camping Archives - Pacific Northwest Explorer

Zion Canyon

The southwestern United States is a wonderland of deserts, mountains, and canyons. Zion Canyon is among the most spectacular of the Southwest’s many canyons, maybe second only to the Grand Canyon. And while the vast majority of visitors to the Grand Canyon never venture below the canyon rim, Zion is much more accessible.

At Zion, you’re in the canyon, surrounded by the red and white Navajo sandstone walls of the canyon that tower as much as 2600 feet above you. Being immersed within Zion Canyon is a much more intimate experience than just looking down into the Grand Canyon. Everyone should visit the Grand Canyon at least once, but if I had to choose between visiting the Grand Canyon or Zion Canyon, I’d take Zion.

Getting There

By car, Zion Canyon is 165 miles from Las Vegas and 305 miles from Salt Lake City. If you’re flying, Delta flies to the nearby Cedar City and St. George regional airports from their Salt Lake City hub. United flies to St. George through it’s Denver hub, and American also flies to St. George through its Phoenix hub. There does not appear to be any commercial service from Las Vegas to either Cedar City or St. George. Check the airline websites or your travel agent for details.

Springdale

The small town of Springdale, Utah is the gateway to Zion Canyon. There are a variety of lodging and dining choices in Springdale, along with services such as gas stations and grocery stores, making it a good base for your exploration of the canyon. Springdale is a pretty town with a number of attractions itself, so budget some time to explore the town. If you’re an art lover like my wife and I, DeZion Gallery, Sorrelia Gallery, Worthington Gallery, David J. West Gallery, and Tribal Arts Zion are all worth a visit. One of David West’s photographs hangs on my living room wall.

Getting Around

Private vehicles are not allowed in Zion Canyon beyond Canyon Junction (unless you are staying at Zion Lodge). The National Park Service operates two free shuttle bus routes. The Springdale Shuttle makes nine stops in Springdale and at the park’s pedestrian and bicycle entrance near the Zion Canyon Visitor Center. The Zion Canyon Shuttle runs from the visitor center to the Temple of Sinawava, with numerous stops along the way. The shuttles are wheelchair accessible, strollers can be taken on board, and they have bicycle racks (electric bikes do not fit on the racks, though). Check the park’s website for current information and shuttle schedules.

Bicycling is permitted on all park roadways and on the Pa’rus Trail. All other park trails, off-trail routes, and the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel are closed to bikes. There are a number of places in Springdale where you can rent bikes and there are also numerous companies offering bicycle tours of Zion. Biking the canyon is a good alternative to riding the shuttle. From the Zion Canyon Visitor Center to the Temple of Sinawava at the end of the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is about eight miles, with a few moderate hills along the way.

If you drive an electric vehicle, two charging stations are located within Zion National Park, one at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center and the other at the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center in the north end of the park. You can purchase a $5 pass code at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center that is valid for three days at either of the park’s charging stations. In Springdale, there are three Tesla charging stations (as well as others in nearby communities). Electrify America stations are located in St. George and Cedar City. ChargePoint and SemaConnect stations can be found in St. George.

Where to Stay

Dozens of hotels, motels, B&Bs, and vacation rentals can be found in Springdale and the neighboring community of Rockville. Check the Zion Canyon Visitors Bureau website or Utah.com for lodging information. Cedar City and St. George offer even more choices. Rates run from under $100 per night to over $500. One option worth considering is Zion National Park Lodge , located within Zion Canyon (not to be confused with Zion Canyon Lodge, which is in Springdale, not in the canyon itself). Summer rates for 2024 start at $257 (plus tax) per night at Zion Lodge. Plan ahead, though. Reservations often need to be made several months in advance.

If you’re camping, Zion Canyon Campground in Springdale has 133 RV sites and 47 tent sites. Zion River Resort in nearby Virgin, Utah also has RV sites and cabins. There are two campgrounds within the national park near Springdale, South Campground and Watchman Campground. South Campground has 117 sites, but no hookups. Watchman has about 120 RV sites with full hookups and about 70 tent sites. South and Watchman both require advance reservations, except in winter. The small Lava Point Campground in the north end of the park is first come, first served, but has only six primitive sites. Check the park website for more detailed information. Reservations for the South and Watchman campgrounds can be made through Recreation.gov.

Where to Eat

Probably no one comes to Zion for the food, but Springdale offers a number of dining options. Oscar’s Cafe, Spotted Dog Cafe, Kings Landing Bistro, and Bit and Spur Restaurant and Saloon all get good reviews. Zion National Park Lodge in the canyon has two restaurants, as well. The Red Rock Grill in the main lodge is a full service restaurant open for lunch and dinner. The seasonal Castle Dome Cafe adjacent to the lodge offers burgers, hot dogs, and snack food. And, Zion Canyon Brew Pub in Springdale offers a full food menu in addition to a variety of craft brews.

Hiking in Zion Canyon

Zion National Park offers more hiking options than I can list here, from the 0.4 mile Archaeology Trail in Zion Canyon to the 47 mile (one way) Trans-Zion Trek from the East Entrance to Lee’s Pass in the Kolob Canyons section of the park. Popular hikes in Zion Canyon include the 3.5 mile round trip Watchman Trail and Pa’Rus Trail hikes near the South (Springdale) Entrance, the Emerald Pools Trail, the West Rim Trail, and the strenuous (five miles roundtrip with 1520 feet of elevation gain) Angel’s Landing Trail. Hiking the Angel’s Landing Trail now requires a permit. Permits are limited and are awarded via a lottery system. Check the park’s website for information on applying for a permit.

