Garden of the Gods, Colorado

Garden of the Gods

Introduction

My wife and I had the pleasure of visiting the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs on our trip to Colorado last summer (2023). The park is an unbelievably beautiful collection of soaring rock formations that, in my opinion, is truly worthy of national park status. But in fact, it is a Colorado Springs city park, not a national park. But it’s one of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring city parks you’ll find anywhere in the world. And to top it off, admission is free.

Geology

What is now the Garden of the Gods was a shallow inland sea 250 million years ago. When the sea evaporated, it left behind sand that formed dunes, which were in turn buried and compacted, forming layers of red sandstone. The uplift of the Rocky Mountains tilted the sandstone layers nearly vertically. Glacial erosion during the Pleistocene Ice Age sculpted the soaring spires of the present-day.

History

There is archaeological evidence of indigenous people’s use of the area dating to at least 1330 BCE. But native people’s presence in the area almost certainly predates that by centuries if not millennia. European presence dates to early Spanish explorers in the 16th century, followed later by French and American fur trappers in the 18th and 19th centuries. The area became part of the United States in 1803 as part of the Louisiana Purchase.

In 1859, Colorado City was founded and later became the capital of the Colorado Territory before the capital was moved first to Golden, then Denver. Colorado Springs was founded in 1871 just east of what became known as Old Colorado City. Colorado Springs grew rapidly and eventually Old Colorado City  became incorporated into the growing city, and is now a neighborhood west of downtown Colorado Springs.

The Park

In 1879 Charles Perkins purchased 480 acres of what is now the Garden of the Gods. After his death in 1907, his family donated the land to the City of Colorado Springs with the provision that it be a free public park. Garden of the Gods Park was created in 1909 and more than 110 years later the park remains open to the public free of admission.

Today the park spans 1341 acres of the Garden of the Gods and the adjacent Rock Ledge Ranch Historic Site. In 1971, 862 acres of the park was designated a National Natural Landmark.

The Visitor and Nature Center, located on W. 30th Street across from the park entrance road, is a great place to begin your visit. It includes an information center staffed by park employees, 30 educational exhibits, and a theater that shows a film about the park every twenty minutes.

The park is very popular and parking can be a problem, but there is also a large overflow parking area just west of 30th Street if the visitor center parking lot is full. There is a pedestrian tunnel under 30th Street to get from the overflow lot to the visitor center. The park also operates a free shuttle bus in the summer that runs from the visitor center to the center of the park with stops at the overflow parking area and the Rock Ledge Ranch Historic Site.

The twenty-one miles of hiking, biking, and horseback riding trails that wind through the spires, the numerous rock-climbing routes, and the abundant wildlife, not to mention the incredible rock formations, make the Garden of the Gods an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise. More than 130 species of birds can be seen in the park. Mule deer, bighorn sheep, coyotes, and red foxes also inhabit the park.

For more information on the park, go to the Garden of the Gods website.

Conclusion

Garden of the Gods is one of the highlights, and truly a must see, of any visit to Colorado. I had seen photos of the Garden’s rock formations, but those didn’t convey just how spectacular and how awesome the rock formations are (nor do the photos here). You have to see them in person to fully appreciate what a magnificent place Garden of the Gods really is.

Look for an upcoming post featuring Rocky Mountain National Park for more on our Colorado trip.

Posted November 8, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Smith Rock State Park

By Alan K. Lee

Smith Rock State Park in Central Oregon is a mecca for rock climbers, but it’s more than that. Its natural beauty also attracts hikers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, birders and wildlife lovers, fishermen, photographers, and countless others.

Several thousand climbing routes exist within the park, including more than a thousand bolted routes. Climbers literally come from all over the globe to climb here. And an extensive trail system within the park offers hikers a variety of routes of varying lengths and difficulty. Many of the trails are multi-use trails, open also to mountain bikers and horseback riders. Click here to view a map of the park trail system.

Thirty million years ago the area that is now Smith Rock was on the western rim of the Crooked River Caldera. Over time, nearby volcanic eruptions filled the caldera with ash that compacted into volcanic tuff. The tuff was later overtopped with basalt lava flows from vents about fifty miles away. The Crooked River then eroded much of that, leaving the formations we see today.

I’m not a rock climber, but I’ve been coming to Smith Rock on a fairly regular basis for more than half a century. Growing up, my family would often come to Central Oregon to camp and fish, and many times we would make the short detour to Smith Rock on our way home. I’ve been there when the park was almost deserted, something I will probably never see again. Park usage has grown exponentially in recent years, more than doubling in the five years between 2014 and 2019.

On summer weekends you need to come early to have a chance of finding a place to park. The parking areas fill up quickly, and it’s not unusual to see cars parked along both sides of the road leading to the park and people walking in the road. There has been a shuttle system proposed that would allow visitors to park in the nearby town of Terrebonne and bus into the park, but that (to the best of my knowledge) has yet to be implemented. Even during the week, and on spring and fall weekends, parking can be a problem.

The park’s popularity is understandable, but with that has come problems of overcrowding, illegal parking and camping, pedestrian safety, conflicts with local residents and adjacent land owners, degradation of the park’s natural areas, and other problems. Oregon State Parks has recently finalized an updated park master plan that will address those issues. Changes could include creation of a new park entrance, additional parking areas, installation of “smart gates” and elimination of roadside parking, relocation and expansion of the walk-in bivouac camping area, relocation and expansion of the visitor center, a new day-use area, new trailheads,  additional bridges across the Crooked River, a new trail to Terrebonne, and new composting toilets in the climbing areas.

Photo credit: Oregon State Parks

October 2023 update:

The trail bridge across the Crooked River that had been closed for reconstruction is now open. Construction of the the new, wider bridge (pictured above) was completed in early October.

Despite the crowds and other problems, Smith Rock is a Pacific Northwest bucket list destination, not to be missed. It’s a spectacularly beautiful place. But if you’re looking for a wilderness experience, you won’t find it at Smith Rock (except maybe in the middle of winter). If you don’t mind sharing the place with others, though, the park is large enough that visitors tend to spread out, and even at full capacity the park doesn’t feel overly crowded if you get a little ways away from the parking areas. (A recent visitor survey found that 69% of the respondents felt the park to be somewhat to very crowded, however.)

You can avoid the worst of the crowds and the hassles that the limited parking creates by visiting in the spring or fall during the week. Visiting in winter might even offer a bit of solitude, and the clear and cold days that are often found then can be one of the best times to photograph the magnificent rock formations. And they are truly magnificent.

The park is located just east of the town of Terrebonne, which is about 25 miles north of Bend, Oregon, and about 140 miles southeast of Portland. For more information, go to the Smith Rock State Park website, or the independent SmithRock.com site.

Originally posted on March 11, 2019. Updated most recently on October 11, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted.