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Sunriver Resort

by Alan K. Lee

Sunriver Resort in Central Oregon has become a favorite destination for my wife and I over the years. Even during the first year of the corona virus pandemic we spent the 4th of July holiday at Sunriver with my step-daughter and her family. That year was a little different – we cooked all of our meals at the house we rented instead of dining out as we usually do, for example. But the nature center was open (with restrictions), as was the marina and the stables. And there are miles of bike paths winding through the resort and residential areas, which we took full advantage of.

Sunriver Resort is located about 15 miles south of Bend on the site of the former Camp Abbot, a WWII era Army training facility for combat engineers. After the end of WWII, Camp Abbot was abandoned. Most of the buildings were demolished and the land was sold to private developers. The only remaining Camp Abbot structure is the former officer’s club, now the resort’s Great Hall. Of Camp Abbot’s 5500 acres, 2200 were added to the Deschutes National Forest and the remaining 3300 acres eventually became what is now Sunriver.

Sunriver is more than just a destination resort. It is also a planned community of more than 4000 homes and condominium units. Most of the residences are second homes, many of them available as short-term rentals. Sunriver also has about 1500 full time residents, a fire department, several parks, community water and wastewater treatment systems, a public works facility that maintains the roads, bike paths and parks, and an airport.

Recreational facilities at the resort include two public golf courses, two private courses open to resort guests, tennis and pickleball courts, several swimming pools, parks, and the large Sunriver Homeowners Aquatic and Recreation Center (SHARC). Sunriver Marina offers canoe and kayak rentals and guided rafting trips. And the Sunriver Stables offer horseback and pony rides.

In the winter, snow sports take center stage. Snowshoe and cross country ski trails are close by. Alpine skiers and snowboarders make up a large portion of Sunriver’s winter visitors, as Mount Bachelor, one of the Northwest’s premier ski areas, is only about a 30 minute drive from the resort. Mount Bachelor also has a Nordic center with more than 30 miles of cross country ski trails.

With 300 days of sunshine a year, Sunriver has much to offer the outdoor enthusiast. Hiking, biking, fishing, and river rafting and paddling are all popular summer activities. The Deschutes River forms the western boundary of the resort, and the river is wide and placid in that stretch, perfect for a leisurely float. And floating the river is a very popular activity in the summer. The river is often crowded with people enjoying the river in canoes, kayaks, rafts, and inner tubes.

Downstream of the resort, the river changes drastically, becoming narrow and raging as it cuts through an ancient lava flow. Scenic Benham Falls is only a few miles from the resort. A relatively flat paved bike path makes cycling from Sunriver to Benham Falls quick and easy. You can also drive there, but the bike path is shorter and probably faster. And there is a somewhat longer and more challenging mountain bike trail from Sunriver to the falls for the more adventurous.

The bike path continues on to Lava Butte and the Lava Lands Visitor Center, part of Newberry National Volcanic Monument. Also part of the National Monument, Newberry Crater (actually a caldera) contains two lakes, East and Paulina, and a large and fascinating obsidian flow. You can also drive to the summit of Paulina Peak on the caldera rim where you’ll look down into the caldera and take in the panoramic views of the Cascade Range peaks to the west, the ponderosa and lodgepole pine forests surrounding the caldera, and the sage and juniper lands of the high desert to the east. Newberry Crater is about 25 miles by road from Sunriver. (Look for a future post on this site with more information and photos of Newberry Crater).

Sunriver Resort makes an ideal base for exploring all that Central Oregon offers. Besides Newberry Crater and Lava Butte, other attractions in Newberry National Volcanic Monument include the Lava Cast Forest , and Lava River Cave.

West of Sunriver, the Cascade Lakes Highway runs parallel to the crest of the Cascade Range and passes close to Todd, Sparks, and Elk Lakes. Hosmer Lake, just off the highway, is a fly fishing only lake where motor boats are prohibited, making it ideal for paddlers. The highway also passes close by Big and Little Lava Lakes, Davis Lake, Cultus Lake, Crane Prairie Reservoir, and Wickiup Reservoir. For those seeking to get deeper into nature, numerous hiking trails lead from the highway into the adjacent Three Sisters Wilderness Area to the west.

While you’re in the area, I highly recommend that you visit the High Desert Museum, on Hwy 97 about ten miles north of Sunriver. The museum offers visitors a chance to see native wildlife up close, and to learn about both the pioneering history of the area and the culture and lifestyles of the Native American tribes that lived in the area for thousands of years prior to the arrival of white settlers. The High Desert Museum consistently rates as one of the top attractions in Central Oregon.

For those wanting a more urban experience, Bend is only about a 20 minute drive north of Sunriver. Once a small lumber town, Bend is now a fast growing city with a population of about 90,000. Besides being one of the West’s premier outdoor recreation centers, Bend also has many fine dining establishments, brew pubs, wine bars, boutique hotels, art galleries, and numerous specialty shops. I’ll cover Bend in more detail in a future post.

Sunriver itself has a variety of restaurants, a nice brew pub (Sunriver Brewing), a number of small shops, and many fun things for kids to do (think bumper cars and climbing walls). Most of that is concentrated in The Village, located near the main entry to the resort. The Lodge also has several restaurants, and there is a Mexican restaurant (Hola!) on the river next to Sunriver Marina.

Sunriver Resort offers a variety of rooms and suites in the Lodge and adjacent Lodge Village and River Lodges. More than 300 homes and condos in Sunriver can also be booked through the resort. Check the resort website for more information. Many other vacation rentals are available through VRBO, Vacasa, Airbnb, and Sunriver Vacation Rentals.

We’ve visited Sunriver Resort many times, and we will return again many more times, I’m sure. It’s a great place for the whole family, and Central Oregon is a paradise for people who love the outdoors.

Originally posted December 20, 2020. Updated and re-posted January 21, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Jasper National Park

by Alan K. Lee

In August 2019, on a long road trip from our home near Portland, Oregon, my wife and I travelled to both Banff and Jasper in the Canadian Rockies. We had been to Banff before, but had never visited Jasper National Park.

We spent a few days exploring Canmore, just outside of Banff National Park, and the town of Banff, then visited Moraine Lake, Johnston Canyon, and Lake Louise before heading north into Jasper National Park on the Icefields Parkway. (Click here to read about our time in Banff).

The Icefields Parkway parallels the Continental Divide from just north of Lake Louise to the town of Jasper. It is without question one of the most scenic drives I’ve ever taken. Jagged peaks, glaciers, pristine lakes, spectacular waterfalls – it has it all.

From the beginning of the Icefield Parkway, just north of Lake Louise, the country felt wilder, more remote, and more removed from civilization. While Banff and Lake Louise seem relatively civilized because of the facilities, and the crowds, Jasper National Park is another animal. You won’t completely leave the crowds behind, of course, but you don’t have to venture very far off the road to find places with little or no trace of civilization.

Although it is only 143 miles (230 km) long and can be driven in less than three hours, you’ll want to spend a full day or more exploring the many scenic viewpoints, hiking trails, lakes, rivers, glaciers, waterfalls, and wildlife viewing opportunities that the Parkway offers.

We didn’t have enough time to stop at every viewpoint along the parkway, much less do any serious hiking or exploring. (If we go back, we’ll budget our time more wisely because there is so much that we missed on this trip). Our first stop after leaving Banff and entering Jasper came at the Icefield Centre, where the Athabasca Glacier drops down from the Columbia Icefield that straddles the Continental Divide.

From the Icefield Centre, visitors can take tour busses up to the Athabasca Glacier, then onto the glacier itself in special sno-coaches equipped to deal with the unique terrain presented by the surface of the glacier. You can also take a guided hiking tour onto the surface of the glacier.

We opted instead to hike to the terminal moraine of the glacier, where we could get a good view of the entire glacier as it descends from the massive Columbia Icefield. We then drove to nearby Sunwapta Lake, fed by runoff from the glacier. The whole area is beautiful, a bit unworldly, and truly magnificent.

From the Icefield Centre, the parkway follows the Sunwapta River north. We stopped for a short time at Tangle Falls, a beautiful series of small falls, which is immediately adjacent to the highway, no hiking required.

Then it was on to Sunwapta Falls. A short walk of a few hundred feet brings you to the top of the falls, where the Sunwapta River drops into a narrow canyon. The Sunwapta is a sizable tributary of the Athabasca River and the volume of water funneling into such a narrow passage is very impressive to see, and hear. The best view is from a pedestrian bridge that crosses the riverjust below the main falls. There is also a much less traveled 1¼ mile trail to Lower Sunwapta Falls, where the gorge empties out into the broad Athabasca Valley.

Our next stop was Athabasca Falls. Here Hwy 93A splits off from the Icefields Parkway. Like at Sunwapta Falls, the river here also drops into a narrow gorge, and a pedestrian bridge above the gorge gives a fantastic view of the falls. Before we left on our trip I saw a video of a black bear crossing that same bridge, full of tourists. Some of the people froze in place and some ran for their lives. The bear passed within inches of some of the people, paying them no mind, and went on its way.

If Sunwapta Falls was impressive, and it was, the Athabasca River here is bigger, the volume of water is greater, and the noise of the falls is deafening. Awesome is the only word for it. Athabasca Falls is world famous for a reason. Many highly hyped tourist attractions turn out to be less than advertised, but Athabasca Falls is not one of them.

After leaving Athabasca Falls, we continued north on Hwy 93A instead of returning to the Icefields Parkway and followed it about ten miles north to the junction of the road leading to the Mount Edith Cavell Day Use Area. The road up has a half dozen very sharp switchbacks, and trailers and RVs over 25′ are not allowed. (There is a parking area at the base of the road where you can leave your trailer, if you want to unhitch.) The road is paved, though, and fine for passenger vehicles and smaller RVs. The day use area is at the end of the road, directly below the summit of Mount Edith Cavell.

Meltwater from the Cavell Glacier, Mount Edith Cavell

The mountain is named for a British nurse who helped hundreds of British, French, and Belgian soldiers escape German-occupied Belgium in World War I. She was arrested, tried, and executed by the Germans in 1915.

From the day use area, a short but steep trail leads to a viewpoint that looks down to Cavell Pond and up nearly 5000 vertical feet to the 11,047′ summit. The lake was still partially ice covered when we were there in the middle of August.

The Icefields Parkway ends at the town of Jasper, a smaller, less crowded, and lower key version of Banff. There are abundant restaurants, pubs, galleries, and shops there, but accommodations are limited, and hotels and motels are expensive. Book your stay well in advance. We opted for staying in a travel trailer at an RV park 30 miles (48 km) from Jasper, just outside the park boundary, because that was the only thing available through Airbnb when we were planning our trip. It was a little inconvenient, but in the end it worked fine.

No visit to Jasper National Park should go without a stop at Maligne Canyon, just a few miles northeast of town. Here the Maligne River flows through a narrow slot canyon. In some places the canyon is more than 150 feet deep and only 10 feet wide. It’s an amazingly place, not to be missed.

To get to Maligne Canyon from Jasper, take Hwy 16 toward Edmonton. Just outside of town, turn right onto Maligne Lake Road and cross the Athabasca River. A few miles down the road you will first come to Maligne Canyon Viewpoint, then the Maligne Canyon Trailhead parking area.

From the trailhead parking area, look to the southeast and you’ll see, strangely enough, a restaurant (Maligne Canyon Wilderness Kitchen). The trail begins there. A short ways down the trail you will come to First Bridge. It spans the canyon immediately downstream of an impressive waterfall.

There are a total of five foot bridges that cross the Maligne River. The first four all give incredible views down into the canyon. The trail along the rim of the canyon also offers numerous viewpoints. Words simply cannot describe this place.

Because it is so spectacularly beautiful, Maligne Canyon can also be spectacularly crowded. Come early in the day (before 9:00) if possible to beat the tour bus crowd. The crowds thin out, though, below Second Bridge. Below Fourth Bridge the canyon opens up and becomes less spectacular, but still scenic. One way of avoiding some of the crowds, though a longer hike, is to start at the lower trailhead at Fifth Bridge and hike up the canyon.

