We may never make it back to Portugal (so many places to see, so little time), but we will definitely explore the Algarve more thoroughly if we ever return.

Faro and the Algarve coastline are great destinations, and Lisbon and the surrounding area are definitely bucket list destinations for anyone that can travel to Europe. For more on our trip to Portugal, see to my posts on Lisbon and Sintra.

Posted July 11, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Sintra, Portugal

by Alan K. Lee

Introduction

Sintra is a magical fairytale town that combines spectacular palaces and magnificent gardens with the area’s deep history, making it a truly unique destination. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-see side trip if you’re visiting nearby Lisbon. Visiting Sintra can be done as a daytrip from Lisbon, which is what my wife and I did on our recent visit to Portugal and Andalucia, but you can’t see everything Sintra has to offer in a single day. To take in all Sintra has to offer, you either need to make several daytrips from Lisbon or, better yet, plan to spend a night or two in one of the town’s many hotels.

Since we had time for only a single daytrip from Lisbon, we had to be strategic about what we saw and what we didn’t. The top four attractions in Sintra are the Pena Palace (Palacio Nacional da Pena), the Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros), Quinta da Regaleira, and the Sintra Palace (Palacio Nacional da Sintra). We could have seen all four, had dinner in Sintra, and still been able to catch a return train to Lisbon that evening, but we weren’t sure we’d have time for all of that when we were making our plans. In the end, we chose to skip the Sintra Palace. But even though you can tour all four major attractions in a day, you won’t be able to fully explore them, and there’s still much to see in and around Sintra to make a second day necessary to see it all.

Getting there and getting around

If you’re doing a day trip from Lisbon, the best way to get to Sintra is by train. Trains to Sintra run from both the Rossio Train Station in the center of Lisbon and the Oriente Station near the airport, departing about every 20 minutes throughout the day. Tickets are cheap, less than three Euros one-way per person. They can be purchased at ticket counters or vending machines at either station and come in the form of a plastic Viva Viagem card. Tickets cannot be purchased online. Each person needs to have their own card, and tickets are one-way, so each person needs to purchase two tickets for a round trip. The trains are free if you purchase a Lisboa Card, which also gives you discounts to the major attractions in Sintra, free admission to many attractions in Lisbon, and unlimited travel on Lisbon’s Metro subway, surface tramway system, and public buses. See the Sintra Tourism website for more detailed information, including train schedules.

Once in Sintra, it’s about a 10-minute walk from the train station to the center of the historic old town and the Sintra Palace, and another ten minutes to Quinta da Regaleira. The Pena Palace and the Castle of the Moors are located on hilltops high above the town and are best reached by local bus (#434), taxi, or tuk tuk. The road to both is closed to private vehicles. You can hike up to them, but it’s quite a climb and I doubt that many people get there on foot. The old town center and Quinta da Regaleira can also be reached by bus (#435), taxi, or tuk tuk. There are also many tour companies that offer a range of tours that will take you to any or all of the major attractions in Sintra.

The Pena Place, Sintra Palace, and Castle of the Moors are all operated by Parques de Sintra and require timed entry tickets. We purchased tickets for the Pena Palace online, but it took much longer to get from town to the entrance to the park by bus than we anticipated, it’s at least a ten-minute walk from the park entrance to the palace, and there was a long line to get into the palace. All those factors meant that we were late getting to the palace entrance, outside the 30-minute window are tickets were good for. They let us in, though, despite the website stating that late entry would be denied and the cost of the tickets would not be refunded. Perhaps that was because we were there on a national holiday (see my post on Lisbon for more information about Portugal’s Freedom Day), but they could have legitimately sent us packing, so be sure to leave plenty of time to get there. You can wander around the grounds of the park if you’re early. We did not purchase tickets to the Castle of the Moors in advance, but we were able to purchase tickets on site. Quinta da Regaleira does not require timed entry tickets and the tickets we purchased online were valid for four months from the date of purchase.

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira was built by a man named António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, who purchased the property in the late 19^th century. From its completion in 1910 until 1997 the palace and grounds were a private estate. It was then purchased by the City of Sintra and opened to the public.

We did not tour the interior of the palace, but the park-like grounds surrounding the palace are a magical land of towers, ponds, pathways, tunnels, grottos, and a 100-foot-deep well with a spiral staircase around the perimeter known as the Initiation Well. The initiation to what is not clear, but Monteiro had ties to the Free Masons organization, which may have evolved out of the medieval Knights Templar, a somewhat secretive and mysterious military and religious order central to the Crusades, that once controlled Sintra.

The grounds are a bit confusing, and the intersecting paths are not well signed, so do your research and plan your visit well. Do not, as we did, simply show up and wander the grounds. We had a hard time finding the Initiation Well and were on the verge of giving up when we finally stumbled across it. Since it was the one feature that both my wife and I had independently hit on before we even began planning a trip to Portugal, not getting to experience it would have been a big loss.

There was a long line to get into the Initiation Well once we finally found out where it was, but it was well worth the twenty minutes or so that we had to wait. You enter through a small tunnel and then spiral your way down the perimeter staircase. It’s slow going because people are taking their time, trying to get photos that convey the experience (without much success in my case), or just taking in the weirdness and magnificence of it.

At the bottom you enter a long tunnel that takes you to the backside of a small waterfall and then out to one of the several ponds on the property. The gardens are a fever dream of fantasy and imagination, filled with caves, statues, enigmatic carvings, and structures that are completely unique and must be seen to be fully appreciated, all the creation of Monteiro and his architect, Luigi Manini.

Pena Palace

The Pena Palace dates to only the mid-19^th century, but the history of the site goes back to a 12^th century chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Pena and the 15^th century Monastery of St. Jerome. The monastery was left mostly in ruins by the earthquake of 1755 but what remained continued to be occupied until 1834 when it was finally abandoned.

The property was then purchased by Ferdinand II, King-consort and husband of Queen Maria II, who built the Pena Palace on the old monastery site. The palace was the summer residence of the Portuguese royal family until the monarchy was abolished in 1910, when it became a National Monument. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995.

The palace is surrounded by parkland that was developed by Ferdinand II during the same time period that the palace was built. Unfortunately, we did not have time to see more of the park than the portion of the grounds between the park entrance and the palace, another good reason to spend more time in Sintra than we allowed ourselves on our trip.

Castle of the Moors

After touring the Pena Palace, we walked the short distance back down the road to the Castelo dos Mouros. There is a ticket machine at the bus stop, which would not take my debit card, but there is another at the actual entrance to the castle, a short walk from the bus stop, where we were able to purchase tickets. Just inside the entrance, there is an interesting archeological site that was part of the Moorish village that once occupied the site. From there, it is an uphill climb to the parapet walls that snake across the slopes of the hill on which the castle is located.

The castle, a fortress high on a hill overlooking the Tagus River and the Lisbon area, was built between the 8^th and 10^th centuries by the Islamic rulers of the Iberian Peninsula to guard the surrounding agricultural areas. Inside the walls that stand today there was a Moorish village until 1147 when the area was retaken by Christian forces during the Reconquista.

Pena Palace, viewed from the Castle of the Moors

Little remains of the Moorish village or the subsequent Christian settlement that took its place, except for the ruins of the Chapel of São Pedro de Penaferrim and a few other structures, but the site is spectacularly beautiful.

There is a lot of climbing on the steeply sloped grounds if you want to see it all, especially up to the highest point. But the awesome views of the Pena Palace (as seen in the featured image at the top of this post) and down to the old town area of Sintra and the Sintra Palace, make the climb well worth the effort required.