One of the most spectacular hikes in the canyon is The Narrows. There is no trail through The Narrows – you’re hiking the bed of the Virgin River through a narrow canyon no more than 40 feet wide in places. If you’re interested in hiking The Narrows, be sure to check with the park rangers at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center. No permit is required, but The Narrows may be closed to hiking due to the possibility of flash floods. Thunderstorms many miles north of the park may lead to sudden and potentially life threatening rises in the river level with no warning, even when the park is sunny and cloudless. But if it’s doable safely, it’s a fantastic and unique hiking experience.

Trails outside of Zion Canyon (and all canyoneering routes) require a wilderness pass. Most are available online through the park’s website, but permits for some trails are only available in person.

Other Things to do in and near Zion Canyon

If you’re young and adventurous, canyoneering may interest you. Canyoneering involves traversing canyons, primarily slot canyons, that do not have established trails. Some, but not all, routes require technical rock climbing or rappelling skills. Since canyoneering permits within Zion National Park go quickly, advance planning is required. If you’re new to the sport, a guided canyoneering trip is probably the best way to go. There are a number of canyoneering guides, including ZionGuru, Zion Rock and Mountain Guides, and Zion Adventure Company, that offer a variety of trips for all skill levels, including family tours.

One hour and three hour horseback rides within the park can be booked through Canyon Trail Rides.

Mountain biking tours are available from a number of tour companies in Springdale. Note that these tours are outside of the park. I have no personal experience here, but from their websites they look to be pretty scenic and more than a little adventurous. Check the tour company websites for pricing and other information. Some offer discounts if you bring your own bike.

Off road vehicle tours are also available from a variety of providers. Like mountain bike tours, these are outside of the park. Again, I have no personal experience, so can’t make any recommendations, but the tours are popular.

Kolob Arch (National Park Service photo)

When you’ve finished exploring Zion Canyon, take a drive to the Kolob Canyons area in the north end of the park. This is an area that many visitors to Zion skip, but shouldn’t. Stop at the visitor center just off I-15 at Exit 40, then drive to the Kolob Canyons Viewpoint at the end of the road and hike the short Timber Creek Overlook Trail. If you’re up for more of an adventure, take the 14 mile out and back hike to Kolob Arch. This is a strenuous hike and should only be done by experienced hikers in good condition, but the reward is a view of the second largest free standing arch in the world (second only to Landscape Arch in Arches National Park). The trail to Kolob Arch starts at Lee’s Pass on the Kolob Canyons Road.

Outside of Zion

Often overlooked, Cedar Breaks National Monument, about 60 miles north of Zion Canyon, is an easy day trip and well worth a visit. Bryce Canyon National Park is only about 80 miles from Springdale, so it’s another easy day trip (but is spectacular enough you’ll want to spend a few days there). Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park is a short ways off the road to Bryce and is also worth a stop, as is Kodachrome Basin State Park, just east of Bryce. And if you’ve got another few days (or weeks), the sprawling, nearly one million acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument stretches from Bryce Canyon east to Capitol Reef National Park.

I can pretty much guarantee that no matter who you are or where your interests lie, a trip to Zion National Park will be an adventure you will not soon forget.

Originally posted June 14, 2021 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted March 15, 2024.

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Winter Hikes at Silver Falls

The following is an edited and expanded version of a post first published (in a different format) on this site on December 31, 2019.

Winter Hikes at Silver Falls

Where: Silver Falls State Park, Oregon, USA

Distance: One to eight miles

Elevation gain: 300 to 800 feet

Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Map: Oregon State Parks map and brochure

Overview:

Winter is closing in, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t still good hiking options in the Willamette Valley. Silver Falls State Park near Silverton, Oregon offers a number of loops and out and back hikes from barely one mile to nearly eight miles in length that take you to one or more of the eleven named waterfalls in the park. And there are back country trails in the park offering even longer hikes (though no waterfalls).

Silver Falls has been called the crown jewel of the Oregon state parks system. You’ll get no argument from me. It’s a spectacularly beautiful and unique place. Where else can you see 10 (or more) waterfalls on a single hike? I grew up in Salem, about a 30 minute drive from the falls. I’ve been there countless times, and it has never failed to delight and sometimes amaze me. When I started this blog in 2018, Silver Falls was my first post.

Winter can bring snow and ice and dangerous conditions to the trails in the park. But at an elevation of about 1500 feet, the park isn’t high enough for snow to remain on the ground all winter. And on my last winter visit to the park the temperature was in the mid 40s and there was no sign of snow.

Getting there:

Silver Falls State Park is located about fifteen miles east of Salem, Oregon. Coming from Salem or south, take Ore Hwy 22 east and look for signs to Silver Falls. The turn off onto Ore Hwy 214 is about five miles east of Interstate-5. The South Falls day use area is about 15 miles from Hwy 22. Coming from the north, take exit 271 off I-5 at Woodburn. Proceed through Woodburn on Ore Hwy 214, which then takes you through the towns of Mount Angel and Silverton. The park is about 12 miles beyond Silverton.

Trailheads:

There are four trailheads in the main canyon area. By far the largest parking area is at South Falls. There is a small parking area (eight spaces) at the Winter Falls trailhead. The North Falls and new North Canyon trailheads have parking for 30-50 vehicles. There are no facilities at the Winter Falls trailhead, but the other three have restrooms and drinking water available. The South Falls area also has a cafe and a nature store. All parking areas require an Oregon State Parks day use pass. Daily passes are $5 and can be purchased at the South Falls, North Falls, and North Canyon trailheads. Annual passes are $30 for one year and $50 for two years, and can be purchased online through the at the Oregon State Parks website.