After spending most of the morning at Maligne Canyon, we drove the 25 miles south to Maligne Lake. There we did a short hike along the east shore of the lake. The north end of the lake is less scenic than the fjord-like southern end, but there are no roads beyond the north end of the lake. Tour boats take visitors part way down the lake, but we weren’t there at the right time of day to get good photos, so we opted to skip the boat ride this time, one of the many things we left for our next visit to Jasper.

If you’re contemplating a visit to Jasper National Park, plan to spend at least five days. And you could easily spend longer. There’s a lot to see, as Jasper is a big place, larger than Yellowstone National Park. The two and a half days we had were not close to enough. If you want to see the Canadian Rockies and time is a constraint, my advice would be to skip Banff and focus on Jasper. Banff has it’s attractions, but Jasper is much less crowded and even more scenic. The Icefields Parkway website is a good starting point for planning your trip. Another good reference is the Jasper National Park website.

Originally posted September 19, 2019 as The Icefields Parkway. Edited, updated, and re-posted December 26, 2022.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Banff National Park

by Alan K. Lee

Banff National Park in the Canadian Rockies is flat out gorgeous, one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. My wife and I made our first visit a couple of decades ago and loved it. But it took us twenty years to get back. We finally made it back to Banff in August 2019 as part of a long road trip from our home in the Portland, Oregon area.

It was a long drive. It’s more than 700 miles from Portland to Banff by the shortest route, even farther by the route we took. We took our time, though, and stopped in a number of places in southern British Columbia on the way. (Banff is a long ways from pretty much everywhere. If you don’t want to make the long drive, another option is to fly to Calgary and rent a car. Banff is less than a two hour drive west of Calgary.)

Besides being incredibly scenic, Banff is also significant in that it is part of one of the largest protected areas in North America. The park borders three other Canadian national parks, Kootenay, Yoho, and Jasper. The four national parks in turn border more than half a dozen provincial parks and protected areas. Altogether, the contiguous protected area totals more than 12,000 square miles (31,500 square kilometers). That’s almost four times the size of Yellowstone National Park, for comparison.

Historic North West Mounted Police Barracks, Canmore

On our 2019 trip, we rented a house in Canmore, just outside the park, since it was more affordable than staying in the park itself. Canmore turned out to be a pretty interesting place in its own right. It has a compact and very walkable downtown area with plenty of cafes and restaurants, brew pubs (try Canmore Brewing), interesting art galleries (don’t miss the Jeff Walker Gallery), and some interesting historical sites. There’s also a nice walking trail along Policeman’s Creek. And Canmore is only about a five minute drive from the southern entrance to Banff National Park.

The town of Banff, although crowded and touristy, is charming enough to warrant at least a few hours of your time. The Banff Springs Hotel is also worth a visit, even if you’re not staying there. If you’re a hiker, try the Tunnel Mountain Trail. We didn’t hike all the way to the top, but still got some great views of the town and the surrounding mountains, and a good workout.

One of the best hikes you’ll find anywhere is the Johnston Canyon Trail, about 15 miles north of the town of Banff. Here Johnston Creek cascades through a narrow gorge with many small waterfalls and two larger ones.

Another must see destination in Banff National Park is Moraine Lake. The turquoise blue water and soaring peaks surrounding the lake make it one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. It’s an easy walk up to a stunning viewpoint from the parking lot, and there is a trail along the shoreline that gives you more incredible views of this beautiful lake and the high peaks above it. You can also rent a canoe there and get out on the water for more spectacular views. And again, go early. Parking at the lake is limited and traffic on the road to the lake may be restricted if the parking lot is full.

You can avoid the parking hassles and the crowds, at least in the morning or evening, by booking a room at the Moraine Lake Lodge. It’s expensive, but if you can afford it, it might be worth it.

Lake Louise is justifiably famous, but fame brings people. Lots of people. There’s a lot more parking here than at Moraine Lake, but even though we were there early, we still had to park in one of the lower lots and walk up to the lake. And honestly, Moraine Lake is even prettier and less crowded. But if you’ve never been there, seeing Lake Louise is worth fighting the crowds. Rent a canoe and get out on the water, or take a hike along the shore to get away from the crowds. And, like the Banff Springs Hotel, Chateau Lake Louise is a destination in itself.

The portion of Banff National Park north of Lake Louise has a lot of attractions that many visitors never see. This part of the park was new to me. On our first trip we were among the many that didn’t venture north of Lake Louise. On this trip we did, though. Our journey took us on into Jasper National Park on the Icefields Parkway.

Drive a few miles north from Lake Louise on the Trans Canada Highway, turn onto the Icefields Parkway, and you’re in a different world. The crowds thin out and the country becomes wilder, more open, and more removed from civilization.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to really explore that part of the park. We made a quick stop at Hector Lake viewpoint, only a few miles from Lake Louise, and stopped for a little longer at Bow Lake before motoring on into Jasper National Park. (Click here to go to our post on Jasper.)

There’s much more to Banff than I have described here, of course. It’s a big park, and you could easily spend a couple of weeks there without running out of things to do, longer if you also visit some of the surrounding parks. But it’s worth the effort to get there at least once in your life, even if you can only spend a few days there.

“B’Air of Importance” by Shannon Ford, Banff Springs Hotel

Originally posted December 26, 2022. Most recently updated July 31, 2024.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Clear Lake

By Alan K. Lee

Clear Lake, in the central Oregon Cascades, is the source of the McKenzie River, and as its name suggests, it’s one of the clearest lakes you’ll find in the Cascade Range (or anywhere, for that matter). It’s also one of the cleanest, coldest, and most beautiful lakes in the Cascades.

Clear Lake is very young geologically, having been formed only about 3000 years ago when a lava flow from nearby Sand Mountain dammed the McKenzie River. One of the remarkable features of Clear Lake is the Underwater Forest, remnants of the forest that stood on the shore of the McKenzie prior to the eruption. The clean and very cold water of the lake preserved the trees, and some of them still stand upright on the lake bottom.

Clear Lake offers the outdoor enthusiast a number recreational options, including hiking, fishing, paddling, or just taking in the views and soaking up the beauty and peacefulness of nature.

My wife and I have taken short vacations at Clear Lake a couple of times in the past couple of years, most recently in August 2024. Both times, we stayed in one of the cabins at Clear Lake Resort on the northwest shore of the lake. Coldwater Cove Campground, on the southeast shore of the lake, is another option. The campground has 34 campsites, drinking water, and vault toilets, but no RV hookups. There are many other campgrounds and a few other resorts within a short drive of Clear Lake, as well. And the lake is also close enough to all of the communities in the Willamette Valley and Central Oregon to make it a day trip destination if you don’t want to spend the night.

Clear Lake Resort is a good option for those, like my wife and I, that prefer the warmth of a heated cabin to an unheated tent or cramped RV. The resort has 14 cabins and one yurt. Six of the cabins have two bedrooms, a full kitchen, and a bathroom. The other cabins and the yurt have power but no indoor plumbing. (There is a heated central rest room with showers at the resort).

The resort also has a small cafe and a day use area with picnic tables, a large fire pit, and a boat ramp. And you can rent row boats or canoes there (motorized craft are prohibited on the lake).

For hikers, the Clear Lake Loop Trail is an easy 5.0 mile hike with almost no elevation gain. You can start the hike from either the resort or Coldwater Cove Campground. Note that the trail along the west side of the lake may be closed periodically to protect bald eagle nesting sites. Call the McKenzie River Ranger Station at 541-822-7254 for more information. (The Ranger District’s website wasn’t much help, and the link to their email didn’t work).

The Clear Lake and upper McKenzie area is one of the most scenic and most interesting parts of the Cascades, and offers a number of other hiking options besides the Clear Lake Loop. The 2.6-mile McKenzie Waterfalls Loop is another easy, family friendly hike that takes you to both Sahalie and Koosah Falls. The 3.9-mile out-and-back Blue Pool hike is another. Like the Clear Lake Loop, both of those also incorporate parts of the 22 mile long McKenzie River National Scenic Trail. And the nearby Santiam Pass and McKenzie Pass areas both give access to the Pacific Crest Trail and more expansive views of Mount Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, Mount Washington, and the Three Sisters.

Clear Lake also offers other recreational options besides hiking. Fishing is a popular activity at Clear Lake, as it is in most Cascade lakes. Brook and cutthroat trout reproduce naturally in the lake and rainbow trout are stocked annually. You’ll usually see at least a few people fishing from row boats on the lake in the morning and evening.

The lake is also a great place to paddle, and canoes and kayaks are a frequent sight on the lake. The clear water allows you to see deep into the lake and you get a perspective that you can’t get from the shore. My wife spent part of our stay exploring the lake in her kayak both times that we’ve there. Some of the photos here were taken by her from her kayak. Boats can be launched at either the day use area at the resort or at the campground’s boat ramp. Summer weekends can be very crowded with day trippers, though, as you can see from the photo above.

If you’re a scuba diver, the clear water and submerged forest make Clear Lake a great place to dive, even though the water is extremely cold (38° year round). Check the Scuba Bubbles website for more information about diving in Clear Lake.

From the Portland area, Clear Lake is about a 130 mile drive. Take I-5 south to Salem, then Ore Hwy 22 east past Detroit Lake to the junction with US Hwy 20. Go west on Hwy 20 for three miles to the junction with Ore Hwy 126. Clear Lake is a few miles south of the junction. From the Eugene area it’s a 75 mile drive on Hwy 126 to the lake. From Bend, the lake is a 50 mile drive west on Hwy 20, or about 65 miles via the very scenic McKenzie Pass Hwy (Ore 242).

You can take in Clear Lake and do the Waterfall Loop in a weekend. Make it a long weekend and add the Blue Pool hike or spend a day out on the lake. Better yet, make a week of it and check out Fish Lake, the Santiam Pass and McKenzie Pass areas, and the lower McKenzie River. You won’t run out of things to do.

Originally posted November 29, 2022. Updated September 6, 2024.

All photos ©Alan K. Lee, except as noted.

Lake Crescent and Vicinity

by Alan K. Lee

Lake Crescent, the nearby the Sol Duc Valley, and Hurricane Ridge are three of the prime attractions of Olympic National Park. My wife and I had the pleasure of visiting Lake Crescent and vicinity on an “escape from the pandemic” tour of the Olympic Peninsula in September 2020.

After spending three days in the magnificent Quinault Rain Forest, we made stops at Ruby Beach and Rialto Beach before heading on to Lake Crescent.

After checking in at Lake Crescent Lodge, we did a short but scenic and relaxing loop hike along the lake shore and through the forest east of the lodge. Lake Crescent lies in a glacier carved valley in the northern portion of Olympic National Park. The lake’s depth (nearly 600 feet) and clarity give the lake a brilliant deep blue color. Lake Crescent and nearby Lake Sutherland were once a single body of water, but a huge landslide about 7000 years ago divided the original lake into the separate lakes found today.

Lake Crescent Lodge, like Lake Quinault Lodge where we stayed on the first part of our trip, is one of the iconic grand lodges of the American West. Built in 1915, Lake Crescent Lodge is perhaps a little less grand than the other grand lodges, but it is no less significant in terms of its history and its romantic appeal. The main lodge is smaller than Lake Quinault Lodge, and the lodge rooms do not have private bathrooms. But there are many individual one and two bedroom cabins on the lake shore – the Singer Tavern Cottages and the Roosevelt Fireplace Cabins – that Lake Quinault and the other comparable lodges lack. More modern additions – the Storm King Rooms, Marymere Rooms, and Pyramid Mountain Rooms – are tucked into the woods a ways back from the shore. Our Storm King Room still had a view of the lake, though, and a nice balcony. All of the cabins and modern additions have private bathrooms.

As at Lake Quinault Lodge, the restaurant at Lake Crescent Lodge served only take out meals when we were there because of the corona virus pandemic. The lodge dining room was open for seating, however, so after our hike that first afternoon we claimed a window table looking out over the lake. Our meals were both very good, but Joan’s salmon “catch of the day” was a small (maybe 4 oz.) portion, and probably not worth the $28 price tag. My fish and chips were cheaper and more substantial, but we chose to drive to nearby Port Angeles for dinner the next two nights.

The next morning we hiked from the lodge to Marymere Falls, a picturesque 90 foot waterfall on Falls Creek. The trail is an easy 1.5 mile hike through old growth forest with minimal elevation gain to the lower viewpoint. From there the trail climbs steeply to an upper viewpoint. Both viewpoints offer unobstructed views of the falls.