Sintra Palace

The Sintra Palace dates to the same time period as the Castle of the Moors, but nothing of the original Moorish palace remains. The oldest part of the existing palace is the Royal Chapel, which may have been constructed in the early 14^th century. Most of the existing palace was built in the 15^th century. The palace was a summer residence of the Portuguese royal family for more than 500 years.

We did not tour the palace, but in retrospect we should have planned better and taken it in along with the other three attractions in Sintra that we did tour. Something left for our next visit, I guess.

Other Sintra Attractions

The Sintra Town Hall (Camara Municipal de Sintra), located near the railroad station, is one of the first buildings you’ll see in Sintra, and it is worth a look. But most people, like us, pass it by on their way to the historic center of Sintra and the other Sintra attractions mentioned above.

You’ll also pass by the entrance to the Parque da Liberadade if you walk from the train station to the old town center. Again, most people pass it by, which we did as well. But it looks like it is worth exploring, if you have the time (another reason to spend more than one day in Sintra). The historic town center is itself worth exploring, too.

Monserrate Palace. Photo by Jocelyn Erskine-Kelly, sourced from Wikimedia Commons.

About two miles west of the historic center, on the Rua Barbosa du Bocage (about 1.5 miles past Quinta da Regaleira), you’ll find the beautiful Park and Palace of Monserrate. The same bus that takes you to Quinta da Regaleira also takes you to Monserrate Palace. There are also numerous private tours that stop at Monserrate.

Cabo de Roca. Photo sourced from Wikimedia Commons and credited to “Mister No.”

Further west, Cabo de Roca, the westernmost point of Europe, is also a stop on many private tours, as are the nearby beaches. You can also ride the #435 bus all the way to the cape and beaches.

Conclusion

Whether you have only half a day or have two or more days to explore Sintra, you’ll come away impressed by the beauty, magnificence, and, in some cases, the weirdness of what you’ve seen. I can’t imagine anyone coming away from Sintra unhappy that they had come. It was definitely one of the highlights of our trip. But there were many other highlights, as well. Look for other posts from our trip that will be coming over the next month or so, including Faro and the Algarve, Seville, Cordoba, Granada, and Ronda, Spain.

Posted June 16, 2024

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Lisbon, Portugal

By Alan K. Lee

My wife and I recently traveled to Portugal and the Andalusia region of Spain for the first time. We had been talking about going to Lisbon and the rest of Portugal someday for a long time and had started planning this trip in 2019. But the Covid-19 pandemic scuttled that plan, and all our travel plans. And when we did decide to travel again, in 2022 as the pandemic was winding down, we did a Danube River cruise instead of going to Portugal. But we didn’t write off Portugal, and we resurrected our old plan in 2023 and rescheduled it for this spring (2024).

Lisbon was our first stop. We’d have been excited to finally set foot in Portugal, but after enduring a nine hour overnight flight from Portland to London, a two hour layover at Heathrow, a two hour delay after boarding our connecting flight while the flight crew and British Airways mechanics repaired the plane’s radio, and a two hour flight from London to Lisbon, we were too jet-lagged and sleep deprived to be excited about anything.

That all changed the next morning when we set out to explore Lisbon. We typically set aside one day at any new destination to just wander around, walk the streets, and see what we bump into. And that’s what we did on our first day in Lisbon.

Our hotel was about a half mile from Rossio Square, and that was our first stop that morning. Officially, it is King Pedro IV Square (Praca Dom Pedro IV), but everyone calls it Rossio. The square is paved with a distinctive wave-patterned tile. There are two large Baroque fountains at either end of the square and a statue of King Pedro IV set on the top of a nearly ninety-foot-tall column in the center of the square. Rossio Square has been the predominant site of city gatherings in Lisbon for centuries.

We explored the area around Rossio Square, including the nearby Praca dos Restauradores, which memorializes the restoration of a Portuguese monarchy separate from the Spanish monarchy in 1668, after a war that lasted 28 years. We also found the Rossio Train Station, from which we would take a train to Sintra the following day. We then made our way to the Santa Justa Elevator, which takes visitors up to the Bairro Alto section of the city. The elevator is itself a tourist attraction, though, and there was a crowd waiting to ride the elevator. We decided not to wait.

Nearby, we found a department store with a set of escalators and a fourth-floor exit onto an upper street behind the building. From there it was only a short uphill walk to the Archaeological Museum of Carmo (Museu Arqueológico do Carmo) and the ruins of the Carmo Convent that was destroyed by an earthquake in 1755.

View from the top of the Santa Justa Elevator

And from there we crossed a short bridge to the viewing platform at the top of the Santa Justa Elevator, which gives magnificent views across central Lisbon to the Sao Jorge Castle and to the Tagus River and beyond.

After taking in the views, we made our way down to the riverfront and the Praca do Comercio (Commerce Square) where crews were setting up for the Freedom Day celebrations (more on that below). From there we walked along the riverfront to the lower end of the Alfama district.

Statue of King Jose I in Commerce Square

The Alfama is a hillside neighborhood of narrow, winding cobblestone streets and alleys. In the past it was a poorer, rougher area home to dockworkers and sailors, and not an area tourists would want to visit. But today it is an upscale area home to artisans, many shops and restaurants, quaint and picturesque homes, several large churches, and the National Pantheon (pictured in the featured image at the top of this post). And it is definitely a must see for everyone visiting the city.

We stopped for lunch at a little restaurant that has a small outdoor courtyard seating area before wandering through the upper part of the Alfama and back to our hotel.

We had some trouble finding a place to eat that evening. The following day was Freedom Day and the partying was already well underway by then. Most of the restaurants near our hotel were already packed. We finally found an “artisanal” burger place with a few empty tables. The burgers weren’t that good, but we were just happy to get some food in our bellies after a long day on our feet. (We walked at least six miles that day, probably more).

Freedom Day in Portugal celebrates the overthrow of the dictatorship in 1974. It was a bloodless military coup and is called the “carnation revolution” because soldiers marching in the streets placed carnations in the barrels of their guns in celebration. April the 25^th is the equivalent of our 4^th of July, and it is a very, very big thing in Portugal, as we found out, both that evening and the following day.

Our second full day in Lisbon was mostly taken up with a day trip to Sintra (which I’ll cover in an upcoming post), but when we returned to Lisbon that evening, we exited the Rossio Train Station into a parade or march filling the street in front of the station from curb to curb with a mass of people heading to Rossio Square, some carrying homemade signs. We had to make our way across the street to get back to our hotel, so we joined the crowd for a ways and pretended we were Lisboners celebrating our freedom. Great fun and wonderful to see that mass of humanity on the streets in celebration.

On our third and final full day in Lisbon we stopped at the closest Metro station to our hotel after breakfast and bought 24-hour passes, which cover both the Metro subway system and the surface tramway system (and local buses, too, I believe), then walked to Martin Moniz Square where we caught a ride on the famed Tram 28 (after a fairly long wait in line even though we got there early).

Tram 28 takes you up through the Alfama, across the Baixa (the central business district), through the Chiado and Bairro Alta sections of the city, and all the way to Campo de Ourique in the west end of Lisbon.

The turnaround point is the oddly named Cemetery of Pleasures (Cemiteria dos Prazeres). I think maybe something got lost in translation there. Anyway, it’s a huge above ground cemetery with thousands of family tombs, some of them large and ornate. Everyone has to get off the tram there, so we took some time to explore the cemetery before catching a later tram back to the center of the city.

