Every year, hundreds of thousands of people visit the Oregon coast, lured by the spectacular scenery, the many miles of beaches, and the dozens of often charming and sometimes quirky small towns. The more popular places are crowded, often overcrowded, in the summer and fall, but if you know where to look you can find uncrowded, sometimes deserted, beaches, trails, and other attractions, even in the high season. Sometimes all you have to do is look east of Hwy 101. Beaver Creek is a prime example. It flows into the ocean at Ona Beach, located between Newport and Waldport on the central coast. Ona Beach is often crowded, but if you turn east off Hwy 101 at the Ono Beach access instead of west, you come immediately to a boat launch area on Beaver Creek. When I was last there, the boat launch parking lot was almost empty. The beach parking lot was full.
Before it reaches the ocean, Beaver Creek flows through a freshwater marsh that teems with wildlife. The marsh is critical habitat for Coho salmon, winter steelhead, and cutthroat trout. The creek and marsh are also home to beaver and river otter. Elk, deer, coyotes, black bears, and the occasional cougar also roam the marsh and adjacent upland areas. Beaver Creek is also prime birding territory. More than 75 species waterfowl and other birds inhabit the area. So, bring your binoculars and camera, and keep your eyes open.
Beaver Creek State Natural Area can be explored both by boat and by foot. Launch your canoe or kayak at the boat ramp adjacent to Hwy 101, or drive a mile east on North Beaver Creek Road to access the hiking trails. Even in mid-summer you’re likely to encounter few other people (they’re all at the beach). I have not paddled Beaver Creek, so I’ll leave a description of that for a future post, but I have hiked the area. There is a nice view from the top of Snaggy Point, but the main attraction here is the peaceful and quietly beautiful area that is largely unknown to the general populace and almost completely unknown to the hoards of out of state tourists.
The Beaver Creek visitor center, 1.2 miles east of Hwy 101 on North Beaver Creek Road, would normally be a good first stop to acquaint yourself with the area. If it’s open, you can pick up an informational brochure and map of the trail system there. The map and brochure can also be downloaded from the Beaver Creek State Natural Area website (linked above). There is also a small parking area a few hundred yards east of the visitor center that may have the map and brochure if the visitor center is closed. You can also find a checklist of the birds found at Beaver Creek on the website.
The Beaver Creek Loop Trail is an easy, mostly flat trail that circles the upland area across the marsh from the visitor center. There are also connecting trails that take you to high points with some open views. The loop trail is about three miles long and takes you through a mixed forest of second growth conifer and alder forest. You can hike the loop in an hour, but give yourself 2-3 hours (or more) to linger and enjoy the peace and quiet. Click on the link above for a detailed description of the loop trail hike.
There are many reasons to visit the central Oregon coast. Beaver Creek by itself might not be a destination that warrants the trip, but if you’re a hiker, kayaker, or birder, or just want some peace and quiet away from other tourists, it makes for a pleasant side trip. And you might find that it’s a place you return to whenever you’re in the area. I know I’ll be back soon.
There are plenty of other places on the central Oregon coast to visit that can easily be paired with a trip to Beaver Creek to make for a pleasant day trip or weekend outing. Even if it’s crowded, Ona Beach is worth exploring. And a couple miles south, Seal Rock State Park is one of the more beautiful spots on the central coast. To the north, the Newport area has an abundance of places to find good food and drink. And Newport also has a couple of the premier attractions on the central coast.
In the South Beach area, just across the Yaquina bay Bridge from downtown Newport, you’ll find both the Oregon Coast Aquarium, one of the Pacific Coast’s premier aquariums, and Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Science Center, home to one of the world’s foremost marine education and research programs. Both are well worth a visit. The Oregon Coast Aquarium is open 10:00-5:00 daily. Ticket prices range from $15 for children 3-12 to $25 for adults. Admission for seniors (65+) and teens (3-17) is $20. Infants and toddlers get in free. Tickets can be purchased online or at the gate. The visitor center at the Hatfield Center is open 10:00-4:00 Thu-Mon. Admission is $5 (ages five and up). Tickets need to be purchased online on the center’s website.
Next time you’re in the Newport area, give Beaver Creek a look. I think you might be pleasantly surprised.