My wife took her kayak out for a paddle on the lake that afternoon while I relaxed on our room’s balcony with a good book (Graham Greene’s Travels With My Aunt).

That evening we drove into Port Angeles, about 20 miles to the east, and dined at Next Door Gastropub. They have a good selection of beers and the Cuban pork sandwich that I had was quite good. After dinner we wandered around a bit, searching out some of the many public artworks scattered around the downtown area, before returning to Lake Crescent.

The following morning, we drove to the Sol Duc Valley west of Lake Crescent and hiked to Sol Duc Falls. Originally called “Sole Duck,” the spelling was officially changed to Sol Duc in 1922 to more accurately reflect its derivation from a Quileute language word meaning sparkling waters. The family friendly trail (less than a mile long) takes you through a dense forest with minimal elevation gain to the 48 foot falls. There the Sol Duc River breaks into a number of channels before making a sideways drop into a deeper gorge. There are many bigger and more spectacular waterfalls in Olympic National Park, but certainly none more scenic.

The nearby Sol Duc Hot Springs was once the site of a five star hotel. Built in 1912, the hotel lasted only four years, though, before burning down in 1916. The resort was rebuilt on a less grand scale in the 1920s and operated for a half century before closing in the 1970s. After being vacant for a number of years, it was renovated and reopened in the 1980s. Today the resort includes a restaurant and a variety of cabins with private bathrooms and modern amenities. Those staying at the resort have free access to a swimming pool, soaking pools, and hot tubs, all heated by water from the hot springs. People not staying at the resort can also enjoy the hot springs for a small fee.

A 17 unit RV campground that will accommodate RVs up to 36 feet is located a quarter mile from the resort. The RV campground sites have water and electric hookups, and there is a sewer dump station. A separate 82 unit “dry” campground is located nearby. The campground has restrooms, but no showers. The camp sites will accommodate small RVs, but do not have water or electric hookups.

After our hike to Sol Duc Falls we drove to the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center to do some more hiking and sightseeing. The visitor center is located 17 miles south of Port Angeles at an elevation of 5242 feet above sea level. Hurricane Ridge is the only alpine area in Olympic National Park accessible by car, which makes it very popular and means it can be very crowded, especially on summer weekends. We were there in the middle of the week in late September, though, so crowds weren’t much of an issue.

The Hurricane Ridge Road is paved, but winding with poor sight lines and several tunnels. It is also a popular challenge for cyclists because of the elevation gain, so go slow and watch for bicycles on the road.

The visitor center’s gift shop and restrooms were open, but the main part of the center was closed due to the corona virus pandemic. The rangers were manning an information desk outside on the sidewalk, though, where they were giving out maps and answering questions.

Several short loop and out and back hikes ranging from a half mile to a mile and a half take you from the visitor center to viewpoints with great views in all directions. Look for wildlife when you’re there. We’ve seen mountain goats there in the past, and on this visit a doe was grazing only a few feet off one of the trails, almost within arms reach. Past the visitor center, at the end of the road, you’ll find the trailhead for a longer 3.2 mile round trip hike to Hurricane Hill with even more spectacular panoramic views.

The following morning we somewhat reluctantly checked out of the lodge. Our six days in the Olympics were a much needed getaway from both the pandemic and the wildfires that had threatened many of the populated areas of western Oregon. We in the Pacific Northwest are lucky to have such a magnificent place so close at hand. Olympic National Park is a jewel worth visiting, no matter how far you have to come to experience it.

From Crescent Lake, we headed on to Port Townsend for the final part of our trip. Look for an upcoming post on Port Townsend, one of my favorite places in the Northwest, and home of the annual Wooden Boat Festival.

Originally posted November 7, 2020. Updated and re-posted November 9, 2022.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Snoqualmie Valley

by Alan K. Lee

The beautiful Snoqualmie Valley runs from just east of Seattle, Washington southeast to Snoqualmie Pass at the crest of the Cascade Mountains. The valley’s proximity to Seattle and its eastern and southern suburbs makes the Snoqualmie Valley quite literally Seattle’s backyard. We’ll touch on some of the many recreational opportunities in the Snoqualmie Valley and in the Snoqualmie Pass area, but we’ll focus first on the two areas we visited on our most recent visit, Twin Falls on the South Fork of the Snoqualmie, and Snoqualmie Falls on the main stem.

Snoqualmie River

The middle and south forks of the Snoqualmie River arise near Snoqualmie Pass, which is only about 45 miles as the crow flies from downtown Seattle. The middle, south, and north forks of the river all come together to form the main stem of the Snoqualmie River just above the magnificent Snoqualmie Falls.

To say that the river is a very popular destination for people looking to escape the city is a bit of an understatement. On summer weekends it can seem like half the population of the metro area can be found along its banks or in the surrounding mountains. But there are dozens, probably hundreds, of hiking trails and other attractions, so the crowds disperse to some extent. But we were last there on the Fourth of July, and Snoqualmie Falls was a madhouse that day. Nevertheless, my wife and I still enjoyed our time there, and we had done a hike earlier in the day that was much less crowded. More on that below.

Snoqualmie Falls

Less than an hour’s drive from most of the Seattle metropolitan area, Snoqualmie Falls gets a lot of tourist traffic. More than 1.5 million people visit the falls annually. Most of the visitors are day trippers, but Salish Lodge sits on the north bank of the river at the top of the falls, so there are still many people in the area mornings and evenings. You’re not going to find solitude here.

The falls have been used to generate electricity since the turn of the 20th century. The first power plant was built in 1899. Power Plant #1 is largely inconspicuous because it is entirely underground, the first underground power plant built in the country. Power Plant #2, built in 1910 on the north bank of the river just downstream of the falls, is much more conspicuous, with three large pipelines running above ground down the slope to the plant.

So, this is not prime wilderness. But with a 268 foot vertical drop, Snoqualmie Falls is more than twice the height of Niagara Falls. And fed by the abundant winter and spring rains and the spring and summer snow melt from the Cascade Mountains, the volume of water flowing over the falls can be an awesome sight.

The Fourth of July might be the worst possible time to visit the falls. It took us some time just to find a parking place, and the viewing areas at the top of the falls were elbow to elbow. After waiting our turn to get photos at several view points, we hiked down to the base of the falls. There were fewer people at the bottom than the top, but it wasn’t uncrowded by any means. My advice would be to go on a weekday, if possible, come early in the day if you can only come on a weekend, and avoid holiday weekends completely. But despite the crowds (and the heat), we enjoyed our stop.

The falls are just a few miles off of Interstate 90, near the town of Snoqualmie. Take Exit 25 and follow Snoqualmie Parkway to the falls.

Twin Falls

Earlier in the day, we hiked to Twin Falls on the South Fork of the Snoqualmie River. This is a relatively easy, family friendly hike. The Washington Trails Association rates the hike Easy/Moderate. We had two of our grandkids with us (age four and six), and both made the 2.6-mile round trip without much difficulty. Twin Falls is a little less than ten miles east of Snoqualmie Falls. For a more complete description of the hike with more photos, click here.

There are many other hikes in the Snoqualmie Valley that offer a variety of difficulty levels for all types of hikers. According to the Washington Trails Association, the Mount Si Trail is the most popular hike in the state. It’s not a trail for everyone, though. The eight-mile round trip gains a staggering 3150 feet in elevation. The WTA rates it Hard. No kidding. But, despite the difficulty, upwards of 100,000 people make the trek every year.

The Snow Lake Trail on Snoqualmie Pass offers a slightly shorter and easier hike (7.2 miles round trip with 1800 feet of elevation gain, rated Moderate/Hard). I was captivated by the photo above that I saw many years ago on the internet. Snow Lake is incredibly beautiful, as you can see.

For those of you with young children (or grandchildren) in tow, there are many kid-friendly trails in the Snoqualmie region in addition to Twin Falls, including Franklin Falls, Lodge Lake, Oxbow Loop, Mirror and Cottonwood Lakes, and many others. Check the WTA website for more family friendly hiking options.

As well as hiking, the Snoqualmie Valley offers many other outdoor activities, from mountain biking, fishing, boating, and camping in the summer to cross country and alpine skiing, snow shoeing, and snowmobiling in the winter.

And if outdoor activities aren’t your thing, there are still options for you. For a luxury hotel experience, you can’t beat the Salish Lodge at Snoqualmie Falls. The nearby town of North Bend has some nice restaurants and an interesting history. Fans of the David Lynch TV series, Twin Peaks, may recognize parts of the town. The series was partially filmed in North Bend.

If you’re interested in sightseeing, but don’t want to (or aren’t able to) hike, the Summit at Snoqualmie ski area operates several chair lifts in the summer that will take you up to scenic viewpoints. Adult tickets are $20, and senior and youth tickets are $15. There are also a variety of bars and restaurants at the resort.

If you’re visiting the Seattle area, you’ll surely want to take in the Seattle Center and the Space Needle, but also take the short drive up the Snoqualmie Valley to get a taste of the outdoor experience that Seattleites value so much.

Posted August 29, 2022

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Quinault Rain Forest

Rainfall in the Quinault Rain Forest is measured in feet, not inches. Average annual rainfall is about 12 feet. Some years see 15 feet. All that rain combined with a mild climate results in a lot of vegetation. Ferns cover the ground. Moss hangs from tree limbs. There are trees everywhere. And the trees are big. The largest Sitka Spruce in the world grows on the shore of Lake Quinault. The world’s largest Douglas Fir, Western Red Cedar, and Mountain Hemlock are all found in the Quinault Valley. And the Quinault Rain Forest is also home to the largest Yellow Cedar and Western Hemlock trees in the United States.

The Quinault Rain Forest lies in the southwestern corner of Olympic National Park, the adjacent Olympic National Forest, and the Quinault Indian Reservation in western Washington. It’s less than a four hour drive from either Portland or Seattle, but it seems a world apart, and more than a little stuck in time. It looks much as I remember it from when I first visited as a child more than a half century ago. Cell phone service and wi-fi availability are spotty. There are no big resorts and no towns of any size. Urban America is nowhere to be found.

The pandemic has kept all of us from traveling as much as maybe we’d like. That certainly applies to my wife and I. Most of our vacation plans for 2020 had to be cancelled. And just when the parks and recreation areas were beginning to reopen, wildfires in western Oregon and Washington shut them down again. But the Olympic Peninsula was largely unaffected by the fires. So, my wife and I decided that the Olympics would be an ideal, and much needed, escape from Portland, and in September 2020 we headed to the Olympic Peninsula. Our first stop was Lake Quinault.

We treated ourselves to a stay at the historic Lake Quinault Lodge, one of the iconic grand lodges of the American West. The original Lake Quinault Lodge was built in 1904. The Boathouse annex was built in 1923. The original lodge burned down in 1924 and the current main lodge was constructed in 1926 on the site of the older lodge. Two additional annexes have been added since then. The existing lodge was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1998.

Rooms at the lodge are a little pricey, but you’re paying for the history, charm, and iconic nature of the lodge more than for the amenities provided. There are no TVs in any of the main lodge rooms, no fridges, or microwaves, no phones and no cell phone service. But that’s all part of the charm. The Boathouse and the other two annexes offer a few more amenities. Some come with fireplaces, the Lakeside Rooms are billed as family friendly, and the Boathouse Rooms are pet friendly. Our room in the main lodge came with all we needed, a comfortable bed and a view of the lake.

Services at the lodge were limited by the pandemic during our stay. The swimming pool, sauna, and game room were closed. The restaurant served take out meals, but the dining room was closed (outside seating was available and you could eat in the main hall or in your room). However, all services have been restored to pre-pandemic levels.

Some people undoubtedly come to Lake Quinault Lodge just to relax and enjoy the lodge and the setting, which I fully understand. On our second day there my wife launched her folding kayak from the beach in front of the lodge and spent an afternoon paddling Lake Quinault. Canoe rentals are available at the lodge if you don’t bring your own. I spent that afternoon relaxing in an Adirondack chair on the beach with a good book.

