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McKenzie River Waterfalls Hike

The McKenzie River Waterfalls Loop Trail

Where: Willamette National Forest, Oregon Cascade Range

Distance: 2.6 miles

Elevation gain: 400 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

Digital map: Oregon Hikers website

Overview:

The McKenzie River Waterfalls Loop hike gives you close views of Sahalie Falls, Koosah Falls, and the wild and spectacularly beautiful McKenzie River from both sides of the river. Or you can make a longer hike of it and start from Clear Lake Resort (6.4 miles round trip) or Coldwater Cove Campground (4.0 miles) on Clear Lake.

Clear Lake Resort on the northwest shore of Clear Lake and Coldwater Cove on the southeast shore both make ideal base camps for hiking the upper McKenzie area, as well as the Santiam Pass and McKenzie Pass areas. The resort has 14 cabins, four of which have two bedrooms, a kitchen, and a bathroom. The resort is popular, and reservations need to be made well in advance of your planned visit, especially for the four cabins with bathrooms. Coldwater Cove Campground has 44 camp sites. Water is available and there are vault toilets, but no RV hookups.

Getting there:

The upper McKenzie River area is about 65 miles east of Eugene, 50 miles west of Bend, and 130 miles southeast of Portland. From the Portland area, take I-5 south to exit 253, then travel east on Ore Hwy 22 for 79 miles to the junction with US Hwy 20, go west for three miles, then turn south on Ore Hwy 126. The Sahalie Falls trailhead is about five miles south of the junction. From Bend, take US Hwy 20 west to the junction with Ore Hwy 126 a few miles west of Santiam Pass, then south on 126 to the trailhead. From Eugene, take Hwy 126 east and then north to any of the three trailheads.

Trailheads:

The McKenzie Waterfalls Loop can be accessed from Sahalie Falls, Koosah Falls, or Carmen Reservoir. The Sahalie Falls trailhead has a sizeable parking area, but it’s a popular stop along the highway, and it is sometimes difficult to find a parking spot. The Koosah Falls and Carmen Reservoir trailheads are used less but also have smaller parking areas. There are restrooms and water available at the Sahalie trailhead. The Koosah and Carmen trailheads have vault toilets but no water. The Sahalie trailhead is located about a mile south of Clear Lake. The Koosah Falls trailhead is about a third of a mile south of the Sahalie trailhead. The Carmen Reservoir trailhead is just south of Koosah Falls on Forest Road 750 about three quarters of a mile west of Hwy 126.

The hike:

Starting at the Sahalie Falls parking area, which is about a mile south of Clear Lake, take the short, paved trail from the parking lot to the viewpoint for a great view of Sahalie Falls. Here the river plunges 75 feet over the edge of a lava flow from the Sand Mountain eruption about 3000 years ago. Even at the end of summer, when the river flow is at its lowest, the volume of water pouring through the notch in the cliff and crashing into the bowl below is impressive.

When you’re done taking in the view, retrace your steps and look for the trail to your right, which descends a set of steps. The trail follows the east bank of the river downstream past a series of cascades and a fifteen-foot, unnamed falls. This short section of trail is one of the most beautiful you will find anywhere. In about a quarter mile you’ll come to a viewpoint that gives a partial view of Koosah Falls, which, like Sahalie, drops 75 feet over the edge of another lava flow from Sand Mountain.

Stay right at the junction with the trail from the Koosah Falls trailhead. At the next junction, a side trail leads down a set off steps to the best viewpoint of Koosah Falls.

Back on the main trail, continue along the river. In another quarter mile you’ll come to a road along Carmen Reservoir. Cross the river on the road bridge and continue along the road for about 150 yards, then pick up the trail again at the Carmen Reservoir trailhead, to the right of the vault toilet and parking area.

In about 100 yards you’ll come to a junction with the McKenzie River Trail. Turn right and follow the trail north to another viewpoint of Koosah Falls.

Above the falls, a side trail leads to a good view of the fifteen-foot unnamed falls.

Farther along the main trail, another side trail leads to a view of Sahalie Falls. On the main trail there is another view of Sahalie. The trail passes close to the lip of the falls, then continues north through the forest and lava rock for about half a mile to a footbridge across the river. Cross the bridge and follow the trail south to your starting point at Sahalie. (If you started at Clear Lake, turn left after crossing the bridge to return to the lake).

Other area attractions and activities:

There are many other hikes in the area that are well worth doing in addition to the McKenzie Waterfalls Loop. Adding the 5.3 mile Clear Lake Loop Trail and the 4.2 mile out-and-back hike to the Blue Pool on the McKenzie River Trail make for a nice trio of hikes with amazing scenery – a beautiful mountain lake, a wild and scenic river with two spectacular waterfalls, and an almost otherworldly cobalt blue pool the color of Crater Lake. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses Santiam Pass only a few miles northeast of upper McKenzie area, giving hikers access to both the Mount Jefferson Wilderness to the north and the Mount Washington Wilderness to the south. And one of the many hot springs in the Cascade Range, Belknap Hot Springs, is only about 15 miles south of the McKenzie Waterfalls Loop. The hot springs are located at Belknap Hot Springs Lodge and Gardens. Day use visitors can soak in one of the hot spring’s pools for a $10/hr fee.

Originally posted December 4, 2022 by Alan K. Lee in a different format. Updated and re-posted September 28, 2023

All photos ©Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Hosmer Lake, Central Oregon

Hosmer Lake is located just off the Cascade Lakes Highway, about 30 miles west of Bend, Oregon. The water is cold and crystal clear, and the scenery is spectacular. Mount Bachelor (elevation 9065 feet) rises only a few miles to the east, and the 10,358-foot South Sister and 9173-foot Broken Top are only slightly farther away, in full view to the north.

The photos here are from a summer day of kayaking on Hosmer a few years ago.

Hosmer Lake is an interesting body of water, well on its way to becoming a marsh or a meadow (in a few thousand years, perhaps). Big Marsh, about 40 miles to the south is an example of a former lake that has become all marshland. The technical term for this process is lake succession if you’re interested in learning more about it.

Hosmer Lake is a mix of open water and reeds, rushes, water lilies, and other marsh plants. Motorized craft (except for electric motor powered) are not allowed on the lake, which makes it ideal for kayaking or canoeing. It’s also not a big lake at 160 acres, so you can easily explore it all in an afternoon.

Hosmer is a popular fishing destination because it is one of the few lakes in Oregon that are stocked with Atlantic salmon. According to the Oregon Dept. of Fish and Wildlife, the Atlantic salmon average 16 inches in length and range up to 22 inches. It’s also stocked with brook trout, which run only slightly smaller. It is a fly fishing only lake, so that limits its use somewhat. My wife and I have kayaked there a number of times, and it’s never been crowded.

Hosmer Lake is also a popular birding area. Waterfowl and shore birds, such as American Bitterns, Virginia Rails, Sora, and Wood Ducks, are common. Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds are abundant during the breeding season and into the fall. And Clark’s Nutcrackers, Gray Jays and other birds can often be seen in the forest surrounding the lake. The relatively uncommon Three-toed and Black-backed Woodpeckers are also found in the surrounding area.

Elk and black bear also frequent the area. And let’s not forget the mosquitoes. Forget your insect repellent at your own risk here. Early in the season is especially bad.

At an elevation of 4966 feet, the recreational season is short at Hosmer. There may be snow and the lake may be still frozen until late May or even into early June some years, and the first snow in the fall can come anytime after the middle of September. But the short summer is glorious.

Hosmer is a good place to pitch a tent or park your RV. There are two small forest service campgrounds on the lake that have about 35 sites between them. Note that no water is available at theses campgrounds, so campers will need to bring their own. Water is available at Little Fawn Campground (8 sites) on the south end of nearby Elk Lake and there are many other forest service campgrounds in the surrounding area. There is also a resort at the north end of Elk Lake.

Hosmer Lake is fed by Quinn Creek, which flows into the north end of the lake. Quinn Creek is narrow and shallow, but it is possible to paddle up it for a ways. When we were there last, downed trees blocked our passage a few hundred yards from the mouth of the creek. We hauled our kayaks out of the water at that point and hiked along the creek to a small waterfall where we ate lunch and lingered awhile before heading back out on the water.

Recalling our visits to Hosmer Lake, I’m eager now to get back to the area and get back on the water again. It’s a beautiful place, and one of my favorite destinations. Hosmer Lake is located in the Deschutes National Forest. Check the Forest Service website for information on forest fire danger and possible use restrictions.

While Hosmer Lake is a worthy destination in its own right, there are plenty of other attractions in the immediate area. Elk Lake, a popular fishing and camping spot, is just west of Hosmer Lake. Sparks Lake, to the northeast, is another good canoeing and kayaking destination. There are a number of other lakes along the Cascade Lakes Highway, many trailheads along the highway that give access to the Three Sisters Wilderness, and many campgrounds in the area.

Nearby Mount Bachelor Resort is one of the prime alpine and Nordic ski areas in the Northwest, but it’s also worth a visit in the summer. Take a chair lift to Pine Mountain Lodge at the 7748 foot level and dine at the restaurant there. Then, if you’re adventurous enough, you can take the 3-stage, 1.3-mile long zip line that descends nearly 1400 vertical feet to the base of the mountain. Or just ride the chairlift back down and enjoy the magnificent views of the South Sister, Broken Top, and the surrounding area.

Originally posted December 10, 2018 by Alan K. Lee

Most recently edited and updated September 25, 2023

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Key West and the Florida Keys

We all need to get away from home on occasion, sometimes far away, and the Florida Keys are about as far from the Pacific Northwest as you can get and still be in one of the fifty U.S. states – Honolulu is closer to Seattle than Key West is. And the Keys make for a great winter getaway. My wife and I had a great time in Key West on our only visit and I would love to return to someday.

The following was originally posted on this site a couple of years ago. I checked all of the links, but things can change, so check the Keys News website for current information if you’re contemplating a visit in the near future.

If you are thinking about a visit to Key West, the first thing you should do is track down a copy of Jon Breakfield’s book “Key West: Tequila, a Pinch of Salt and a Quirky Slice of America.” Breakfield and his wife were living in Scotland and took a winter vacation to Key West one year. Two days into their visit they decided not to go back to Scotland. Breakfield’s book is an absolutely hilarious account of their first year in Key West. It’s also a good introduction to the Key West culture and works as a weird sort of travel guide. After reading the book, you’ll probably want to visit The Bull, a bar on Duval Street, and the Whistle Bar, which occupies the floor above. The Whistle Bar has a wrap around veranda that is one of the best people watching perches in Key West. Both figure prominently in the book. And if you’re really adventurous, you might even want to venture up one more flight to the clothing optional rooftop bar called The Garden of Eden.

Key West is a quirky place, and nothing exemplifies that better than the city’s tongue in check secession from the United States in 1982. After the Border Patrol set up a roadblock on the highway between Key Largo and Miami (to stem the flow of drugs into the country via the Keys), creating huge traffic backups and inhibiting island residents from commuting to jobs on the mainland, the mayor and city council of Key West decided that if the Border Patrol was going to treat them like they were a foreign country by setting up a de facto border crossing station, they would become one. Thus was born the Conch Republic. The move was pure political theater (the mayor “surrendered” to the commander of the naval air station at Key West the day after declaring the Conch Republic’s independence), but it resonated with the anti-establishment sentiment common among island residents, and the spirit of the Conch Republic persists to this day.

Duval Street is the main drag in Key West. It’s lined with bars and restaurants, galleries, gift shops, and much more. You can eat your way down one side of the street and drink your way back up the other, if you’re so inclined. You’ll probably meet fifty other tourists for every local, but everyone will be having a good time and you won’t care that it’s not the real Key West.

Besides Duval Street, another major tourist draw is Mallory Square and the daily Sunset Celebration. Key West is known for its sunsets and didn’t disappoint on our visit. And every evening about two hours before sunset dozens of artists, crafters, food vendors, and street performers of every stripe congregate at Mallory Square to hawk whatever it is they’re selling to the tourists gathered there to watch the sunset. It’s weird, wild, and enormously entertaining. And then there’s a beautiful sunset to cap it all off.