Castle of St. George (Castelo de Sao Jorge)

We got off the tram again in the Alfama. (With a 24-hour Metro pass, you can hop on and hop off the tram at will). After splitting a pizza for lunch at a little pizzeria, we walked up to Sao Jorge Castle, the high point of the Alfama. We spent a couple of hours touring the castle grounds and garden, the castle museum, and the chapel, then walked back down the hill to our hotel.

That evening, we had dinner and a couple of brews at Sputnik Brewing, two doors down from our hotel. We would have stopped in earlier, but the first two evenings the place was packed with Freedom Day celebrants, the crowd spilled out onto the sidewalk both nights, and we almost literally couldn’t have gotten in.

The following morning, we checked out of the hotel and rode the Metro (which is quick, clean, and safe) to the bus station where we caught a bus to Faro in the Algarve on the south coast of Portugal (look for a future post on our time there).

We had a great time in Lisbon and I’m glad we finally got to visit after five years of planning and waiting. Would we have done things differently if we had known what we do now? Probably. I think we would have skipped the day of wandering around on foot, and done the Tram 28 tour first, taking time to explore the Alfama and the castle in the morning, and exploring more of Bairro Alta in the afternoon. With the extra day, I think we would have gone to Belem, just west of Lisbon, and maybe to the seaside town of Cascais farther to the west. Taking a day trip to Sintra, as we did, is a must, though. I think if we were to do it again, we would stay an additional day or two. There is much to see in Lisbon that we didn’t have time for. You could easily spend five or six days (or longer) there and not run out of things to do. But as it was, we had a lot on our agenda for this trip, and didn’t have the time to linger in Lisbon. I’ll cover the rest of the trip in later posts.

View of the Carmo Convent ruins from Rossio Square

Posted June 6, 2024

Passau, Germany

by Alan K. Lee

The Danube River cruise that my wife and I took in 2022 ended in Passau, Germany. If you’ve never heard of Passau, join the crowd. I certainly never had, and I didn’t have any expectations of it being more than just the place where we disembarked the Viking “longship” that we had been cruising the river on. But Passau was a pleasant surprise.

Passau is located in Lower Bavaria in the southeastern corner of Germany, on the Austrian border. It’s a small city with a population of about 50,000. It’s known as the “city of three rivers,” as the River Inn and the River Ilz both flow into the Danube in Passau.

The last day of our cruise was spent entirely in Passau. In the morning, we took a guided walking tour of Passau. The medieval center of Passau is full of cobblestone streets and narrow alleys, but it’s a small area constrained by the Danube and the River Inn. You don’t have to wander far to reach one of the rivers, and once you reach a riverbank, the views open up to the hills surrounding the town. And the hills provide great views of the city.

The River Inn and the hilltop Wallfahrtskirche Mariahilf

After lunch, my wife and I climbed the 300+ steps up to the Wallfahrtskirche Mariahilf, a baroque church south of the River Inn, where there is a great view of the city.

Later, my wife hiked up to Vestre Oberhaus, a 13^th century fortress overlooking the city on the north side of the Danube (while I took a nap in our stateroom).

We finished our day with a walk to the park at the end of the peninsula with two of the friends we made on the cruise.

Like most European cities, Passau has a long history, dating all the way back to the 2^nd century BC. But the city was almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1662 and most of the older structures in Passau are baroque style buildings dating to the late 17^th century.

The Dom St. Stephan, with its three green onion domes, is the most prominent building in Passau. The cathedral is noted for its huge pipe organ, one of the largest in the world. We didn’t get to experience the pipe organ, but the cathedral is magnificent.

Passau served as a relaxing and fitting end to a great week. We got a taste of some of the great central European cities like Budapest and Vienna. We also visited places like Bratislava that we would never have seen had we not taken the cruise. And we saw some magnificent scenery, visited a well-preserved medieval village in Czechia, and toured a 900-year-old monastery and many churches and cathedrals.

My wife and I have now done two river cruises in Europe, and I would recommend either a Rhine River or a Danube River cruise as a good introduction to Europe. (Several river cruise lines combine the two into a grand tour that takes you from Amsterdam to Budapest). There are disadvantages to river cruises, of course, mainly that you never stay in one place long enough to really get to know it. But a river cruise gives you at least a taste of many places in a short time. If you are interested in learning more, check out my River Cruising post and any of the posts on the cities of the Rhine and Danube that you can find links to by clicking on Beyond the Northwest on the main page of this blog.

Posted May 20, 2024

Wachau Gorge, Austria

by Alan K. Lee

In 2022, my wife and I had the pleasure of taking a river cruise on the Danube, beginning in Budapest, Hungary and ending in Passau, Germany. Along the way, we toured Bratislava, Slovakia, spent a day exploring Vienna, Austria, and visited several other smaller cities and towns on the Danube. Most of the actual sailing took place at night, but we spent one beautiful afternoon cruising through the fabulous Wachau Gorge between the towns of Krems and Melk in northern Austria.

The Wachau Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (listed as the Wachau Cultural Landscape), known for its medieval history and architecture, but also for its modern-day vineyards and wineries and its riverine landscape. The Wachau Gorge is bookended by the town of Krems and the hilltop Gottweig Abbey and the town of Melk and the spectacular Melk Abbey on the south bank of the Danube.

Our day started with an early morning arrival in Krems and a morning tour of Gottweig Abbey a few miles south of the town.

Gottweig Abbey was founded in 1083 and has been continuously occupied for more than 900 years. The current structure was built in the 18^th century. (Viking River Cruises is the only cruise line that tours Gottweig Abbey, but also the only one that does not tour the larger Melk Abbey at the upstream end of the gorge).

Upstream of Krems, the valley narrows and the roughly 25 miles between Krems and Melk feature steeper slopes bordering both sides of the river with the occasional castle looming above the riverside towns. The town of Dunstein, seen in the featured photo at the top of this post, is particularly beautiful.

Most of the north shore of this stretch of the Danube is part of a nature park (Naturpark Jauerling Wachau) and is largely wild, managed to protect wildlife habitat and the natural environment. It’s also spectacularly beautiful.

Late that afternoon, we sailed past the town of Melk and the huge, and hugely popular, Melk Abbey. Like Gottweig Abbey, the original Melk Abbey was founded nearly a thousand years ago (in 1089) and has been continuously occupied ever since. The current structure dates from 1702. I would have loved to tour the abbey, but with several river cruise ships already docked there, I understand why Viking skips it.

Upstream of Melk, we spent the evening hours cruising the Wachau Valley, an agricultural area with many small riverside towns and vineyards.

The following morning found us in Linz, Austria. We didn’t see much of Linz because we took an all-day trip to the beautiful and well-preserved medieval village of Cesky Krumlov, Czechia. Then it was on to our final destination on the cruise, Passau, Germany.

After the cruise, we extended our trip to Salzburg, Austria and Munich, Germany. One of the advantages of river cruising is that you get to see a lot of places in a short amount of time. But one of the disadvantages is that you don’t spend much time in any one place. We were able to spend several days in Salzburg, though, and several more in Munich and the Bavarian Alps, through a relatively inexpensive addition to our cruise offered by Viking. Several of the friends we made on the cruise took a different extension (also booked through Viking) to Prague.

The two river cruises that my wife and I have taken (the other was on the Rhine) were both very enjoyable, hassle-free experiences (except for all of the Covid-19 tests that we had to take during our Danube cruise, but that is now in the past tense). Both featured an immersion into medieval history, beautiful riverside cities and villages, and beautiful stretches of natural habitat that is rare in Europe. I can personally recommend both cruises, and river cruising in general. If you’re interested in river cruises or are just curious, check out my European River Cruises post for more information and advice.

Posted April 15, 2024.