A somewhat cheaper alternative to Lake Quinault Lodge is the nearby Rain Forest Resort, which has a 16 room lodge, cabins (some with hot tubs), an RV park, and a restaurant. The world’s largest Sitka Spruce grows a short walk from the resort. Other options are the Quinault River Inn on Hwy 101 in Amanda Park, and Lochaerie Resort on North Shore Road. And there are three campgrounds on the south shore of Lake Quinault, and two (one a walk-in) on the north shore.

Lake Quinault Lodge, the Rain Forest Resort, or any of the three south shore campgrounds make an ideal base for exploring the area. Hikers have a variety of options, from the half mile Rain Forest Nature Trail Loop to a loop of about seven miles that takes you to Gatton Creek Falls, Cascade Falls, the Cedar Bog, the Rain Forest Nature Trail, and along the lake shore. Cutoff trails make shorter loops of various distances possible. Other hiking trails are a short drive from the lodge.

Two stops along South Shore Road worth making are Merriman Falls and Bunch Falls. Both are just east of Lake Quinault and both are right by the road, so no hiking required.

One hike that everyone should do is the Maple Glade Trail at the Quinault River Ranger Station on North Shore Road. It is spectacularly beautiful, and like the Rain Forest Nature Trail, it’s an easy 0.5 mile loop. But, unlike the Rain Forest Nature Trail, which takes you through a coniferous forest of Douglas Fir, Western Hemlock, and Western Red Cedar, the Maple Glade Trail immerses you in a Bigleaf Maple forest. There the ground is covered in ferns and other low growing shrubs and the maples soar overhead, but in between is mostly open and airy. The effect is like being in a gigantic room carpeted with ferns and roofed with a canopy of maple leaves.

The Maple Glade Trail can be extended by taking the connecting trail to the Kestner Homestead. There you’ll find the Kestner house, barn, outbuildings, and a cool old rusted delivery truck.

There are also much longer hikes that can be taken into the Olympic National Park from the Quinault Valley. The most famous, and probably most hiked, is the Enchanted Valley Trail. It’s a 13 mile hike along the East Fork of the Quinault River to reach the Enchanted Valley, so it is not a casual outing. Most people do it as a 3-5 day backpacking trip. My backpacking days are behind me, but the Enchanted Valley is one of the hikes that I regret having never done.

Those of us that live in western Oregon and Washington can be a bit blasé about the rain forest. We live in the middle of one, after all. But we shouldn’t take it for granted. The Quinault Rain Forest is a beautiful and spectacular reminder of what once stretched uninterrupted from the Redwoods of Northern California to the vast forests of southeast Alaska. If you have never experienced the grandeur of the coastal rain forest of the Pacific Northwest, you owe it to yourself to visit at least once. I don’t think you’ll regret it.

Originally posted October 26, 2020. Updated and re-posted August 11, 2022.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Silver Falls State Park

By Alan K. Lee

Silver Falls State Park was voted Oregon’s favorite state park by an Oregonian/OregonLive readers poll. And no wonder. With more than ten waterfalls, six of them more than 90 feet in height, and four that you can actually walk behind, Silver Falls is a waterfall lovers paradise. And who doesn’t love waterfalls?

Silver Falls State Park is located in the Cascade Range foothills about 20 miles east of Salem. To get there from the Portland area, head south on I-5 to Woodburn and take Oregon Highway 214 through Woodburn, Mount Angel, and Silverton to the park. From Salem, take Oregon Highway 22 east for about 12 miles and follow the signs to the park. Day use parking permits cost $10 and can be purchased at the North Falls, South Falls, and North Canyon parking areas. Twelve month passes cost $30 and 24-month passes $50, available on the park website. Beginning in January 2026, 12-month parking passes will increase from $30 to $60 and 24-month passes will no longer be sold.

The park was created largely through the efforts of one man, photographer June Drake. He grew up in nearby Silverton and waged a twenty year campaign, from 1906 to 1926, to get the federal government to declare the area a national park. When that ultimately failed, he convinced the Silverton and Salem Chambers of Commerce to buy options on some of the land, to be later sold to the state, and purchased 160 acres himself that also became part of the park. Silver Falls State Park was created in 1931 and was dedicated on July 23, 1933.

The park as we know it today was shaped by the efforts of the Works Progress Administration (WPA) and the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) during the Great Depression. From 1935 to 1942, 200 WPA and CCC workers built roads, parking areas, trails, bridges, and buildings, and planted trees to reforest areas that had been logged or burned. Many of the buildings, including the South Falls Lodge and Nature Store, are still in use today, more than 80 years after they were built.

The park includes a campground with 91 campsites (48 with water and electric hookups) and 14 cabins, an extensive day use area, including a cafe and nature store, near South Falls, a new day use area near North Falls, equestrian trails, bike trails, the Trail of Ten Falls that takes you to all of the falls, and 35 miles of backcountry trails.

Smith Creek Village, near the backcountry portion of the park, has a restaurant, small cottages and cabins for rent, larger multi-bedroom lodges with kitchenettes and full bathrooms, and event spaces that will sleep up to 75 guests.

The newly opened North Canyon day use area is part of a planned North Gateway that will include a visitor center and a new 50 unit campground. Construction of the campground and the finish of the partially completed visitor center were put on hold in November 2025 until additional funding is secured.

The waterfalls are the main attraction of the park, of course, and the Trail of Ten Falls is one of the finest hiking trails in the Pacific Northwest. I don’t know of anywhere else that you can see that many waterfalls, and actually get behind four of them, on a single hike. Silver Falls State Park is truly unique.

There are a variety of hiking options in the park, from a less than one mile loop that takes you from the top of South Falls down into the canyon and behind the falls then back to the starting point, to the full Trail of Ten Falls that takes you to all of the falls to the 35 miles of backcountry trails away from the waterfalls. And the backcountry offers both mountain biking and horseback riding trails.

For a detailed description of the Trail of Ten Falls, click here. And some of the shorter loop hikes are described in my Winter Hikes at Silver Falls post. There is also a new trail from the North Canyon day use area to the North Falls parking area.

The best times to visit Silver Falls are in the early spring when the falls are at their full force and in the fall when the reds and yellows of the maples and alders contrast with the deep greens of the conifers. Summer weekends can be very crowded, so come early or visit on a weekday if you can. But even on weekdays you will find plenty of company. Winter has its own charms, and you might even find some solitude then. The trails can be slippery when wet and are dangerous when icy, so check the weather forecast before you go.

Whether you’re out for a picnic, a short walk, a long hike, an overnight stay in a cabin, tent, or RV, a horseback ride, or an outing on your mountain bike, Silver Falls State Park has it all.

Silver Falls State Park is one of the truly outstanding places in the Pacific Northwest to lace up your hiking boots and experience nature at it finest. Silver Falls is one of the gems of the Pacific Northwest, and not to be missed.

Originally posted June 30, 2018. Most recently updated November 13, 2025.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Powells Wood Garden

by Alan K. Lee

My wife and I recently paid a visit to Powells Wood Garden in Federal Way, Washington, just north of Tacoma. We had seen a set of photos taken at Powells Wood that were quite beautiful, so we decided to take a side trip on our recent weekend visit to Gig Harbor and check it out in person.

What we found was a beautiful three acre botanical garden containing eight “rooms” separated by manicured hedges, and an adjacent 35 acre natural area preserve. We spent several very pleasant hours exploring the botanical garden and the nature preserve. It was a nice way to unwind after the drive up from Portland.

The botanical garden is small, but it’s a nicely constructed set of gardens and a place that any flower lover will enjoy.

The adjacent natural area is a maturing second growth forest with many large conifers, a small stream, and the typical temperate rainforest understory of native shrubs and ferns. Several trails loop through the preserve. We hiked most of the trails that afternoon and saw only a few other people.

Powells Wood Garden is located at 430 S. Dash Point Road in Federal Way. The garden is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 3pm. Admission is $7 per person (children 12 and under are free). Tickets can be purchased online on the Garden’s website . Reservations are not required and tickets can also be purchased on site.

If you visit Powells Wood Garden, you might also want to stop in at Dash Point State Park, a few miles west of Powells Wood. The main attraction at Dash Point is the 3000 feet of Puget Sound shoreline. But there are also miles of hiking and mountain biking trails and a campground with 141 campsites.

While Powells Wood Garden is probably not worth a trip to Tacoma on its own, the Tacoma area has a lot of other attractions, not the least of which are the Museum of Glass and the Tacoma Art Museum, both part of the Tacoma Museum District.

And across the Tacoma Narrows from the city of Tacoma, the charming small town of Gig Harbor is well worth a visit, as well. Gig Harbor has a beautiful waterfront and the community has done a good job of preserving its history as it has grown from a small fishing village into a bedroom community of Tacoma. It’s one of our favorite towns in the Northwest and one we return to often.

If you find yourself in the Tacoma area and you’re interested in flowers, gardens, or natural areas, pay a visit to Powells Wood Garden. It’s definitely worth seeking out.

Posted June 12, 2022

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Tryon Creek State Natural Area

by Alan K. Lee

I visit Tryon Creek State Park in southwest Portland often, as it is only a few miles from my home. I go to connect with nature and escape the noise and hustle and bustle of the city. The park is an urban oasis where it’s easy to forget that you’re in the middle of a major metropolitan area. That is a major draw and the park is a much beloved, and much used, place. But the park is big enough (658 acres) that it seldom feels overly crowded.

Bigleaf maples cover a large part of the park and, as a photographer, I appreciate the extraordinary quality of light under their canopy. The light can change dramatically from season to season, day to day, and sometimes moment to moment. I find the interplay of light and shadow always beautiful, endlessly fascinating, and often challenging to capture with the camera. It is one of the things that continues to draw me back to the park.

The park, now officially called Tryon Creek State Natural Area, is a transitional second growth forest. What is now the park was logged at least once between 1870 and 1960 to provide fuel for the iron smelter that once operated nearby and to produce ties for the railroad industry.

Today, the forest has regrown. While still not a mature old growth forest, the new forest contains many large Douglas firs, western hemlocks, western red cedars, bigleaf and vine maples, and red alders.

Nearly 300 different forest plants and flowers grow in the park. Blacktail deer, raccoons, coyotes, red foxes, beaver, and more than two dozen other mammals roam the park. More than 70 species of birds have been seen in the park. And cutthroat trout, coho and chinook salmon, and steelhead can be found in Tryon Creek.

The area was saved from development in the late 1960s and early 1970s by a combination of dedicated citizens, the Friends of Tryon Creek, Multnomah County, and the State of Oregon. Tryon Creek State Park was officially dedicated on July 1, 1975.

Many, if not most, of the park’s visitors come to hike the nearly fifteen miles of hiking and mixed use trails. Some bring their horses to ride the three and a half miles of equestrian trails. There is also a three mile paved bike path running through the park and a paved all abilities trail. The Nature Center, with a friendly staff, interpretive exhibits, a small store, and public restrooms, is a popular starting point for many visitors.

The park is jointly managed by the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department and the Friends of Tryon Creek. The park’s mission has always included adult and youth environmental education programs, including day camps, a junior ranger program, school field trips, guided tours of the park, and special events. It is not uncommon to encounter large groups of children, and sometimes adults, in the park.

Many of the events and programs sponsored by the park were cancelled or available only online during the majority of the Covid-19 pandemic. The Nature Center was closed and entrance to the park was limited at times. While we’re still living with Covid, most, if not all, of the park’s programs have been restored, and the Nature Center is open again.

The main parking area and the Nature Center are located at 11321 SW Terwilliger Blvd in Portland. The park is currently open from 7:00 am to 9:00 pm. (closing times vary with the season). For more information, check the park’s website or call 1-800-551-6949.

And finally, this reminder from the Friends of Tryon Creek:

“It is important to ground ourselves and acknowledge the people whose land we are utilizing; the Clackamas Chinook, the Wasco-Wishram, the Willamette Tumwater, the Multnomah, and other Chinookan peoples, as well as the Tualatin Kalapuya, the Cayuse, the Molalla and other tribes and bands of the Columbia and Willamette Rivers. It is important to acknowledge the original inhabitants of the land now known as Tryon Creek State Natural Area, and to recognize that we are here because of the sacrifices that were forced upon them. We also remember that we are guests of this land and must do our best to honor the original peoples, through authentic cultural narratives and continued stewardship of the water, the land, and plants that make up this forest community.”