Posted February 25, 2024 by Alan K. Lee
All photos © Alan K. lee, except as noted
The park, originally called Short Sand Beach State Park, was created in 1931 through the efforts of Oregon’s first State Parks Superintendent, Samuel H. Boardman. Boardman was a fervent believer that of as much of the coast should be preserved in public ownership as possible. Many of the state parks along the coast were created under his stewardship. Short Sand Beach State Park was renamed in 1958 to honor former Oregon Governor 
Devils Cauldron is a spectacularly beautiful little cove on the north side of Neahkahnie Mountain. It can be reached by either a one mile hike from Short Sand Beach or a much shorter hike from where the Coast Trail crosses Hwy 101. To access the shorter route, drive south on Hwy 101 from the Short Sand Beach parking lots and look for a gravel parking area on the ocean side of the highway. Follow the Coast Trail north a short ways to a signed junction. The Devils Cauldron viewpoint is just a quarter mile walk from the parking area.
On your way back to the trailhead look for another trail branching off to the south. The junction here is unsigned and the trail is sometimes overgrown and impassable. But if it’s open, the trail leads to a narrow shelf of rock that falls away on three sides to the ocean below, and the cliffs of Neahkahnie Mountain tower over the viewpoint to both the north and south. It may not be a place for people with a fear of heights, but it’s one of the most awesome places on the entire coast.
Oswald West State Park is about a two hour drive from Portland, so it’s easily doable as a day trip if you’re from the Portland area or are visiting Portland. But if you want to make a weekend of it, there are plenty of other attractions on the north Oregon coast beyond Oswald West. 
When we got to the coast, the sky was almost cloudless. And we got the last available parking spot at the D River Wayside. Luck really was with us. There was a brisk, but not cold, breeze on the beach – perfect kite flying weather and a pretty near perfect day for just hanging out on the beach.
The festival featured a lot of very big kites, including a 30 foot diameter “soccer ball,” and quite a few performance kite fliers demonstrating their talents. One of the highlights for me was a flier named Spence Watson flying two quad strings kites. Normally it takes two hands to fly a single quad string. Flying one one-handed is a feat in itself, but he was flying one right-handed and one left-handed, and controlling each one perfectly. Pretty amazing.
Watching the kite flyers was as entertaining as watching the kites. It’s really a very physical dance that they’re doing. Their movements are perfectly coordinated with the music, but everyone’s moves are a little bit different. If you watch long enough you begin to see the different styles of the flyers. It’s really quite interesting.
There’s plenty to do at the festival for the whole family. Kids can take part in kite making classes, get their faces painted, meet a “real live” mermaid, learn about ocean conservation, fly their own kites, and, of course, just play in the sand.
I lived in Lincoln city for most of the 1980s, so we took a mid-day break and walked the five blocks to look at the house I lived in for part of that time. It’s been extensively remodeled and added on to, so it’s nothing like it was when I lived there.
Lincoln City hosts two kite festivals every year, a summer festival in June or July and a fall festival in September or October. There are numerous other kite fests up and down the Oregon and Washington coasts, including the Southern Oregon Kite Festival in Brookings in July, and the 
I love the eroded sandstone rock formations found at Hug Point. The layered sandstone of the point has been warped and folded by tectonic processes and eroded by wind and water into fantastic formations. The tidewater rocks are covered in green algae and seaweed, barnacles, and mussels. The rocks, sand, colorful vegetation, waves, and ever changing light make for great photo opportunities.
Hug Point State Park is located about five miles south of Cannon Beach. The point can also be reached from Arcadia Beach State Park, about a mile to the north. It’s an easy day trip from the Portland area, but there many other attractions in the area, so many visitors spend a weekend or longer in the area.
The nearby towns of Cannon Beach, Seaside, and Manzanita all have numerous motels, BNBs, and other accommodations, as well as many restaurants and cafes serving fresh seafood and other locally sourced foods. 
One note of caution, though. If you go, pay attention to the tides. The waterfall and caves that draw most of the visitors to Hug Point State Park are nestled between Adair Point, immediately north of the beach access, and Hug Point itself. At high tide it can be difficult or impossible to get around these two points, so it is possible to get trapped between them.
Overview: 
The God’s Thumb hike remained closed to the public until about a decade ago. Although people occasionally trespassed across private property to get to it, God’s Thumb remained largely unknown. But in 2013 Lincoln City purchased about 500 acres of property that was the site of a failed subdivision and negotiated an easement with the owner of the neighboring property, making God’s Thumb legally accessible to the public for the first time.
Trailhead:
The hike:
You don’t want to skip this because the view here is spectacular. The Pacific Ocean is spread out before you in all its glory. The Road’s End section of Lincoln City is directly below you. Lincoln City stretches out before you, with Devil’s Lake to the east and Siletz Bay to the south. The view extends south to Cape Foulweather. You might want to park yourself on the grassy summit and just sit for a while. Apparently, the local herd of elk also like the view because they often bed down here at night.