The South Falls-Myrtle Ridge hike:

This 2.2-mile loop is a good option if you don’t have time to do any of the longer hikes possible in the park. Starting at the South Falls parking area, make your way to the creek above the falls and follow it downstream to the viewing area at the top of the falls. At 177 feet, South Falls is the highest falls on the north or south forks of Silver Creek and the second highest in the park. From the top of the falls the trail descends to a good vantage point a short way down the trail. Just below the first viewpoint look for a signed side trail to Frenchie Falls. This is the eleventh named falls and the smallest by volume, but it’s worth a look. Back on the main Canyon Trail there are several more places where you can get a good view of South Falls.

Continue down the main trail, which will take you behind South Falls. Here you will be between two layers of the Columbia River Basalt lava flows that are about 15-16 million years old. You’ll be tempted to linger behind the falls because it’s a pretty cool spot, but be prepared to get wet. Spray from the falls often soaks the whole “cave” behind the falls.

Below the falls there are several good viewpoints. Just downstream of the falls you’ll come to the first trail junction. The trail across the bridge will take you back to the parking area for a one-mile loop hike.

Continuing on the Canyon Trail, you’ll next come to Lower South Falls at approximately the one-mile mark. Here the trail also goes behind the falls. Below the falls, you’ll come to the junction with the Maple Ridge Trail at the 1.4-mile mark of the hike. Take the Maple Ridge Trail and climb out of the canyon.

Along the rim of the canyon the Myrtle Ridge Trail takes you through a world of moss and ferns. In the summer it’s shaded by the many Bigleaf Maples and Douglas Firs that line the trail, but in the winter it’s more open and, if you’re lucky enough to get some sunshine, the moss-covered trees and rocks and the ferns can be a vibrant green that is captivating. There wasn’t any sunshine on my last winter hike there, but the moss and ferns still provided a shot of greenery that contrasts with the darker green of the conifers above. Follow the Myrtle Ridge Trail back to the South Falls day use area where you started.

South Falls-Winter Falls loop:

The South Falls-Winter Falls loop is a longer hike (approximately 4.5 miles) than the South Falls-Myrtle Ridge loop. Follow the trail as described above, but at the Myrtle Ridge Trail junction, continue on the Canyon Trail. Here the Canyon Trail leaves the south fork of Silver Creek and joins the north fork. Following the north fork upstream, look for an intermittent waterfall across the creek at the 1.9-mile mark.

The trail then takes you to Lower North Falls (30 feet) at the 2.4-mile mark. Just above the falls a side trail leads to Double Falls, the highest in the park at 184 feet (combined drops). The volume of water flowing over Double Falls is much less than the falls on the two forks of Silver Creek, but still worth a look.

Next up is Drake Falls (27 feet), then the 106-foot drop of Middle North Falls. A side trail here leads behind the falls, but dead ends on the other side. Back on the main trail, you will come to the junction of the Winter Falls Trail at the 2.9-mile mark. Take the Winter Falls Trail to the base of the falls. Like Double Falls, Winter Falls is on a tributary creek with less volume than either fork of Silver Creek.

From the base of the falls, continue up the trail to the rim of the canyon and return to the South Falls day use area on the Rim Trail.

Other winter hikes:

The new North Canyon trailhead and North canyon Trail makes possible a new loop hike that I’m calling the North Canyon Loop that takes you to North and Twin Falls. And the 0.6-mile out and back hike to Upper North Falls is an easy addition to extend the hike to 3.0 miles. And of course the full 7.2-mile Trail of Ten Falls is doable year-round.

Other area attractions:

The Silverton area has a number of decent places to grab a bite to eat or a pint of beer after your hike. Try the Silver Falls Brewery and Alehouse in Silverton or the Benedictine Brewery near Mount Angel that is operated by monks from the Mount Angel Abbey. Silverton is also home to the Oregon Garden, one of the state’s leading botanical gardens. Next door to the Oregon Garden is the Gordon House, the only surviving Frank Lloyd Wright designed house in Oregon.

Posted November 27, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Hosmer Lake, Central Oregon

Hosmer Lake is located just off the Cascade Lakes Highway, about 30 miles west of Bend, Oregon. The water is cold and crystal clear, and the scenery is spectacular. Mount Bachelor (elevation 9065 feet) rises only a few miles to the east, and the 10,358-foot South Sister and 9173-foot Broken Top are only slightly farther away, in full view to the north.

The photos here are from a summer day of kayaking on Hosmer a few years ago.

Hosmer Lake is an interesting body of water, well on its way to becoming a marsh or a meadow (in a few thousand years, perhaps). Big Marsh, about 40 miles to the south is an example of a former lake that has become all marshland. The technical term for this process is lake succession if you’re interested in learning more about it.

Hosmer Lake is a mix of open water and reeds, rushes, water lilies, and other marsh plants. Motorized craft (except for electric motor powered) are not allowed on the lake, which makes it ideal for kayaking or canoeing. It’s also not a big lake at 160 acres, so you can easily explore it all in an afternoon.

Hosmer is a popular fishing destination because it is one of the few lakes in Oregon that are stocked with Atlantic salmon. According to the Oregon Dept. of Fish and Wildlife, the Atlantic salmon average 16 inches in length and range up to 22 inches. It’s also stocked with brook trout, which run only slightly smaller. It is a fly fishing only lake, so that limits its use somewhat. My wife and I have kayaked there a number of times, and it’s never been crowded.