Originally posted July 29, 2020. Updated and re-posted May 25, 2022.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Hoyt Arboretum

by Alan K. Lee

Hoyt Arboretum, in Portland, Oregon, was founded in 1928 to conserve endangered tree species and help educate the community about the value and wonder of trees and the natural environment.

Today, the arboretum features more than 100 collections of trees and plants, organized by taxonomy and geography, spread over 189 acres in Washington Park in Portland’s West Hills. There are more than 2300 species native to six continents represented in the arboretum collections.

The arboretum features a small visitor center, a covered picnic structure, and 12 miles of hiking trails, including a portion of the 30 mile long Wildwood Trail that connects Washington Park to the Pittock Mansion, the Portland Audubon Society sanctuary, and Forest Park, the nation’s largest forested city park. The arboretum also makes a number of outdoor areas available to rent for weddings or other private events.

The visitor center is a good place to begin your visit to the arboretum, especially if it is your first visit. It is open daily from 10:00 to 3:00. You can pick up a free map there, which I have found to be very useful. You can also download a map from the arboretum’s website. The arboretum’s trails are well signed, but there are many intersecting trails and an almost limitless number of possible loops to hike, so having a good map is definitely a plus. The visitor center staff are also friendly and can answer any questions that you may have. The center also includes restrooms and a small gift shop.

Many of the trees and plants throughout the arboretum are labeled and there are interpretive signs describing the featured collections. And, if you want information on specific trees and plants, you can access the arboretum’s online plant directory.

As an educational institution as well as a conservatory, arboretum staff regularly conduct public tours, sponsor educational events, and offer a variety of classes to the public.

Hoyt Arboretum is just one of a number of attractions in Washington Park, making it one of the true centerpieces of what makes Portland such an attractive place to live. Besides the arboretum, Washington Park is also home to the Oregon Zoo, the Portland Japanese Garden, the World Forestry Center, the Oregon Vietnam Veterans Memorial, and the International Rose Test Garden.

More information on the arboretum, directions, and parking and public transit information can be found on the arboretum’s website (linked above).

Hoyt Arboretum is one of my favorite places in the Portland area. Whether you want to learn more about the environment, are interested in the plants and trees in the arboretum’s collections, want to find a quiet and peaceful retreat, or just want to stretch your legs, Hoyt Arboretum is a great place to spend a few hours. Add in the other attractions in Washington Park and you can easily make a day of it.

Originally posted April 8, 2020. Updated July 15, 2020 and May 5, 2022.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Bryce Canyon National Park

by Alan K. Lee

Exploring Bryce Canyon National Park can be an otherworldly experience. Hiking through the eroded limestone hoodoos, you might imagine yourself on another planet – Mars, maybe, or Tatooine. I lack that kind of imagination for the most part, but Bryce Canyon is still a magical place for me. I’ve never seen another place quite like it.

The term “canyon” is a bit of a misnomer here. The park’s main features are the eroded amphitheaters of the slopes of the Paunsaugunt Plateau. The hoodoos were formed through wind erosion and the freeze-thaw cycle, rather than being eroded by running water, so they aren’t true canyons. The park’s namesake canyon is actually just the largest of more than a dozen of those natural amphitheaters. (It’s now called Bryce Amphitheater, not Bryce Canyon, on park maps.)

Before you visit Bryce Canyon, there are a few things that you should know about the park. The first is the altitude. The top of the plateau varies from just under 8000 feet to just over 9000 feet in elevation. The air is noticeably thinner than you’re probably used to. Factor that into any hiking plans that you make.

The altitude also means that nights can be cold there even in the middle of summer. And in spring and fall, it’s not uncommon to encounter cold weather even in the middle of the day. (The photos here were taken in early May and, as you can see, there was still snow in places). Winters are cold, sometimes very, and can be snowy. Many of the trails are closed in winter. But winter also has its charms. Most of the best photos I’ve seen of Bryce Canyon have been taken when the hoodoos were covered in snow.

The second thing you should know is that Bryce Canyon is a very popular place in the summer. The park gets more than two million visitors each year, the vast majority of them between the middle of June and the middle of September. The area around Bryce Canyon Lodge can be very crowded at times, as can the various viewpoints along the 18 mile rim drive.

The good news is that you don’t have to hike very far into the hoodoos to get away from the crowds. There are a number of loop and out-and-back trails that will get you away from the crowds, some of them fairly easy hikes. The rim trail along the edge of the Bryce Amphitheater can also get you away from the worst of the crowds without actually descending into the hoodoos. And if you don’t want to (or can’t) hike into the amphitheaters, there are mule rides available. Check at the visitor center when you arrive. Some of the trails in the park are also paved and wheelchair accessible.

The only road in the park (other than a section of Utah Hwy 12 that cuts across the far northern end of the park) runs north to south along the top of the Paunsaugunt Plateau from the park entrance to Yovimpa Point and Rainbow Point at the southern end of the plateau. Because the park receives so many visitors in the summer, traffic congestion can be a problem. Consider parking your car at the visitor center or the lodge and taking the free shuttle that runs the length of the park. The buses run frequently and you can hop off at any of the viewpoints and catch a later shuttle if you want to do some hiking or just sit and enjoy the scenery for awhile. Taking the shuttle also makes point to point hikes possible without having two cars.

Besides being a spectacularly beautiful place during the day, Bryce Canyon is also great place to star gaze. It’s far from any light polluting urban areas, and the night skies in the park can be incredible. The park offers both astronomy programs and guided full moon hikes. Check the Bryce Canyon National Park website for more information.

The park website is a good place to begin when planning a trip to Bryce. The Utah.com website also has a lot of good info. The Travel Awaits what to know and best places to stay web pages are also full of very useful information.

The Covid-19 pandemic is still with us as I write this (Feb. 2022), but the park is open with only a few restrictions. Masks are still required for everyone, regardless of vaccination status, in all NPS buildings, crowded outdoor spaces, and all forms of enclosed public transportation. But there are no other restrictions and all facilities are open. Additional details are available on the park website and at www.nps.gov/coronavirus.

If you’re not ready to begin traveling again, though, here are links to a short video by National Geographic, a ten minute video by Amazing Places On Your Planet, and an hour and fifteen minute documentary from the 4K Relaxation Channel. There is also a six minute video on the park website.

The videos don’t give you the full experience of actually being there, of course, but they will give you a taste of what the park offers, and maybe help to tide you over until you can safely travel there in person once the pandemic has run its course.

Bryce Canyon is one of southern Utah’s five national parks (the “Big Five” ): Zion, Bryce, Capitol Reef, Arches, and Canyonlands. Throw in the sprawling Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Cedar Breaks National Monument, Kodachrome Basin State Park, Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, Natural Bridges National Monument, and Lake Powell, and you have the makings of a truly epic road trip.

Originally posted March 20, 2020. Updated and re-posted February 19, 2022.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona

by Alan K. Lee

Canyon de Chelly is a strikingly beautiful canyon located on the Navajo Nation in the northeast corner of Arizona. The canyon walls rise vertically from the flat bottom of the canyon as much as 1000 feet to the canyon rim, and everywhere you look there are spectacular rock formations, like the 750 foot spire known as Spider Rock (pictured below).

The name Chelly comes from the Spanish spelling of the Navajo name for canyon, tseyi, which translates literally as “within the rock.” Over time the Spanish pronunciation, “chay-ee”, has evolved into the current pronunciation, “shay”.

Located a couple of miles east of Chinle, Arizona, the monument’s Welcome Center is a good place to start your visit. Pick up a free map of the monument and watch a short film about the monument to orient yourself. The park rangers can answer any questions you have about tours of the canyon, accommodations, the canyon’s history or geology, what plants and animals you’ll find in the park, or any other questions you might have. There is also a gift shop where souvenirs of your visit can be purchased.

Canyon de Chelly is worth a visit just for the spectacular scenery it affords, but it is also an important cultural and historic site. The canyon is one of the longest continuously inhabited places in North America. The Ancestral Puebloans (also known as the Anasazi) first settled in the area some 4,000 years ago. The canyon was later occupied by the Hopi, descendents of the Ancestral Puebloans, and more recently by the Navaho.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument is actually owned by the Navaho Tribal Trust, not the federal government. It is jointly managed by the tribe and the National Park Service. Two main canyons, Canyon de Chelly and Canyon del Muerto, along with several smaller side canyons, make up the majority of the monument’s 83,000 acres.

About forty Navaho families live within the monument, some of whom still farm the canyon floor and raise livestock as their ancestors did. Access to the floor of the canyon is restricted to tours led by tribal guides or NPS rangers, except for the White House Ruin Trail, which descends more than 500 feet from south rim of Canyon de Chelly to the bottom of the canyon and across the floor of the canyon to the ruins.

Unless you take one of the guided trips through the canyon, hiking the White House Ruins Trail is the only way to get a close up view of any of Ancestral Puebloan ruins in the canyon. And walking the same ground that the ancestral people walked thousands of years ago and seeing where and how they lived can bring a profound feeling of connection to those people across all those centuries. It is really well worth the effort if you can make the hike.

(February 2022 update: The White House Overlook and Trail are currently closed because of safety and law enforcement concerns. Check the park website Alerts page for current information.)

Although access to the canyon floor is restricted, the South Rim Drive along Canyon de Chelly and the North Rim Drive along Canyon del Muerto provide a total of ten overlooks into the canyons. Plan to spend at least half a day touring the rim drives. Add another two hours or more if you plan to hike to the White House Ruins. And if you want to tour the canyon floor, there are half and full day jeep, horseback, and hiking options available. A list of tour operators can be found here. There are also free ranger led hikes. Ask at the Welcome Center about availability and schedules.

My wife and I have taken many trips to Arizona over the years. We have been fortunate enough to have visited many of the parks and other natural and culturally significant sites in the state. Canyon de Chelly stands out as one of the best, both scenically and culturally. The photos here are from a trip we took that also included a visit to Chiricahua National Monument. That was a number of years ago, but the memories remain fresh in mind. And once the corona virus pandemic ends and we can all travel safely again, I hope to go back and revisit the canyon.

Pandemic update: As of February 2022, the park is open. Masks are required in all indoor areas and outdoors where social distancing is not possible. There are no other requirements.

Originally posted May 14, 2020. Updated and re-posted February 14, 2022.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Chiricahua National Monument, Arizona

By Alan K. Lee

Chiricahua National Monument in the southeastern corner of Arizona is geological wonderland of rocks – hoodoos, balanced rocks, stacked rocks, rocks of all shapes and sizes.

The Chiricahua Mountains are one of a number of mountain ranges known as “sky islands” that run from the Sierra Madre Occidental in Mexico to the Rocky Mountains. The rock that is the central feature of Chiricahua originated as pyroclastic flows from a massive volcano just south of the monument that erupted about 27 million years ago. It is estimated that amount of material ejected in that eruption was more than 100 times that of the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens.

As with Bryce Canyon, the rock formations of the Chiricahua Mountains are more the result of wind erosion and the freeze-thaw cycle than erosion by running water.

Chiricahua National Monument was created in 1924 to protect the fantastic rhyolitic tuff rock formations. The original monument was a little over 4200 acres in size. Additions in 1938, 1978, and 1984 brought the size of the monument to its current 11,985 acres. Most of the park (10,340 acres) is designated wilderness.

Although the altitude at Chiricahua (from 5100 to 7300 feet) makes it cooler than many parts of Arizona, this is still Arizona after all, and it can get dangerously hot. Triple digit temperatures are possible from May through September. And despite this being part of the Chihuahua Desert, thunderstorms are an almost daily occurrences from early July into early September. Almost half of the monument’s annual rainfall of 19.3″ falls in the months of July and August.

April and May and are the driest months, with daily high temperatures varying from the low 70s to the mid 80s, and spring is probably the best time to visit. The days are also pleasant from mid-September to mid-November, but rain is more common than in the spring. Winters are much cooler, with snowfall and sub-freezing temperatures common from December through March.

Hiking is a popular activity at Chiricahua. There are 17 miles of trails in the park, with hikes of various lengths, from 0.2 to 9.5 miles. Trails range in difficulty from easy saunters to strenuous hikes with elevation gains of up to 1000 feet. Horses are also permitted (with restrictions) on many of the trails. As elsewhere in Arizona, carrying enough water is essential. The park staff recommend hikers carry at least one quart for each hour they plan to be out during the summer months. Sunscreen and a hat are also essential, even in spring and fall.