Key West has plenty of places of interest beyond Duval Street and Mallory Square, too. The Hemingway House is another major tourist draw. Get there early if you’re going or buy your tickets online. The line was around the block both times we thought about taking a look. The Audubon House, Key West Lighthouse Museum, Eco-Discovery Center , Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park , the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum, and the Key West Aquarium are all worth a visit.

If you just want to hang out at the beach, Fort Zach Park has a nice swimming beach (with an adjacent bar). South Beach at the end of Duval Street also has a beach bar and grill. Higgs Beach is four or five blocks east and has a nice beach for sunbathing and swimming. And across the street, Astro City Playground is a fun place for kids to play. To the east of Higgs Beach are C.B. Harvey Memorial Rest Beach (no bar or other amenities) and Smathers Beach. Dog Beach, a couple of blocks east of South Beach, is literally for the dogs – a dog friendly, off leash park.

Key West has dozens of fine restaurants. All of the places we dined at were excellent. We had a couple of great breakfasts at a place called Camille’s Cafe, but it appears to be closed. Blue Heaven, Cafe Sole, and a Cuban restaurant called El Siboney all had excellent food. We also lunched at a couple of Duval Street eateries (whose names I’ve forgotten) that were very good. The Lobster Shack, The Flaming Bouy, Louie’s Backyard, Sarabeth’s Kitchen, Santiago’s Bodega (tapas), Cafe Marquesa, The Cafe (vegetarian), Ambrosia (Japanese), and B.O.’s Fish Wagon (fresh and very affordable seafood) are all highly rated, also.

Nature lovers will want to check out Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservancy, Indigenous Park, Key West Nature Preserve, and Key West Wildlife Center.

If you’re interested in fishing, Trip Advisor lists more than two dozen fishing charters and tours. If scuba diving is your thing, Finz Dive Center, Captain’s Corner Dive Center, and Lost Reef Adventures all offer diving tours and are highly rated.

Tourism drives Key West’s economy and there is no shortage of available accommodations , from luxury resorts to whole house rentals to budget motels and inexpensive Airbnb rentals. We went the Airbnb route and found a reasonably affordable room in Old Town. But the closer to the historic district and Duval Street, the more expensive the accommodations become, and the longer ahead that you will need to make reservations. It’s an advantage to stay within walking distance of Old Town, as parking is limited, but if you have a car and don’t mind spending some time looking for a place to park, staying in the New Town section or on Stock Island can save you some money. Key West is bicycle friendly, has a public transit system, and taxis are readily available (some with bicycle racks), so driving into Old Town is not strictly necessary, even if you are not staying close by. Uber and Lyft are also options.

The bottom line is there are as many reasons to visit Key West as there are tourists visiting. It’s a great party town and a great place to lounge on the beach and soak up the sunshine, but it’s much more than just that. Key West is soaked in history, has a great food scene, has great fishing and diving, and is located in an incredibly beautiful natural setting.

The other Florida Keys have their own attractions, too, and the drive from Miami to Key West is an attraction on its own.

Key Largo is the closest of the keys to the mainland and many of the residents commute to the mainland, but it has many attractions that draw travelers, too. It’s the self-proclaimed “dive capital of the world” and home to the world’s largest artificial reef, among other attractions. If fishing is your thing, Islamorada bills itself as the “sport-fishing capital of the world.”

There were a number of other interesting places in the Keys that we stopped at on our way to and from Key West. One of those was the National Key Deer Refuge on Sugarloaf Key. Key deer are tiny – not much bigger than a German shepherd. Another stop we made was Bahia Honda State Park, which has a nice swimming beach and clear waters in multiple hues of blue.

The Overseas Highway through the Keys is an engineering marvel and driving it is an amazing journey, even if you don’t stop at any of the Keys along the way. The Seven Mile Bridge itself is one of the main attractions in the Keys.

If you’re contemplating a visit, flying to Key West is an option, but I’d do as we did – fly to Miami or Fort Lauderdale, rent a car, and drive the Overseas Highway. Visit the other Keys and go diving, snorkeling, fishing, or just find an uncrowded beach and soak up the sunshine away from the crowds. And, of course, take in Key West and all it has to offer. You won’t regret it. And while you’re in Florida, the Everglades are only a short drive from Miami.

Originally posted by Alan K. Lee on August 10, 2018. Updated with Covid-19 info December 14, 2020. Updated and expanded September 15, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Skyline Trail, Mount Rainier

Skyline Trail Loop

Where: Mount Rainier National Park

Distance: 4.4 to 5.9 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: 1700 feet

Difficulty: Moderate to Hard (for distance and elevation gain)

Map:

Paradise area trail map and description (from the Mount Rainier National Park website).

Overview:

The Skyline Trail loop is one of the Pacific Northwest’s iconic hikes. Beginning at the Visitor Center in the Paradise section of the park, the trail takes you up the mountain with great views of the summit, awesome views of the Nisqually Glacier, and panoramic views south to the Tatoosh Range and Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams in the distance. The high point of the trail is just over 7000 feet in elevation (and still 7400 feet below the summit). The lower portions of the trail take you through alpine forest and mountain meadows. The upper part is all above timberline with open views in all directions.

The Paradise area is famous for its spectacular wildflower displays that carpet the meadows, including the alpine meadows above timberline. Look for deer and elk in the lower meadows and forested areas. Look, and listen, for hoary marmots and pikas along the trail. Gray Jays and Clark’s Nutcrackers are common (and tame) below timberline, and you might see White-tailed Ptarmigans in the higher reaches.

The Skyline Trail is a very popular hike for many reasons, and you will have plenty of company on it. But the views are incredible, the mountain is utterly massive, and wildlife and wildflowers are abundant, all of which make putting up with the crowds well worth it.

Getting there:

From Portland, take Interstate-5 north to US Hwy 12 (Exit 68). Follow US12 east to Morton, then Washington Hwy 7 north to Elbe. Turn east on Hwy 706 and proceed to the Longmire Entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. In the park, follow the signs to Paradise.

From Seattle, take I-5 south through Tacoma to Exit 127 (Hwy 512). Go east on Hwy 512 to Hwy 7, then south to Elbe. From Elbe, proceed as described above.

The park entrance fee is $30 if you don’t have one of the various national park passes and is good for seven days. The park no longer accepts cash payments.

Best Times to Go:

The hiking season is limited in the Paradise area and even more so for the upper part of the Skyline Loop. Paradise is also the most visited part of the park and is always crowded on summer weekends, so your best bet is to come on a weekday morning, or anytime after Labor Day. Even then, you may have trouble finding a parking spot. There are plenty of other worthwhile hikes in the Longmire and Paradise areas, so come prepared with a Plan B hike just in case.

Another option, if you can afford it, is to book a room at Paradise Inn, which allows you to park in the inn’s parking lot. But even that doesn’t guarantee you a parking spot, as we found out one afternoon after returning from a day hike lower on the mountain. The inn’s lot was full, as was the visitor center lot. We had to park in the lower lot and walk to the inn. The National Park Inn in Longmire is another lodging option to consider.

Trailheads:

The trail begins and ends near the Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center. Restrooms and drinking water are available in the visitor center. You can also start the hike from Paradise Inn, just uphill from the visitor center. Parking at the visitor center is limited and fills up early in the day. Parking at Paradise Inn is restricted to visitors staying at the inn. An alternative trailhead starts at the lower parking lot. (There is a trail to the visitor center, or you can take the Deadhorse Creek Trail up the mountain and join the Skyline Trail just below Glacier Vista. Starting at the lower trailhead adds only about two tenths of a mile to the hike.)

The hike:

From the trailhead at the visitor center, the trail heads straight up the mountain on a moderately steep grade. There are a myriad of trails crisscrossing the Paradise area above the visitor center, but most of the trail intersections are well signed. If in doubt, just head uphill. But bring a trail map, just in case.

At the 0.2-mile mark, you’ll come to a junction with the Alta Vista Trail, a side trail that takes you to a good viewpoint before rejoining the Skyline Trail. The Alta Vista Trail adds a little to the elevation gain of this hike, but doesn’t add any distance.

Stay on the main trail at the junction with the Deadhorse Creek Trail. The next trail junction, at the one-mile mark, is with the Glacier View Trail. Like the Alta Vista Trail, the Glacier View Trail parallels the Skyline Trail and doesn’t add any distance to the hike, but does provide a good view of the massive Nisqually Glacier.

Above Glacier View, the Skyline Trail switchbacks up a steeper section of the mountain above timberline. At the 1.6-mile mark you come to the junction with the Upper Skyline Trail (which may be signed as the Pebble Creek Trail). Staying on the main trail will take you to the well-named and very popular Panorama Point, with sweeping views down to Paradise Inn and the visitor center, across to the Tatoosh Range, and beyond to Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams. The Upper Skyline Trail is a three tenths of a mile shortcut and bypasses the often crowded Panorama Point. If you take the shortcut, stay right at the next junction to rejoin the main trail above Panorama Point.

Just above Panorama Point is a restroom open during the summer (it may be closed after Labor Day). Follow the trail going straight up the mountain where you will come to the eastern junction with the Upper Skyline Trail. Older maps show the Skyline Trail descending from Panorama Point across a snow field to the east and rejoining the Upper Skyline Trail on the ridge beyond. That is no longer the official route and is not maintained, although I saw a group of people taking it the last time I was there. Google Maps also still shows that trail.

Just past the junction with the Upper Skyline Trail, you’ll reach the high point of the hike at 7040 feet. From there, the trail traverses the rocky southeastern slopes of the mountain, then descends to the junction with the Golden Gate Trail at the 3.3-mile mark of the hike. Taking the Golden Gate Trail, which switchbacks down a steep slope before rejoining the Skyline Trail, cuts about a mile off the total distance of the hike.

Past the Golden Gate Trail junction, the Skyline Trail follows the crest of a ridge, then descends to a beautiful alpine meadow near the headwaters of the Paradise River. After crossing the river, which is still a small creek at that point, you will come to the junction with the Paradise Glacier Trail at the 3.9-mile mark of the hike, which once led to the famous Paradise Ice Caves. The caves no longer exist, however. Beyond the junction, look for the Stevens-Van Trump Historical Marker, commemorating the first ascent of the mountain in 1870.

Beyond the monument, the trail parallels the edge of a 1000-foot drop off to Stevens Creek to the east before turning west. Stay right at the junction with the Lakes Trail and follow the Skyline Trail as it switchbacks down to meet the Paradise River again. Stay right again at the 4th Crossing Trail junction. The trail then traverses the slope above the river and crosses over a ridge. Just past the lower junction with the Golden Gate Trail, you come to Myrtle Falls at the 5.2-mile mark. Myrtle Falls is one of the most photographed spots in the park, and one of the most crowded. Welcome back to civilization. From Myrtle Falls it’s a short half-mile jaunt back to the trailhead.

Other area attractions and activities:

Mount Rainier National Park offers innumerable attractions other than this hike. The Longmire area has an interesting history and a number of interesting hikes. Between Longmire and Paradise there are several waterfall hikes. The Reflection Lakes area below Paradise has several other nice hikes, as do the Stevens Canyon and Ohanapecosh areas. And the Sunrise area on the east side of the mountain has spectacular views of the mountain and many trails. And, as its name suggests, it offers especially gorgeous views of the mountain at sunrise.

Conclusion:

The Skyline Trail, even if you hike only a portion of the loop, should be on every hikers bucket list of destinations. There simply is no other high altitude trail that is as accessible and as scenic in the Pacific Northwest.

Posted September 8, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos ©Alan K. Lee

Smith Rock State Park

By Alan K. Lee

Smith Rock State Park in Central Oregon is a mecca for rock climbers, but it’s more than that. Its natural beauty also attracts hikers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, birders and wildlife lovers, fishermen, photographers, and countless others.

Several thousand climbing routes exist within the park, including more than a thousand bolted routes. Climbers literally come from all over the globe to climb here. And an extensive trail system within the park offers hikers a variety of routes of varying lengths and difficulty. Many of the trails are multi-use trails, open also to mountain bikers and horseback riders. Click here to view a map of the park trail system.

