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Hosmer Lake, Central Oregon

Hosmer Lake is located just off the Cascade Lakes Highway, about 30 miles west of Bend, Oregon. The water is cold and crystal clear, and the scenery is spectacular. Mount Bachelor (elevation 9065 feet) rises only a few miles to the east, and the 10,358-foot South Sister and 9173-foot Broken Top are only slightly farther away, in full view to the north.

The photos here are from a summer day of kayaking on Hosmer a few years ago.

Hosmer Lake is an interesting body of water, well on its way to becoming a marsh or a meadow (in a few thousand years, perhaps). Big Marsh, about 40 miles to the south is an example of a former lake that has become all marshland. The technical term for this process is lake succession if you’re interested in learning more about it.

Hosmer Lake is a mix of open water and reeds, rushes, water lilies, and other marsh plants. Motorized craft (except for electric motor powered) are not allowed on the lake, which makes it ideal for kayaking or canoeing. It’s also not a big lake at 160 acres, so you can easily explore it all in an afternoon.

Hosmer is a popular fishing destination because it is one of the few lakes in Oregon that are stocked with Atlantic salmon. According to the Oregon Dept. of Fish and Wildlife, the Atlantic salmon average 16 inches in length and range up to 22 inches. It’s also stocked with brook trout, which run only slightly smaller. It is a fly fishing only lake, so that limits its use somewhat. My wife and I have kayaked there a number of times, and it’s never been crowded.

Hosmer Lake is also a popular birding area. Waterfowl and shore birds, such as American Bitterns, Virginia Rails, Sora, and Wood Ducks, are common. Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds are abundant during the breeding season and into the fall. And Clark’s Nutcrackers, Gray Jays and other birds can often be seen in the forest surrounding the lake. The relatively uncommon Three-toed and Black-backed Woodpeckers are also found in the surrounding area.

Elk and black bear also frequent the area. And let’s not forget the mosquitoes. Forget your insect repellent at your own risk here. Early in the season is especially bad.

At an elevation of 4966 feet, the recreational season is short at Hosmer. There may be snow and the lake may be still frozen until late May or even into early June some years, and the first snow in the fall can come anytime after the middle of September. But the short summer is glorious.

Hosmer is a good place to pitch a tent or park your RV. There are two small forest service campgrounds on the lake that have about 35 sites between them. Note that no water is available at theses campgrounds, so campers will need to bring their own. Water is available at Little Fawn Campground (8 sites) on the south end of nearby Elk Lake and there are many other forest service campgrounds in the surrounding area. There is also a resort at the north end of Elk Lake.

Hosmer Lake is fed by Quinn Creek, which flows into the north end of the lake. Quinn Creek is narrow and shallow, but it is possible to paddle up it for a ways. When we were there last, downed trees blocked our passage a few hundred yards from the mouth of the creek. We hauled our kayaks out of the water at that point and hiked along the creek to a small waterfall where we ate lunch and lingered awhile before heading back out on the water.

Recalling our visits to Hosmer Lake, I’m eager now to get back to the area and get back on the water again. It’s a beautiful place, and one of my favorite destinations. Hosmer Lake is located in the Deschutes National Forest. Check the Forest Service website for information on forest fire danger and possible use restrictions.

While Hosmer Lake is a worthy destination in its own right, there are plenty of other attractions in the immediate area. Elk Lake, a popular fishing and camping spot, is just west of Hosmer Lake. Sparks Lake, to the northeast, is another good canoeing and kayaking destination. There are a number of other lakes along the Cascade Lakes Highway, many trailheads along the highway that give access to the Three Sisters Wilderness, and many campgrounds in the area.

Nearby Mount Bachelor Resort is one of the prime alpine and Nordic ski areas in the Northwest, but it’s also worth a visit in the summer. Take a chair lift to Pine Mountain Lodge at the 7748 foot level and dine at the restaurant there. Then, if you’re adventurous enough, you can take the 3-stage, 1.3-mile long zip line that descends nearly 1400 vertical feet to the base of the mountain. Or just ride the chairlift back down and enjoy the magnificent views of the South Sister, Broken Top, and the surrounding area.

Originally posted December 10, 2018 by Alan K. Lee

Most recently edited and updated September 25, 2023

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Skyline Trail, Mount Rainier

Skyline Trail Loop

Where: Mount Rainier National Park

Distance: 4.4 to 5.9 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: 1700 feet

Difficulty: Moderate to Hard (for distance and elevation gain)

Map:

Paradise area trail map and description (from the Mount Rainier National Park website).

Overview:

The Skyline Trail loop is one of the Pacific Northwest’s iconic hikes. Beginning at the Visitor Center in the Paradise section of the park, the trail takes you up the mountain with great views of the summit, awesome views of the Nisqually Glacier, and panoramic views south to the Tatoosh Range and Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams in the distance. The high point of the trail is just over 7000 feet in elevation (and still 7400 feet below the summit). The lower portions of the trail take you through alpine forest and mountain meadows. The upper part is all above timberline with open views in all directions.

The Paradise area is famous for its spectacular wildflower displays that carpet the meadows, including the alpine meadows above timberline. Look for deer and elk in the lower meadows and forested areas. Look, and listen, for hoary marmots and pikas along the trail. Gray Jays and Clark’s Nutcrackers are common (and tame) below timberline, and you might see White-tailed Ptarmigans in the higher reaches.

The Skyline Trail is a very popular hike for many reasons, and you will have plenty of company on it. But the views are incredible, the mountain is utterly massive, and wildlife and wildflowers are abundant, all of which make putting up with the crowds well worth it.

Getting there:

From Portland, take Interstate-5 north to US Hwy 12 (Exit 68). Follow US12 east to Morton, then Washington Hwy 7 north to Elbe. Turn east on Hwy 706 and proceed to the Longmire Entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. In the park, follow the signs to Paradise.

From Seattle, take I-5 south through Tacoma to Exit 127 (Hwy 512). Go east on Hwy 512 to Hwy 7, then south to Elbe. From Elbe, proceed as described above.

The park entrance fee is $30 if you don’t have one of the various national park passes and is good for seven days. The park no longer accepts cash payments.

Best Times to Go:

The hiking season is limited in the Paradise area and even more so for the upper part of the Skyline Loop. Paradise is also the most visited part of the park and is always crowded on summer weekends, so your best bet is to come on a weekday morning, or anytime after Labor Day. Even then, you may have trouble finding a parking spot. There are plenty of other worthwhile hikes in the Longmire and Paradise areas, so come prepared with a Plan B hike just in case.

Another option, if you can afford it, is to book a room at Paradise Inn, which allows you to park in the inn’s parking lot. But even that doesn’t guarantee you a parking spot, as we found out one afternoon after returning from a day hike lower on the mountain. The inn’s lot was full, as was the visitor center lot. We had to park in the lower lot and walk to the inn. The National Park Inn in Longmire is another lodging option to consider.