A free hiker shuttle runs from the visitor center to two of the more popular trailheads. Check in at the visitor center the day before or the morning of your hike to reserve a seat. The shuttle is limited to 14 people and reservations cannot be made on line or by phone.

Bird watching is another popular activity at the monument. More than 170 species have been recorded within the monument boundaries, and the American Bird Conservancy has designated Chiricahua National Monument an Important Bird Area. (And the San Pedro Valley, an internationally known birding hot spot, is only about 75 miles to the west). The monument also is home to 71 species of mammals, 46 species of reptiles, 8 amphibian species, and uncounted numbers of insect species.

People interested in the history of the area should check out the historic Faraway Ranch, just off the main road near the park entrance.

Chiricahua has never been a particularly popular place, owing mostly, I think, to its remote location and relatively small size. Even at the peak of its popularity, in 1993, it saw an average of only 350 visitations per day. In recent years the average has been about 150 per day. This is a place where it’s still possible to find some solitude, and it doesn’t take hours of hiking to find a quiet place to yourself.

There is a 26 unit campground in the park, but no other accommodations. The campground can accommodate RVs up to 29 feet (several reviews suggested that 20 feet is a more realistic max, though). The campground has running water and flush toilets, there are no RV hookups. Wilcox, 35 miles to the northwest, has a number of RV parks with full hookups, and has a variety of other accommodations for those that do not want to camp.

Chiricahua National Monument is not on a lot of people’s bucket lists, but it should be in my humble opinion. The scenery is outstanding, it’s a geologically interesting area, the biological mix of plant and animal species is interesting, and it’s unique. There’s no place else like it. It is well worth the 35 mile detour off of I-10 if you are traveling through the area, and is an end-point destination on its own that is worth considering. Combine a visit to Chiricahua with the many attractions in the Tucson area (only a two hour drive away), Karchner Caverns State Park, the old copper mining town of Bisbee, and the famous wild west town of Tombstone, to make a vacation the whole family will enjoy.

February 2022 update:

The visitor center is open daily from 8:30 to 4:30, but the museum exhibits are closed due to Covid-19. The hiker shuttle service is not operating, also due to Covid-19 protocols. Masks are required in all buildings and outdoor areas where social distancing is not possible. The historic ranch house at Faraway Ranch is closed for renovations. The campground is open. The park has experienced some storm damage and some of the roads may be closed temporarily, but the main road is open.

Originally posted April 28, 2020. Edited, updated, and re-posted February 5, 2022

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Exploring Southwest Idaho, Part 3: The Snake River Canyon and Birds of Prey

by Alan K. Lee

The roughly 100 mile (as the crow flies) stretch of the Snake River, from south of Boise to just west of Twin Falls, is a geologically interesting area, wildlife is abundant, the scenery is outstanding, and there’s plenty there for those interested in the history of the American West, as well. Thousand Springs, Balanced Rock, Bruneau Dunes, and the Snake River Canyon are all beautiful, unique, and well worth visiting.

Snake River Birds of Prey

People from all over the world come to the Morley Nelson Snake River Birds of Prey National Conservation Area to view, photograph, and study the hawks, owls, eagles, and falcons that make the Snake River Canyon home. And Boise is home to the World Center For Birds of Prey, the home base of the Peregrine Fund, a non-profit environmental organization that played a key role in bringing the Peregrine Falcon back from the brink of extinction. The Peregrine Fund now runs raptor recovery and protection programs around the world. The canyon is not just for hardcore birders, though. It is spectacularly beautiful for one thing. And there are cultural and historic attractions as well.

There are two primary access points to the Snake River Canyon in the Birds Of Prey NCA – Swan Falls and Celebration Park. Our first stop was the Dedication Point Overlook on the rim of the canyon above the Swan Falls area. The canyon here is about 600 feet deep, with sheer vertical walls several hundred feet high below the rim. There was a group of photographers there attempting to get photos of raptors. We saw a few hawks soaring overhead, but too high to get decent photos. It’s a scenic spot, though, and we hung around for awhile, before heading down to Swan Falls.

The falls are long gone, flooded by construction of Swan Falls Dam in the early 1900s. Swan Falls was the first hydroelectric project on the Snake River. A fish ladder was constructed, but was largely ineffective, and the dam effectively blocked salmon and steelhead passage. That was a different era, and the fish ladder was never made functional. Newer dams were built both upstream and downstream with no fish ladders at all. Electricity was the point. The fish didn’t matter. But it’s a historically interesting and beautiful area, so it’s worth a visit even if, like me, you’d rather see the dam gone.

A new power generation facility was constructed at Swan Falls Dam in the 1990s. The dam’s original power plant is now open to the public, with some of the century-old generators and other equipment still in place. There are also displays depicting the history of the area, and the construction and operation of the dam. We walked across the dam after visiting the power house museum, then drove down the canyon a ways. The road was too rough for the car, though, and we turned around and drove back up to Dedication Point, and then on to Celebration Park.

Celebration Park is Idaho’s only archaeological park. Petroglyphs dating back as far as 10,000 years can be found there. Visitors can learn about the Native American “lifeways” at the visitor center, try their hand at throwing a spear with an atlatl, and explore the petroglyph area on a self-guided walk. There is a picnic ground, and a small tent campground. The visitor center is open from 10:00 to 2:00 daily, except holidays. Check the park website for more information.

A short ways downstream, the Guffey Railroad Bridge provides pedestrian and equestrian access to the south bank of the Snake River and the Guffey Butte area. The bridge was built in the late 19th century and carried rail traffic until the 1940s. It is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Guided tours of the area highlighting the area’s early mining and railroad history are conducted periodically.

Hikers will find trails on both sides of the river. On the north side a trail follows the river upstream for about five miles to the end of the road from Swan Falls Dam. A side trail leads to Halverson Lake, nestled against the cliffs of the canyon wall.

We didn’t have time to do any hiking at Celebration Park, but the trail to Swan Falls would be an interesting outing, and a good place to do some serious raptor watching, if you’re so inclined, away from most of the human influences in the Conservation Area.

Back in Boise, we toured the World Center For Birds of Prey the following morning. The staff there are friendly and knowledgeable, and dedicated to the mission of educating the public about birds of prey and protecting the vulnerable populations of raptors around the world. We sat in on a talk given by two of the staff that was fascinating, informative, and entertaining.

There are a number of raptors from around the world on display there, birds that for one reason or another could not be returned to the wild. Being able to see these magnificent birds up close was a highlight of our trip. The center is also home to a pair of California Condors, North America’s largest bird, that are part of the captive breeding program that has helped save the species from extinction.

For more on Boise, a lively, surprisingly cosmopolitan city that still has a small town vibe, and the other posts in this series, click on the links below:

Thousand Springs

Balanced Rock and Bruneau Dunes

Downtown Boise

Originally posted June 20, 2019. Most recently updated April 8, 2025.

Exploring Southwest Idaho, Part 2: Balanced Rock and Bruneau Dunes

by Alan K. Lee

Southwest Idaho is full of interesting and unusual places, Balanced Rock and Bruneau Dunes prominent among them. They’re a couple of the most unique places you’ll find anywhere, and stunningly beautiful, as well.

Balanced Rock

After touring the Thousand Springs area at the beginning of an extended Memorial Day weekend trip to Southwest Idaho, my wife and I took a short side trip to Balanced Rock, a rock formation sculpted by wind and the freeze/thaw cycle of countless millennia.

Balanced Rock is located about twenty miles west of Twin Falls and ten miles from Buhl, the nearest town. The area around Buhl is flat, featureless farm land that looks more like Kansas than the pictures I had seen of Balanced Rock, which had more the look of the Arizona or Utah deserts. But after a few miles, the road began to drop into a canyon and the view and landscape changed radically.

Balanced Rock is nearly fifty feet tall, weighs forty tons, and is supported precariously by a stem of rock less than three feet in diameter. It is, to say the least, a striking sight. We climbed up to the rock and hiked along the hillside above the rock formations (there’s quite a lot more than just Balanced Rock). It’s not a large area, and the trail is short and not difficult. It’s easy to explore in an hour or so, and I found it definitely worth the time and effort. But you can still get a good view of Balanced Rock and the other rock formations from the parking area if you don’t want to, or are unable to, climb up to them.

Bruneau Dunes

The second day of our Idaho trip took us to Bruneau Dunes State Park, about fifteen miles south of Mountain Home, and about forty miles northwest of Balanced Rock. The 470 foot tall Big Dune at Bruneau Dunes is the tallest free standing dune in North America.

The dunes are impressive and certainly the main attraction here, but the park also has two small lakes, marshes and wetland areas, and open desert areas to explore. The marshes and lakes are full of waterfowl, and coyotes, jackrabbits, lizards, and gopher snakes can be found in the drier areas of the park. In the spring, desert wildflowers are abundant.

For hikers, there’s a six mile loop trail that takes you over the top of the dunes. There is also an equestrian camp and a ten mile long horse trail, two campgrounds, a picnic area, and a visitor center. We didn’t do the six mile hike, but did climb the Small Dune, hiked around the smaller lake, checked out the picnic area on the Big Lake, and, of course, spent a lot of time photographing the area.

Bruneau Dunes is also an outstanding “dark skies” area, and the Boise Astronomical Society has constructed an observatory at the park. On weekends, visitors can view the depths of space through the observatory’s 25 inch telescope.

The weather was better than it was for our Thousand Springs and Balanced Rock visits on the previous day, and the sunshine made for some good photo ops. But it got a little warm on the dunes after awhile, and there were swarms of mosquitoes by the water where it was cooler. Still, it was a nice morning’s outing. The dunes and the small lakes between them are incredibly beautiful, and climbing the dunes was a fun adventure.

Bruneau Dunes definitely exceeded my expectations. The dunes are huge, much bigger than I expected, and the area around them is interesting and very beautiful. The park is small enough that it can be explored in half a day, which is what we did, but there’s enough there to keep you occupied for a few days, at least. It’s also a place where you can slow down, relax, and spend some time just enjoying the views and the peace and quiet, which won’t be marred by the presence of dune buggies and trail bikes. They’re prohibited in the park to protect the dunes.

We returned to Boise that afternoon and spent some time exploring the downtown area and the parks and paths along the Boise River Greenway. The next day it was on to the Snake River Canyon, the Birds of Prey National Conservation Area, and the World Center for Birds of Prey. Click on the links below to view other posts from our trip.

Thousand Springs

Snake River Canyon and Birds of Prey

Downtown Boise

Originally posted June 20, 2019. Most recently updated April 2, 2025.

Oxbow Park

by Alan K. Lee

Oxbow Park is a popular picnicking and camping area located on the Sandy River just east of Portland, Oregon at the base of the Cascade foothills. The photos here were taken a few years ago when my wife and I visited on a beautiful fall day.

Oxbow Regional Park is owned and operated by the Metropolitan Service District (Metro for short), the regional government agency covering Multnomah, Washington, and Clackamas. The park covers 1000 acres on both sides of the river. There are twelve miles of hiking trails, five group picnic areas that can accommodate groups as large as 300 people, many smaller picnicking areas, a public campground with 74 tent sites, 12 RV sites, and four ADA accessible sites, and two group campgrounds available to non-profit youth organizations.

In past years, Metro has conducted a variety of nature education programs and activities at Oxbow, including school and group field trips, nature programs for families and individuals, and custom programs for groups. Most of those activities have been put on hold due to the Covid-19 pandemic, but the park still sees plenty of use.

The park can be very crowded on summer weekends, but gets much less use after Labor Day. Even on a sunny October day there were just a few people fishing from the river bank and some out for a hike or just enjoying the sunshine. This section of the river is popular with kayakers and rafters in the summer, but we didn’t see anyone on the river other than one family that floated by on stand up paddle boards.

The Sandy River flows from its headwaters on Mount Hood to the Columbia River at Troutdale. Two sections of the river totaling 25 miles are designated Wild and Scenic, including the section of the river that runs through Oxbow Park.

In 2007 the Marmot Dam on the Sandy River was demolished, making the river free flowing for its entire 57 mile course for the first time in nearly a century, and opening up miles of restored spawning grounds for salmon and steelhead. A smaller dam on the Little Sandy River was also demolished.