When you’re done taking in the view from The Knoll, return to the main trail and continue north. This portion of the trail is on the easement granted to the city by the property owner. The trail takes you through a spruce and hemlock forest and across a small meadow. Parts of the trail are steep, but the elevation gain is modest, and most people won’t have any difficulty. You’ll soon come to a trail junction. Stay left to continue on to God’s Thumb. You’ll pass through more spruce, hemlock and alder forest, and across several grassy meadows before the trail swings to the west and comes to another trail junction. The trail to the right comes up from the private Camp Westwind on the Salmon River Estuary. Stay left at the junction and you’ll soon see God’s Thumb in front of you. Stop here and admire the view of The Thumb and the surrounding cliffs, the two coves and beaches on either side of The Thumb, and Cascade Head to the north.
The trail then drops steeply down the slope and across along a narrow ridge before climbing very steeply up the slope to the summit of God’s Thumb. This section can be tricky to navigate and can also be slippery if the trail is wet. Some people choose not to venture down and then up to the summit. But if you do, you’ll be rewarded with magnificent views in all directions. Even if you don’t, the views you do get make the hike well worthwhile.
When you’re done taking in the views, return the way you came. When you reach the second trail junction, before you get to The Knoll, you have the option of taking the trail to the left for an alternate, slightly longer route back to the end of Devil’s Lake Boulevard where you left your car. Check the Oregon Hikers 
A few notes on parking:
Other area hikes and other attractions:
The peninsula is now an undeveloped county park. There has never been a campground, but in the past backcountry camping was permitted. That has changed, however, and overnight camping is no longer allowed.
Getting there: 
The hike:
Or, continue along the beach until you reach the south jetty at the mouth of Tillamook Bay. You’ll be rewarded with one of the least crowded beaches on the entire coast. You might have the beach to yourself even on summer weekends.
From the jetty you can return the way you came for 7.2 mile out and back beach walk or complete the 7.7-mile loop hike by following the jetty inland to the old jetty haul road and following it back to the trailhead. The road is rock and gravel with some sandy stretches. It runs along the bayshore, with good views of the shore and bay, with a couple of stretches in the pine and spruce forest of the peninsula interior.
Look for ducks and geese on the water and shorebirds along the water’s edge. This is one of the best birding areas for waterfowl on the coast.
Near the end of the hike look for a sign labeled Bayocean Townsite. Here a trail leads toward the beach to the old townsite. The trail loops south through what was then the bayfront (the whole peninsula has shifted a couple of hundred yards to the east and much of the old townsite is now under the waves), then returns to the haul road, where there is an interpretive display that tells the tale of the town and its demise. From there, return to the parking area. (If you started at the town of Cape Meares, hike from the Dike Road parking area through the dunes and return to Cape Meares on the beach.)
Farther south, 
Trailhead: Cape Lookout State Park
From there, the trail crosses to the north side of the cape and comes to a viewpoint at the 1.2-mile mark. Here you can see north to Cape Meares and Three Arch Rocks. Just west of the viewpoint, the original trail slid into the ocean about 30 years ago. The present trail detours away from the cliff through a boggy area on a boardwalk.
The trail returns to the south side of the cape and continues for another 1.2 miles, climbing and descending several times, to a viewpoint at the end of the cape, 400 feet above the ocean. Views there stretch from Cape Foulweather, 40 miles to the south, to Neahkannie Mountain, 40 miles to the north.
You’ll probably linger for a while at the end of the trail, but when you’ve had your fill of sightseeing and whale watching, return to the parking area the way you came.
I’ll cover four of my favorite northern Oregon coastal towns in this post: Cannon Beach, Gearhart, Manzanita, and Oceanside. They all have their own unique personality, but they all share a few things in common. They’re all small (none have more than 3,000 year-round residents), they’re all beachfront towns and the Pacific Ocean plays a big role in their culture and community, all but tiny Oceanside have an active arts scene, and you can find outstanding places to eat and drink in each of them.
Beyond the Snaggy Point Trail junction, the loop trail continues through the forest along the edge of the marsh to a junction with the Antler Overlook Trail, which connects to the Cooper Ridge Trail and provides another overcrossing of the upland area. The main loop trail then continues through the forest to the agricultural buildings mentioned in the winter trailhead description. Beyond the buildings walk up the service road for a couple hundred yards and look for the loop trail branching off to the left. The trail follows the edge of an open field.
The towns of Brookings and Gold Beach that bookend this stretch of the coast aren’t the main attractions here, but they’re both worth spending a little time to explore at the end of the day. Brookings is the bigger town, with more to see and do. Gold Beach is smaller and quieter, with more of a lost-in-time vibe. Both have decent dining options. If you’re ending your day in Brookings, try Black Trumpet Bistro, Superfly, or Oxenfre Public House for dinner. Chetco Brewing Company has a good selection of beers and there’s a vegan food truck there. In Gold Beach, try Barnacle Bistro, Port Hole Cafe or The Crow’s Nest.