Thirty million years ago the area that is now Smith Rock was on the western rim of the Crooked River Caldera. Over time, nearby volcanic eruptions filled the caldera with ash that compacted into volcanic tuff. The tuff was later overtopped with basalt lava flows from vents about fifty miles away. The Crooked River then eroded much of that, leaving the formations we see today.

I’m not a rock climber, but I’ve been coming to Smith Rock on a fairly regular basis for more than half a century. Growing up, my family would often come to Central Oregon to camp and fish, and many times we would make the short detour to Smith Rock on our way home. I’ve been there when the park was almost deserted, something I will probably never see again. Park usage has grown exponentially in recent years, more than doubling in the five years between 2014 and 2019.

On summer weekends you need to come early to have a chance of finding a place to park. The parking areas fill up quickly, and it’s not unusual to see cars parked along both sides of the road leading to the park and people walking in the road. There has been a shuttle system proposed that would allow visitors to park in the nearby town of Terrebonne and bus into the park, but that (to the best of my knowledge) has yet to be implemented. Even during the week, and on spring and fall weekends, parking can be a problem.

The park’s popularity is understandable, but with that has come problems of overcrowding, illegal parking and camping, pedestrian safety, conflicts with local residents and adjacent land owners, degradation of the park’s natural areas, and other problems. Oregon State Parks has recently finalized an updated park master plan that will address those issues. Changes could include creation of a new park entrance, additional parking areas, installation of “smart gates” and elimination of roadside parking, relocation and expansion of the walk-in bivouac camping area, relocation and expansion of the visitor center, a new day-use area, new trailheads, additional bridges across the Crooked River, a new trail to Terrebonne, and new composting toilets in the climbing areas.

October 2023 update:

The trail bridge across the Crooked River that had been closed for reconstruction is now open. Construction of the the new, wider bridge (pictured above) was completed in early October.

Despite the crowds and other problems, Smith Rock is a Pacific Northwest bucket list destination, not to be missed. It’s a spectacularly beautiful place. But if you’re looking for a wilderness experience, you won’t find it at Smith Rock (except maybe in the middle of winter). If you don’t mind sharing the place with others, though, the park is large enough that visitors tend to spread out, and even at full capacity the park doesn’t feel overly crowded if you get a little ways away from the parking areas. (A recent visitor survey found that 69% of the respondents felt the park to be somewhat to very crowded, however.)

You can avoid the worst of the crowds and the hassles that the limited parking creates by visiting in the spring or fall during the week. Visiting in winter might even offer a bit of solitude, and the clear and cold days that are often found then can be one of the best times to photograph the magnificent rock formations. And they are truly magnificent.

The park is located just east of the town of Terrebonne, which is about 25 miles north of Bend, Oregon, and about 140 miles southeast of Portland. For more information, go to the Smith Rock State Park website, or the independent SmithRock.com site.

Originally posted on March 11, 2019. Updated most recently on October 11, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted.

Fort Stevens State Park, Oregon Coast

Introduction

Fort Stevens State Park is one of the most popular and most visited parks in Oregon, and for good reason. It includes a nice beach with good clamming at low tides, a freshwater lake with two picnic grounds, hiking trails, abundant wildlife habitat (including that of a resident herd of Roosevelt elk), a shipwreck, a large campground, and more. And it has an interesting history.

History

From 1864 to 1947, Fort Stevens was an active military base, one of three forts at the mouth of the Columbia River built to protect the entrance to the river. After decommissioning, the fort became the property of the Army Corp of Engineers. In 1975 ownership was transferred to the State of Oregon and became part of Fort Stevens State Park. Many of the concrete gun batteries are still present and open to the public. The park also includes a military history museum, and tours of an underground WWII-era portion of the fort are available.

Fort Stevens State Park was created in 1955 after Clatsop County gifted a parcel of land south of the old military base to the State of Oregon. The state expanded the park several times between 1955 and 1975. The addition of the grounds of the historic Fort Stevens brought the park area to its present size of 4300 acres.

In addition to its military history, Fort Stevens State Park is also part of Lewis and Clark National Historic Park.

The Park

Today, Fort Stevens State Park includes a campground with almost 500 campsites (174 with full hookups and 302 with water and electricity). There are also 15 yurts, 11 cabins, and a hiker-biker camp. The campground has bathrooms with flush toilets and hot showers.

There are two large picnic areas on the shores of Coffenbury Lake, a 50-acre freshwater lake that is sheltered from the strong winds that can make the beach a less than pleasant experience at times. The lake has a boat ramp (non-motorized craft or boats with electric motors only), and the lake is stocked with rainbow trout. It also has a variety of warm water fish, including largemouth bass, and is occasionally stocked with steelhead.

The park includes a nine-mile-long bike path, six miles of hiking trails, four miles of ocean beach (part of 15 miles of uninterrupted beach stretching from the south jetty of the Columbia River to the town of Gearhart), two miles of Columbia riverfront beach, and four miles of marshland along the Columbia River Estuary.

Wreck of the Peter Iredale, October 25, 1906. Sourced from Wikimedia Commons.

The Shipwreck

One of the unique features of the park is the shipwreck still visible on the beach after more than a century.

On a foggy night in October 1906, the Peter Iredale, a four masted, steel hulled sailing ship, was blown ashore four miles south of the entrance to the Columbia River by a strong west wind. All 27 crew members were rescued unharmed, but the ship could not be salvaged and has remained on the beach ever since.

The wreck has deteriorated over the past century, but a surprisingly large amount of the hull remains intact. I visited the wreck at low tide in August (2023) and took the photos shown here. (My family camped at Fort Stevens a number of times when I was growing up, but in those days the wreck was buried in the sand, and I don’t remember it being visible on any of our trips there. It wasn’t until fairly recently that I first saw the remains of the ship).

Getting There

Fort Stevens State Park is located near Astoria, Oregon. From Astoria, take US Hwy 101 south across the New Youngs Bay Bridge. Just south of the bridge turn right onto Ore Hwy 104 (E. Harbor Drive). Follow Hwy 104 through downtown Warrenton and follow signs to the park. From the south, take Hwy 101 north, turn left onto Ore Hwy 104 just south of Warrenton, and follow signs to the park.

Nearby Attractions

The area around the mouth of the Columbia River has many interesting places to explore in addition to Fort Stevens. The Lewis and Clark Expedition, the first Americans to explore the area west of the continental divide, reached the mouth of the Columbia in 1806. Members of the expedition built Fort Clatsop, where they spent the winter of 1806-07. The exact location of the fort is unknown, but a replica of the fort, part of Lewis and Clark National Historic Park, is located a few miles east of Fort Stevens where historians believe the fort was located. For hikers, the park features a 6.5-mile trail from Fort Clatsop to the Pacific Ocean at Sunset Beach.

In 1811, John Jacob Astor’s Northwest Company established Fort Astoria at the site of the present-day town of Astoria, the oldest American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. Astoria is an interesting as well as historic town well worth visiting on its own.

North Head Lighthouse, Cape Disappointment State Park

Besides Fort Stevens, there are several other parks in the area. Cape Disappointment State Park is located on the Washington side of the Columbia River. It’s the site of Fort Canby, another of the forts that guarded the mouth of the river. Fort Columbia Historical State Park, a few miles inland on the shore of the Washington side of the river, is the site of the third of the three forts.

Ocean fishing trips can be booked on charter boats at the port town of Ilwaco, on the Washington side of the river across the four-mile-long Astoria-Megler Bridge from the town of Astoria.

Conclusion

Whether you’re a camper, beachcomber, history buff, fisherman, hiker, wildlife enthusiast, photographer, or sightseer, Fort Stevens State Park and the immediate area has something for everyone. And the Long Beach, Washington area north of the Columbia, and the towns, parks, and beaches of the northern Oregon coast also have a lot to offer the traveler. It is no wonder that the area is one of the top tourist destinations in the Pacific Northwest.

Posted August 13, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos by and property of the author, except as noted

A New Trail at Silver Falls

There is a new trail at Silver Falls and a new hike:

The North Canyon Loop

Where: Silver Falls State Park

Distance: 2.4 miles

Elevation gain: 300 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

Oregon State Parks map and brochure.

Overview:

Silver Falls State Park opened a new day use area, called North Canyon, in July 2023, the first phase of a North Gateway complex that will also feature a visitor center and a new 50-unit campground (scheduled to open in 2025). North Canyon features a new picnic area, ADA accessible restrooms, and a 59-space parking lot, which more than doubles the available parking in the north end of the park.

North Canyon also features a new trail, the North Rim Trail, that runs along the canyon rim between the new day use area and the existing North Falls parking lot and North Falls trailhead. The new trail is ADA accessible to a viewpoint of North Falls. This new trail at Silver Falls makes possible a new 2.4-mile loop hike that is this week’s hike of the week.

Getting there:

Silver Falls State Park is located about fifteen miles east of Salem, Oregon. Coming from Salem or south, take Ore Hwy 22 east and look for signs to Silver Falls. The turn off onto Ore Hwy 214 is about five miles east of Interstate-5. The South Falls day use area is about 15 miles from Hwy 22. The North Falls parking area is about 2.2 miles farther, and the new North Canyon day use area is just beyond that (look for a sign for the group camp area).

Coming from the north, take exit 271 off I-5 at Woodburn. Proceed through Woodburn on Ore Hwy 214 and follow 214 through the towns of Mount Angel and Silverton. The park is about 12 miles from Silverton. The North Canyon turnoff (old group camp area) is the first right after entering the park. The North Falls parking area is a short distance beyond the North Canyon turnoff.

Trailheads:

You can start and end the North Canyon Loop hike from either the North Falls or the new North Canyon trailheads. Both have restrooms and water is available at both. Day use parking permits cost five dollars and can be purchased at either parking area. Twelve month and twenty-four month Oregon State Park passes are available for $30 and $50 respectively from the Reserve America website.

The hike:

This hike can be done in either clockwise or counterclockwise directions. Going counterclockwise avoids the steep climb out of the canyon from Twin Falls to the North Canyon trailhead. I went the other way, though.

I started at the new North Canyon trailhead. The North Rim Trail is a wide gravel path with a gradual (less than 5%) grade that is ADA accessible from the trailhead to the North Falls Viewpoint. Beyond that, the trail is narrower and not ADA compliant.

Just beyond the trailhead you’ll come to the junction with the Twin Falls Trail, an older trail that takes you down a steep descent into the canyon. Turn right at the junction to do the loop in the counterclockwise direction.

Beyond the Twin Falls Trail junction, the North Rim Trail meanders through the forest, passing a children’s play area and a small two-table picnic area.

There are two bridges on the new trail built to meet ADA requirements.

North Falls from North Rim Trail viewpoint

In about six tenths of a mile, the ADA accessible portion of the trail ends at a spectacular viewpoint looking up the canyon to North Falls. This is a good spot to stop and linger for a while.

North Rim Trail beyond the North Falls viewpoint

Beyond the viewpoint, the trail is a narrower non-ADA accessible dirt path that continues for another two tenths of a mile to the North Falls parking area. The North Falls and Upper North Falls trailheads are on the opposite side of the parking lot. The 0.6-mile out and back hike to Upper North Falls is a very worthwhile addition to this loop, making for a slightly longer 3.0-mile hike.

From the North Falls trailhead, take the Canyon Trail, which descends a set of steps and then loops back behind North Falls, one of the four falls in the park that you can walk behind. You’ll probably want to linger here, too, for a while. It’s a pretty unique and pretty special spot, in my opinion.

Continue on the Canyon Trail, passing almost directly below the viewpoint on the North Rim Trail, for about a mile to the lower junction of the Twin Falls Trail. Stay on the Canyon Trail for now. The best view of Twin Falls is a few hundred yards beyond the junction. Then retrace your steps and take the Twin Falls Trail, which switchbacks steeply up the side of the canyon. You’ll gain about 250 feet in the first three tenths of a mile. The last two tenths of a mile back to the North Canyon trailhead is still uphill, but not nearly as steep.

Despite the steep climb out of the canyon, this new loop is a relatively easy hike, and a nice addition to the many other possible loops the park offers. As a life-long hiker, I can tell you that Silver Falls is about as close to paradise as it gets, and you could make a good argument for the Trail of Ten Falls being the best hiking trail in the Northwest. Silver Falls State Park has a lot more to offer than just hiking opportunities, too. For an overview of the park as a whole, click here.