Hosmer Lake is also a popular birding area. Waterfowl and shore birds, such as American Bitterns, Virginia Rails, Sora, and Wood Ducks, are common. Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds are abundant during the breeding season and into the fall. And Clark’s Nutcrackers, Gray Jays and other birds can often be seen in the forest surrounding the lake. The relatively uncommon Three-toed and Black-backed Woodpeckers are also found in the surrounding area.

Elk and black bear also frequent the area. And let’s not forget the mosquitoes. Forget your insect repellent at your own risk here. Early in the season is especially bad.

At an elevation of 4966 feet, the recreational season is short at Hosmer. There may be snow and the lake may be still frozen until late May or even into early June some years, and the first snow in the fall can come anytime after the middle of September. But the short summer is glorious.

Hosmer is a good place to pitch a tent or park your RV. There are two small forest service campgrounds on the lake that have about 35 sites between them. Note that no water is available at theses campgrounds, so campers will need to bring their own. Water is available at Little Fawn Campground (8 sites) on the south end of nearby Elk Lake and there are many other forest service campgrounds in the surrounding area. There is also a resort at the north end of Elk Lake.

Hosmer Lake is fed by Quinn Creek, which flows into the north end of the lake. Quinn Creek is narrow and shallow, but it is possible to paddle up it for a ways. When we were there last, downed trees blocked our passage a few hundred yards from the mouth of the creek. We hauled our kayaks out of the water at that point and hiked along the creek to a small waterfall where we ate lunch and lingered awhile before heading back out on the water.

Recalling our visits to Hosmer Lake, I’m eager now to get back to the area and get back on the water again. It’s a beautiful place, and one of my favorite destinations. Hosmer Lake is located in the Deschutes National Forest. Check the Forest Service website for information on forest fire danger and possible use restrictions.

While Hosmer Lake is a worthy destination in its own right, there are plenty of other attractions in the immediate area. Elk Lake, a popular fishing and camping spot, is just west of Hosmer Lake. Sparks Lake, to the northeast, is another good canoeing and kayaking destination. There are a number of other lakes along the Cascade Lakes Highway, many trailheads along the highway that give access to the Three Sisters Wilderness, and many campgrounds in the area.

Nearby Mount Bachelor Resort is one of the prime alpine and Nordic ski areas in the Northwest, but it’s also worth a visit in the summer. Take a chair lift to Pine Mountain Lodge at the 7748 foot level and dine at the restaurant there. Then, if you’re adventurous enough, you can take the 3-stage, 1.3-mile long zip line that descends nearly 1400 vertical feet to the base of the mountain. Or just ride the chairlift back down and enjoy the magnificent views of the South Sister, Broken Top, and the surrounding area.

Originally posted December 10, 2018 by Alan K. Lee

Most recently edited and updated September 25, 2023

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Clear Lake Loop Trail

Clear lake Loop Trail

Where: Upper McKenzie River Valley, Willamette National Forest, Oregon

Distance: 5.5 miles

Elevation gain: Minimal

Difficulty: Easy

Overview:

Clear Lake is one of the clearest (as the name would suggest), cleanest, coldest, and most beautiful lakes in the Cascade Range. It’s also the headwaters of the spectacularly beautiful McKenzie River. This hike takes you through the forest and lava fields around the lake, with great views of the lake from all sides.

Note that the trail along the west side of the lake may be closed periodically to protect bald eagle nesting sites. Call the McKenzie River Ranger Station at 541-822-7254 for more information. (The Ranger District’s website wasn’t much help, and the link to their email didn’t work).

Map: Oregon Hikers

Getting there:

Clear Lake is located along Oregon Hwy 126 about 65 miles east of Eugene. From the Portland area, take I-5 south to exit 253, then travel east on Ore Hwy 22 for 79 miles to the junction with US Hwy 20, go west for three miles, then turn south on Ore Hwy 126. The lake is about three miles south of the junction.

Trailheads:

You can start this hike from either the day use area at Clear Lake Resort on the northwest side of the lake or Coldwater Cove Campground on the southeast side. The resort has a small cafe (open limited hours) and restrooms, and drinking water is available. There is no charge to park and a Northwest Forest Pass is not required. The Coldwater Cove trailhead is at the end of Forest Road 770, about one mile east of Hwy 126 just south of the lake. There are vault toilets at the campground and drinking water is available. Parking requires a Northwest Forest Pass. The trail description below starts and ends at the resort.

The hike:

If you’re starting the hike at the resort, park in the day use area at the resort (unless you are renting one of the cabins or the yurt) and walk north through the resort along the shore of the lake. In a few hundred yards you’ll see the trailhead on your right.

The first part of the trail takes you through the forest with filtered views of the lake. Several side trails lead down to the lake for better views. The trail continues north away from the lake, then crosses Ikenick Creek and doubles back to the lake before turning north again for about a half mile to a junction with the McKenzie River National Scenic Trail. Here the trail crosses Fish Lake Creek. (The Forest Service was in the process of replacing the old single log bridge when I was last there and the bridge was closed, but the creek was dry and you could scramble down the slope and climb back up the other side. The new bridge should be in place by the summer of 2023.)

After crossing Fish Lake Creek, the trail turns south and runs along the eastern shore of the lake to the Great Spring. This was the source of the McKenzie River before Clear Lake was formed about 3000 years ago when a lava flow damned the river.

From the Great Spring the trail follows the east shore through the lava fields to Coldwater Cove Campground, then through the forest to the south end of the lake where you’ll come to a trail junction. Turn right to return to the resort.

The trail crosses the lake’s outfall on a bridge that provides good views south to the beginning of the McKenzie River and north across the lake. Across the bridge, the trail turns north through the forest along the west shore of the lake. There is one good side trail that will take you to the lakeshore, but the main trail gives only limited views of the lake before you return to the resort where you started.