Vienna, Austria

Vienna, Austria is a city steeped in history going back to at least 500 BCE when the Celts first settled in the area. It was later occupied by the Romans, was the capital of the Habsburg Empire, and then the de facto capital (according to Wikipedia) of the Holy Roman Empire. Vienna is also the spiritual home of classical music. Mozart, Beethoven, Brahms, Haydn, Schubert, Mahler, and many others lived and worked in Vienna, and many of the most acclaimed classical music works were composed and first performed there.

There’s so much to take in that Vienna cannot be fully appreciated on only a short visit. And my wife and I had only one full day to absorb as much of the city as we could on our 2022 Danube River cruise. But it was a memorable day.

Unlike Budapest and Bratislava, the historical center of the city does not lie directly on the Danube. We had to take Vienna’s subway system from the riverfront to the medieval center, which lessened the sense of going back-in-time that we have felt in exploring some of the other ancient European cities that we’ve visited. But the old city is truly magnificent. It is home to some of the most spectacular medieval architecture that can be found anywhere in Europe.

St. Steven’s Cathedral, Hofburg Palace, the Vienna State Opera House, the Albertina art museum, Maria Theresa Plaza, the Kunst Historical Museum, Mozart’s residence, and many other museums and places of interest are all within a half mile radius of each other in the historic center.

Belvedere Palace and Schonbrunn Palace, two of the more spectacular examples of Vienna’s medieval architecture, are a little farther afield and weren’t on our walking tour but are must-see attractions if you have more time than we did.

On our walking tour we chanced upon students of the Spanish Riding School exercising some of the famous Lipizzaner Stallions in the Burggarten park adjacent to the Hofburg Palace.

Besides being the cultural and historic center of Austria, Vienna is a modern city of two million people that has been ranked several times as the world’s most livable city, so there is much more to explore than just the medieval center.

Vienna is also a city of many beautiful parks and natural areas. After our walking tour of the medieval center, we crossed the Danube and spend some time in a beautiful park on a long, narrow, tree lined island between the main channel of the Danube and the Neue Donau side channel.

We likely will never return to Vienna – too many places we haven’t seen, and too little time left in our lives – but it’s one of the places that I would to return to if I ever check off all of my bucket list destinations. I left Vienna feeling like I didn’t get more than a tiny taste of what it has to offer. If you have a desire to visit Vienna, check out Visiting Vienna’s Guide To Vienna webpage to begin your planning. And plan to spend at least three or four days there. There is just too much there to see in a day or two.

And if you do go to Vienna, visit Budapest, too. And include Salzburg on your itinerary, as well. You won’t regret adding either of those cities to your trip.

Posted April 4, 2024 by Alan K. Lee

Bern and Basel, Switzerland

When travelers think of Swiss cities, Bern and Basel probably don’t come immediately to mind. In fact, Rick Steves’ Switzerland guide book doesn’t even mention Basel. And even though Bern is the capital of Switzerland, it is not nearly as well known as Geneva, Zurich, and Lucerne. But both Bern and Basel have charming and interesting medieval city centers and are well worth exploring.

Basel is located on the Rhine River where the borders of Switzerland, Germany, and France meet. The city center straddles the river, and the city’s suburbs spill into both Germany and France. Bern is located on the Aare River midway between Geneva and Zurich, about 40 miles as the crow flies south of Basel .

BASEL

When my wife and I did a Rhine River cruise a number of years ago, Basel wasn’t really on our agenda. It was just the place where the cruise ended, where we would spend the night before extending our trip to the Lauterbrunnen Valley in the Berner Oberland section of Switzerland.

Since our guide book didn’t cover Basel at all, we didn’t know quite what to expect. But, after disembarking the ship in the morning and taking a taxi to our hotel, we took advantage of having the rest of the day to explore the city.

We first headed to the Museum of Contemporary Art, part of the Kunstmuseum. On the way there we discovered an old section of the city (the St. Alban District) that is as picturesque and has all of the charm of the other medieval city centers we’ve visited, but with few tourists and no crowds.

After touring the museum, we spent the rest of the day sampling Swiss cuisine and exploring more of the city center, including Basel Cathedral (Basel Minster) and the Basel Town Hall (Rathaus), which has been the seat of government for 500 years. All in all, Basel was a delightful surprise, and a fitting end to our Rhine River cruise.

I later learned that Basel is considered by many to be the cultural heart of Switzerland. The Kunstmuseum (linked above), which opened in 1661, is the oldest public art museum in the world. The Museum of Contemprary Art is also the oldest contemporary art museum in Europe. And the and the University of Basel, founded in 1460, is the oldest university in Switzerland. Clearly, there is a lot of history here.

BERN

Bern also wasn’t really on our radar before the trip. After our stay in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, it was an overnight stop on our way back to Amsterdam and our flight home. But we had booked a hotel room in the old medieval city center, and had the afternoon and evening to explore the old town.

We wandered our way through the medieval center and down to the Aare River at the point of the peninsula that the old city is located on. The Aare is strikingly beautiful, colored turquoise blue by the glacial silt it carries. We lingered along river for a while before crossing the relatively new (built in 1840) high bridge (Nydeggbrucke) on our way to a couple of cold beers at the Altes Tramsdepot, a restaurant and pub housed in what was once a transit center.

The restaurant and the viewpoint next to it provide a good view of the river and the old city. And below, along the river, you can sometimes see brown bears, which are the symbol of Bern, in the Bear Park (Barenpark). The bears were not out and about when we were there, though.

Just downstream of the Nydeggbrucke, the older Untertorbrucke is a good vantage point to photograph the river and the high bridge. The current Untertorbrucke was constructed in 1489 to replace a wooden bridge built in 1256.

Back in the medieval city center (all of which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site), we visited the Bern Cathedral (Bern Minster) and the Swiss Assembly building (the Bundeshaus). On the grounds of the Bundeshaus we found a rock garden with rocks from places around the world that have Switzerland in their name or are somehow associated with Switzerland. The Wallowa Mountains in Oregon are often referred to as the “Switzerland of America,” and, sure enough, one of the rocks in the rock garden came from Joseph, Oregon.

The following morning we boarded a train for an all day journey back to Amsterdam, where we spent a few more days before flying back to Portland. The Rhine River cruise, our foray into Switzerland, and our exploration of Amsterdam were all quite incredible experiences. I just wish that we had been able to spend more time in Switzerland, including Bern and Basel. They are both very interesting cities and we barely scratched the surface of what is there for the visitor. I hope to return someday, and I think that most travelers will find even a brief visit to Bern or Basel as worthwhile as we did.

Originally posted February 27, 2021 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and reposted February 9, 2024.

New Orleans

New Orleans. NOLA. The Big Easy. No matter what you call it, and no matter where your interests lie, the city has something for you. Food, drink, music, art, history, architecture, parks, festivals, cemeteries, voodoo, river boats, streetcars, endless parties, you name it. New Orleans has it all. In abundance.

The city’s identity has been forged from many roots – French, American, African American, Native American, Haitian, and more. And those roots have produced many branches and have blossomed into something truly unique.

It’s been quite a while since I’ve been to New Orleans, but the ten days or so that my wife and I spent there left an indelible imprint on my psyche. The food, the music, the arts, the people. There is simply no place else like it in the U.S. Probably no place in the world.

We spent our first day in New Orleans just wandering around the French Quarter with no agenda. We almost always allow ourselves time in a new city just to explore at random. We’ve had many memorable experiences that we would never have had if we had stuck to the guide book recommendations. But don’t throw away the guide books, either. Their recommendations are there for a reason.