Other area attractions and activities:

The nearby town of Silverton has a variety of dining and lodging options. Stop in at the Silver Falls Brewery and Alehouse after your hike for a bite to eat and a pint of craft brewed beer. Or try the Benedictine Brewery near Mount Angel that is operated by monks from the Mount Angel Abbey. Silverton is also home to the Oregon Garden, one of the state’s leading botanical gardens. Next door to the Oregon Garden is the Gordon House, the only surviving Frank Lloyd Wright designed house in Oregon.

Conclusion:

A new trail at Silver Falls is a rare occurrence – I can’t remember an entirely new trail opening at the park in my lifetime – and certainly a welcome one. The North Canyon Loop isn’t the most spectacular hike in the park, but it is a nice addition to the park’s already extensive list of outstanding hiking options.

Posted August 8, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos ©Alan K. Lee

Isle of Skye, Scotland

The Isle of Skye is often described as magical or mystical, and having been there I understand why. It’s beautiful, wild, and unforgettable.

The Isle of Skye was one of the highlights of the trip my wife and I took to Scotland back in 2006, and even though it has been more than fifteen years since our visit, the memory of our visit hasn’t faded. (One of the other highlights of that trip was our visit to Edinburgh.)

The Isle of Skye is both remote and at the same time the most accessible of the Hebrides Islands thanks to the Skye Bridge connecting the island to mainland Scotland. Getting to and getting around the Isle of Skye is relatively easy even if you don’t rent a car. There’s no rail service to the island, but buses run daily from both Glasgow and Inverness, and there is a local bus serving the island villages.

The local bus won’t get you to the more remote parts of the island, but if you want to explore the island’s outer reaches, there are bus tours available from a variety of operators. And there are many boat trips that will give you a different perspective on the island, take you to other nearby islands, and possibly give you an up close look at some of the marine mammals and birds that inhabit the islands.

Dunvegan Castle (sourced from Wikimedia Commons and credited to bea y frida)

We had a rental car, and driving on Skye’s many one lane (single track) roads was something of an adventure at times, but we had no misadventures. We spent most of our time on the island exploring the north and west coasts. Highlights of our tour include Kilt Rock, Neist Point, and Dunvegan Castle , the oldest continuously occupied castle in Scotland and the ancestral home of Clan MacLeod.

Another highlight for me was the many sweeping vistas of the open fields and farmhouses, and the rocky shores of the island. I tried to capture some of the magnificence of those views, but no photo can do justice to the breadth and scope of the scenery to be had there. It has to be experienced in person.

While on the island, we stayed at the White Heather Hotel on the harbor in the town of Kyleakin, just across the Skye Bridge from the mainland. The hotel markets itself as a small hotel with the hominess and personal service of a bed and breakfast. We found the staff to be friendly and helpful, and our room was clean, nicely furnished, and more than adequate for our needs

Ruins of Castle Maol silhouetted against the setting sun

We found the White Heather to be a great base for our exploration of the island, but there are many other hotels and guest houses on the island. Check the Isle of Skye Visitor Guide for a full listing of available accommodations.

Portree, on the east coast of the island, would also make a good base your explorations. It is the island’s largest village (population 2500) and there are numerous hotels and other accommodations to choose from. It’s also more centrally located than Kyleakin. The town of Dunvegan, in the northwest part of the island, is another popular base of operations.

I have no hesitation in recommending the Isle of Skye as a destination that should be on your bucket list. It’s a wonderful place and Scotland as a whole was a great place to start our explorations in Europe. Scotland is both different enough from the U.S. to be interesting and a bit exotic and alike enough to be comfortable and inviting.

We didn’t get to see all Skye has to offer in our short stay, and I would love to go back and explore the island further. But a big part of the allure of travel, for us at least, is exploring new places and new cultures, and there are so many other places that we have not yet visited that we may never make it back to Skye. But I will always treasure our visit and will never forget either the island or its people.

Originally posted by Alan K. Lee, October 3, 2020. Updated and re-posted August 1, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park

Chehalem Ridge Hike

Where: Chehalem Ridge Nature Park, Washington County, Oregon

Distance: 3.6 to 4.2 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: 400 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

For a map of the entire park, click here.

Overview:

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is owned and operated by Metro, the tri-county regional government agency of the Oregon portion of the Portland metropolitan area. It is Metro’s newest park, opened in 2021. The park has about ten miles of trails. All are open to hikers, most to mountain bikers, and many to horseback riders. Much of the park’s 1250 acres were once a tree farm, and this hike passes through several of those areas, but also traverses several areas of older, more mature and more natural forest. Under protection from Metro, the tree farm areas will eventually transition back into a more natural, wildlife friendly habitat through forest thinning, removal of non-native vegetation and planting of native trees and shrubs.

Getting there:

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is located south of Forest Grove and west of Beaverton. There are a variety of ways to get there depending on your starting point. Enter the address of the park, 38263 SW Dixon Mill Rd, Gaston, OR 97119, into your navigation system or Google Maps to get the best route from your location. There is no public transportation to the park.

Trailhead:

The trailhead for this hike, and other hikes in the park, is located at the park entrance off Dixon Mill Road. There are restrooms and water available at the trailhead. This hike begins just behind the west picnic shelter.

The hike:

Start the hike by taking the Woodland Trail, which meanders through an old tree farm. The trees here are all the same size and age, with little understory growth. The trail ascends gradually to a high point, then descends to its end at Timber Road, 1.4 miles from the trailhead.

Turn left on Timber Road, which crosses Christensen Creek (the low point of this hike) and follow it up the hill. In about three tenths of a mile, you’ll come to the start of the Chehalem Ridge Trail on your right. This is the high point of the hike. Hike up the Chehalem Ridge Trail for about a tenth of a mile, then turn right onto the Witches Butter Trail. This part of the hike passes through another area that was part of a tree farm until recently. There is an overlook on the Witches Butter Trail that gives a nice view east and north across the Tualatin Valley. On a clear day, Mount St. Helens and Mount Hood are visible from there.

In another half mile, turn left onto the Ayeekwa Trail, which runs through an older, more natural forest with a more diverse flora and an understory more typical of the temperate rain forest environment common to the area before European colonization. In about seven tenths of a mile, the Ayeekwa Trail returns to Timber Road at Christensen Creek.

Turn left on Timber Road and re-cross Christensen Creek. Here you have the option of retracing your steps on the Woodland Trail back to the trailhead or following Timber Road up the hill. The Woodland Trail is more scenic, but longer (making for a 4.2 mile hike). If you elect to take Timber Road, look for the Ammefu Trail on your left about a quarter mile from Christensen Creek. This is a short detour through an older forest. There is a bench with a nice view where you can rest. One of the “Three Elders” sculptures done by Adam McIsaac, Bobby Mercier, and Nakoa Mercier is located near the bench.

Where the Ammefu Trail rejoins Timber Road, you can either follow the road back to the trailhead (where you’ll find another of the “Three Elders” sculptures) or cross the road and rejoin the Woodland Trail and take it back to the trailhead.

Timber Road is a shared use trail open to hikers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders (but not motor vehicles), as is Chehalem Ridge Trail. The Woodland Trail and Witches Butter Trail are open to hikers and mountain bikers, but not horseback riders. The Ayeekwa and Ammefu Trails are hiker only.

Other area attractions and activities:

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is in a rural area with no other close by hiking or biking opportunities, but the west metro area, not far from Chehalem Ridge, has an abundance. Some of my favorite hikes in the area include Tualatin Hills Nature Park, Cooper Mountain Nature Park, and, closer to downtown Portland, Hoyt Arboretum in Washington Park. And, if you’re like me, you might want to quench your thirst with a cold beer after your hike. There are many pubs in the west metro area to do just that. Two of the closest are McMenamin’s Grand Lodge in Forest Grove and Mazama Brewing in Hillsboro.

Conclusion:

While Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is not pristine wilderness, it is a worthwhile outing for hikers looking for a new and uncrowded destination in the Portland metropolitan area. It’s also large enough to offer multiple potential hikes, from short loops near the park entrance to out and back hikes exceeding ten miles in length.

Posted July 27, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Hug Point State Park, Oregon Coast

Hug Point State Park

Located near the coastal town of Cannon Beach, Oregon, Hug Point’s unique blend of beaches, tide pools, interesting and unusual rock formations, caves, and waterfall make it one my favorite spots on the coast. The headland also blocks the prevailing northwest wind in the summer, so it’s often quite pleasant there when more exposed beaches are uncomfortably cold.

Besides being one of the nicer and more interesting beaches on the Oregon coast, Hug Point also played an interesting role in securing Oregon’s beaches as public property more than a century ago. Before the coast highway (US 101) was built, the beaches were important transportation routes. In the case of the small community of Arch Cape, located about five miles south of Cannon Beach, the beach was the only route in or out of the town. And travelers had to get around Hug Point, which was difficult for horse drawn carriages and wagons. They had to “hug the point” in rounding it to keep from getting into water too deep to negotiate, even at low tide.

Early motor cars had even more of a problem getting around Hug Point than carriages and wagons. To make the traverse easier and safer, someone blasted a primitive roadway into the face of the headland. Legend has it that it was done by a man after he had lost his new car to the rising tide while trying to navigate around the point. But who actually built it, and when, remains unknown. There are photos of the finished roadway dating to 1915, but there are no surviving records of the roadway’s construction.

In 1911 Oswald West was elected Governor of Oregon, partly on the basis of his campaign promise to protect Oregon’s beaches from private development. The Oregon State Land Board had begun selling tidelands to private investors as early as 1874, but there was widespread opposition to that practice among the populace in the early years of the 20th century. West made the case that the beaches needed to be kept in public ownership to preserve access to coastal communities such as Arch Cape. In 1913 the state legislature agreed, passing a law making the entire coast from California to the Columbia River a state highway. To learn a little more about this often forgotten bit of Oregon history, and Hug Point’s role in it, click here.

The Oregon Beach Bill , promoted heavily by then-Governor Tom McCall, further cemented public ownership of Oregon’s beaches. Passed by the state legislature in 1967, the bill made all coastal lands up to sixteen vertical feet above the low tide line property of the state, and preserved public beach access up to the vegetation line.

I love the eroded sandstone rock formations found at Hug Point. The layered sandstone of the point has been warped and folded by tectonic processes and eroded by wind and water into fantastic formations. The tidewater rocks are covered in green algae and seaweed, barnacles, and mussels. The rocks, sand, colorful vegetation, waves, and ever changing light make for great photo opportunities.

Hug Point State Park is located about five miles south of Cannon Beach. The point can also be reached from Arcadia Beach State Park, about a mile to the north. It’s an easy day trip from the Portland area, but there many other attractions in the area, so many visitors spend a weekend or longer in the area.

The nearby towns of Cannon Beach, Seaside, and Manzanita all have numerous motels, BNBs, and other accommodations, as well as many restaurants and cafes serving fresh seafood and other locally sourced foods. Astoria, located at the mouth of the Columbia River, is both the oldest European settlement and one of the most interesting towns in the Pacific Northwest.

The nearest campgrounds are at Nehalem Bay State Park, about ten miles south of Hug Point, and Fort Stevens State Park, about 25 miles to the north. There are also numerous RV parks all up and down the northern Oregon coast.

Hug Point is one of the nicest beaches on the northern Oregon coast, especially for families, and because of that it can be quite crowded in the summer, even during the week. But if you’re looking for a quiet beach where you can find some solitude, you can sometimes find Hug Point nearly deserted on week days after Labor Day. And Fall offers some of the best weather on the coast. Winter days are frequently wet and windy, but those days have an appeal of their own, and some of my best memories of the coast are from stormy winter days where I had the beach entirely to myself.

One note of caution, though. If you go, pay attention to the tides. The waterfall and caves that draw most of the visitors to Hug Point State Park are nestled between Adair Point, immediately north of the beach access, and Hug Point itself. At high tide it can be difficult or impossible to get around these two points, so it is possible to get trapped between them.