Trailheads:

The trail begins and ends near the Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center. Restrooms and drinking water are available in the visitor center. You can also start the hike from Paradise Inn, just uphill from the visitor center. Parking at the visitor center is limited and fills up early in the day. Parking at Paradise Inn is restricted to visitors staying at the inn. An alternative trailhead starts at the lower parking lot. (There is a trail to the visitor center, or you can take the Deadhorse Creek Trail up the mountain and join the Skyline Trail just below Glacier Vista. Starting at the lower trailhead adds only about two tenths of a mile to the hike.)

The hike:

From the trailhead at the visitor center, the trail heads straight up the mountain on a moderately steep grade. There are a myriad of trails crisscrossing the Paradise area above the visitor center, but most of the trail intersections are well signed. If in doubt, just head uphill. But bring a trail map, just in case.

At the 0.2-mile mark, you’ll come to a junction with the Alta Vista Trail, a side trail that takes you to a good viewpoint before rejoining the Skyline Trail. The Alta Vista Trail adds a little to the elevation gain of this hike, but doesn’t add any distance.

Stay on the main trail at the junction with the Deadhorse Creek Trail. The next trail junction, at the one-mile mark, is with the Glacier View Trail. Like the Alta Vista Trail, the Glacier View Trail parallels the Skyline Trail and doesn’t add any distance to the hike, but does provide a good view of the massive Nisqually Glacier.

Above Glacier View, the Skyline Trail switchbacks up a steeper section of the mountain above timberline. At the 1.6-mile mark you come to the junction with the Upper Skyline Trail (which may be signed as the Pebble Creek Trail). Staying on the main trail will take you to the well-named and very popular Panorama Point, with sweeping views down to Paradise Inn and the visitor center, across to the Tatoosh Range, and beyond to Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams. The Upper Skyline Trail is a three tenths of a mile shortcut and bypasses the often crowded Panorama Point. If you take the shortcut, stay right at the next junction to rejoin the main trail above Panorama Point.

Just above Panorama Point is a restroom open during the summer (it may be closed after Labor Day). Follow the trail going straight up the mountain where you will come to the eastern junction with the Upper Skyline Trail. Older maps show the Skyline Trail descending from Panorama Point across a snow field to the east and rejoining the Upper Skyline Trail on the ridge beyond. That is no longer the official route and is not maintained, although I saw a group of people taking it the last time I was there. Google Maps also still shows that trail.

Just past the junction with the Upper Skyline Trail, you’ll reach the high point of the hike at 7040 feet. From there, the trail traverses the rocky southeastern slopes of the mountain, then descends to the junction with the Golden Gate Trail at the 3.3-mile mark of the hike. Taking the Golden Gate Trail, which switchbacks down a steep slope before rejoining the Skyline Trail, cuts about a mile off the total distance of the hike.

Past the Golden Gate Trail junction, the Skyline Trail follows the crest of a ridge, then descends to a beautiful alpine meadow near the headwaters of the Paradise River. After crossing the river, which is still a small creek at that point, you will come to the junction with the Paradise Glacier Trail at the 3.9-mile mark of the hike, which once led to the famous Paradise Ice Caves. The caves no longer exist, however. Beyond the junction, look for the Stevens-Van Trump Historical Marker, commemorating the first ascent of the mountain in 1870.

Beyond the monument, the trail parallels the edge of a 1000-foot drop off to Stevens Creek to the east before turning west. Stay right at the junction with the Lakes Trail and follow the Skyline Trail as it switchbacks down to meet the Paradise River again. Stay right again at the 4th Crossing Trail junction. The trail then traverses the slope above the river and crosses over a ridge. Just past the lower junction with the Golden Gate Trail, you come to Myrtle Falls at the 5.2-mile mark. Myrtle Falls is one of the most photographed spots in the park, and one of the most crowded. Welcome back to civilization. From Myrtle Falls it’s a short half-mile jaunt back to the trailhead.

Other area attractions and activities:

Mount Rainier National Park offers innumerable attractions other than this hike. The Longmire area has an interesting history and a number of interesting hikes. Between Longmire and Paradise there are several waterfall hikes. The Reflection Lakes area below Paradise has several other nice hikes, as do the Stevens Canyon and Ohanapecosh areas. And the Sunrise area on the east side of the mountain has spectacular views of the mountain and many trails. And, as its name suggests, it offers especially gorgeous views of the mountain at sunrise.

Conclusion:

The Skyline Trail, even if you hike only a portion of the loop, should be on every hikers bucket list of destinations. There simply is no other high altitude trail that is as accessible and as scenic in the Pacific Northwest.

Posted September 8, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos ©Alan K. Lee

Smith Rock State Park

By Alan K. Lee

Smith Rock State Park in Central Oregon is a mecca for rock climbers, but it’s more than that. Its natural beauty also attracts hikers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, birders and wildlife lovers, fishermen, photographers, and countless others.

Several thousand climbing routes exist within the park, including more than a thousand bolted routes. Climbers literally come from all over the globe to climb here. And an extensive trail system within the park offers hikers a variety of routes of varying lengths and difficulty. Many of the trails are multi-use trails, open also to mountain bikers and horseback riders. Click here to view a map of the park trail system.

Thirty million years ago the area that is now Smith Rock was on the western rim of the Crooked River Caldera. Over time, nearby volcanic eruptions filled the caldera with ash that compacted into volcanic tuff. The tuff was later overtopped with basalt lava flows from vents about fifty miles away. The Crooked River then eroded much of that, leaving the formations we see today.

I’m not a rock climber, but I’ve been coming to Smith Rock on a fairly regular basis for more than half a century. Growing up, my family would often come to Central Oregon to camp and fish, and many times we would make the short detour to Smith Rock on our way home. I’ve been there when the park was almost deserted, something I will probably never see again. Park usage has grown exponentially in recent years, more than doubling in the five years between 2014 and 2019.

On summer weekends you need to come early to have a chance of finding a place to park. The parking areas fill up quickly, and it’s not unusual to see cars parked along both sides of the road leading to the park and people walking in the road. There has been a shuttle system proposed that would allow visitors to park in the nearby town of Terrebonne and bus into the park, but that (to the best of my knowledge) has yet to be implemented. Even during the week, and on spring and fall weekends, parking can be a problem.

The park’s popularity is understandable, but with that has come problems of overcrowding, illegal parking and camping, pedestrian safety, conflicts with local residents and adjacent land owners, degradation of the park’s natural areas, and other problems. Oregon State Parks has recently finalized an updated park master plan that will address those issues. Changes could include creation of a new park entrance, additional parking areas, installation of “smart gates” and elimination of roadside parking, relocation and expansion of the walk-in bivouac camping area, relocation and expansion of the visitor center, a new day-use area, new trailheads, additional bridges across the Crooked River, a new trail to Terrebonne, and new composting toilets in the climbing areas.