That first night, we wandered over to Bourbon Street to see what that is all about. We had a great time and we came back again another night. And, by all means, if you’re visiting New Orleans for the first time, venture into the French Quarter after dark and take in that giant street party. Get your Hurricane in a go cup and wander the street. Take in some of the live music, mingle with the other tourists, have another Hurricane, dance the night away. Get it all out of your system. But don’t think that’s the real New Orleans. Bourbon Street is the Disneyland version of the Big Easy.

So, how to experience the real New Orleans? Well, you probably have to spend a year or two there to really get to know the city. It’s a complex place. But if you don’t have that kind of time, my first recommendation would be to find a place to stay in the French Quarter. It’s the historic center of the city and the city’s cultural heart. Most of what you’ll probably want to see and do you’ll find either in French Quarter itself or close by.

My wife and I stayed at a boutique hotel (I’ve forgotten its name) near the river, across the street from the House of Blues, for the first part of our stay. As I recall, it was a very nice and quite affordable place. But after a few days there, the hotel had some sort of plumbing system problem, necessitating our move to the Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street for the second part of our visit. The Monteleone turned out to be one of the better hotels we’ve stayed in, but there are plenty of other places to stay in the French Quarter. Check the French Quarter website for recommendations.

Since my wife and I are both art lovers, another thing that we always do in a new city is spend at least some time exploring the local arts scene. Sometimes that just entails visiting local museums and art galleries. But we also seek out local artists and art related events when we can. The New Orleans Museum of Art , located in City Park, and the adjacent Besthoff Sculpture Garden were two of our first stops, along with a number of galleries in the French Quarter. But we also took in an arts and crafts fair in Mickey Markey Park in the Bywater neighborhood, about a mile east of the French Quarter, where we met several local artists.

I won’t spend much time here trying to give you a guide to the French Quarter. There are plenty of guide books and online guides that will do a better job than I can. But there are tons of things to see and do in the Vieux Carre and you could spend your entire visit there and not get bored. Plan to spend at least a full day, and preferably a couple of days, exploring the French Quarter on your visit.

But if you really want to sample what New Orleans has to offer, and have the time, I recommend that you also go beyond the French Quarter. Visit City Park and Audubon Park. Take a walk through the Garden District. Take the ferry across the river to the Algiers neighborhood. Visit one of the city’s famous cemeteries. Take a cruise on the Mississippi in a paddle wheeler. Check out the Treme and Marigny neighborhoods. Even go beyond the city itself and take a swamp tour or a plantation tour.

We spent one afternoon exploring the Algiers neighborhood across the river from the French Quarter. Take the ferry from the terminal at the foot of Canal Street. It’s a short but scenic ride and Algiers is an interesting place. Check out the Jazz Walk of Fame next to the ferry terminal. Take a walk along the levy on the Mississippi River Trail. Stop in at one of Algiers many restaurants and bars, such as the Dry Dock Cafe, the Old Point Bar, Tout de Suite Cafe, or the Crown and Anchor English Pub. And just walk around the neighborhood. As I said, it’s an interesting place, full of beautiful old houses and impressive buildings.

Touring one of the city’s many cemeteries turned out to be one of the more interesting things we did on our visit. Because the land New Orleans is built on was originally a swamp, and much of it is below sea level, the dead are not buried in the ground, but are interred in above ground crypts or tombs.

When we were there, we were warned that some of the cemeteries were dangerous places to visit and should be avoided. That may have changed, but check before you venture into any of the city’s cemeteries. There are organized cemetery tours that you can take, but we preferred to go on our own. One of the cemeteries that was said to be safe, and the one we visited, was St. Patrick Cemetery No. 1, on Canal Street near the end of the streetcar line.

Many of the tombs there are large, elaborate, and impressive, holding the remains of many generations of the same family. The larger and more ornate ones are generally well kept up, but many of the others have not been maintained and are crumbling. Many are just ruins, empty and abandoned. One has to wonder what became of the bodies.

Visiting some of the city’s parks also turned out to be one of the more worthwhile ways we found to spend our time. There are a number of parks in the city that are worth a visit. Jackson Square in the French Quarter, and Louis Armstrong Park, on Rampart Street in the Treme neighborhood adjacent to the Quarter, should be on everyone’s agenda.

City Park , about two miles north of the French Quarter, and Audubon Park, a couple of miles west of the Quarter, both have attractions for the whole family. Besides being home to the New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park is also home to the Louisiana Children’s Museum, a short walk from NOMA, and the New Orleans Botanical Garden. And Audubon Park is home to both a zoo and an aquarium. Both parks also feature nature trails, beautiful ponds, magnificent live oaks draped in Spanish moss, and many other attractions. Both City Park and Audubon Park are easily reached from the French Quarter by the city’s streetcar lines.

Think of New Orleans and Mardi Gras is probably the first thing that comes to mind. Mardi Gras has been celebrated in Louisiana since at least 1699, before the founding of New Orleans. It is celebrated in many other communities, but the New Orleans festivities are the quintessential Mardi Gras celebrations. We were there a week or two after the end of Mardi Gras, so I can’t give you an eye witness account of what Mardi Gras is actually like. But it is a festival that I would like to experience some day.

The other New Orleans festival that I would dearly love to take in is the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, held each year in late April and early May. This may actually be a bigger tourist draw than Mardi Gras. As many as 650,000 people have attended in past years.

Music is an essential component of the spirit of the Big Easy. Whether it’s traditional Cajun fiddle tunes, blues, jazz, swamp rock, zydeco, country, or a fusion of some or all of those genres, music permeates the city. Street performers are a common sight in the French Quarter any time of the day or night. And there are probably hundreds of clubs throughout the city offering live performances late into the night, every night. Take in as much of the music as you can while you’re there because it’s such a vital component of the city’s spirit.

There’s plenty of music to be heard on Bourbon Street, but there are more authentic venues elsewhere. Preservation Hall, in the French Quarter, is probably the most famous. Tipitina’s, on Napolean Avenue about a mile and a half west of the French Quarter, might be the most highly regarded club. The Spotted Cat Music Club, the Blue Nile, and d.b.a., all on Frenchmen Street in the Marigny, are three of the most highly regarded clubs. Le Bon Temps Roule, near Tipitina’s, and Chickie Wah Wah, on Canal Street in Mid-city, are a couple of other well regarded venues. In the French Quarter, check out One Eyed Jack’s.

Like music, the cuisine of New Orleans is one the city’s defining features. I fell in love with the food when we were there, and gumbo and jambalaya have become mainstays in my home kitchen. The Foodies Guide to New Orleans website will give you a good overview of the city’s culinary offerings. The people of New Orleans are passionate about their food and anyone you talk to will probably be happy to steer you to some great places to eat. Or you can book one of the many food tours that are available.

The food scene has probably changed a lot since we were there, but there are some iconic New Orleans eateries that you might want to check out. The Cafe du Monde in the French Market is one of those. It’s been a New Orleans institution since 1862. Go for the beignets and the coffee with chicory because that’s about all they serve. And go early. You’ll probably still have to wait in line to get in, but it’s an iconic New Orleans experience that shouldn’t be missed. And dinner at Antoine’s was a highlight of our stay. Antoine’s has been in existence even longer than the Cafe du Monde. They’ve been serving French Creole food in the same location since 1840. There’s no place in New Orleans more steeped in history than Antoine’s.

And then there’s voodoo. Personally, I have no interest in voodoo, but it’s another unique component of the culture and you can’t ignore it completely if you want to get the full New Orleans experience. You might just want to stop in at one of the many shops in the French Quarter selling voodoo related trinkets. Or maybe delve deeper into the history and practice of voodoo by visiting the Voodoo Museum or taking a voodoo tour.