Originally posted January 8, 2019 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted May 10, 2021, and July 20, 2023

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Harry’s Ridge Hike

Where: Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Distance: 7.8 miles

Type: Out and back

Elevation gain: 1500 feet

Difficulty: Moderate (for length)

Overview:

The trail to Harry’s Ridge is one of my favorite hikes on Mount St. Helens. My wife and I spent a long weekend exploring Mount St. Helens a few years ago, and I was eager to see what changes had taken place since my last visit. My wife had been up to the mountain only a couple of weeks before, kayaking Coldwater Lake with a friend of hers, but it had been many years since I had been there.

Mount St. Helens, May 18, 1980. Photo credited to U.S. Geological Survey. Sourced from Wikimedia Commons.

Everyone knows about the eruption of Mount St. Helens, so I won’t go into any detail here. Check out my Mount St. Helens post for more information on the eruption and see more photos of the mountain and the blast zone, if you’re interested.

Harry R. Truman. US Forest Service photo, sourced from Wikimedia Commons

Harry’s Ridge is named for Harry R. Truman, the 83-year-old curmudgeon and owner of Spirit Lake Lodge who refused to evacuate and died in the May 18, 1980 eruption. The hike begins at the Johnston Ridge Observatory, named for volcanologist David A. Johnston, who was camping near where the observatory is now located and was also killed in the eruption).

The observatory provides a panoramic view into the crater of the mountain and down to the valley below that was filled by the eruption landslide, pyroclastic flows, and lahars. It’s an otherworldly vista that you will not find anywhere else in the country.

Getting there:

The observatory is located at the end of the Spirit Lake Highway (WA 504). To get there from the Seattle area, travel south on I-5 and take WA 505 (Exit 63) through the town of Toledo to the junction with WA 504. From Portland, take Exit 49 off I-5 at Castle Rock. Johnston Ridge is approximately 50 miles east of I-5.

2023 update: As of July 6, the Johnston Ridge Observatory is inaccessible due to a landslide near the Coldwater Visitor Center on Hwy 504. Check the Observatory website linked above for more information.

Trailhead:

Park in the Johnston Ridge Observatory parking lot. There is an $8.00 per person per day charge payable in the Observatory. National Park Senior Passes and America the Beautiful Passes allow the holder entry without charge. A Northwest Forest Pass will allow one person entry without charge. But you need to check in at the Observatory before heading out on the trail, even if you have a pass. Trail maps, restrooms and drinking water are available in the Observatory.

The hike:

From the Observatory, follow the paved trail to an overlook on Johnston Ridge near the Observatory. There are good views here into the crater of the mountain and the blast zone. At the junction just beyond the overlook, turn right onto the Boundary Trail.

There are great views all along the trail. Wildflowers were still abundant when my wife and I did this hike in late August. On the north side of the ridge, you will see a new forest beginning to grow. The trail descends gradually for about a mile and a half through mostly open terrain to a trail junction. Stay left here on a new portion of the trail to avoid a traverse of a steep slope on the old trail. At the 1.8-mile mark you will come to another trail junction. Stay left on the Boundary Trail. The trail to the right takes you to the Devil’s Point viewpoint.

At about the two-mile point in the hike the trail descends the south side of the ridge to a junction with the Truman Trail at the 2.2-mile mark. At the junction, continue straight on the Boundary Trail. This section of trail has some shaded spots with small trees and shrubs. The trail then climbs steadily for about another mile and a half to the junction with the Harry’s Ridge Trail.

There are good views of Spirit Lake on the Boundary Trail just beyond the junction. Huckleberry bushes, lupine, and Indian paintbrush are abundant here. Back at the junction, take the Harry’s Ridge Trail up to the summit of the ridge. Along the trail to the summit there are more views of Spirit Lake, Windy Ridge to the east of the lake, and Mt. Adams in the distance.

At the summit of Harry’s Ridge there is a closer view into the crater than can be had from the Observatory, and the blast zone extends around you in all directions. You’ll want to linger here and take in the view. It’s a good spot for lunch, too, and a good turnaround point. The trail continues down the ridge to another lower viewpoint, if you want an even closer view into the crater. When you’re ready to leave, return to the Observatory the way you came.

Other area attractions and activities:

There are other worthwhile hikes that start at Johnston Ridge, as well. The Truman Trail, for example, will take you into the blast zone directly below the crater. Check at the Observatory or the Observatory website for more information. There is also a nice trail around Coldwater Lake, and the lake is a good place to canoe or kayak. And the day after we hiked to Harry’s Ridge my wife and I hiked Lava Canyon, on the southeast side of Mount St. Helens, another hike that is very much worth doing.

Originally posted September 25, 2018 by Alan K. Lee. Most recently updated July 6, 2023.

All photos ©Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Clear Lake Loop Trail

Clear lake Loop Trail

Where: Upper McKenzie River Valley, Willamette National Forest, Oregon

Distance: 5.0 miles

Elevation gain: Minimal

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (for rough sections of the trail through the lava flows)

Overview:

Clear Lake is one of the clearest (as the name would suggest), cleanest, coldest, and most beautiful lakes in the Cascade Range. It’s also the headwaters of the spectacularly beautiful McKenzie River. This hike takes you through the forest and lava fields around the lake, with great views of the lake from all sides.

Note that the trail along the west side of the lake may be closed periodically to protect bald eagle nesting sites. Call the McKenzie River Ranger Station at 541-822-7254 for more information. (The Ranger District’s website wasn’t much help, and the link to their email didn’t work).

Map: Oregon Hikers

Getting there:

Clear Lake is located along Oregon Hwy 126 about 65 miles east of Eugene. From the Portland area, take I-5 south to exit 253, then travel east on Ore Hwy 22 for 79 miles to the junction with US Hwy 20, go west for three miles, then turn south on Ore Hwy 126. The lake is about three miles south of the junction. From the Bend area, take US Hwy 20 west over Santiam Pass to the junction with Ore Hwy 126, then south to the lake.

Trailheads:

You can start this hike from either the day use area at Clear Lake Resort on the northwest side of the lake or Coldwater Cove Campground on the southeast side. The resort has a small cafe (open limited hours) and restrooms, and drinking water is available. There is no charge to park and a Northwest Forest Pass is not required. The Coldwater Cove trailhead is at the end of Forest Road 770, about one mile east of Hwy 126 just south of the lake. There are vault toilets at the campground and drinking water is available. Parking requires a Northwest Forest Pass. The trail description below starts and ends at the resort.

The hike:

If you’re starting the hike at the resort, park in the day use area at the resort (unless you are renting one of the cabins or the yurt) and walk north through the resort along the shore of the lake. In a few hundred yards you’ll see the trailhead on your right.

The first part of the trail takes you through the forest with filtered views of the lake. Several side trails lead down to the lake for better views.

The new and much improved Fish Lake Creek bridge, 2024

The trail continues north away from the lake, then crosses Ikenick Creek and doubles back to the lake before turning north again for about a half mile to a junction with the McKenzie River National Scenic Trail. Here the trail crosses Fish Lake Creek. (The Forest Service was in the process of replacing the old single log bridge when I was there in 2022 and the bridge was closed, but the creek was dry and you could scramble down the slope and climb back up the other side. The new bridge was in place when I did this hike again in the summer of 2024.

After crossing Fish Lake Creek, the trail turns south and runs along the eastern shore of the lake to the Great Spring. This was the source of the McKenzie River before Clear Lake was formed about 3000 years ago when a lava flow damned the river.

From the Great Spring the trail follows the east shore through the lava fields and forest. Parts of the trail are pretty rough. Good quality hiking boots are advised, although I did this hike in sneakers on my latest visit. But open toed sandals or flip flops are definitely not acceptable footwear on this section of the trail.

Clear Lake Lodge from the opposite shore

The section of trail immediately north of Coldwater Cove Campground is paved. South of the campground, the trail runs through the forest to the south end of the lake where you’ll come to a trail junction. Turn right to return to the resort.

Clear Lake outlet and the beginning of the McKenzie River

The trail crosses the lake’s outfall on a bridge that provides good views south to the beginning of the McKenzie River and north across the lake. Across the bridge, the trail turns north through the forest along the west shore of the lake. There is one good side trail that will take you to the lakeshore, but the main trail gives only limited views of the lake before you return to the resort where you started.

Other area attractions and activities:

There are too many other hikes in the area to list all of them, but two of the best are the four mile out and back hike to the Blue Pool on the McKenzie River, and the 2.6-mile McKenzie Waterfalls Loop that takes you past both Sahalie and Koosah Falls on the McKenzie. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses Santiam Pass northeast of Clear Lake giving hikers access to trails in both the Mount Jefferson Wilderness to the north and the Mount Washington Wilderness to the south.

Fish Lake, a few miles north of Clear Lake, is definitely worth a visit. The lake dries up completely in the summer and becomes a lush, green meadow, even in late summer when the surrounding forest is bone dry. The 19th century Santiam Wagon Road crossed the Cascades here, and there was a Forest Service guard station here in the first half of the 20th century. Several of the Forest Service buildings and historic homesteads have been preserved and the area is now a National Historic Site.

Thermal pool at Belknap Hot Springs. Photo from Tripadvisor website.

One of the many hot springs in the Cascade Range is Belknap Hot Springs, located about 15 miles south of Clear Lake. The hot springs are at Belknap Hot Springs Lodge and Gardens. Day use visitors can soak in one of the hot springs pools for a $10/hr fee.

American Dipper. Photo by Joan E. Newman

Originally posted June 22, 2023. Updated September 7, 2024.

All photos ©Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Beaver Creek Loop Trail

Where: Beaver Creek State Natural Area (now part of Brian Booth State Park) on the central Oregon coast

Distance: 2.7 to 3.3 miles, depending on starting point

Elevation gain: Minimal

Difficulty: Easy

Map: Beaver Creek State Natural Area website

Overview:

You might not find this hike in any guide book, and that is a big part of its appeal. Thousands of people flock to the Oregon coast every weekend, even in the winter, but very few will make their way to Beaver Creek. You won’t find the trails crowded, even on a sunny day when Ona Beach, where Beaver Creek flows into the ocean, is elbow to elbow with people. You won’t find an old growth forest on this hike, nor any grand views or waterfalls. The woods and marsh are pretty enough, but can’t compete with the scenic attractions of the beaches and headlands only a few miles away. But what you will find at Beaver Creek is peace and quiet. You may see blacktail deer, maybe a beaver or river otter in the creek, possibly a bald eagle or an osprey flying overhead. More than 75 species of birds can be found at Beaver Creek, so bring your binoculars. You’ll probably encounter a few other hikers on the trail or see people paddling the creek. But you’ll also be able to find some solitude here.

Getting there:

Beaver Creek State Natural Area is located about eight miles south of Newport, just off Hwy 101 on the central Oregon coast. At Ona Beach, turn east off of Hwy 101 onto North Beaver Creek Road instead of west into the beach parking lot. In 1.2 miles, you’ll come to the park’s visitor center (called the Welcome Center) on your right. The visitor center is open daily from 12:00 to 5:00. The staff will be happy to answer any questions you may have. You can get a map and brochure there, but I’d print out the map from the park website (linked above) before you leave home just in case. The first time I hiked this loop I didn’t have a map. The trail junctions we’re signed for the most part, but there were a few places where a map would have been a big help.

Trailheads:

You can start the hike at the visitor center in the summer and fall when the water level in the marsh is low. Ask at the visitor center if the trail across the marsh is passable.

There’s also a parking area along the road a few hundred yards east of the Welcome Center, so you can also start the hike there if you choose. You may also be able to get a map at the kiosk there.

From late fall through late spring the trail across the marsh will likely be submerged. If so, head back toward the beach on North Beaver Creek Road. In about a quarter mile, turn left onto South Beaver Creek Road. In just over one mile, look for a gate on the left side of the road with an Oregon State Park sign. Park at a pullout on the right side of the road just beyond the gate. Walk around the gate and up a service road. In a little less than half a mile you’ll come to a junction with the Beaver Creek Loop Trail on your right. You can either turn right onto the trail there (to do the loop in a counterclockwise direction), or walk up the road a couple hundred yards and pick up the trail just beyond a group of agricultural buildings (to do the loop in a clockwise direction).