October 2023 update:

The trail bridge across the Crooked River that had been closed for reconstruction is now open. Construction of the the new, wider bridge (pictured above) was completed in early October.

Despite the crowds and other problems, Smith Rock is a Pacific Northwest bucket list destination, not to be missed. It’s a spectacularly beautiful place. But if you’re looking for a wilderness experience, you won’t find it at Smith Rock (except maybe in the middle of winter). If you don’t mind sharing the place with others, though, the park is large enough that visitors tend to spread out, and even at full capacity the park doesn’t feel overly crowded if you get a little ways away from the parking areas. (A recent visitor survey found that 69% of the respondents felt the park to be somewhat to very crowded, however.)

You can avoid the worst of the crowds and the hassles that the limited parking creates by visiting in the spring or fall during the week. Visiting in winter might even offer a bit of solitude, and the clear and cold days that are often found then can be one of the best times to photograph the magnificent rock formations. And they are truly magnificent.

The park is located just east of the town of Terrebonne, which is about 25 miles north of Bend, Oregon, and about 140 miles southeast of Portland. For more information, go to the Smith Rock State Park website, or the independent SmithRock.com site.

Originally posted on March 11, 2019. Updated most recently on October 11, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted.

Fort Stevens State Park, Oregon Coast

Introduction

Fort Stevens State Park is one of the most popular and most visited parks in Oregon, and for good reason. It includes a nice beach with good clamming at low tides, a freshwater lake with two picnic grounds, hiking trails, abundant wildlife habitat (including that of a resident herd of Roosevelt elk), a shipwreck, a large campground, and more. And it has an interesting history.

History

From 1864 to 1947, Fort Stevens was an active military base, one of three forts at the mouth of the Columbia River built to protect the entrance to the river. After decommissioning, the fort became the property of the Army Corp of Engineers. In 1975 ownership was transferred to the State of Oregon and became part of Fort Stevens State Park. Many of the concrete gun batteries are still present and open to the public. The park also includes a military history museum, and tours of an underground WWII-era portion of the fort are available.

Fort Stevens State Park was created in 1955 after Clatsop County gifted a parcel of land south of the old military base to the State of Oregon. The state expanded the park several times between 1955 and 1975. The addition of the grounds of the historic Fort Stevens brought the park area to its present size of 4300 acres.

In addition to its military history, Fort Stevens State Park is also part of Lewis and Clark National Historic Park.

The Park

Today, Fort Stevens State Park includes a campground with almost 500 campsites (174 with full hookups and 302 with water and electricity). There are also 15 yurts, 11 cabins, and a hiker-biker camp. The campground has bathrooms with flush toilets and hot showers.

There are two large picnic areas on the shores of Coffenbury Lake, a 50-acre freshwater lake that is sheltered from the strong winds that can make the beach a less than pleasant experience at times. The lake has a boat ramp (non-motorized craft or boats with electric motors only), and the lake is stocked with rainbow trout. It also has a variety of warm water fish, including largemouth bass, and is occasionally stocked with steelhead.

The park includes a nine-mile-long bike path, six miles of hiking trails, four miles of ocean beach (part of 15 miles of uninterrupted beach stretching from the south jetty of the Columbia River to the town of Gearhart), two miles of Columbia riverfront beach, and four miles of marshland along the Columbia River Estuary.

Wreck of the Peter Iredale, October 25, 1906. Sourced from Wikimedia Commons.

The Shipwreck

One of the unique features of the park is the shipwreck still visible on the beach after more than a century.

On a foggy night in October 1906, the Peter Iredale, a four masted, steel hulled sailing ship, was blown ashore four miles south of the entrance to the Columbia River by a strong west wind. All 27 crew members were rescued unharmed, but the ship could not be salvaged and has remained on the beach ever since.

The wreck has deteriorated over the past century, but a surprisingly large amount of the hull remains intact. I visited the wreck at low tide in August (2023) and took the photos shown here. (My family camped at Fort Stevens a number of times when I was growing up, but in those days the wreck was buried in the sand, and I don’t remember it being visible on any of our trips there. It wasn’t until fairly recently that I first saw the remains of the ship).

Getting There

Fort Stevens State Park is located near Astoria, Oregon. From Astoria, take US Hwy 101 south across the New Youngs Bay Bridge. Just south of the bridge turn right onto Ore Hwy 104 (E. Harbor Drive). Follow Hwy 104 through downtown Warrenton and follow signs to the park. From the south, take Hwy 101 north, turn left onto Ore Hwy 104 just south of Warrenton, and follow signs to the park.

Nearby Attractions

The area around the mouth of the Columbia River has many interesting places to explore in addition to Fort Stevens. The Lewis and Clark Expedition, the first Americans to explore the area west of the continental divide, reached the mouth of the Columbia in 1806. Members of the expedition built Fort Clatsop, where they spent the winter of 1806-07. The exact location of the fort is unknown, but a replica of the fort, part of Lewis and Clark National Historic Park, is located a few miles east of Fort Stevens where historians believe the fort was located. For hikers, the park features a 6.5-mile trail from Fort Clatsop to the Pacific Ocean at Sunset Beach.

In 1811, John Jacob Astor’s Northwest Company established Fort Astoria at the site of the present-day town of Astoria, the oldest American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. Astoria is an interesting as well as historic town well worth visiting on its own.

North Head Lighthouse, Cape Disappointment State Park

Besides Fort Stevens, there are several other parks in the area. Cape Disappointment State Park is located on the Washington side of the Columbia River. It’s the site of Fort Canby, another of the forts that guarded the mouth of the river. Fort Columbia Historical State Park, a few miles inland on the shore of the Washington side of the river, is the site of the third of the three forts.

Ocean fishing trips can be booked on charter boats at the port town of Ilwaco, on the Washington side of the river across the four-mile-long Astoria-Megler Bridge from the town of Astoria.

Conclusion

Whether you’re a camper, beachcomber, history buff, fisherman, hiker, wildlife enthusiast, photographer, or sightseer, Fort Stevens State Park and the immediate area has something for everyone. And the Long Beach, Washington area north of the Columbia, and the towns, parks, and beaches of the northern Oregon coast also have a lot to offer the traveler. It is no wonder that the area is one of the top tourist destinations in the Pacific Northwest.

Posted August 13, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos by and property of the author, except as noted

A New Trail at Silver Falls

There is a new trail at Silver Falls and a new hike:

The North Canyon Loop

Where: Silver Falls State Park

Distance: 2.4 miles

Elevation gain: 300 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

Oregon State Parks map and brochure.

Overview:

Silver Falls State Park opened a new day use area, called North Canyon, in July 2023, the first phase of a North Gateway complex that will also feature a visitor center and a new 50-unit campground. (Both construction of the campground and completion of the visitor center were put on hold by Oregon State Parks in November 2025 due to a lack of available funds.) North Canyon features a new picnic area, ADA accessible restrooms, and a 59-space parking lot, which more than doubles the available parking in the north end of the park.