New Orleans can’t be adequately described in words or pictures by any means. It really has to be experienced. It blends the Old South charm of places like Charleston and Savannah with the party atmosphere of places like Key West, and mixes in a whole lot more to boot. You should make the pilgrimage to the Big Easy at least once in your life. You won’t regret it.

Originally posted January 9, 2021 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted January 10, 2024.

San Juan Island, Washington

Introduction

It had been a long time since my wife and I had been to the San Juans Islands, so a trip to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island seemed like the ideal early fall getaway that we were looking for. The San Juan Islands lie in the Salish Sea north of Puget Sound in Washington, and east of British Columbia’s Vancouver Island. There are four main islands that are served by ferry – Orcas, Shaw, Lopez, and San Juan. San Juan Island is the largest and most populous of the islands.

We drove to Anacortes, Washington from our home in the Portland area and spent some time that afternoon exploring the town and the nearby town of La Conner, one of my favorite small towns in the Pacific Northwest. We boarded our ferry the next morning for the hour and a half trip through the islands to Friday Harbor. We spent the next four days getting reacquainted with the many charms of the town and the island.

Getting There

Most visitors to the island come via the Washington State Ferry System. There are interisland ferries that depart from Anacortes and stop at all four of the main islands, and an express ferry that runs between Anacortes and Friday Harbor, bypassing the other islands. Check the ferry website for schedules and to make reservations. Reservations aren’t absolutely required – a few spots are left for people without reservations – but reserving a ticket in advance is the only way to guarantee that you’ll get on. Even then, ferries are sometimes cancelled due to weather or other causes. Our ferry to Friday Harbor was delayed for an hour and earlier sailings that day were cancelled due to the lack of a full crew.

The other ways of getting to San Juan Island are by private boat, water taxi (passengers only), or airplane. There are several water taxi services that operate from various mainland ports to Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor (and to other islands, including those not served by the ferry system). And Kenmore Air has a limited schedule of flights from Boeing Field in Seattle to Friday Harbor Airport. Kenmore Air and others also operate seaplane flights to Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor.

Getting Around

If you’re just interested in exploring Friday Harbor, you don’t need a vehicle. It’s a small and very walkable community, and there is plenty there to keep you occupied for at least a couple of days. So, you can save some money by leaving your car behind in Anacortes and buying a passenger only ticket on the ferry. Water taxis will cost as much, or more, as taking your car on the ferry. I didn’t check into flight costs, but they are almost certainly much more expensive than the ferry.

Even without a vehicle, you can still get around the island via the San Juan Transit bus system that stops at Roche Harbor, English Camp, American Camp, Lime Kiln Point State Park, and several resorts, wineries, and other attractions on the island. Uber and Lyft also operate on the island.

Another way to get around is by bicycle. Bring your own or rent from one of several rental shops in Friday Harbor. Roche Harbor, on the north end of the island, is less than ten miles from downtown Friday Harbor. Other destinations are even closer. The easiest way to get around is by car, of course. We brought ours. The cost for the round-trip ferry ride from Anacortes was about $75.

Friday Harbor

Friday Harbor is the commercial center of the San Juan Islands and the only town of any size. Although small in size and population, Friday Harbor is chocked full of interesting places to visit and things to do, regardless of your particular interests. There are several interesting museums, dozens of cafes and restaurants, small shops of all kinds, and many places to take in the views of the harbor and the surrounding islands. A number of companies offer whale watching cruises. Others offer scenic flights on floatplanes. And kayak tours, both day and multi-day trips, can be booked through several companies in Friday Harbor.

There is no shortage of places to eat in Friday Harbor. For breakfast and lunch, I can personally recommend both Rocky Bay Café and Tina’s Place. For dining with a view, go to Downriggers on the bayfront. Classic Italian food can be found at Vinny’s Ristorante. Vegetarian and vegan food can be had at Mike’s Café and Wine Bar. For quality craft beers and upscale pub food, try San Juan Brewing. For seafood in a casual dining space, check out Friday’s Crab House. We ate at all of those, and all were good. But that’s just a sampling of what Friday Harbor offers. I wish we had had a few more days to sample more of the town’s eateries. What’s a vacation for, after all.

If you an art lover, The San Juan Islands Museum of Art features visual artworks from local and regional artists. On a slightly different note, The Whale Museum has exhibits featuring native arts and the marine environment with a focus on education and environmental protection. You might also want to visit the Arctic Raven Gallery.

We stayed in a vacation rental about a five minute walk from downtown Friday Harbor, but there are many other lodging options in Friday Harbor and around the island, from luxury hotels to budget friendly cabins and cottages. A full list of available accommodations of all types can be found on the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau website, as well as a comprehensive list of things to do and sights to see.

Roche Harbor

Roche Harbor, located on the north end of the island, was once the site of the largest lime deposit in the Pacific Northwest, and a large lime plant. Since the closing of the lime plant, Roche Harbor has morphed into an upscale resort community that is one of the most visited sites on the island.

The resort consists of a hotel (the historic Hotel De Haro, built in 1886), a large marina, three restaurants, a grocery store, several shops featuring local artisans, tennis courts, a heated outdoor swimming pool, and nicely landscaped grounds. Besides the hotel, resort accommodations also include historic cottages and modern luxury houses.

San Juan Islands Sculpture Park

Near Roche Harbor (I think it’s actually part of the resort), the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park is a must see if you’re at all interested in sculpture. There are over 100 works of art (it seemed like many more) spread out over the twenty acres of the garden. Plan to spend at least an hour here. We spent more than that and still didn’t see it all. Admission is free, but donations are requested.

The Pig War

The 1846 Treaty that set the boundary between Canada and the United States didn’t specify whether the boundary was meant to be Haro Strait, west of San Juan Island, or Rosario Strait, east of Lopez and Orcas Islands. Both England and the U.S. claimed the islands and both British and American settlers resided on San Juan Island, mostly in peace. But in 1859 an American settler shot and killed a pig that had strayed onto his land. The pig belonged to an English company. That act almost started a war.

Tensions between the American and British contingents led both England and the U.S. to send military forces to the island. From 1859 to 1872, when the boundary dispute was finally settled in favor of the United States, the island was jointly occupied by both forces. No actual combat occurred, and no one was injured in the Pig War. The sites of the two country’s military installations are now part of San Juan Island National Historical Park.

English Camp

The British military outpost was located on Garrison Bay, on the northwest corner of the island not far from Roche Harbor. Only a few of the original structures remain. One of the barracks now houses the English Camp Visitor Center. Lots of interesting history there in a beautiful setting. I highly recommend stopping in.

American Camp

The American forces were located on the south end of the island about five miles south of Friday Harbor. Like at English Camp, few of the original structures remain, and only one of the structures is in its original location. Unlike English Camp, American Camp is located away from the water, on an open ridge top overlooking the water on both sides of the island. The visitor center here is much larger than the one at English Camp and is in a modern structure. More interesting history here, in a different but equally beautiful setting.

My wife and I did a short (1.7-mile) hike here. Starting at the visitor center, we first hiked east to the Parade Grounds and Picket’s Redoubt, then south to the edge of the bluff overlooking the shore. The trail then took us west along the bluff with nice views of Eagle Point and across Haro Strait to Vancouver Island. We took a short side trip down to the water at Grandma’s Cove before returning to the visitor center.