The hike:

Starting at the visitor center, take the Beaver Marsh Trail east. In little over a quarter mile you’ll come to a boardwalk that takes you to a viewing platform out in the marsh. Beyond the boardwalk, the trail leads through the marsh to a bridge over Beaver Creek. On the other side of the bridge, you’ll come to a junction with the Beaver Creek Loop Trail. The loop can be hiked in either direction, but for our purposes we’ll turn right and do the hike counterclockwise.

From the bridge the trail follows an old access road (this area was privately owned until the early 2000s). In a quarter of a mile you’ll come to the junction with the North Fork Trail. If you’re pressed for time or just want a short hike, the North Fork Trail offers the shortest loop here (1.6 miles, starting and ending at the boardwalk parking area). Continuing on the main loop trail, you’ll come to the junction with the Snaggy Point Trail in another quarter of a mile. This is a popular trail that climbs 360 feet to a viewpoint overlooking the marsh and the Pacific Ocean beyond, then continues east to rejoin the main loop trail.

Beyond the Snaggy Point Trail junction, the loop trail continues through the forest along the edge of the marsh to a junction with the Antler Overlook Trail, which connects to the Cooper Ridge Trail and provides another overcrossing of the upland area. The main loop trail then continues through the forest to the agricultural buildings mentioned in the winter trailhead description. Beyond the buildings walk up the service road for a couple hundred yards and look for the loop trail branching off to the left. The trail follows the edge of an open field.

In another quarter of a mile you’ll come to a junction with the Elk Meadows Trail, an 0.8 mile loop through the woods and a couple of meadows. The main loop trail continues along the eastern edge of the Beaver Creek State Natural Area for another three quarters of a mile, passing the Cooper Ridge and Snaggy Point trail junctions, to the bridge across Beaver Creek and the trail back across the marsh.

With the out and back Beaver Marsh Trail, the full hike is 3.3 miles from the visitor center, 2.7 miles if you start and end the hike at the boardwalk parking area instead of the visitor center, and 2.9 miles from the winter trailhead. Add 0.8 mile to those numbers for Elk Meadow Trail extension. You can also make it a longer hike by taking a side trip through the upland area. All together there are a little over six miles of trails to explore in the park.

Other area attractions and activities:

Besides hiking the Beaver Creek Loop and the upland trails, another way to explore the area is by canoe or kayak. Just east of Hwy 101, there is a parking area and boat ramp on Beaver Creek that is an ideal launching point. The creek is a flat water paddle with little current, so it’s a good place for kids and beginners to try their hand at getting out on the water. It’s also possible to launch a canoe or kayak at the boardwalk parking area east of the visitor center and paddle across the marsh to the creek.

And, of course, the beach is right there. Rest your legs after your hike and lounge on the sand at Ona Beach for a while and watch the waves. Or, if you’re up for more hiking, it’s only a 1.5 mile walk on the beach to Seal Rock, one of the more scenic spots on the central coast.

Other interesting hikes in the central coast area that could easily be paired with Beaver Creek include God’s Thumb and Drift Creek Falls in the Lincoln City area. (Look for a post on the Drift Creek Falls hike later this spring.)

Tufted Puffin. Photo from the Oregon Coast Aquarium website.

And in the South Beach section of Newport, just south of the bay bridge, there are two attractions well worth a stop on your way to or from Beaver Creek. The Oregon Coast Aquarium is one of the Pacific Coast’s premier aquariums, and Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Science Center is home to one of the country’s top marine science education and research programs. The Oregon Coast Aquarium is open 10:00-5:00 daily. Ticket prices range from $15 for children 3-12 to $25 for adults. Admission for seniors (65+) and teens (3-17) is $20. Infants and toddlers get in free. Tickets can be purchased online or at the gate. The visitor center at the Hatfield Center is open 10:00-4:00 Thu-Mon. Admission is $5 (ages five and up) and tickets need to be purchased online on the center’s website.

Posted March 14, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

Port Townsend

by Alan K. Lee

Port Townsend has long been one of my favorite towns in the Pacific Northwest. Port Townsend has it all – a beautiful setting on Puget Sound, some of the best preserved Victorian homes and buildings in the Northwest, an active maritime and boat building industry, a thriving arts community, fine food and drink, and a friendly populace.

Port Townsend bills itself as a “Victorian Seaport and Arts Community.” The town never became the major seaport that its early promoters envisioned it becoming, but the Victorian character of the town has been well preserved, and the arts community is thriving.

Although Port Townsend is no longer a player in the shipping industry, sailing and the marine trades, and maritime life are ingrained in the town’s culture. The hugely popular Wooden Boat Festival grew out of the revival of interest in wooden boats that began in the 1970s. The festival led to the creation of the Northwest Maritime Center, located in Port Townsend’s historic downtown. Today, the center conducts classes in sailing, maritime skills, and the traditions of maritime life.

Wooden sailing ships were key to the town’s early economy and history, and the boatbuilding and woodworking crafts live on in Port Townsend. The Northwest School of Wooden Boat Building in nearby Port Hadlock and the Port Townsend School of Woodworking help preserve and promote the skills that were so vital to the early history of Port Townsend.

While its history is important to understanding Port Townsend, the town is anything but stuck in the past. Modern Port Townsend’s vibrant artists community is a reflection of the town’s modern aesthetic. You’ll find outdoor sculptures scattered throughout the town, and more than a dozen fine art and craft galleries can be found in the historic waterfront section of town.

A variety of festivals throughout the year feature the performing arts. Music festivals include jazz and blues, ukulele and fiddle music, a classical concert series, and others, many presented by the Centrum Foundation. The annual Port Townsend Film Festival features more than 100 films presented in eight venues. The Key City Public Theatre puts on a Shakespeare In the Park series every August. The plays are presented on a “pay-what-you-wish” basis at Chetzemoka Park, on the waterfront a few blocks north of the historic district. And then there’s the steampunk lunacy of the more or less impossible to describe Brass Screw Consortium (aka Brass Screw Confederacy).

If you want to really understand what Port Townsend is all about, you need to delve into the town’s history, explore the town’s maritime heritage, and sample the town’s artistic leanings. A good place to start is the Jefferson Museum of Art and History in the 1892 City Hall building in the historic downtown area along the waterfront.

Take a walk along Water Street. It’s not hard to imagine what the town was like 130 years ago because most of the buildings you see today date from that period. Venture up to the bluff above the waterfront and you’ll find many Victorian era homes, most of which have been well preserved or restored. If you visit in the summer months you can tour the Rothschild House, which was built in 1868 and has been preserved intact for more than a hundred years.

Visit Fort Worden State Park. Most of the fort’s original buildings have been preserved, some as museum pieces, such as the Commanding Officer’s Quarters Museum, and some repurposed to meet today’s changed lifestyle, like the Taps at the Guardhouse pub. Visit Point Hudson Lighthouse and the aquarium at the Marine Science Center on the waterfront at Fort Worden.

The history of the area predates European settlement, of course, and you can learn a little of that through the 18 interpretive signs that describe aspects of the S’Klallam tribe’s history and culture along the číčməhán trail. číčməhán (pronounced cheech-ma-han) was a S’Klallam chief known to the European settlers as Chetzemoka. The trail consists of walking, cycling, and driving routes around the town connecting the 18 signs.

Even if you’re not interested in the town’s history, its maritime traditions, or the arts, Port Townsend is still worth visiting, if only to take in its beautiful setting and indulge in its food and drink scene.

Explore the waterfront, but venture inland as well. Take a walk around the Kah Tai Lagoon Nature Park, about a mile west of the historic district. And visit the Chinese Gardens west of Fort Worden. The trail along the lake there, and the connecting trails through the hills of Fort Worden State Park are very much worth hiking. (When we first visited, I was thinking the Chinese Gardens would be like the formal Lan Su Garden in Portland. But in this case the name refers to the 19th Century Chinese immigrants’ vegetable gardens, which, of course, no longer exist).

When you’re done with your hike, check to see if Taps at the Guardhouse in Fort Worden is open (it was closed in 2022) to quench your thirst with a good craft brew. Back in the historic district, I highly recommend that you visit Sirens. The atmosphere is casual and relaxed, and they have a good selection of craft beers, cocktails, specialty drinks, and wines. But the surprise for me was the food. The jambalaya that I had may not have been authentic Cajun fare, but it was one of the best meals I’ve had in a recent memory. Not your typical pub food by a long ways.

Other places to get a good beer include Quench Waterfront Kitchen and Bar, where you can get Hawaiian food as well as craft brews and cocktails. They also have a decent wine list. Also check out The Old Whiskey Mill in the historic district, and Propolis Brewing and the Pourhouse, both about a mile to the west. If you’re more interested in wine than beer, Vintage by Port Townsend Vineyards is a tasting room with an outdoor courtyard and some of the best wines around. Also try Alchemy Wine Bar. They have an extensive wine list and a bistro kitchen.

On the food side, Owl Spirit Cafe is a good place to grab a sandwich or burrito for lunch. If you have pizza in mind, try Waterfront Pizza. My go to spot for breakfast and lunch is Courtyard Cafe, on Quincy Street a block north of Water Street. A more upscale dining experience can be had at Silverwater Cafe at Taylor and Washington. There are many other places to eat and drink, too, of course. Check the Enjoy Port Townsend website for a more complete listing.

My wife and I stayed at the Water Street Hotel on our most recent visit, recently renamed the Monarch Hotel. Located in the ornate Victorian era N.D. Hill Building in the heart of the historic downtown area, the hotel features comfortable and nicely appointed rooms for a reasonable price. The N.D. Hill Building is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. There are a myriad of other places to stay in Port Townsend, of course, so check the Enjoy Port Townsend website (linked above) for more options. One note, though. If you’re planning to visit during the Wooden Boat Festival in September, book early. I wound up staying in Poulsbo after I made a late decision to attend the 40th annual festival in 2018 because there were no rooms available anywhere near Port Townsend. Poulsbo is a delightful town in its own right, though, so I was not unhappy about having to make the 30-mile drive to Port Townsend each day.

I’ve just scratched the surface of what Port Townsend has to offer. If you’ve never visited, I highly recommend that you go. I’m guessing that it won’t be your only visit.

Originally posted November 20, 2020. Updated and re-posted January 12, 2023.

Banff National Park

by Alan K. Lee

Banff National Park in the Canadian Rockies is flat out gorgeous, one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. My wife and I made our first visit a couple of decades ago and loved it. But it took us twenty years to get back. We finally made it back to Banff in August 2019 as part of a long road trip from our home in the Portland, Oregon area.

It was a long drive. It’s more than 700 miles from Portland to Banff by the shortest route, even farther by the route we took. We took our time, though, and stopped in a number of places in southern British Columbia on the way. (Banff is a long ways from pretty much everywhere. If you don’t want to make the long drive, another option is to fly to Calgary and rent a car. Banff is less than a two hour drive west of Calgary.)

Besides being incredibly scenic, Banff is also significant in that it is part of one of the largest protected areas in North America. The park borders three other Canadian national parks, Kootenay, Yoho, and Jasper. The four national parks in turn border more than half a dozen provincial parks and protected areas. Altogether, the contiguous protected area totals more than 12,000 square miles (31,500 square kilometers). That’s almost four times the size of Yellowstone National Park, for comparison.

Historic North West Mounted Police Barracks, Canmore

On our 2019 trip, we rented a house in Canmore, just outside the park, since it was more affordable than staying in the park itself. Canmore turned out to be a pretty interesting place in its own right. It has a compact and very walkable downtown area with plenty of cafes and restaurants, brew pubs (try Canmore Brewing), interesting art galleries (don’t miss the Jeff Walker Gallery), and some interesting historical sites. There’s also a nice walking trail along Policeman’s Creek. And Canmore is only about a five minute drive from the southern entrance to Banff National Park.

The town of Banff, although crowded and touristy, is charming enough to warrant at least a few hours of your time. The Banff Springs Hotel is also worth a visit, even if you’re not staying there. If you’re a hiker, try the Tunnel Mountain Trail. We didn’t hike all the way to the top, but still got some great views of the town and the surrounding mountains, and a good workout.