North Canyon also features a new trail, the North Rim Trail, that runs along the canyon rim between the new day use area and the existing North Falls parking lot and North Falls trailhead. The new trail is ADA accessible to a viewpoint of North Falls. This new trail at Silver Falls makes possible a new 2.4-mile loop hike that is this week’s hike of the week.

Getting there:

Silver Falls State Park is located about fifteen miles east of Salem, Oregon. Coming from Salem or south, take Ore Hwy 22 east and look for signs to Silver Falls. The turn off onto Ore Hwy 214 is about five miles east of Interstate-5. The South Falls day use area is about 15 miles from Hwy 22. The North Falls parking area is about 2.2 miles farther, and the new North Canyon day use area is just beyond that (look for a sign for the group camp area).

Coming from the north, take exit 271 off I-5 at Woodburn. Proceed through Woodburn on Ore Hwy 214 and follow 214 through the towns of Mount Angel and Silverton. The park is about 12 miles from Silverton. The North Canyon turnoff (old group camp area) is the first right after entering the park. The North Falls parking area is a short distance beyond the North Canyon turnoff.

Trailheads:

You can start and end the North Canyon Loop hike from either the North Falls or the new North Canyon trailheads. Both have restrooms and water is available at both. Day use parking permits cost ten dollars and can be purchased at either parking area. Twelve month and twenty-four month Oregon State Park passes are available for $30 and $50 respectively from the Reserve America website. (Beginning in January 2026, the 12-month pass will increase to $60 and the 24-month pass will no longer be sold.)

The hike:

This hike can be done in either clockwise or counterclockwise directions. Going counterclockwise avoids the steep climb out of the canyon from Twin Falls to the North Canyon trailhead. I went the other way, though.

I started at the new North Canyon trailhead. The North Rim Trail is a wide gravel path with a gradual (less than 5%) grade that is ADA accessible from the trailhead to the North Falls Viewpoint. Beyond that, the trail is narrower and not ADA compliant.

Just beyond the trailhead you’ll come to the junction with the Twin Falls Trail, an older trail that takes you down a steep descent into the canyon. Turn right at the junction to do the loop in the counterclockwise direction.

Beyond the Twin Falls Trail junction, the North Rim Trail meanders through the forest, passing a children’s play area and a small two-table picnic area.

There are two bridges on the new trail built to meet ADA requirements.

North Falls from North Rim Trail viewpoint

In about six tenths of a mile, the ADA accessible portion of the trail ends at a spectacular viewpoint looking up the canyon to North Falls. This is a good spot to stop and linger for a while.

North Rim Trail beyond the North Falls viewpoint

Beyond the viewpoint, the trail is a narrower non-ADA accessible dirt path that continues for another two tenths of a mile to the North Falls parking area. The North Falls and Upper North Falls trailheads are on the opposite side of the parking lot. The 0.6-mile out and back hike to Upper North Falls is a very worthwhile addition to this loop, making for a slightly longer 3.0-mile hike.

From the North Falls trailhead, take the Canyon Trail, which descends a set of steps and then loops back behind North Falls, one of the four falls in the park that you can walk behind. You’ll probably want to linger here, too, for a while. It’s a pretty unique and pretty special spot, in my opinion.

Continue on the Canyon Trail, passing almost directly below the viewpoint on the North Rim Trail, for about a mile to the lower junction of the Twin Falls Trail. Stay on the Canyon Trail for now. The best view of Twin Falls is a few hundred yards beyond the junction. Then retrace your steps and take the Twin Falls Trail, which switchbacks steeply up the side of the canyon. You’ll gain about 250 feet in the first three tenths of a mile. The last two tenths of a mile back to the North Canyon trailhead is still uphill, but not nearly as steep.

Despite the steep climb out of the canyon, this new loop is a relatively easy hike, and a nice addition to the many other possible loops the park offers. As a life-long hiker, I can tell you that Silver Falls is about as close to paradise as it gets, and you could make a good argument for the Trail of Ten Falls being the best hiking trail in the Northwest. Silver Falls State Park has a lot more to offer than just hiking opportunities, too. For an overview of the park as a whole, click here.

Other area attractions and activities:

The nearby town of Silverton has a variety of dining and lodging options. Stop in at the Silver Falls Brewery and Alehouse after your hike for a bite to eat and a pint of craft brewed beer. Or try the Benedictine Brewery near Mount Angel that is operated by monks from the Mount Angel Abbey. Silverton is also home to the Oregon Garden, one of the state’s leading botanical gardens. Next door to the Oregon Garden is the Gordon House, the only surviving Frank Lloyd Wright designed house in Oregon.

Conclusion:

A new trail at Silver Falls is a rare occurrence – I can’t remember an entirely new trail opening at the park in my lifetime – and certainly a welcome one. The North Canyon Loop isn’t the most spectacular hike in the park, but it is a nice addition to the park’s already extensive list of outstanding hiking options.

Posted August 8, 2023 by Alan K. Lee. Updated November 14, 2025.

All photos ©Alan K. Lee

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park

Chehalem Ridge Hike

Where: Chehalem Ridge Nature Park, Washington County, Oregon

Distance: 3.6 to 4.2 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: 400 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

For a map of the entire park, click here.

Overview:

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is owned and operated by Metro, the tri-county regional government agency of the Oregon portion of the Portland metropolitan area. It is Metro’s newest park, opened in 2021. The park has about ten miles of trails. All are open to hikers, most to mountain bikers, and many to horseback riders. Much of the park’s 1250 acres were once a tree farm, and this hike passes through several of those areas, but also traverses several areas of older, more mature and more natural forest. Under protection from Metro, the tree farm areas will eventually transition back into a more natural, wildlife friendly habitat through forest thinning, removal of non-native vegetation and planting of native trees and shrubs.

Getting there:

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is located south of Forest Grove and west of Beaverton. There are a variety of ways to get there depending on your starting point. Enter the address of the park, 38263 SW Dixon Mill Rd, Gaston, OR 97119, into your navigation system or Google Maps to get the best route from your location. There is no public transportation to the park.

Trailhead:

The trailhead for this hike, and other hikes in the park, is located at the park entrance off Dixon Mill Road. There are restrooms and water available at the trailhead. This hike begins just behind the west picnic shelter.

The hike:

Start the hike by taking the Woodland Trail, which meanders through an old tree farm. The trees here are all the same size and age, with little understory growth. The trail ascends gradually to a high point, then descends to its end at Timber Road, 1.4 miles from the trailhead.

Turn left on Timber Road, which crosses Christensen Creek (the low point of this hike) and follow it up the hill. In about three tenths of a mile, you’ll come to the start of the Chehalem Ridge Trail on your right. This is the high point of the hike. Hike up the Chehalem Ridge Trail for about a tenth of a mile, then turn right onto the Witches Butter Trail. This part of the hike passes through another area that was part of a tree farm until recently. There is an overlook on the Witches Butter Trail that gives a nice view east and north across the Tualatin Valley. On a clear day, Mount St. Helens and Mount Hood are visible from there.