South Beach and Cattle Point

South Beach, just southeast of American Camp, is also part of San Juan Island National Historical Park. Cattle Point, just outside the park boundary, is the southernmost point of land on the island. Neither are particularly remarkable, and Cattle Point Lighthouse (our destination after visiting American Camp) isn’t as attractive or iconic as Lime Kiln Point Lighthouse (pictured below). But the views of nearby Lopez Island and some of the smaller islands between San Juan and Lopez are nice, and there are some good trails in the area. In fact, if you’re looking for a little longer hike than the one we did at American Camp, it’s possible to hike from the American Camp Visitor Center to Cattle Point. The out and back hike is about seven miles. A slightly shorter hike (4.3 miles) to Cattle Point begins and ends at the Jake’s Beach Lagoon parking area.

San Juan County Park and Lime Kiln Point

The west coast of San Juan Island is prime whale watching territory, and the island’s west coast is rugged and wildly beautiful. San Juan County Park has a small campground and a boat ramp on Smallpox Bay.

Lime Kiln Point State Park has a scenic lighthouse, trails along the shore, and is one of the prime whale watching sites on the island. Both offer views across Haro Strait to Vancouver Island and the northeast suburbs of Victoria. Unfortunately, there were no whales in the area when we visited.

Zylstra Lake

Until 2015 Zylstra Lake was privately owned and surrounded by farmland, and it has only recently been opened to the public. It is now owned by San Juan County Land Bank and managed under a conservation easement by the San Juan Preservation Trust. We thought it might be an interesting place to explore, and the trail around the lake looked like it might be a good hike. Both of those proved to be true. For more information and a description of the hike, click here to view my hike-of-the-week post.

Conclusion

On our final evening on the island, we drove to the Westside Preserve, just south of Lime Kiln Point, to watch the sunset. We didn’t see any whales there either, but the sunset was beautiful and a nice way to end our stay.

The next morning, we caught our ferry back to the mainland, fought our way through Seattle area traffic, and returned home, refreshed and ready for our next adventure.

Posted October 12, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

Isle of Man

Even though my only visit to the Isle of Man came almost twenty years ago, at the end of an almost month-long vacation to Scotland and England’s Lake District, the three days we spent on the Isle of man were memorable.

The Isle of Man lies in the Irish Sea, halfway between Liverpool and Belfast. My sister in law had visited the island previously and thought we would like it, so my wife and I added it to the itinerary for our 2006 trip to England and Scotland. And I’m glad we did. The Isle of Man is a very interesting and charming place, and certainly one of the most unique places that we have visited in our travels.

Not quite an independent country, the Isle of Man is officially a Protectorate of the United Kingdom. The UK is responsible for the island’s defense and representing the island in international affairs. But the Isle of Man is not actually a part of the United Kingdom. The island’s parliament, which has been in existence since the 10th century, governs all domestic matters, and the island has its own legal and political systems and its own currency. (The British Pound is also legal tender on the Isle of Man, but the reverse is not true, as I found out when I accidentally tried to pay a bar tab back in England with an Isle of Man £20 note. The barkeep was not amused, to say the least.)

Getting to the island is relatively easy. It is no more than a 30 minute flight from any major city in the UK or Ireland. We, however, traveled to the island by passenger ferry from Heysham, England, which takes about two and a half hours. Ferries from Heysham and Liverpool run year round. In the summer months, there are also ferries from Belfast and Dublin to Douglas, the capital and largest city on the island.

Getting around on the Isle of Man is also easy. There is a government run bus system that covers the entire island. And since it is a small island, only roughly 300 square miles in size, all of the towns on the island are within about twenty miles of each other. There is also steam powered railroad running between Douglas and Port Erin in the south, and an electric railway running between Douglas and Ramsey in the north. And there is even an electric railway running to the summit of Snaefel, the highest peak on the island.

We stayed in Douglas and spent most of our time on the island exploring the city, but we also ventured to Peele, on the west coast, by double-decker bus, and to Port Erin by the steam train. Neither of us had ever ridden in a double-decker, and the train was one of a kind. I’m not sure which was more fun, riding in the front seat of the upper deck on the bus, or riding the little steam train on its leisurely journey to Port Erin.

On our train ride we met a local gentleman who was happy to pass on some of his knowledge of the island and its history. We found the Manx people to be friendly and welcoming.

The Isle of Man has an interesting history. It has been ruled by the Celts and the Vikings, and it has, at various times, been part of Norway, Scotland, and England. But the Manx people have a strong sense of their own identity and have managed to maintain that identity for more than a millennia, regardless of who ruled the island. Tynwald, the Isle of Man parliament, is one of the oldest, if not the oldest, in the world. And human occupation of the island goes back to at least 6500 BC.

The Isle of Man is known for the short-tailed Manx breed of cats. The island is also the home of a four- and sometimes six-horned breed of sheep, and a population of red-necked wallaby, which have become established on the island after escaping from a wildlife park. We saw many of the odd looking sheep, but no cats or wallabies, sorry to say.

Motor sports fans know the island for the Isle of Man Tourist Trophy motorcycle races. For two weeks in May or June, the island becomes one giant racetrack. The TT, as it’s known, was first held in 1907, and is probably the most famous motorcycle race in the world today.

The Isle of Man was a popular tourist destination for a good part of the 20th century. But the advent of cheap flights from Great Britain to southern Europe led to a significant decline in the tourist industry. Today, the economy of the island revolves around banking, insurance, online gaming, and information technology.

While the Isle of Man might not be a tourist destination in its own right, at least for those of us from North America, we thoroughly enjoyed our time there, and I would like to go back someday. It has been some time since we visited, but given the island’s long history, I doubt that its essential character has changed much over the past seventeen years. I’m sure it remains a worthy addition to any trip to Great Britain or Ireland.

Originally posted by Alan K. Lee, December 4, 2020. Updated and re-posted August 28, 2023.

Edinburgh, Scotland

Edinburgh

The City

When my wife and I were planning our first trip to Europe, Scotland was the destination we settled on, and we were not disappointed. Beautiful wild lands, castles everywhere, friendly people, 1500 years (or more) of history – that trip had everything. And Edinburgh was where we spent the most time. Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland and the historic heart of the country. It’s a beautiful and fascinating city, and no visit to Scotland is complete without spending at least a day or two in Edinburgh.

That trip was more than 15 years ago and some things may have changed greatly since then, so I won’t go into much detail as to what to do, where to stay, where to eat, what things cost, and so forth. But there’s much to Edinburgh that is timeless, and undoubtedly has not changed in the years since our visit.

Central Edinburgh is divided into the Old Town and the New Town. The Old Town includes Edinburgh Castle, the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Royal Mile connecting the two, and the area to the south. The New Town stretches from Princes Street Gardens, directly below the Castle, to Queen Street Gardens and the adjacent area to the north. The Old Town is the historic center of Edinburgh, and also the site of the present-day Parliament. As far as the New Town goes, new is a relative term since construction of the New Town began in the 1760s.

Both the Old Town and the New Town have their charms, and both deserve at least some of your attention. We spent most of our four days in Edinburgh exploring the Old Town, so I’ll focus on that part of the city.

Edinburgh Castle

Built atop a volcanic outcropping called, appropriately enough, Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle dominates the skyline of the city. The first castle on Castle Rock is thought to have been built in the 12th century, but none of that structure remains. The oldest remaining structure in the Castle is St. Margaret’s Chapel, dating to the mid 13th century. Most of the other remaining structure dates to the 16th century or later.

At the Castle, history and legend abound. You can visit the Great Hall, where the Scottish Parliament once convened, and Queen Mary’s Bedroom, where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI. You can see the Scottish Crown Jewels in the Crown Chamber, tour the French Prisons, and see the huge five-ton cannon known as Mons Meg. Plan to spend several hours at a minimum exploring the Castle.