One of the best hikes you’ll find anywhere is the Johnston Canyon Trail, about 15 miles north of the town of Banff. Here Johnston Creek cascades through a narrow gorge with many small waterfalls and two larger ones.

Another must see destination in Banff National Park is Moraine Lake. The turquoise blue water and soaring peaks surrounding the lake make it one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. It’s an easy walk up to a stunning viewpoint from the parking lot, and there is a trail along the shoreline that gives you more incredible views of this beautiful lake and the high peaks above it. You can also rent a canoe there and get out on the water for more spectacular views. And again, go early. Parking at the lake is limited and traffic on the road to the lake may be restricted if the parking lot is full.

You can avoid the parking hassles and the crowds, at least in the morning or evening, by booking a room at the Moraine Lake Lodge. It’s expensive, but if you can afford it, it might be worth it.

Lake Louise is justifiably famous, but fame brings people. Lots of people. There’s a lot more parking here than at Moraine Lake, but even though we were there early, we still had to park in one of the lower lots and walk up to the lake. And honestly, Moraine Lake is even prettier and less crowded. But if you’ve never been there, seeing Lake Louise is worth fighting the crowds. Rent a canoe and get out on the water, or take a hike along the shore to get away from the crowds. And, like the Banff Springs Hotel, Chateau Lake Louise is a destination in itself.

The portion of Banff National Park north of Lake Louise has a lot of attractions that many visitors never see. This part of the park was new to me. On our first trip we were among the many that didn’t venture north of Lake Louise. On this trip we did, though. Our journey took us on into Jasper National Park on the Icefields Parkway.

Drive a few miles north from Lake Louise on the Trans Canada Highway, turn onto the Icefields Parkway, and you’re in a different world. The crowds thin out and the country becomes wilder, more open, and more removed from civilization.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to really explore that part of the park. We made a quick stop at Hector Lake viewpoint, only a few miles from Lake Louise, and stopped for a little longer at Bow Lake before motoring on into Jasper National Park. (Click here to go to our post on Jasper.)

There’s much more to Banff than I have described here, of course. It’s a big park, and you could easily spend a couple of weeks there without running out of things to do, longer if you also visit some of the surrounding parks. But it’s worth the effort to get there at least once in your life, even if you can only spend a few days there.

“B’Air of Importance” by Shannon Ford, Banff Springs Hotel

Originally posted December 26, 2022. Most recently updated July 31, 2024.

Bandon, Oregon

by Alan K. Lee

Bandon-by-the-sea

Bandon, Oregon, on the southern Oregon coast, happens to have been my home for the first seven years of my life. Although I did most of my growing up in Salem, I consider Bandon my home town as much or more than I do Salem. I go back to Bandon often, most recently in July this year (2024).

History

Bandon was founded almost 150 years ago by George Bennett (often referred to as Lord Bennett), an Irish peer from Bandon, Ireland. In its early days, the economy of Bandon, Oregon was primarily agricultural. Bandon has been known for both its cheese and cranberries since the 1880s. The first jetty was also constructed in the 1880s, and Bandon was soon home to a fishing fleet and a robust shipping industry.

One of the things Lord Bennett brought to Bandon from Ireland was gorse, a thorny, thick growing plant with bright yellow flowers. In Ireland it was used for privacy hedges and property boundaries because it is almost impenetrable. In Oregon it went wild and was one of the state’s first invasive plants. Besides being thick and thorny, it is also a very oily plant and burns readily. In 1936 a small forest fire started from a slash burn that got out of hand, spread to the gorse near the town, and then to the town itself, destroying all but 16 of the 500 structures in the town. The fire decimated the community and all but ended shipping to and from the harbor.

In my youth, Bandon was primarily a mill town, with fishing and agriculture secondary industries. Today, the lumber and plywood mills are long gone. There is still a small fishing fleet that operates out of the harbor, Bandon is still one of the leading cranberry producing areas of the country, and dairy farming is still an important component of the economy. But it is tourism that drives the economy today. The three main tourist draws are the beaches, Bandon Dunes Golf Resort, and the old town section of Bandon.

The Beaches

The beaches on either side of the Coquille River are dramatically different. To the north, a wide flat beach stretches for ten miles to the Cape Arago headland, interrupted only by Fivemile Point. The north beach can be accessed from Bullards Beach State Park, Whisky Run, located just north of Bandon Dunes, and Seven Devils State Park, another mile or so to the north.

The beach to the south of the Coquille River is a spectacular collection of sea stacks and offshore islands, including Face Rock and Table Rock, that are part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge. This is rightly regarded as one of the most beautiful beaches on the Oregon Coast.

Access can be had from the south jetty area, from the wayside at the end of 11th Street, and from Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint on the Beach Loop Road. Farther south on the Beach Loop Road are other beach access points at Devils Kitchen and Bandon State Natural Area.

Coquille River Lighthouse

The Coquille River Lighthouse is located at the mouth of the Coquille River on the north jetty, across the river from the old town section of Bandon. It was constructed in 1895-96 and began operating on February 29, 1896. In addition to the lighthouse itself, there was a foghorn, a lighthouse keeper’s residence, and a barn. Various improvements were made in the following years, including a boathouse for the lighthouse tender. None of the other structures remain.

In 1939 the Coast Guard took over the lighthouse and deemed it unnecessary. The lighthouse was replaced by an automated light on the south jetty. The lighthouse sat abandoned for 24 years until it became part of the new Bullards Beach State Park in 1963. It was another 13 years before renovation of the lighthouse began, but it finally opened to the public in 1979. In 1991, during Bandon’s centennial celebration, a solar powered light was installed, ending the Coquille River Lighthouse’s 52 years of darkness. Further renovation of the lighthouse was done in 2007. The lighthouse closed to the public due to the Covid-19 pandemic and has yet to re-open, so you can’t go inside, but the road to it and the parking area are open.

Circles in the Sand

Denny Dyke began creating labyrinths on the Bandon beach in 2011 as part of his ministry, Sacred Journeys. The labyrinths are intended as a form of walking meditation. Over the next few years Dyke created hundreds of labyrinths, and he and a team of volunteers continue to create dozens of labyrinths every year, each unique and lasting only until the next high tide.

The Circles in the Sand labyrinths have become true works of art in the thirteen years that Dyke and his team have been creating them. They have also become very popular events, as have other walking labyrinths in other locations.

Golf

If you’re a golfer, you have likely heard a lot about Bandon Dunes Golf Resort. There are now five full length courses: Bandon Dunes, Pacific Dunes, Bandon Trails, Old MacDonald, and Sheep Ranch.

All of the Bandon Dunes courses are consistently rated in the top 100 courses in the United States, and the 13 hole par three course, Bandon Preserve, is a challenge in itself. A few miles south of town, Bandon Crossings offers a lesser known, much less expensive, and equally challenging course that should be on every golfer’s radar.

Old Town

Bandon’s Old Town area is loaded with restaurants, galleries, gift shops, and outdoor art exhibits. Art lovers will want to visit Second Street Gallery, and everyone should take in the Washed Ashore exhibit, which displays sculptures and other artworks created entirely from marine debris picked up from the beach. Washed Ashore is a non-profit organization dedicated to educating the public about plastic pollution of the oceans and waterways, and to making positive changes in consumer habits.

Good eats abound in Old Town. Start your day at Bandon Coffee Cafe, Jenn’s Joint Coffee Shop, Bandon Baking Company, or Shoestring Cafe. Stop at Face Rock Creamery to sample locally made cheeses and ice cream. Seafood lovers will want to sample the fare at Tony’s Crab Shack and Bandon Fish Market. Pub fare and quality draft beer are both to be had at Foley’s Irish Pub and Bandon Brewing Company. Decent and very affordable Mexican food can be had at La Fiesta. And if more upscale dining is what you’re looking for, try The Loft Restaurant and Bar or Alloro Wine Bar and Restaurant.

Accommodations

There are many hotels, motels, vacation rentals, and other accommodations in Bandon. Useful websites include: Visit the Oregon Coast, Bandon Chamber of Commerce, Bandon Dunes Golf Resort, Trip Advisor, Airbnb, and Vacasa.

There is a campground at Bullards Beach State Park with 103 full-hookup sites and 82 sites with water and electricity. And there are a number of commercial RV parks in the immediate area.

Getting There

Bandon isn’t exactly easy to get to. It’s about a 2½ hour drive from Eugene, three hours from Medford, and 4½-5 hours from Portland. There are no commercial flights to Bandon Airport. United Express does have daily flights from San Francisco and twice weekly flights from Denver to the Southwest Regional Airport in North Bend, but there are no direct flights between North Bend and Portland or other cities. There is no railroad serving Bandon, and there does not appear to be any bus service to Bandon. But Bandon’s remoteness means that it is less crowded than the northern or central Oregon coast, and the spectacularly beautiful beaches and interesting old town make it worth the trip. And, of course, there is Bandon Dunes, if you’re a golf fanatic.

Consider combining a visit to Bandon with a drive south along the spectacular Southern Oregon Coast and through the Redwoods of the northern California coast, one of the most beautiful and least visited sections of the Pacific coast. My wife and I did just that in 2022. Give yourself a week or more for that trip because there is just so much to see and do.

Best Times To Visit

For my money, September and October are the best months to visit Bandon and the rest of the Oregon coast. The summer crowds are gone, the high winds that frequently makes the beaches uncomfortable on summer afternoons are less frequent and the weather is often better in the fall than any other time of the year. But there is really no bad time to visit.

Originally posted July 24, 2018. Most recently updated August 4, 2024.

Kaua’i, the Garden Isle

By Alan K. Lee

My wife and I have been to Hawai’i many times, but only once to Kaua’i. But that was a memorable trip, and I’ve been contemplating a return to Kaua’i lately.

Kaua’i is called the Garden Isle, and for good reason. Abundant rainfall and the tropical climate make the island a botanical paradise. Think of the jungle depicted in the movie Jurassic Park. Much of the original movie and sequels were filmed on Kaua’i.

No trip to Kaua’i is complete without visiting at least one of the island’s famed botanical gardens. Three of the five National Tropical Botanical Gardens are located on Kaua’i. Other notable botanical gardens on Kaua’i include Na ‘Aina Kai Botanical Garden and Princeville Botanical Garden on the north shore, and Smith’s Tropical Paradise on the east shore in Wailua River State Park. Check the park websites for ticket prices, open dates, and details. Na ‘Aina Kai and Princeville require advanced purchase of tickets. Tickets to Smith’s are available only at the park entrance.

National Tropical Botanical Garden is a non-profit corporation chartered by the U.S. Congress in 1964, dedicated to “discovering, saving, and studying the world’s tropical plants and sharing what is learned.” The three NTBG gardens on Kaua’i are Limahuli Garden and Preserve on the north shore, and Allerton Garden and McBryde Garden on the south shore in the Lawa’i Valley.

We toured McBryde Garden on our visit and it was one of the highlights of our trip. Advanced purchase of tickets is not required, but is strongly advised. Tickets are limited and are likely to be sold out. Tickets are $30 for adults and $15 for children, and stays are limited to 2.75 hours. Open Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday in 2025. The adjacent Allerton Garden also requires you to buy timed entry tickets ($65 for adults, $32.50 for children under 13). All Allerton Garden tours are 2.5 hour guided tours. McBryde Garden tours are self-guided. Combined McBryde and Allerton guided tours are available for the same price as Allerton Garden guided tours and are available for Tuesday and Saturday tours.

Limahuli Garden self-guided tours are $30 for adults and free for children under 13. Timed entry tickets are required if arriving by car and parking must be reserved at the time of purchase. Timed entry tickets are not required if arriving by North Shore Shuttle and there is a $5 discount off ticket prices. Limahuli guided tours are available for $60 (adults only, no children allowed) and parking is included. Tours are 2.5 hours long and are available at 9 a.m. only on Tuesday and Thursday. Advance reservations are required.

If you tour McBryde or Allerton Garden, also stop at the nearby Spouting Horn Park, especially if the surf is up. Spouting Horn is a blowhole that shoots water fifty to a hundred feet into the air every ten seconds or so when it is most active, an impressive sight to say the least.