In another half mile, turn left onto the Ayeekwa Trail, which runs through an older, more natural forest with a more diverse flora and an understory more typical of the temperate rain forest environment common to the area before European colonization. In about seven tenths of a mile, the Ayeekwa Trail returns to Timber Road at Christensen Creek.

Turn left on Timber Road and re-cross Christensen Creek. Here you have the option of retracing your steps on the Woodland Trail back to the trailhead or following Timber Road up the hill. The Woodland Trail is more scenic, but longer (making for a 4.2 mile hike). If you elect to take Timber Road, look for the Ammefu Trail on your left about a quarter mile from Christensen Creek. This is a short detour through an older forest. There is a bench with a nice view where you can rest. One of the “Three Elders” sculptures done by Adam McIsaac, Bobby Mercier, and Nakoa Mercier is located near the bench.

Where the Ammefu Trail rejoins Timber Road, you can either follow the road back to the trailhead (where you’ll find another of the “Three Elders” sculptures) or cross the road and rejoin the Woodland Trail and take it back to the trailhead.

Timber Road is a shared use trail open to hikers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders (but not motor vehicles), as is Chehalem Ridge Trail. The Woodland Trail and Witches Butter Trail are open to hikers and mountain bikers, but not horseback riders. The Ayeekwa and Ammefu Trails are hiker only.

Other area attractions and activities:

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is in a rural area with no other close by hiking or biking opportunities, but the west metro area, not far from Chehalem Ridge, has an abundance. Some of my favorite hikes in the area include Tualatin Hills Nature Park, Cooper Mountain Nature Park, and, closer to downtown Portland, Hoyt Arboretum in Washington Park. And, if you’re like me, you might want to quench your thirst with a cold beer after your hike. There are many pubs in the west metro area to do just that. Two of the closest are McMenamin’s Grand Lodge in Forest Grove and Mazama Brewing in Hillsboro.

Conclusion:

While Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is not pristine wilderness, it is a worthwhile outing for hikers looking for a new and uncrowded destination in the Portland metropolitan area. It’s also large enough to offer multiple potential hikes, from short loops near the park entrance to out and back hikes exceeding ten miles in length.

Posted July 27, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Hug Point State Park, Oregon Coast

Hug Point State Park

Located near the coastal town of Cannon Beach, Oregon, Hug Point’s unique blend of beaches, tide pools, interesting and unusual rock formations, caves, and waterfall make it one my favorite spots on the coast. The headland also blocks the prevailing northwest wind in the summer, so it’s often quite pleasant there when more exposed beaches are uncomfortably cold.

Besides being one of the nicer and more interesting beaches on the Oregon coast, Hug Point also played an interesting role in securing Oregon’s beaches as public property more than a century ago. Before the coast highway (US 101) was built, the beaches were important transportation routes. In the case of the small community of Arch Cape, located about five miles south of Cannon Beach, the beach was the only route in or out of the town. And travelers had to get around Hug Point, which was difficult for horse drawn carriages and wagons. They had to “hug the point” in rounding it to keep from getting into water too deep to negotiate, even at low tide.

Early motor cars had even more of a problem getting around Hug Point than carriages and wagons. To make the traverse easier and safer, someone blasted a primitive roadway into the face of the headland. Legend has it that it was done by a man after he had lost his new car to the rising tide while trying to navigate around the point. But who actually built it, and when, remains unknown. There are photos of the finished roadway dating to 1915, but there are no surviving records of the roadway’s construction.

In 1911 Oswald West was elected Governor of Oregon, partly on the basis of his campaign promise to protect Oregon’s beaches from private development. The Oregon State Land Board had begun selling tidelands to private investors as early as 1874, but there was widespread opposition to that practice among the populace in the early years of the 20th century. West made the case that the beaches needed to be kept in public ownership to preserve access to coastal communities such as Arch Cape. In 1913 the state legislature agreed, passing a law making the entire coast from California to the Columbia River a state highway. To learn a little more about this often forgotten bit of Oregon history, and Hug Point’s role in it, click here.

The Oregon Beach Bill , promoted heavily by then-Governor Tom McCall, further cemented public ownership of Oregon’s beaches. Passed by the state legislature in 1967, the bill made all coastal lands up to sixteen vertical feet above the low tide line property of the state, and preserved public beach access up to the vegetation line.

I love the eroded sandstone rock formations found at Hug Point. The layered sandstone of the point has been warped and folded by tectonic processes and eroded by wind and water into fantastic formations. The tidewater rocks are covered in green algae and seaweed, barnacles, and mussels. The rocks, sand, colorful vegetation, waves, and ever changing light make for great photo opportunities.

Hug Point State Park is located about five miles south of Cannon Beach. The point can also be reached from Arcadia Beach State Park, about a mile to the north. It’s an easy day trip from the Portland area, but there many other attractions in the area, so many visitors spend a weekend or longer in the area.

The nearby towns of Cannon Beach, Seaside, and Manzanita all have numerous motels, BNBs, and other accommodations, as well as many restaurants and cafes serving fresh seafood and other locally sourced foods. Astoria, located at the mouth of the Columbia River, is both the oldest European settlement and one of the most interesting towns in the Pacific Northwest.

The nearest campgrounds are at Nehalem Bay State Park, about ten miles south of Hug Point, and Fort Stevens State Park, about 25 miles to the north. There are also numerous RV parks all up and down the northern Oregon coast.

Hug Point is one of the nicest beaches on the northern Oregon coast, especially for families, and because of that it can be quite crowded in the summer, even during the week. But if you’re looking for a quiet beach where you can find some solitude, you can sometimes find Hug Point nearly deserted on week days after Labor Day. And Fall offers some of the best weather on the coast. Winter days are frequently wet and windy, but those days have an appeal of their own, and some of my best memories of the coast are from stormy winter days where I had the beach entirely to myself.

One note of caution, though. If you go, pay attention to the tides. The waterfall and caves that draw most of the visitors to Hug Point State Park are nestled between Adair Point, immediately north of the beach access, and Hug Point itself. At high tide it can be difficult or impossible to get around these two points, so it is possible to get trapped between them.

Originally posted January 8, 2019 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted May 10, 2021, and July 20, 2023

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Harry’s Ridge Hike

Where: Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Distance: 7.8 miles

Type: Out and back

Elevation gain: 1500 feet

Difficulty: Moderate (for length)

Overview:

The trail to Harry’s Ridge is one of my favorite hikes on Mount St. Helens. My wife and I spent a long weekend exploring Mount St. Helens a few years ago, and I was eager to see what changes had taken place since my last visit. My wife had been up to the mountain only a couple of weeks before, kayaking Coldwater Lake with a friend of hers, but it had been many years since I had been there.