The Royal Mile

The Royal Mile begins at Edinburgh Castle and runs downhill to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. I was surprised by how much there was to see and do in that mile long stretch. We spent most of two full days exploring it.

Just below the Castle, the Overlook Tower and the Camera Obscura are worth a visit. The camera obscura casts a fascinating real-time revolving image of the surrounding area onto a circular table. Nearby is the Scotch Whisky Heritage Center where you can learn about the making of Scotch Whisky and sample a variety of different whiskies.

Although we didn’t go inside, St. Giles Cathedral, also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, is a magnificent structure that predates most of the structures in Edinburgh Castle. The cathedral was built between the late 14th and early 16th centuries. Entrance to the cathedral is free, but a small donation is requested.

One of the attractions of the Royal Mile are the “closes,” underground passageways that were once narrow streets or walkways between houses. The upper floors of some the houses were demolished and the lower stories used as foundation for the Royal Exchange, built in the mid 18th century, leaving the closes below ground. Some of the closes remain as passages between the Royal Mile and the streets to the south, and organized tours of some of the more subterranean closes, such as the Real Mary King’s Close, are available.

Other attractions of the Royal Mile include the John Knox House, the Writers’ Museum, the Huntly House, and The People’s Story, a museum housed in the historic Canongate Tolbooth, built in 1591.

You will also find the Scottish Parliament buildings at the lower end of the Royal Mile near Holyroodhouse. Their contemporary, modernist design stands in stark contrast to the traditional and historical structures around them. And while I in fact like the design, to me they look out of place in their setting.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse

At the bottom of the Royal Mile lies the Palace of Holyroodhouse. All that remains of the original palace, built by James IV in the 16th century, is the North Tower. Most of the existing structure was built by Charles II about a century later. Adjacent to the palace are the ruins of the nave of an Augustinian abbey built in the 12th century.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the official residence of the Monarchy in Scotland, but the palace is open to the public when King Charles III is not in residence. We did not tour the interior, but it comes highly rated. You can visit the Throne Room, the Picture Gallery, and the King’s Bedchamber, and Tour the King James Tower, where Mary Queen of Scots lived. For more information, check the Royal Collection Trust website.

Arthur’s Seat. Photo by Claudel Rheault, sourced from Wikimedia Commons

Adjacent to the palace is Holyrood Park. Here you can climb to the top of the 823-foot-high Arthur’s Seat where you can get a panoramic view of Edinburgh Castle and the city beyond.

Beyond the Old Town

The most striking features of the New Town are the Princes Street Gardens, pictured above, and the Scott Memorial, pictured below.

We didn’t make it to Queen Street and Queen Street Gardens, but the photos I’ve seen and the guidebook descriptions make me think we missed something there.

A little farther afield in the West End, though within easy walking distance of the New Town, is the Scottish Gallery of Modern Art, one of Edinburgh’s many museums. After days of being immersed in ancient history and medieval art, it was nice to see something more contemporary.

On the walk back we discovered a path along the Water of Leith that took us to Dean Village, a charming little community that dates to the 12th century. (The Bald Hiker website just published a post on the Water of Leith walk – all 13 miles of it. Click here to view the post).

On our visit we stayed at an old hotel just east of Calton Hill. With its many monuments, including the Nelson Monument and the Lincoln Monument (which is in fact dedicated to Abraham Lincoln), Calton Hill is one of the more scenic and picturesque locations in Edinburgh. From the top of the hill you have a panoramic view over the city and to the Firth of Forth and the Port of Leith, where the Royal Yacht Britannia, once Queen Elizabeth II’s private yacht, is berthed. Since its decommissioning in 1997, the yacht has been open to the public.

Festivals

Edinburgh is not completely lost in its history. It has a modern, contemporary side as well, and it is a city of festivals. The biggest and most famous is the Edinburgh International Festival, held every August. Running simultaneously with it is the Edinburgh Festival Fringe in which anyone and everyone is given free rein to put on whatever kind of performance they choose, wherever they can find a place to perform it. The Fringe bills itself as the largest artistic festival in the world. And if that were not enough, there is a film festival, a jazz festival, a television festival, and (some years) a book festival that also run simultaneously with the International Festival.

Conclusion

I don’t know if we’ll ever return to Edinburgh. I would love to, but traveling to Europe is not something we can do every year, and there are probably too many places that we have not yet visited for us to be retracing past steps. If you have not been to Edinburgh, though, I highly recommend that you visit at some point, if possible. It’s a wonderful place and visiting is a much richer experience than I can convey in words and images. And Edinburgh was just the beginning of our travels in Scotland. Look for an updated post on the Isle of Skye, and perhaps one or two others down the road.

Originally posted by Alan K. Lee, September 16, 2020. Updated and re-posted July 10, 2023.

Chihuly Garden and Glass

By Alan K. Lee

I was completely blown away by Dale Chihuly’s incredible glass sculptures when I first visited Chihuly Garden and Glass in Seattle. Whenever I’m in Seattle I try to incorporate another visit and the impact of his work has never lessened. The photos here are of his works displayed at Chihuly Garden and Glass. Elsewhere in the Northwest, his work can also be seen at the Museum of Glass in Tacoma and the Bridge of Glass, which spans I-705 and connects downtown Tacoma and the Museum District with the Museum of Glass and the Thea Foss Waterfront.

Chihuly is a Pacific Northwest native. He was born in Tacoma in 1941, graduated from Woodrow Wilson High School in 1959, and attended the College of Puget Sound and the University of Washington, where he majored in interior design. He briefly studied art in Florence, Italy before returning to the U.S. and re-enrolling at Washington.

It was at the University of Washington that he began working with glass, first experimenting with incorporating shards of glass into tapestries. He began blowing glass in 1965. He earned a Bachelor of Arts degree in interior design from the University of Washington in 1965, a Master of Science degree in sculpture from the University of Wisconsin at Madison in 1967, and a Master of Fine Arts degree in sculpture from the Rhode Island School of Design in 1968.

He worked for a time at the Verini glass factory in Murano, Italy, and taught at the Haystack Mountain School of Crafts in Deer Island, Maine. In 1971 he co-founded the Pilchuk Glass School in Stanwood, Washington. He later taught at the Rhode Island School of Design for more than a decade.

In 1976 he was involved in a head-on car crash in England that left him blind in his left eye. And in 1979 he dislocated his right shoulder in a body surfing accident and could no longer hold a glass blowing pipe. That led him to hire others to do the actual glass blowing for him. He adopted a teamwork approach to glass sculpture that he first experienced in Murano that has allowed him to create works of a size that could not be done by a glass blower working alone.

Chihuly’s work is displayed in more than 200 museums, including a large permanent exhibit at the Oklahoma City Museum of Art, and is sold in galleries around the world.

Chihuly Garden and Glass opened in 2012 in the Seattle Center, next door to the Space Needle. It includes indoor and outdoor exhibits, a bookstore and gift shop, and a full service bar offering beer, wine, cocktails, and a limited food menu. Regular price adult admission to Chihuly Garden and Glass runs from $35 to $42.50. Discounts are available for seniors and children, and for late entry (after 6pm). Hours vary slightly with the seasons. The Seattle CityPass Card gives you entry to the Space Needle and other Seattle attractions as well as Chihuly Garden and Glass. Check the websites linked below for more information.

Useful links:

Chihuly Garden and Glass website Seattle Center and the Space Needle

Tacoma Museum District Museum of Glass website

Seattle CityPass Card

Originally posted July 3, 2018. Most recently updated October 3, 2025

All photos by and the property of the author.