History
One of the things Lord Bennett brought to Bandon from Ireland was gorse, a thorny, thick growing plant with bright yellow flowers. In Ireland it was used for privacy hedges and property boundaries because it is almost impenetrable. In Oregon it went wild and was one of the state’s first invasive plants. Besides being thick and thorny, it is also a very oily plant and burns readily. In 1936 a small forest fire started from a slash burn that got out of hand, spread to the gorse near the town, and then to the town itself, destroying all but 16 of the 500 structures in the town. The fire decimated the community and all but ended shipping to and from the harbor.
In my youth, Bandon was primarily a mill town, with fishing and agriculture secondary industries. Today, the lumber and plywood mills are long gone. There is still a small fishing fleet that operates out of the harbor, Bandon is still one of the leading cranberry producing areas of the country, and dairy farming is still an important component of the economy. But it is tourism that drives the economy today. The three main tourist draws are the beaches, Bandon Dunes Golf Resort, and the old town section of Bandon.
The Beaches
Access can be had from the south jetty area, from the wayside at the end of 11th Street, and from Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint on the Beach Loop Road. Farther south on the Beach Loop Road are other beach access points at Devils Kitchen and Bandon State Natural Area.
In 1939 the Coast Guard took over the lighthouse and deemed it unnecessary. The lighthouse was replaced by an automated light on the south jetty. The lighthouse sat abandoned for 24 years until it became part of the new Bullards Beach State Park in 1963. It was another 13 years before renovation of the lighthouse began, but it finally opened to the public in 1979. In 1991, during Bandon’s centennial celebration, a solar powered light was installed, ending the Coquille River Lighthouse’s 52 years of darkness. Further renovation of the lighthouse was done in 2007. The lighthouse closed to the public due to the Covid-19 pandemic and has yet to re-open, so you can’t go inside, but the road to it and the parking area are open.
Circles in the Sand
The 
All of the Bandon Dunes courses are consistently rated in the top 100 courses in the United States, and the 13 hole par three course, Bandon Preserve, is a challenge in itself. A few miles south of town, 
Good eats abound in Old Town. Start your day at Bandon Coffee Cafe, Jenn’s Joint Coffee Shop, Bandon Baking Company, or Shoestring Cafe. Stop at Face Rock Creamery to sample locally made cheeses and ice cream. Seafood lovers will want to sample the fare at Tony’s Crab Shack and Bandon Fish Market. Pub fare and quality draft beer are both to be had at Foley’s Irish Pub and Bandon Brewing Company. Decent and very affordable Mexican food can be had at La Fiesta. And if more upscale dining is what you’re looking for, try The Loft Restaurant and Bar or Alloro Wine Bar and Restaurant.
Accommodations
There is a campground at 
Getting There
Consider combining a visit to Bandon with a drive south along the spectacular 
The Circles in the Sand labyrinths are created on the beach below the Face Rock Wayside in 
Together with the rock formations at Coquille Point, a short distance north of the Face Rock Wayside, this stretch of beach is truly spectacular, well worth a visit at any time of the year. Combining a visit with the opportunity to experience Circles in the Sand makes for a unique and memorable experience.
Originally posted July 24, 2019. Updated and re-posted June 18, 2022.
The Connie Hansen Garden in Lincoln City, Oregon is one of the smallest botanical gardens in the Northwest, at just 1¼ acres, but don’t let the size fool you, it’s also one of the best.
Connie Hansen grew up in Oregon, but moved to California to attend the University of California at Berkeley, where she earned a degree in botany. She moved back to Oregon late in her life, after her husband’s death and her retirement from the faculty of UC Berkeley.
She began creating her garden in 1973 and she tended and continually expanded it for the next 20 years. After her death in 1993 a group of neighbors and local gardeners formed the 
The garden is located at 1931 NW 33rd Street in Lincoln City. It is open daily from dawn to dusk. Admission is free, but donations are welcomed. The Garden House, Hansen’s former home, now houses a small gift shop where you can find gardening supplies, books, and souvenirs. There is also a small art gallery. It is open from 10:00 to 2:00 Tuesday and Friday through Sunday from March to mid-December.
The Conservancy conducts spring, summer, and fall plant sales, and there are usually plants for sale at other times as well. Garden memberships are available through the conservancy website for those that want to support the garden.
Originally posted June 17, 2021. Updated and re-posted April 27, 2022.