Other area attractions and activities:

There are too many other hikes in the area to list all of them, but two of the best are the 4.2-mile out and back hike to the Blue Pool on the McKenzie River, and the Waterfalls Loop Hike that takes you past both Sahalie and Koosah Falls on the McKenzie. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses Santiam Pass northeast of Clear Lake giving hikers access to both the Mount Jefferson Wilderness to the north and the Mount Washington Wilderness to the south. One of the many hot springs in the Cascade Range is Belknap Hot Springs, located about 15 miles south of Clear Lake. The hot springs are at Belknap Hot Springs Lodge and Gardens. Day use visitors can soak in one of the hot springs pools for a $10/hr fee.

Posted June 22, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos ©Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Lake Crescent and Vicinity

by Alan K. Lee

Lake Crescent, the nearby the Sol Duc Valley, and Hurricane Ridge are three of the prime attractions of Olympic National Park. My wife and I had the pleasure of visiting Lake Crescent and vicinity on an “escape from the pandemic” tour of the Olympic Peninsula in September 2020.

After spending three days in the magnificent Quinault Rain Forest, we made stops at Ruby Beach and Rialto Beach before heading on to Lake Crescent.

After checking in at Lake Crescent Lodge, we did a short but scenic and relaxing loop hike along the lake shore and through the forest east of the lodge. Lake Crescent lies in a glacier carved valley in the northern portion of Olympic National Park. The lake’s depth (nearly 600 feet) and clarity give the lake a brilliant deep blue color. Lake Crescent and nearby Lake Sutherland were once a single body of water, but a huge landslide about 7000 years ago divided the original lake into the separate lakes found today.

Lake Crescent Lodge, like Lake Quinault Lodge where we stayed on the first part of our trip, is one of the iconic grand lodges of the American West. Built in 1915, Lake Crescent Lodge is perhaps a little less grand than the other grand lodges, but it is no less significant in terms of its history and its romantic appeal. The main lodge is smaller than Lake Quinault Lodge, and the lodge rooms do not have private bathrooms. But there are many individual one and two bedroom cabins on the lake shore – the Singer Tavern Cottages and the Roosevelt Fireplace Cabins – that Lake Quinault and the other comparable lodges lack. More modern additions – the Storm King Rooms, Marymere Rooms, and Pyramid Mountain Rooms – are tucked into the woods a ways back from the shore. Our Storm King Room still had a view of the lake, though, and a nice balcony. All of the cabins and modern additions have private bathrooms.

As at Lake Quinault Lodge, the restaurant at Lake Crescent Lodge served only take out meals when we were there because of the corona virus pandemic. The lodge dining room was open for seating, however, so after our hike that first afternoon we claimed a window table looking out over the lake. Our meals were both very good, but Joan’s salmon “catch of the day” was a small (maybe 4 oz.) portion, and probably not worth the $28 price tag. My fish and chips were cheaper and more substantial, but we chose to drive to nearby Port Angeles for dinner the next two nights.

The next morning we hiked from the lodge to Marymere Falls, a picturesque 90 foot waterfall on Falls Creek. The trail is an easy 1.5 mile hike through old growth forest with minimal elevation gain to the lower viewpoint. From there the trail climbs steeply to an upper viewpoint. Both viewpoints offer unobstructed views of the falls.

My wife took her kayak out for a paddle on the lake that afternoon while I relaxed on our room’s balcony with a good book (Graham Greene’s Travels With My Aunt).

That evening we drove into Port Angeles, about 20 miles to the east, and dined at Next Door Gastropub. They have a good selection of beers and the Cuban pork sandwich that I had was quite good. After dinner we wandered around a bit, searching out some of the many public artworks scattered around the downtown area, before returning to Lake Crescent.

The following morning, we drove to the Sol Duc Valley west of Lake Crescent and hiked to Sol Duc Falls. Originally called “Sole Duck,” the spelling was officially changed to Sol Duc in 1922 to more accurately reflect its derivation from a Quileute language word meaning sparkling waters. The family friendly trail (less than a mile long) takes you through a dense forest with minimal elevation gain to the 48 foot falls. There the Sol Duc River breaks into a number of channels before making a sideways drop into a deeper gorge. There are many bigger and more spectacular waterfalls in Olympic National Park, but certainly none more scenic.

The nearby Sol Duc Hot Springs was once the site of a five star hotel. Built in 1912, the hotel lasted only four years, though, before burning down in 1916. The resort was rebuilt on a less grand scale in the 1920s and operated for a half century before closing in the 1970s. After being vacant for a number of years, it was renovated and reopened in the 1980s. Today the resort includes a restaurant and a variety of cabins with private bathrooms and modern amenities. Those staying at the resort have free access to a swimming pool, soaking pools, and hot tubs, all heated by water from the hot springs. People not staying at the resort can also enjoy the hot springs for a small fee.

A 17 unit RV campground that will accommodate RVs up to 36 feet is located a quarter mile from the resort. The RV campground sites have water and electric hookups, and there is a sewer dump station. A separate 82 unit “dry” campground is located nearby. The campground has restrooms, but no showers. The camp sites will accommodate small RVs, but do not have water or electric hookups.

After our hike to Sol Duc Falls we drove to the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center to do some more hiking and sightseeing. The visitor center is located 17 miles south of Port Angeles at an elevation of 5242 feet above sea level. Hurricane Ridge is the only alpine area in Olympic National Park accessible by car, which makes it very popular and means it can be very crowded, especially on summer weekends. We were there in the middle of the week in late September, though, so crowds weren’t much of an issue.