One of the more popular events at Oxbow is the annual Salmon Homecoming weekend held in mid-October when you can watch salmon spawning in the gravel beds of the river.

Most of the visitor activity at the park takes place along the banks of the river. The upland trails through the mixed conifer and hardwood forest get much less use. But the forest is beautiful, quiet, and peaceful. If you’re looking for tranquility, head away from the river. On our visit when these photos were taken, we hiked some of the forest trails and saw almost no one.

To get to the park, take I-84 east from Portland to Exit 17 at Troutdale. Turn right onto Graham Road, then left onto the Historic Columbia River Highway. In two blocks, turn right onto Buxton Road. Follow Buxton (which becomes South Troutdale Road) to Division Street. Turn left on Division and follow the signs to the park.

One of the great things about the Pacific Northwest is that there are so many beautiful places like this that are within a half hour drive of even the biggest cities. Just one of the reasons that I think this is one of the best places in the world to live.

Originally posted 10/31/18. Updated and re-posted 12/6/21.

Juneau, Alaska

by Alan K. Lee

I’ve been to Juneau a couple of times, the latest being a few years ago. While it’s not my favorite destination in Alaska (that would be Sitka) or the culturally richest (Anchorage), it is a unique and very interesting place, and a well worth a visit.

Looking north across Auke Bay from Mount Roberts

Getting to Juneau can be a bit difficult. No roads lead to Juneau, so it’s either fly in or come by boat. On both of my trips to southeast Alaska I traveled to Juneau by way of Sitka. On the first trip, my wife and I traveled via the Alaska Ferry system from Ketchikan to Skagway and back, except for the segment from Sitka to Juneau. The ferry schedule and our itinerary didn’t match up, so we flew from Sitka to Juneau and resumed our journey by ferry from there. The ferry schedule didn’t work for us on our more recent visit, either, so we made the short flight from Sitka this time, also.

The Juneau airport is about 10 miles north of the city. You can get to the city by taxi, the municipal bus system, or rental car. Once downtown, you don’t really need a car to explore the city. The downtown is compact and easily walkable. The bus system is also free in the downtown area. But having a car makes getting to Mendenhall Glacier and other outlying areas much easier.

Mendenhall Glacier is a must see when visiting Juneau. It’s located near the airport and the ferry terminal dock. The Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is a good place to start, but if you’re getting around by bus, the closest stop is a mile and a half away. You also have to buy a five dollar (per person) pass to enter. The pass is also required to access some of the area hiking trails. Check the visitor center website for more information. You can park and hike some of the trails, including the popular Nugget Falls Trail that takes you close to the glacier, without buying the pass, so many people skip the visitor center.

Nugget Falls is a short walk (less than a mile) from the parking area and visitor center. It’s more of a cascade down the steep slope of the mountain than a free fall, but the sheer volume and velocity of water crashing down into Mendenhall Lake is awesome. It’s one of my favorite waterfalls anywhere. It would be a great destination in itself, but being so close to the face of Mendenhall Glacier actually draws your attention away from the falls. There are a couple of other short interpretive trails starting from or near the visitor center, and the East Glacier Trail (3.5 mile loop rated moderate) offers great views of the glacier. Across the lake, the West Glacier Trail gets you closer to the glacier than the trails around the visitor center. It’s a four mile out and back hike rated moderate.

Another must see in the Juneau area is the view from Mount Roberts, just southeast of downtown Juneau. You can hike to the 3819 foot summit via a 4.5 mile trail, but a more practical alternative is to take the Mount Roberts Tramway to the 1800 foot level. The tram only takes you halfway to the summit, but the view from the top of the tram is still pretty spectacular. You’re looking down on the city directly below, the town of Douglas across Gastineau Channel, and across to the mountains of Douglas Island. You can also see for miles up and down Gastineau Channel.

But if that’s not good enough for you, you can access the Mount Roberts Trail from the top of the tram to get higher up the mountain. The top of the tramway is at about timberline, so the views from above are unimpeded. The tram is operated by a Native American corporation, and The Mountain House at the top of the tram features a 120 seat theater that shows a free 18 minute film depicting Tlingit history and culture. There is also a restaurant and gift store in the Mountain House. And Gastineau Guiding operates the Nature Store at the top of the tram where you can get information on area hiking trails and the mountain ecosystem. The tram costs $60 per person ($45 for kids), but it’s money well spent.

View across Fritz Cove from Douglas Island

Whale watching is another popular tourist activity in Juneau. A number of companies offer half and full day cruises in the waters around Juneau. Most tours are 3-5 hours long and cost $150-250 per person. Humpback Whales are common and sightings are generally guaranteed. Orcas also frequent the area. Sea kayaking tours are also popular. Five-hour tours in Auke Bay run about $200 per person. Experienced kayakers can rent single kayaks for about $60 per day. Double kayaks run slightly higher. Canoe and kayak tours of Mendenhall Lake are also available and are a great way to see both the glacier and Nugget Falls.

On our first trip to southeast Alaska back in 1995 we took a day-long small boat cruise up Tracy Arm, a glacial fjord about 45 miles south of Juneau. It’s stunningly beautiful, with dozens of waterfalls, some as high as 1000 feet, cascading down the sometimes vertical walls of the fjord. You’ll almost certainly see seals, porpoises, bald eagles, and many other marine birds. Orcas and humpback whales frequent the area. You may see black bears along the shore and mountain goats on the cliffs. You’ll navigate between small icebergs.

Seals often haul out on the bergs to rest and sleep. At the head of the inlet you’ll get a close up view of South Sawyer Glacier. How close you get will depend on the boat that you’re on and the amount of ice in the water, but you will get a spectacular look at the face of the glacier and there’s a chance that you’ll witness large blocks of ice calving off the face and crashing into the water below. The cruise was one of the highlights of our trip. We didn’t have time to repeat the cruise on latest visit, but if you can fit it into your itinerary, I highly recommend that you do so. Day trips start at about $275 per person.

Another highly rated outing is a helicopter tour of the Juneau Icefield. I haven’t done this one, but several of the reviews I read called it “the adventure of a lifetime,” and the photos I’ve seen are pretty awesome. A 2-3 hour tour of the 1500 square mile icefield that lands and lets you set foot on the ice starts at around $425 per person. Salmon and halibut fishing charters are another popular activity in Juneau (although Ketchikan is probably a more popular fishing destination). Costs vary by operator, but figure around $600 per person for a four hour trip.

The area around Juneau is so wild, unspoiled, and spectacularly beautiful that it is the main draw, but the city has plenty of appeal in itself. The downtown area is compact and easily walkable, and most attractions are close by each other.

If you’re interested in local history, you’ll find the Alaska State Museum of interest. It houses an extensive collection of Native Alaskan artifacts, including fragments of three baskets that are more than 5000 years old. The museum also has a collection of artifacts from the Russian colonial period and early American presence, as well as works by contemporary Native artists. The Juneau-Douglas City Museum, might also be of interest. It’s located across the street from the State Capitol, in the Veteran’s Memorial Building, which is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. The Sealaska Heritage Institute, dedicated to the “study and sharing of Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian cultures” is another place that you can learn more about the history and culture of the area. The St. Nicholas Orthodox Church will also be of interest. All four are within easy walking distance of each other in downtown Juneau.

Juneau also has a number of outstanding art galleries, including the Juneau Artists Gallery, the Louise Miller Fine Art Studio, and Annie Kaill’s Fine Crafts Gallery.

Juneau has no shortage of places to get top notch seafood. You won’t find fresher fish anywhere. Try Tracy’s King Crab Shack, Twisted Fish Company, The Hangar On the Wharf, or Deckhand Dave’s Fish Tacos. There are other good places to eat (and drink), as well. We found a cool local hangout, The Island Pub, in Douglas where our B&B was located, that had both good food and good beer. We also stumbled onto a little hole-in-the-wall brewery (more like a home brew operation than a commercial brewery) in downtown Juneau, and visited the Alaskan Brewing Company brewery tasting room (definitely not a hobby scale brewery) in Lemon Creek, near the airport.

There are a number of quality hotels in the downtown area. Expect to pay $250 and up for any hotel in downtown Juneau during the summer. The Juneau Hotel has 72 suites, all with full kitchens and a washer and dryer. Summer rates start at around $400 per night. There are also many B&Bs and vacation rentals that are much more affordable. Our Airbnb rental in Douglas was more than adequate and was reasonably priced.

A note on the weather. Be prepared for rain and cold any time of the year. We were in Juneau the first week in June and saw the sun only briefly in the four days we spent there. High temperatures were in the mid 50s with some light rain. After leaving Juneau we spent three days in Ketchikan and it rained sideways for a good two days straight. Prior to arriving in Juneau, though, our stay in Sitka had been sunny and beautiful. On our 1995 trip, it was sunny in Ketchikan both on our arrival and our departure two weeks later, but those were the only times we saw the sun. The moral of the story is the weather you get is the weather you get. But regardless, Juneau and all of southeast Alaska is such an incredible place that experiencing bad weather there is almost inconsequential. Come prepared, but don’t worry about the weather. It’ll be worth it.

Originally posted Nov. 6, 2021. Most recent update Jan. 15, 2025.

Stehekin and Lake Chelan

by Alan K. Lee

My wife and I have visited the small community of Stehekin at the head of Lake Chelan in central Washington several times. Our most recent visit came on a week-long escape during the pandemic in 2021.

Lake Chelan is a fjord-like body of water, fifty miles long and no more than two miles wide at any point. It is also one of the deepest lakes in the United States, with a maximum depth of 1486 feet. Only Crater Lake and Lake Tahoe in the U.S. are deeper. The upper end of the lake is part of Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, which borders North Cascades National Park.

The Lake Chelan Basin was formed by two glaciers during the last ice age, an alpine glacier that came down the valley from the North Cascades, and a lobe of the Cordilleran ice sheet that later came up the valley from the east. The terminal morraine of the Cordilleran glacier, at what is known as The Narrows, forms the narrowest and shallowest part of the lake.

The town of Chelan, 170 miles east of Seattle and 160 miles west of Spokane, lies at the lower, eastern end of the lake, and is the jumping off spot for exploring the lake. While Chelan offers a lot for the visitor to enjoy, we spent only one night there before heading up the lake in 2021. We stayed at the Riverwalk Inn, a 13 room hotel across the street from Riverwalk Park that has been in operation since 1918. There is also a café on the property, but, unfortunately, it was closed when we were there.

While I can recommend the Riverwalk Inn, Chelan has a wide variety of other lodging options, from rustic cabins to full service hotels. Chelan also has a variety of places to eat and drink. If you’re a fan of craft beers, you’ll want to check out Stormy Mountain Brewery. While the service was somewhat lacking, the beer selection and quality were both good and the pulled pork nachos we had were superb.

The lower end of the Lake Chelan is easily accessible and can be explored by car. From Chelan, the South Lakeshore Road goes as far as Twenty-five Mile Creek State Park, twenty miles from Chelan. On the north shore, you can drive as far as Green Point, about ten miles from Chelan. Beyond those two points, though, there are no roads along either shore of the lake, and no access to the lake by road. The only way to explore the majority of the lake is by boat.

Between Twenty-five Mile Creek State Park and Stehekin the surrounding mountains drop steeply to the shore. The only structures you will see are a few isolated cabins along the shore and a small group of cabins at Lucerne.

Stehekin lies near the upper end of the lake, surrounded by the peaks of the North Cascades. It is a strikingly beautiful and totally unique place. What sets Stehekin apart from almost all other communities in the Pacific Northwest is that you cannot get there by car. The only road out of Stehekin dead ends in North Cascades National Park. You have to come by boat, float plane, or on foot. The Stehekin area has fewer than 100 year round residents, but, despite its isolation, bustles with tourists, summer residents, Pacific Crest Trail through-hikers, and seasonal workers from spring through fall.

Getting to Stehekin from Chelan requires some advance planning. If you don’t have a boat of your own, you can rent one in Chelan, but most visitors to Stehekin come by passenger ferry. Lake Chelan Boat Company (better known as Lady of the Lake) operates three ferries that run from Chelan to Stehekin. Another option is the Stehekin Ferry, which runs from Fields Point Landing (about 17 miles from Chelan on the south shore of the lake) to Stehekin. In the summer months, demand is high and tickets sell out well in advance. Reservations need to be several months before your planned visit. Note: Lake Chelan Boat Company is in the process of acquiring the Stehekin Ferry business, so you should be able to reserve a trip on the Stehekin Ferry through the Lady of the Lake website linked above beginning sometime in the spring or summer of 2025.