Mount St. Helens, May 18, 1980. Photo credited to U.S. Geological Survey. Sourced from Wikimedia Commons.

Everyone knows about the eruption of Mount St. Helens, so I won’t go into any detail here. Check out my Mount St. Helens post for more information on the eruption and see more photos of the mountain and the blast zone, if you’re interested.

Harry R. Truman. US Forest Service photo, sourced from Wikimedia Commons

Harry’s Ridge is named for Harry R. Truman, the 83-year-old curmudgeon and owner of Spirit Lake Lodge who refused to evacuate and died in the May 18, 1980 eruption. The hike begins at the Johnston Ridge Observatory, named for volcanologist David A. Johnston, who was camping near where the observatory is now located and was also killed in the eruption).

The observatory provides a panoramic view into the crater of the mountain and down to the valley below that was filled by the eruption landslide, pyroclastic flows, and lahars. It’s an otherworldly vista that you will not find anywhere else in the country.

Getting there:

The observatory is located at the end of the Spirit Lake Highway (WA 504). To get there from the Seattle area, travel south on I-5 and take WA 505 (Exit 63) through the town of Toledo to the junction with WA 504. From Portland, take Exit 49 off I-5 at Castle Rock. Johnston Ridge is approximately 50 miles east of I-5.

2023 update: As of July 6, the Johnston Ridge Observatory is inaccessible due to a landslide near the Coldwater Visitor Center on Hwy 504. Check the Observatory website linked above for more information.

Trailhead:

Park in the Johnston Ridge Observatory parking lot. There is an $8.00 per person per day charge payable in the Observatory. National Park Senior Passes and America the Beautiful Passes allow the holder entry without charge. A Northwest Forest Pass will allow one person entry without charge. But you need to check in at the Observatory before heading out on the trail, even if you have a pass. Trail maps, restrooms and drinking water are available in the Observatory.

The hike:

From the Observatory, follow the paved trail to an overlook on Johnston Ridge near the Observatory. There are good views here into the crater of the mountain and the blast zone. At the junction just beyond the overlook, turn right onto the Boundary Trail.

There are great views all along the trail. Wildflowers were still abundant when my wife and I did this hike in late August. On the north side of the ridge, you will see a new forest beginning to grow. The trail descends gradually for about a mile and a half through mostly open terrain to a trail junction. Stay left here on a new portion of the trail to avoid a traverse of a steep slope on the old trail. At the 1.8-mile mark you will come to another trail junction. Stay left on the Boundary Trail. The trail to the right takes you to the Devil’s Point viewpoint.

At about the two-mile point in the hike the trail descends the south side of the ridge to a junction with the Truman Trail at the 2.2-mile mark. At the junction, continue straight on the Boundary Trail. This section of trail has some shaded spots with small trees and shrubs. The trail then climbs steadily for about another mile and a half to the junction with the Harry’s Ridge Trail.

There are good views of Spirit Lake on the Boundary Trail just beyond the junction. Huckleberry bushes, lupine, and Indian paintbrush are abundant here. Back at the junction, take the Harry’s Ridge Trail up to the summit of the ridge. Along the trail to the summit there are more views of Spirit Lake, Windy Ridge to the east of the lake, and Mt. Adams in the distance.

At the summit of Harry’s Ridge there is a closer view into the crater than can be had from the Observatory, and the blast zone extends around you in all directions. You’ll want to linger here and take in the view. It’s a good spot for lunch, too, and a good turnaround point. The trail continues down the ridge to another lower viewpoint, if you want an even closer view into the crater. When you’re ready to leave, return to the Observatory the way you came.

Other area attractions and activities:

There are other worthwhile hikes that start at Johnston Ridge, as well. The Truman Trail, for example, will take you into the blast zone directly below the crater. Check at the Observatory or the Observatory website for more information. There is also a nice trail around Coldwater Lake, and the lake is a good place to canoe or kayak. And the day after we hiked to Harry’s Ridge my wife and I hiked Lava Canyon, on the southeast side of Mount St. Helens, another hike that is very much worth doing.

Originally posted September 25, 2018 by Alan K. Lee. Most recently updated July 6, 2023.

All photos ©Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Astoria, Oregon

In 1811, barely five years after the members of the Lewis and Clark Expedition had become the first Americans to explore the area, John Jacob Astor’s Pacific Fur Company established Fort Astoria near the mouth of the Columbia River. The fort was sold to the North West Company only two years later and renamed Fort George, but the establishment of Fort Astoria (along with the earlier presence of the Lewis and Clark Expedition) gave the fledgling United States claim to the territory. In 1846 the Oregon Treaty gave possession of the area to the United States and the following year the first U.S. Post Office west of the Rocky Mountains was established in the growing community of Astoria.

Astoria is rich with history and filled with interesting places to explore. It’s also close enough to the Portland area to be an easy day trip. On my last visit, my first stop was the Astoria Column, atop Coxcomb Hill. The 125-foot-tall tower was built in 1926 to commemorate the history of the area, specifically the discovery of the Columbia River by Captain John Gray in 1792, the Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1804-1806, and the establishment of Fort Astoria in 1811.

Construction of the monument was first proposed by Ralph Budd, president of the Great Northern Railroad. It was designed by architect Electus Litchfield, and funding was provided, at least in part, by descendants of John Jacob Astor. The exterior of the Column is decorated with a spiral frieze painted by sgraffito artist and Italian immigrant Attilio Pusterla depicting fourteen events in the history of the area. The Column was listed in the National Register of Historical Places in 1974.

After my stop at the Astoria Column, I had lunch at Fort George Brewery, then spent an hour or two along the waterfront. The Astoria River Walk, an asphalt and boardwalk bike path and walking trail, runs for three miles along the riverfront. In the summer months, the Astoria Riverfront Trolley, a1913 heritage streetcar originally from San Antonio, Texas, runs along the river next to the River Walk. Cost to ride is $1.00, or $2.00 for an all-day hop on, hop off pass.

Replica of Chief Concomly’s burial canoe

Astoria was the first American settlement on the Pacific coast, but of course the real history of the area goes back much farther. The people of the Clatsop Tribe have lived in the area for at least a thousand years, and the area may have been first settled by early Native American peoples as long as 10,000 years ago.

For most the city’s history, the fishing and shipping industries were central to Astoria’s economy. Below the soaring arch of the Astoria-Megler Bridge, Martime Memorial Park honors the many men and women that had been involved in the fishing and seafaring trades during their lives.

Columbia Lightship, Columbia River Maritime Museum

Maritime Memorial and Astoria-Megler Bridge

About a mile east of the Maritime Memorial, the Columbia River Maritime Museum is one of Astoria’s premier attractions. The museum houses a 30,000-item collection related to the history of fishing, shipping, and naval activities of the area. At the CRMM you can also tour the lightship Columbia. Other historical attractions in the area include the Flavel House Museum, a Queen Anne style Victorian mansion built by sea captain George Flavel in 1885, and a replica of the blockhouse of Fort Astoria, the first structure erected in Astoria.