The Hurricane Ridge Road is paved, but winding with poor sight lines and several tunnels. It is also a popular challenge for cyclists because of the elevation gain, so go slow and watch for bicycles on the road.

The visitor center’s gift shop and restrooms were open, but the main part of the center was closed due to the corona virus pandemic. The rangers were manning an information desk outside on the sidewalk, though, where they were giving out maps and answering questions.

Several short loop and out and back hikes ranging from a half mile to a mile and a half take you from the visitor center to viewpoints with great views in all directions. Look for wildlife when you’re there. We’ve seen mountain goats there in the past, and on this visit a doe was grazing only a few feet off one of the trails, almost within arms reach. Past the visitor center, at the end of the road, you’ll find the trailhead for a longer 3.2 mile round trip hike to Hurricane Hill with even more spectacular panoramic views.

The following morning we somewhat reluctantly checked out of the lodge. Our six days in the Olympics were a much needed getaway from both the pandemic and the wildfires that had threatened many of the populated areas of western Oregon. We in the Pacific Northwest are lucky to have such a magnificent place so close at hand. Olympic National Park is a jewel worth visiting, no matter how far you have to come to experience it.

From Crescent Lake, we headed on to Port Townsend for the final part of our trip. Look for an upcoming post on Port Townsend, one of my favorite places in the Northwest, and home of the annual Wooden Boat Festival.

Originally posted November 7, 2020. Updated and re-posted November 9, 2022.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Chiricahua National Monument, Arizona

By Alan K. Lee

Chiricahua National Monument in the southeastern corner of Arizona is geological wonderland of rocks – hoodoos, balanced rocks, stacked rocks, rocks of all shapes and sizes.

The Chiricahua Mountains are one of a number of mountain ranges known as “sky islands” that run from the Sierra Madre Occidental in Mexico to the Rocky Mountains. The rock that is the central feature of Chiricahua originated as pyroclastic flows from a massive volcano just south of the monument that erupted about 27 million years ago. It is estimated that amount of material ejected in that eruption was more than 100 times that of the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens.

As with Bryce Canyon, the rock formations of the Chiricahua Mountains are more the result of wind erosion and the freeze-thaw cycle than erosion by running water.

Chiricahua National Monument was created in 1924 to protect the fantastic rhyolitic tuff rock formations. The original monument was a little over 4200 acres in size. Additions in 1938, 1978, and 1984 brought the size of the monument to its current 11,985 acres. Most of the park (10,340 acres) is designated wilderness.

Although the altitude at Chiricahua (from 5100 to 7300 feet) makes it cooler than many parts of Arizona, this is still Arizona after all, and it can get dangerously hot. Triple digit temperatures are possible from May through September. And despite this being part of the Chihuahua Desert, thunderstorms are an almost daily occurrences from early July into early September. Almost half of the monument’s annual rainfall of 19.3″ falls in the months of July and August.

April and May and are the driest months, with daily high temperatures varying from the low 70s to the mid 80s, and spring is probably the best time to visit. The days are also pleasant from mid-September to mid-November, but rain is more common than in the spring. Winters are much cooler, with snowfall and sub-freezing temperatures common from December through March.

Hiking is a popular activity at Chiricahua. There are 17 miles of trails in the park, with hikes of various lengths, from 0.2 to 9.5 miles. Trails range in difficulty from easy saunters to strenuous hikes with elevation gains of up to 1000 feet. Horses are also permitted (with restrictions) on many of the trails. As elsewhere in Arizona, carrying enough water is essential. The park staff recommend hikers carry at least one quart for each hour they plan to be out during the summer months. Sunscreen and a hat are also essential, even in spring and fall.

A free hiker shuttle runs from the visitor center to two of the more popular trailheads. Check in at the visitor center the day before or the morning of your hike to reserve a seat. The shuttle is limited to 14 people and reservations cannot be made on line or by phone.

Bird watching is another popular activity at the monument. More than 170 species have been recorded within the monument boundaries, and the American Bird Conservancy has designated Chiricahua National Monument an Important Bird Area. (And the San Pedro Valley, an internationally known birding hot spot, is only about 75 miles to the west). The monument also is home to 71 species of mammals, 46 species of reptiles, 8 amphibian species, and uncounted numbers of insect species.

People interested in the history of the area should check out the historic Faraway Ranch, just off the main road near the park entrance.

Chiricahua has never been a particularly popular place, owing mostly, I think, to its remote location and relatively small size. Even at the peak of its popularity, in 1993, it saw an average of only 350 visitations per day. In recent years the average has been about 150 per day. This is a place where it’s still possible to find some solitude, and it doesn’t take hours of hiking to find a quiet place to yourself.

There is a 26 unit campground in the park, but no other accommodations. The campground can accommodate RVs up to 29 feet (several reviews suggested that 20 feet is a more realistic max, though). The campground has running water and flush toilets, there are no RV hookups. Wilcox, 35 miles to the northwest, has a number of RV parks with full hookups, and has a variety of other accommodations for those that do not want to camp.

Chiricahua National Monument is not on a lot of people’s bucket lists, but it should be in my humble opinion. The scenery is outstanding, it’s a geologically interesting area, the biological mix of plant and animal species is interesting, and it’s unique. There’s no place else like it. It is well worth the 35 mile detour off of I-10 if you are traveling through the area, and is an end-point destination on its own that is worth considering. Combine a visit to Chiricahua with the many attractions in the Tucson area (only a two hour drive away), Karchner Caverns State Park, the old copper mining town of Bisbee, and the famous wild west town of Tombstone, to make a vacation the whole family will enjoy.