There’s more to do on Kaua’i than touring botanical gardens, of course. Relaxing on a tropical beach has to be high on every visitor’s priority list, and Kaua’i has many, many fine beaches. One of the best beaches on the island, and listed in one article I’ve read as one of the best beaches in the world, is Polihale Beach on the west end of the island.

The last few miles of the road to Polihale is a rough, pothole filled sand, gravel and dirt track that is best tackled with an SUV or pickup. We managed it in a compact rental car, though, so it can be done if you take your time. But the road was clearly not being maintained, and it may have gotten worse in the decade since we were there. But if you can manage to get there, you’ll be rewarded with three miles of uninterrupted and uncrowded beach ending at the spectacular cliffs of the NaPali Coast.

Polihale State Park has no lifeguards and there are strong currents, so it’s not a good swimming beach. Best to stay out of the water. And there is no drinking water available (or any services), so if you go, plan on bringing everything you’ll need. But despite all that, the scenery and the solitude that you can find there make it well worth it.

A more accessible beach on the west end of the island is Kekaha Beach Park. Located at the southern end of a nearly five mile long stretch of sand, Kekaha Beach is one of the best places on the island to view the sunset, but lacks Polihale’s scenery and seclusion. Glass Beach is also a worthwhile stop.

Poipu Beach on the south shore is all things Polihale is not. It’s a very popular and always crowded tourist destination. You won’t find anything resembling solitude there and the scenery doesn’t compare to Polihale. But it’s easy to get to, a good swimming beach, and one of the best places on the island to snorkel. And all of the amenities you could ask for are close at hand.

Many of the best beaches on Kaua’i are on the north shore. Moloa’a is a nice uncrowded beach on the north shore where you’re likely to find more locals than tourists. Kauapea Beach (aka Secret Beach) is a not so secret beach just west of the town of Kilauea. The trailhead is at the end of Secret Beach Road. Anini Beach is another place where you might find more locals than tourists. Kalihikai Park at Anini Beach has picnic tables, restrooms, and outdoor showers. Hanalei, farther east, also has a nice beach and the town is an interesting place that would be worth a visit on its own, even without the beach.

Tunnels Beach is another popular north shore beach. It’s best to park at Ha’ena Beach Park, although there are now entrance and parking fees for non-residents ($5 per person and $10 per vehicle) which must be purchased in advance. Tunnels is about a third of a mile east of Ha’ena Beach. There is a shorter trail to the beach from the highway, but parking is very limited and I don’t believe it is signed, so it may be easy to miss. There are restrooms, showers and lifeguards at Ha’ena Beach, but not at Tunnels.

Ke’e Beach, at the end of the road, is protected by a reef, making it good for swimming and snorkeling, except in the winter months when all of the north shore beaches can be subject to high surf and strong currents. Even when we were there around the first of April there were warnings of dangerous conditions. Ke’e is part of Ha’ena Beach Park and the same entry and parking fees apply. The parking lot at the end of the road fills up early, partly because it is also the trailhead for the famed Kalalau Trail. There is an overflow parking area about a quarter mile from the end of the road that might be a better option. There are restrooms and showers at Ke’e, and lifeguards on duty.

These are only a few of the dozens of beaches on Kaua’i. For a more comprehensive list, check out the beaches page of the Kauai.com website.

A good way to see the whole island is by helicopter. Most one hour helicopter tours run from $220 to $320 per adult. We opted for a “doors off” tour because we wanted to get better photos than you can get by shooting through a helicopter window. I had never flown in a helicopter before and I have to admit to being a bit nervous before the flight, and not just because we were going doorless. But the whole thing was a blast and I never felt in any danger. And we both got some great photos.

The only disappointment was that the NaPali Coast had some low clouds obscuring the tops of the cliffs. But I highly recommend the experience. There is no other way to see the whole island the way you can by helicopter. And the only way to view the 400 foot high Manawaiopuna Falls (aka Jurassic Park Falls) is from the air.

Kaua’i’s abundant rain and mountainous terrain result in many spectacular waterfalls. One of the prettiest is the twin cascades of Wailua Falls, about five miles west of Lihue. The falls are at the end of Maalo Road (Hwy 583). You can get a decent view of the falls from the observation area adjacent to the road. There is a very steep unmaintained trail down to the base of the falls where you probably can get better photos, but there are prominent danger signs that are probably there for a reason, so I wouldn’t risk the trail, especially if it is wet. (If you opt for a helicopter tour you will get a very good view of the falls from the air.)

Another beautiful waterfall in the same area is Opaeka’a Falls. Again, no trail to the falls, but a good view from the highway. Opaeka’a Falls is two miles west of Wailua on Kuamo’o Road (Hwy 580).

An interesting waterfall, this one at the end of a hike through a Jurassic Park-like tropical rain forest, is Ho’opi’i Falls (actually two separate falls). These are a little harder to find, and they’re not big falls, but the trail to them is absolutely awesome. If its raining or has rained recently, the trail will likely be muddy and slippery, but I think it would still be worth the effort. We were lucky enough to do this hike when it was dry, so it was an easy and thoroughly enjoyable outing for us.

The trailhead is on Kapahi Road west of Kapa’a. Please note that Kapahi Road is a residential area and not all of the residents welcome tourists, so be respectful of the locals. Park in the gravel area provided, not in front of any of their homes, please be quiet (especially early in the day), and don’t leave any trash behind when you depart.

One more interesting falls is Red Dirt Falls on Waimea Canyon Drive, north of the town of Waimea. This is a seasonal falls, so it may not be flowing when you’re there, and it’s a very small waterfall that would be totally unremarkable if it weren’t carved out of the striking red dirt that gives it its name. It’s located at about the 23 mile marker on Hwy 550.

There are more waterfalls to be seen farther up Waimea Canyon, which is one of the must see destination on Kaua’i. It’s often called the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. The red dirt that makes Red Dirt Falls so compelling also gives the canyon a much different look than most of the other scenic attractions on the island. The canyon is 14 miles long, a mile wide, and as much as 3500 feet deep – not as big or as deep as the real Grand Canyon, but still pretty impressive.

There are two state parks, Waimea Canyon and Koke’e in the canyon. For non-residents there is the same $5 per person entrance fee and $10 per vehicle parking fee as at Haena Beach State Park. The fees get you into both parks. You don’t have to pay twice.

View from Kalalau Overlook, Koke’e State Park

There are numerous viewpoints along the highway in the two parks that give you expansive views of the canyon and its waterfalls. And the highway takes you to the top of the NaPali Coast cliffs. Two truly spectacular viewpoints in Koke’e Park give you views down to the NaPali Coast and the ocean more than 4000 feet below you.

For hikers, there are more than 45 miles of trails in the canyon. You could easily spend days in the canyon and not hike all of the trails. For those that do want to spend multiple days hiking or sightseeing, Koke’e Lodge offers rustic cabins with kitchens. There is also a campground in Koke’e State Park and there are other cabins available nearby. And Waimea town at the base of the canyon has many lodging options.

Updating this post brought back a lot of memories and stoked my desire to go back to Kaua’i and revisit some of the places we explored in 2012.

Posted July 28, 2021. Updated October 20, 2024.

Natural Bridges National Monument

By Alan K. Lee

Introduction

Among the many national parks and monuments of southern Utah, Natural Bridges National Monument often gets overlooked. The Big Five national parks – Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, and Arches (and Grand Staircase- Escalante National Monument) are all deserving of the accolades they receive. They all are full of spectacularly beautiful and awe inspiring places. But if a trip to southern Utah is on your bucket list, don’t leave out a visit to Natural Bridges.

First Impressions

My first visit to Natural Bridges made a lasting impression on me almost immediately. We were there on a very hot day, but once we descended into the canyon, we entered a cool, shaded riparian environment very different from the hot desert landscape above. Natural bridges, unlike arches, are formed by the erosive action of flowing water. And it is that water that makes this place such a welcoming oasis.

My wife and I have been back once since that first visit. The photos here were taken on that second trip in 2008. I think we’re long overdue for a third visit.

Geology

Some 260 million years ago eastern Utah was on the shores of an ancient sea. Over many millions of years the sand deposited on the sea floor was compressed into sandstone, then uplifted by tectonic forces that created the Colorado Plateau. Rivers and streams have since cut their way into the relatively soft sandstone, leaving arches where harder rock overlaid softer, more easily eroded rock.

The white Cedar Mesa Sandstone of the canyons in Natural Bridges was formed from white quartz sand with relatively little iron. The red and orange sandstone of the mesa tops gets its color from more iron rich rocks. Oxygen and hydrogen react with the iron, forming compounds that vary in color depending on the relative proportions of oxygen and hydrogen in the rock.

Human Presence

The Natural Bridges area has been inhabited periodically for about 9000 years. For most of that period, nomadic hunter-gatherers passed through the area. Many of the petroglyphs you’ll find on the canyon walls were done by these Archaic peoples.

The Ancestral Puebloan people began farming the mesa tops around 1500 years ago, but later abandoned the area, presumably because of a prolonged drought. After 300 years, the ancestors of modern day Hopi and Navajo returned to the Natural Bridges area, only to abandon the area again around the year 1280 CE. Modern Hopi, Navaho, and Paiute peoples reoccupied the area once again at later dates.

Europeans didn’t discover the area until 1883 when prospector Cass Hite ventured into the canyons looking for gold. He didn’t find any gold, but he did find the three magnificent natural bridges. Twenty years later, National Geographic Magazine published an article about the bridges, gaining the attention of President Theodore Roosevelt, who established Natural Bridges National Monument in 1908, Utah’s first national monument.

The bridges were named President, Senator and Congressman by Cass Hite. Later explorers gave them the names Augusta, Caroline and Edwin. But neither set of names stuck. In 1909 the bridges were given the Hopi names they carry today: Sipapu, Kachina, and Owachomo.

Getting There

Natural Bridges is located in southeastern Utah, south of Canyonlands National Park. From the town of Blanding drive south on US 191 then turn west on Utah Highway 95. In about 30 miles turn right on Utah 275. The Natural Bridges Visitor Center is 4.5 miles from the junction with Hwy 95.

Visitor Center

The Natural Bridges Visitor Center is a logical first stop when visiting the monument. Pick up a map of the park, fill your water bottles, and ask the staff for information on current conditions, hiking trails, park history, geology, plants and wildlife, etc. There is also a small store and public restrooms. The restrooms and water are available even when the visitor center is closed.

Bridge View Drive

Bridge View Drive is a nine mile one way loop road through the monument, with about a dozen viewpoints, all worth stopping at. There are maintained trails descending into the canyon to all three bridges from Bridge View Drive. All are short, easy hikes down into the canyons, without a huge amount of elevation gain on the return to the canyon rim. There is also an unmaintained trail in the canyon bottoms linking the three bridges, and there is a trail on top of the mesa between the Sipapu Bridge and Kachina Bridge viewpoints.

Night Skies

As beautiful and spectacular as Natural Bridges is during the day, it may be even more so at night. I say it may be only because I’ve not been there after dark. But by all accounts, star gazing is one of the park’s top attractions. Of the 104 International Dark Sky Parks in the world, Natural Bridges was the first so designated.

Where To Stay

There is a small first come first served campground adjacent to the visitor center in the monument, but there are no water, electric, or sewer hookups. The nearest town of any size is Blanding. There are several RV parks and a variety of motels and other accommodations in Blanding, as well as a number of cafes and restaurants.

Roadtripping

Natural Bridges can be included in a gigantic loop that includes Zion, Cedar Breaks, Bryce Canyon, Grand Staircase-Escalante, Capitol Reef, Arches, Canyonlands, Mesa Verde, Monument Valley, Lake Powell, and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon – a truly epic road trip that might take a month or longer to fully experience. And, of course, there are a variety of shorter loops that can be done if you can’t fit all of those destinations into your plans.

Conclusion

Any road trip to southeastern Utah should include a visit to Natural Bridges. It’s a beautiful, interesting, and unique place very worthy of its place among the other parks and monuments of the region. And the surrounding region, part of the 1.3 million acre Bears Ears National Monument, is also well worth exploring.

Originally posted July 10, 2021. Updated July 21, 2024.