Present day Astoria’s economy is more centered on tourism than fishing or logging. There is a thriving arts community, the weekly street market (Astoria Sunday Market) draws people to the area in the summer, and there is a growing food and drink scene.

For beer lovers, Astoria Brewing, Fort George Brewery, Rogue Pier 39 Public House, and Buoy Beer Company, and Breakside Brewery all offer topflight craft beers and pub food. Reach Break Brewing and Hondo’s Brew Pub are smaller brewers that get high marks, as well. The Pacific Northwest Brew Cup Festival, held in late August at Heritage Square in downtown Astoria, offers craft beers from more than two dozen brewers, as well as food from an assortment of food trucks. Admission is free.

As for cafes and restaurants, Bridgewater Bistro serves up New American cuisine in an old cannery building on the waterfront. Street 14 Cafe serves locally sourced foods for breakfast and lunch. For seafood, try Bowpicker (fish and chips served from a converted fishing boat on Duane Street), or the Silver Salmon Grille on Commercial Street (occupying the space that housed the Thiel Brothers Restaurant for fifty years). Ethnic foods can be found at Drina Daisy’s Bosnian Restaurant, Fulio’s (Italian), Tora Sushi Lounge, Himani Indian Cuisine, and Plaza Jalisco Mexican Restaurant.

Gull and old pilings along the riverfront

Quality coffee houses include Journey’s End Espresso and Kick Ass Koffee, both located near the bridge in the Uniontown District, Coffee Girl, next to Rogue Pier 39 Public House, and The Rusty Cup on Commercial Street in the historic downtown section.

If you’re planning an overnight stay, luxury accommodations can be found at the Cannery Pier Hotel, in an old cannery building on pilings over the water, and the Elliot Hotel (both $300+ per night). Lloyd Hotel and Astoria Riverwalk Inn both get good reviews and are priced mid-range. For bargain accommodations, try the Astoria Crest Motel or the Astoria Rivershore Motel. (The historic John Jacob Astor Hotel, pictured above, is now an apartment building).

A couple of interesting historical notes. The world’s first cable TV system was established in Astoria in 1946 by Ed Parsons, owner of radio station KAST. And one of Clark Gable’s earliest acting gigs was at the Astoria Theater, where he met his first wife, Joan Didion, in the early 1920s. Astoria has also been the filming location for a number of movies in recent decades, including The Goonies, Kindergarten Cop, Free Willy, Short Circuit, and Come See the Paradise.

On my way out of town that afternoon, I stopped at Fort Clatsop, part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Park. In November 1805 the Lewis and Clark Expedition (the Corps of Discovery) reached the mouth of the Columbia River after an 18-month journey from St. Louis. In December they constructed Fort Clatsop, southeast of Astoria, near the shore of what is now the Lewis and Clark River (formerly called the Netul River). The thirty-three members of the expedition wintered there from December 7, 1805 until March 22, 1806. The fort was abandoned when they left to return east, and nothing remains of it today. Its exact location is unknown, but historians are confident that it was in the immediate vicinity of the replica of the fort that is part of the historic park. From the fort there is a short trail to the bank of the river, and a 6.5-mile trail that leads to the ocean at Sunset Beach.

Other attractions in the area include Fort Stevens State Park at the mouth of the Columbia on the Oregon side, and Cape Disappointment State Park on the Washington side.

Originally posted 11/22/18 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted 4/6/21 and 7/3/23.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Lava Canyon, Mount St. Helens

Lava Canyon Trail

Where: Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Distance: 2.6 miles

Type: Out and back

Elevation gain: 900 feet

Difficulty: Moderate (for some steep sections and trail conditions)

Restrictions: Dogs and other animals not allowed.

Overview:

Lava Canyon, on the southeast flank of Mount St. Helens, is one of my favorite hikes in the Pacific Northwest. If you’re a waterfall lover (and who isn’t), Lava Canyon is a must see. The Muddy River crashes through the canyon here, cascading over and through a seemingly endless series of ledges and narrow chutes, one right after the other for about a mile and a half. It is truly spectacular.

The history of Lava Canyon begins about 3500 years ago when an eruption of Mount St. Helens sent a flow of lava down the old valley of the Muddy River, destroying the forest and filling the valley with molten rock. Over the intervening years, the Muddy River cut a new course through the lava flow, and the canyon gradually filled with sediment. Then came the 1980 eruption, which melted the summit glaciers and sent a huge lahar (volcanic mudflow) down the valley, destroying the rebuilt forest and scouring out the built-up sediment, exposing the remnants of the earlier lava flow. What was left is a steeply descending canyon with an almost continuous series of spectacular waterfalls and cascades. (For more information on the 1980 eruption, see my Mount St. Helens post).

Getting there:

To get to the canyon, take Washington State Route 503 east from the town of Woodland, 20 miles north of Portland on I-5. Continue east past the town of Cougar. Where SR 503 turns south toward Vancouver, continue straight on SR 503 Spur, which becomes US Forest Road 90. Just past Swift Dam, turn left onto Forest Road 83. The upper trailhead of the Lava Canyon Trail is at the end of FR 83. (The lower trailhead can be reached by FR 8322, which branches off from FR 83 shortly before you reach the upper trailhead. The most spectacular part of the canyon is the upper section, though, so if you haven’t already explored that, you’ll want to start at the top.)

Trailheads:

The upper trailhead has restrooms and water is available. Parking requires a Northwest Forest Pass. There are no facilities at the lower (Smith Creek) trailhead and no parking permit is required.

The hike:

The trail from the upper trailhead begins as an ADA accessible paved path with sections of wooden boardwalk. This section of the trail has a number of interpretive displays explaining the history and geology of the canyon. After about four tenths of a mile, a side trail leads to a bridge across the river. The paved path continues a few hundred yards to a waterfall overlook.

Below the overlook, the path is rock and dirt, steep in places. After another three tenths of a mile, you come to another side trail and a suspension bridge over the river that gives a bird’s eye view of the canyon and waterfalls. On the other side of the bridge is a connecting trail that takes you back to the upper bridge, making for a 1.4-mile loop. (Update: As of June 2023 the suspension bridge is closed. Check the National Forest Service’s Lava Canyon Trail web page for current information).

Below the suspension bridge the trail descends very steeply. This portion of the path is narrow, covered with loose rock in places, and there are sheer drops to the river below. Take extreme care on this section of the trail. There have been several fatalities here in recent years. Shortly after my wife and I did this hike in 2018 an 18-year-old man went missing in the canyon. It is presumed that he fell into the river and drowned. You can read the story here. Those that do brave the trail, though, will be rewarded with the most spectacular part of the canyon. Just take the warning signs seriously and be careful.

At about the 1.3-mile mark, the trail descends a 40-foot ladder to the base of the rock formation known as The Ship. Before 1980, sediment filled the canyon to the top of The Ship, to give you an idea of how much sediment was scoured out of the canyon. A short but steep side trail (and another ladder) leads to the top of The Ship.