February 2022 update:

The visitor center is open daily from 8:30 to 4:30, but the museum exhibits are closed due to Covid-19. The hiker shuttle service is not operating, also due to Covid-19 protocols. Masks are required in all buildings and outdoor areas where social distancing is not possible. The historic ranch house at Faraway Ranch is closed for renovations. The campground is open. The park has experienced some storm damage and some of the roads may be closed temporarily, but the main road is open.

Originally posted April 28, 2020. Edited, updated, and re-posted February 5, 2022

Crater Lake

By Alan K. Lee

The Lake

Crater Lake makes a tremendous first impression. The first time a person sees the lake with their own eyes will likely be a sight they will never forget, especially if it’s a sunny day with the lake at its deepest blue. There just is no way to describe the depth and intensity of the lake’s color, and photos don’t really do it justice. If there’s a more beautiful lake anywhere in the world, I haven’t laid eyes on it.

Crater Lake is 1943 feet deep, making it the deepest lake in the United States, second deepest in North America, and ninth deepest in the world. It is also one of the cleanest and clearest lakes in the world. It’s that combination of depth and clarity that results in its intense deep blue color.

The caldera that Crater Lake occupies was formed 7700 years ago when the summit of 12,000 foot tall Mount Mazama collapsed after a massive eruption. Over time rain and snow filled the caldera to its present level. The lake has no outlet. The level of the lake remains nearly the same because the amount of evaporation from the surface of the lake closely matches the amount of precipitation falling on it in any given year.

Wizard Island formed sometime after the eruption that formed the caldera. It rises 770 feet above the surface of the lake, 2713 feet above the deepest point in the lake. It last erupted about 5000 years ago, but it is considered dormant, not extinct. Conceivably, it could erupt again at any time. Merriam Cone also erupted after the caldera was formed, but never reached the lake surface. Its summit lies almost 500 feet below the average lake level.

Phantom Ship, a remnant of an eruption 400,000 ago, rises 170 feet above the lake surface. Its formation predates that of Mount Mazama itself.

The Park

Crater Lake is such a stunningly beautiful place that it should be on everyone’s bucket list. It’s one of the few places I’ve ever been that seeing it for the first time could be a transformative, life changing experience. It was exactly that for William Gladstone Steel, an experience that ultimately led to the creation of Crater Lake National Park. Steel, known as “The Father of Crater Lake,” first laid eyes on the lake in 1885 after a journey by rail, stage coach, and on foot for the final 20 miles. That experience led to a 17 year quest to preserve, protect, and promote the lake. Largely through Steel’s efforts, Crater Lake was included in the Cascade Range Forest Reserve in 1893, and became the nation’s sixth national park on May 22, 1902. More information about the park can be found on the park website.

Crater Lake Lodge

Crater Lake Lodge sits on the rim of the caldera in the Rim Village. One of the grand lodges of the American West, the lodge has been welcoming guests since it opened in 1915, except during WWII and from 1989 to 1994 when the lodge underwent a complete restoration.

My wife and I recently spent three nights at the lodge. Although it lacks the amenities of a luxury hotel, our room was comfortable, with a private bathroom, and the location more than makes up any lack of luxuries.

The Rim Drive

Any visit to Crater Lake should include a drive around the lake on the 33 mile Rim Drive. The lake can be circumnavigated in little more than an hour, but plan to spend at least half a day.

You’ll want to stop at all of the viewpoints. Maybe combine the drive with a hike down to Cleetwood Cove and a boat tour of the lake. You can get off at Wizard Island and hike to the summit and then catch a later boat back.

For a more adventurous day, hike to the summit of Mount Scott, the highest point in the park. It’s a two mile hike to the summit with 1250 feet of elevation gain, so it’s not an easy hike (All Trails rates it “moderate”), but the view might just be worth the effort.

Hiking Trails

My wife and I are avid hikers, and Crater Lake offers the hiker a variety of options, from the very easy Pinnacles Trail to the more challenging Mount Scott Trail. Other trails of interest include The Watchman, Cleetwood Cove, Plaikni Falls, Garfield Peak, Pinnacles, and Annie Creek trails. All are very worthwhile outings. Check out the AllTrails website for detailed descriptions of the park’s many trails.

The Pacific Crest Trail passes through the park, but does not ascend to the rim of the caldera. Hikers on the PCT can take the Dutton Creek Trail that climbs up to the Rim Village, then hike the trail that parallels the West Rim Drive and reconnect with the PCT north of the lake.

The Pinnacles

Many visitors to Crater Lake don’t make the short side trip to the Pinnacles area, and even fewer hike the 1.4 mile out and back trail along the rim of the canyon, but it’s a worthwhile detour off the Rim Road.

Practical Info

Crater Lake is located in the southern Oregon Cascades, about 250 miles south of Portland, 140 miles southeast of Eugene, and 75 miles north of Medford. A number of private companies offer bus or van tours to Crater Lake from Medford, Bend, or Eugene, but there is no commercial bus or rail service to the park.

The south entrance to the park, the Mazama Village area, and the Rim Village are open year round. The north entrance and the Rim Drive are closed in winter.

There are two lodges in the park, Crater Lake Lodge in the Rim Village and The Cabins At Mazama Village that are open for the summer season. Crater Lake Lodge has 71 rooms, starting at $246/night. The Cabins At Mazama Village has 40 rooms, all at $160/night. Prices listed are for the 2024 season. Note that the concessionaire that operates both lodges is changing, so prices may also change. Check the park website (linked above) for current information.