You can do a day tour from Chelan to Stehekin and back via ferry, and many visitors to Stehekin are day trippers. But the length of the ferry ride (from an hour and a half to four hours each way, depending on which ferry) limits the amount of time you have to explore the area. Many people, my wife and I included, prefer to spend multiple days in Stehekin, but lodging options are limited and also require some advance planning.

North Cascades Lodge (photo from lodge website)

North Cascades Lodge in Stehekin is located at the ferry landing. It’s the most convenient and has by far the most rooms available. The only other lodging options are private cabin rentals, the Stehekin Valley Ranch, ten miles up the valley from the ferry landing, and a few primitive campgrounds. Lodging reservations must also be made well in advance, and must be coordinated with your ferry reservations.

We have stayed at North Cascades Lodge several times. You can rent a room (some with fireplaces) with a private bath, a cabin with a small kitchen, or an entire lakefront house that sleeps as many as 12. Our room was fairly basic, but comfortable and large enough to serve our needs well. The lodge also has a store and a full service restaurant, one of the few dining options in Stehekin. Stehekin Valley Ranch also has a dining room (reservations required), and you can get breakfasts and lunches at Stehekin Valley Pastry Company (aka The Bakery), located a couple of miles from the ferry landing. The only other dining option is renting a cabin with a kitchen and cooking your own meals.

A few people arrive in Stehekin by float plane. A surprising number arrive on foot, many of them Pacific Crest Trail through-hikers. The PCT crosses the Stehekin River at High Bridge about ten miles up the valley from the head of the lake. The National Park Service operates a shuttle bus (called the Red Bus for obvious reasons) between Stehekin and High Bridge. There is also a post office in Stehekin where through-hikers can send supplies for the final leg of their hike to the Canadian border and the end of their journey. And a few backpackers make it to Stehekin via the 23 mile hike over Cascade Pass from the west side of the Cascades.

Stehekin is one of the most isolated communities in the country. Not only is there no road access, there’s no cell phone service and only very limited wi-fi. But that’s part of its appeal. Turn off your phone. Forget about TV. The sheer beauty of the place and its proximity to North Cascades National Park and Glacier Peak Wilderness, as well as the PCT, make it an ideal destination for the outdoor oriented traveler. And there are plenty of things to keep you entertained while there.

The Golden West Visitor Center, operated by the National Park Service, is located near the ferry terminal and is a good starting point for your exploration of the area. There is an information desk there, and you can find books, maps, and other items related to the area. And audiovisual programs are available throughout the day. It was closed due to the Covid-19 pandemic when we were last there, and was closed during the Pioneer Fire in 2024, but should reopen for the 2025 season. Check the North Cascades National Park website for more information.

Just uphill from the North Cascades Lodge, adjacent to the visitor center, there is a craft shop, The House That Jack Built, that displays and sells souvenirs, hand crafted gifts, and artwork created by local artisans. It’s small, but worth checking out.

You can rent bikes (or bring your own) and ride the road up the valley to The Bakery (a must stop), 320 foot high Rainbow Falls (another must stop), The Garden, an organic produce farm, the Old Stehekin School (now a free museum), or all the way to High Bridge. The Red Bus also makes daily runs to The Bakery, Rainbow Falls, and High Bridge. You can even rent ATVs and explore the valley that way (no off-roading allowed, though).

You can rent kayaks or an electric boat at Stehekin to explore the lake, and there are a number of hiking options, from short loop trails in the Stehekin area to longer outings along the shore of the lake or from the Rainbow Falls and High Bridge areas. Or you can just relax in Stehekin and enjoy the view of the lake and the surrounding mountains.

On our most recent outing we rented bikes and rode to the Bakery and Rainbow Falls one morning. That is a very easy ride on a paved road. We also stopped at The Garden and the Old Stehekin School. Above Harlequin Bridge the road is gravel and a little more challenging, although on a previous visit we rode all the way to High Bridge and back.

The next day we rode the Red Bus to High Bridge in the morning to hike and photograph the upper end of the valley, and returned on the Red Bus that afternoon. There are several worthwhile hikes starting at High Bridge. The 5.5 mile out and back Agnes Gorge Trail leads to a 200 foot deep canyon and a very scenic section of Agnes Creek in Glacier Peak Wilderness. You can also do the 3.3 mile out and back hike from High Bridge to Howard Lake on the PCT. It’s also possible to do a longer loop that takes you past Howard Lake and returns to High Bridge along the Stehekin River. Or you can hike a portion of the PCT that follows Agnes Creek. High Bridge is also the starting point for the 16 mile roundtrip to the summit of McGregor Mountain, more than 6500 vertical feet above High Bridge – more than a bit beyond my capabilities at this point, I’m afraid.

We had planned to get out on the lake on our final day in Stehekin, but it was very windy that day, so we spent the day reading and relaxing at the lodge instead. No problem, though. The beauty and uniqueness of the Stehekin area make it a wonderful place even when the weather doesn’t cooperate. It’s one of my favorite places in the Northwest to visit despite the difficulty in getting there. The only reason that we haven’t visited more often is that there are so many other wonderful places in the Pacific Northwest (and beyond) to explore.

Originally posted September 30, 2021. Most recently updated February 22, 2025.

Mount Rainier

By Alan K. Lee

One of the benefits of living in the Pacific Northwest is that you have incredible places like Mount Rainier National Park almost in your back yard. Mount Rainier is close enough to both Seattle and Portland that it’s possible to visit the mountain as a day trip, which many people do. But Rainier is so large, and there is so much to explore, that you can’t even begin to experience all it has to offer in a day, or even a week.

My wife and I have vacationed in Mount Rainier National Park a number of times over the years. Our favorite part of the park is the aptly named Paradise area, located on the south slope of the mountain at an elevation of 5400 feet, 9000 feet below the summit. The name Paradise was bestowed on the area by Martha Longmire, one of the early developers of tourist facilities in the area, more than a century ago. But appreciation for the beauty of this spot goes back much farther. Native Americans frequented the area long before it was discovered by white settlers, and they apparently appreciated its beauty just as much. Their name for the area, Saghalie Illahe, translates to Heavenly Place or Land of Peace.

Paradise is the most visited section of Mount Rainier National Park for good reason. Subalpine meadows abound with lupine, paintbrush, and dozens of other wildflowers. Small streams and waterfalls course down the mountain. There are many trails in the area that offer spectacular views of the Tatoosh Range to the south, and, of course, of Rainier itself.

Summer weekends are usually very, very crowded. There may be long lines at the Nisqually Entrance to the park, and you’re unlikely to find a parking spot anywhere close to the Jackson Visitor Center or Paradise Inn after mid-morning. Even if you get there early, you’ll still be elbow to elbow with other visitors. If you can visit during the week, I’d highly recommend doing so, and even then I would recommend getting there as early in the day as possible. But even if you can only visit on a summer weekend, Paradise is such an incredible place to see that it’s worth putting up with the crowds, provided that you can actually find a place to park. If you can’t, though, there are many other places in the park worth visiting.

The popularity of Paradise has certainly impacted the area. The meadows above Paradise Inn are crisscrossed with trails, many of them paved, and the sheer number of people using them can’t help but have a negative effect on the quality of the area in terms of wildlife habitat. But even close to Paradise Inn and the Jackson Memorial Visitor Center, you are almost certain to see wildlife such as hoary marmots and golden-mantled ground squirrels.

Yellow-pine chipmunks are also frequently seen in the meadows. Black-tailed deer are abundant in the area and may be seen even close to the visitor facilities. Gray Jays and Clark’s Nutcrackers are frequently seen in the area, and more than sixty other species of birds are known to inhabit the subalpine areas of Mount Rainier, almost fifty of which nest in the park.

On the trails above Paradise, you are likely to see other wildlife. Look for mountain goats on the slopes above you. Black bears, elk, coyotes, bobcats, and cougars also frequent the area. Look (and listen) for pikas on talus slopes.

Hiking opportunities are abundant in the Paradise area. The Falcon Guide, Hiking Mount Rainier National Park, is a good resource. On our most recent trip (in August 2021) we spent five days in Paradise and did at least one hike every day.

The highlights of the trip were the two hikes we did on the Skyline Trail. The first was the four mile out and back hike to Panorama Point. The second was the roughly four mile Skyline-Golden Gate loop. Both are listed as “moderate” hikes, but both have significant elevation gains (1700′ and 1400′ respectively). We did both hikes early in the day during the week, but we were far from the only ones on the trail, especially on the hike to Panorama Point. But the area above Paradise is so incredibly scenic that the crowds didn’t diminish the experience much.

There are also plenty of easy hikes in the Paradise area for people who don’t want to (or aren’t able to) hike to the higher areas on the mountain. Myrtle Falls, for example, is an easy one mile round trip hike from Paradise Inn.

On our last few visits, we have stayed at Paradise Inn. It is one of the grand lodges of the Northwest, on a par with Crater Lake Lodge, Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood, and Lake Quinault Lodge in Olympic National Park. It’s worth visiting, even if you’re not staying there. It’s an amazing structure.

Paradise Inn was constructed in 1915-16 opened July 1, 1917. The attached Annex was completed three years later. The combined structures are listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

Close to Paradise Inn, the Jackson Memorial Visitor Center, named after long-time U.S. Senator Henry M. Jackson, offers general information, exhibits, a park film, guided ranger programs, a book/gift store and a cafeteria. Unfortunately, all visitor centers in the park are currently closed due to the ongoing pandemic.

Accommodations in the area are somewhat limited. Paradise Inn has 121 rooms, 42 in the main lodge and 79 in the attached Annex. The National Park Inn in Longmire has 25 rooms. Reservations for both can be made through Mount Rainier Guest Services, 360-569-2275. Information on accommodations outside of the park can be obtained from the Mount Rainier Visitor Association . All reservations should be made well in advance.

There are two large campgrounds in the southern part of Mount Rainier National Park. Cougar Rock Campground, between Longmire and Paradise, has 173 individual sites and five group camp areas. Ohanapecosh Campground, in the southeast part of the park near the Stevens Canyon Entrance, has 188 individual sites and two group camp areas. Both have RV sites that can accommodate up to 27 foot trailers and 32 foot motor homes (35 foot at Cougar Rock), but there are no hookups. Both do have dump stations. Reservations can be made through the Mount Rainier National Park website.

Both Paradise Inn and the National Park Inn have full service restaurants, but both were operating on a reduced scale due to the pandemic when we were there in August. The National Park Inn dining room was closed, but take out meals could be ordered and picked up at the reception desk in the lobby. The dining room at Paradise Inn was open for dinner only for most of our visit, but closed (unexpectedly) for the season on our last day there. Paradise Inn also has a limited service cafe, and there is a cafeteria at the Jackson Memorial Visitor Center that is open daily during the summer season and on most weekends and holidays in the winter (depending on road conditions). The National Park Inn restaurant is open year round.

There is far more to Mount Rainier National Park than just the Paradise, of course. Below Paradise, the Reflection Lakes along the highway offer beautiful views of Mount Rainier.

The nearby Snow Lake Trail is an easy and worthwhile hike. To the east, the Stevens Canyon area has a number of interesting areas, including Box Canyon, a 180 foot deep slot canyon, and a number of roadside waterfalls.

The Longmire area has some interesting history, a museum, nice hiking trails, and the National Park Inn offers both lodging and dining options for the visitor. The road to Longmire is also plowed in the winter, so it’s a year round destination. (The road from Longmire to Paradise is open in winter when the weather allows.)

In the Ohanapecosh area in the southeastern corner of the park, the Grove of the Patriarchs Trail is a good family friendly outing. And the nearby Silver Falls Trail is a must for waterfall lovers. In the northeastern section of the park, the Sunrise area offers beautiful views of the eastern side of the mountain and has an abundance of hiking trails.

You could probably spend an entire summer in Mount Rainier National Park and not see it all.

Originally posted July 10, 2018. Updated and re-posted September 18, 2021.