There are two campgrounds in the park. Mazama Campground has 75 RV sites, 18 tent sites with electricity, and 121 tent sites without electricity. Tent sites start at $22. RV sites run from $32 to $44 per night. Mazama Campground is usually open from early June through late to September. Lost Creek Campground, located on Pinnacles Road, is a primitive tent only campground with 18 sites, operated by the park service. Lost Creek Campground is currently closed and will not be open for the 2024 season. Backcountry camping is allowed in the park by permit only.

Dining options in the park are somewhat limited. The dining room at Crater Lake Lodge is open to all visitors, but reservations can only be made by people staying in the park. The Rim Village Cafe offers “grab and go” sandwiches and salads (I had a pulled pork sandwich from there on our recent visit that was very good). It is open from 9am to 8pm in the summer and 10am to 5pm in the winter. The Annie Creek Restaurant in Mazama Village is open from 7am until 9pm. The Mazama Village Store sells packaged sandwiches and snacks.

Summer park entrance fees are $30 for private vehicles and $25 for motorcycles. Winter fees are $10 less. Snowmobilers, bicyclists, and pedestrians are charged $15 per individual. All entrance fees are good for seven days. Entry reservations do not need to be made.

Gasoline is available at the Mazama Village Store. There is a Tesla charging station just outside the Annie Spring entrance station near Mazama Village, but no other electric vehicle charging stations in the park.

Other lodging, dining, and services are available outside the park at Diamond Lake, Union Creek, and Fort Klamath.

Conclusion

if you’ve never been to Crater Lake, you’ve missed out on an experience available nowhere else in North America, and perhaps nowhere else in the world. The place is that unique and that fantastically beautiful.

Originally posted September 13, 2021. Most recently updated April 6, 2024.

Mount Lemmon, Arizona

By Alan K. Lee

If you’re ever in the Tucson area, consider making the drive to the top of Mount Lemmon. A paved road takes you to the summit, more than 6500 feet above the valley floor. Numerous viewpoints along the way provide spectacular vistas the mountain, the surrounding desert below, and the mountains beyond. And numerous trailheads provide access to the ridges and canyons beyond the road for those who want to lace up their hiking boots and immerse themselves in the desert or mountain environment.

The drive takes you through numerous climatic and ecological zones, from the iconic saguaro cactus of the Sonoran Desert at the base of the mountain to an aspen and ponderosa pine forest at the summit.

The summit of Mount Lemmon is only 17 miles as the crow flies from downtown Tucson, but you have to navigate your way across the city and then up the 30 mile long Catalina Highway. The highway is winding and slow, and there was a lot of tourist traffic when we were there. It takes about 90 minutes to make the drive from downtown Tucson to the top of the mountain, but you’ll want to stop and admire the views in numerous places, and you’ll want to spend some time exploring the top of the mountain, so allow at least half a day for the trip. But I guarantee that you will not be sorry you did.

Windy Point, about seventeen miles from the beginning of the highway in Tanque Verde, has got to be one of the most spectacular viewpoints in southern Arizona. You’ll want to stop here and just wander around for a while. Take in the views of Tucson and the desert far below, the mountains beyond, and the rock formations around you. About four miles farther up the highway you’ll come to the San Pedro Vista, which gives you a panoramic view east across the San Pedro Valley to the Galiuro Mountains.

Another couple miles brings you to the Palisades Visitor Center, with still more panoramic views. You can get information about the area there, and the non-profit Public Lands Interpretive Association operates a bookstore at the center. Another few miles up the mountain is the Aspen Vista Point, another place you’ll want to stop and explore, especially if you’re there in the fall when the aspens are pure gold.

I was surprised to find a small community, Summerhaven, near the summit of the mountain, and even more surprised to find a small ski area. Snow skiing is not something I would have ever associated with Tucson or any place in southern Arizona. But at an elevation of 9157 feet, the top of the mountain gets enough snow in the winter to support an active ski area. There’s also a small astronomical observatory on the summit. The Mount Lemmon Sky Center Observatory is operated by the University of Arizona, and provides public viewing programs using their 24″ and 32″ telescopes.

If you go, note that the summit of Mount Lemmon can be thirty degrees cooler than Tucson, so dress accordingly. And if you plan to do any hiking, avoid mid-summer if possible and always bring plenty of water. There are no sources of safe drinking water on any of the hiking trails in the area, to my knowledge.

My wife and I made the drive to the summit in October 2019 while in Arizona to visit my brother and attend a wedding. I had never heard of Mount Lemmon and I wasn’t keen on making that long of a side trip, but my wife convinced me that it would be worthwhile, and she nailed this one. Mount Lemmon is more than just worthwhile, and worth more than just a side trip. Mount Lemmon is a worthy destination in its own right.

Not only am I glad we took the drive, I wish we could have spent more time exploring the mountain. For those that do have the time, there are several picnic areas along the highway, a few places to eat in Summerhaven, and there are several campgrounds a short ways off of the highway if you want to spend more than a day on the mountain. If you don’t want to camp, Summerhaven also has a few rental cabins, and a newly built small hotel. Check the Mount Lemmon General Store website for more information (click on the attractions tab).

Note: The Catalina Highway is open as of the date of this post, but in the summer of 2020 the entire area was closed to the public because of the Bighorn Fire that burned 120,000 acres in the Santa Catalina Mountains. Photos taken after the fire showed some badly burned areas, but others that were largely untouched. All of the area is open again, including the Palisades Visitor Center, but some of the attractions and the businesses in Summerhaven may be closed due to the ongoing pandemic. But I wouldn’t let any of that stop you from making the drive if you’re in the Tucson area, or even just passing through. It’s too spectacular to pass up.

Posted April 25, 2021