(Below The Ship, the trail continues another 1.5 miles to the lower trailhead. The entire hike from upper to lower trailhead and back is about six miles and the elevation gain coming back is 1350 feet.)

Return from The Ship the way you came. Cross the suspension bridge if it is open and take the trail on the opposite bank to the upper bridge and re-cross the river. The two bridges both give you great views of the river and canyon below.

View of Spirit Lake on the hike to Harry’s Ridge

Other area attractions and activities:

There are many other hikes on Mount St. Helens that are worth doing, including Harry’s Ridge and Ape Cave. On the southern flank of the mountain, Swift Reservoir and Lake Merwin offer boating, camping, and fishing opportunities. Just east of Woodland, Cedar Creek Gristmill is a historic restored mill open to the public. And in Woodland, Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens is well worth a visit.

Originally posted in a different format September 29, 2018 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted March 23, 2021. Edited, updated and posted in this format June 29, 2023.

All photos ©Alan K. Lee

Chihuly Garden and Glass

By Alan K. Lee

I was completely blown away by Dale Chihuly’s incredible glass sculptures when I first visited Chihuly Garden and Glass in Seattle. Whenever I’m in Seattle I try to incorporate another visit and the impact of his work has never lessened. The photos here are of his works displayed at Chihuly Garden and Glass. Elsewhere in the Northwest, his work can also be seen at the Museum of Glass in Tacoma and the Bridge of Glass, which spans I-705 and connects downtown Tacoma and the Museum District with the Museum of Glass and the Thea Foss Waterfront.

Chihuly is a Pacific Northwest native. He was born in Tacoma in 1941, graduated from Woodrow Wilson High School in 1959, and attended the College of Puget Sound and the University of Washington, where he majored in interior design. He briefly studied art in Florence, Italy before returning to the U.S. and re-enrolling at Washington.

It was at the University of Washington that he began working with glass, first experimenting with incorporating shards of glass into tapestries. He began blowing glass in 1965. He earned a Bachelor of Arts degree in interior design from the University of Washington in 1965, a Master of Science degree in sculpture from the University of Wisconsin at Madison in 1967, and a Master of Fine Arts degree in sculpture from the Rhode Island School of Design in 1968.

He worked for a time at the Verini glass factory in Murano, Italy, and taught at the Haystack Mountain School of Crafts in Deer Island, Maine. In 1971 he co-founded the Pilchuk Glass School in Stanwood, Washington. He later taught at the Rhode Island School of Design for more than a decade.

In 1976 he was involved in a head-on car crash in England that left him blind in his left eye. And in 1979 he dislocated his right shoulder in a body surfing accident and could no longer hold a glass blowing pipe. That led him to hire others to do the actual glass blowing for him. He adopted a teamwork approach to glass sculpture that he first experienced in Murano that has allowed him to create works of a size that could not be done by a glass blower working alone.

Chihuly’s work is displayed in more than 200 museums, including a large permanent exhibit at the Oklahoma City Museum of Art, and is sold in galleries around the world.

Chihuly Garden and Glass opened in 2012 in the Seattle Center, next door to the Space Needle. It includes indoor and outdoor exhibits, a bookstore and gift shop, and a full service bar offering beer, wine, cocktails, and a limited food menu. Regular price adult admission to Chihuly Garden and Glass runs from $35 to $42.50. Discounts are available for seniors and children, and for late entry (after 6pm). Hours vary slightly with the seasons. The Seattle CityPass Card gives you entry to the Space Needle and other Seattle attractions as well as Chihuly Garden and Glass. Check the websites linked below for more information.

Useful links:

Chihuly Garden and Glass website Seattle Center and the Space Needle

Tacoma Museum District Museum of Glass website

Seattle CityPass Card

Originally posted July 3, 2018. Most recently updated October 3, 2025

All photos by and the property of the author.

Clear Lake Loop Trail

Clear lake Loop Trail

Where: Upper McKenzie River Valley, Willamette National Forest, Oregon

Distance: 5.0 miles

Elevation gain: Minimal

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (for rough sections of the trail through the lava flows)

Overview:

Clear Lake is one of the clearest (as the name would suggest), cleanest, coldest, and most beautiful lakes in the Cascade Range. It’s also the headwaters of the spectacularly beautiful McKenzie River. This hike takes you through the forest and lava fields around the lake, with great views of the lake from all sides.

Note that the trail along the west side of the lake may be closed periodically to protect bald eagle nesting sites. Call the McKenzie River Ranger Station at 541-822-7254 for more information. (The Ranger District’s website wasn’t much help, and the link to their email didn’t work).

Map: Oregon Hikers

Getting there:

Clear Lake is located along Oregon Hwy 126 about 65 miles east of Eugene. From the Portland area, take I-5 south to exit 253, then travel east on Ore Hwy 22 for 79 miles to the junction with US Hwy 20, go west for three miles, then turn south on Ore Hwy 126. The lake is about three miles south of the junction. From the Bend area, take US Hwy 20 west over Santiam Pass to the junction with Ore Hwy 126, then south to the lake.

Trailheads:

You can start this hike from either the day use area at Clear Lake Resort on the northwest side of the lake or Coldwater Cove Campground on the southeast side. The resort has a small cafe (open limited hours) and restrooms, and drinking water is available. There is no charge to park and a Northwest Forest Pass is not required. The Coldwater Cove trailhead is at the end of Forest Road 770, about one mile east of Hwy 126 just south of the lake. There are vault toilets at the campground and drinking water is available. Parking requires a Northwest Forest Pass. The trail description below starts and ends at the resort.

The hike:

If you’re starting the hike at the resort, park in the day use area at the resort (unless you are renting one of the cabins or the yurt) and walk north through the resort along the shore of the lake. In a few hundred yards you’ll see the trailhead on your right.

The first part of the trail takes you through the forest with filtered views of the lake. Several side trails lead down to the lake for better views.

The new and much improved Fish Lake Creek bridge, 2024

The trail continues north away from the lake, then crosses Ikenick Creek and doubles back to the lake before turning north again for about a half mile to a junction with the McKenzie River National Scenic Trail. Here the trail crosses Fish Lake Creek. (The Forest Service was in the process of replacing the old single log bridge when I was there in 2022 and the bridge was closed, but the creek was dry and you could scramble down the slope and climb back up the other side. The new bridge was in place when I did this hike again in the summer of 2024.

After crossing Fish Lake Creek, the trail turns south and runs along the eastern shore of the lake to the Great Spring. This was the source of the McKenzie River before Clear Lake was formed about 3000 years ago when a lava flow damned the river.

From the Great Spring the trail follows the east shore through the lava fields and forest. Parts of the trail are pretty rough. Good quality hiking boots are advised, although I did this hike in sneakers on my latest visit. But open toed sandals or flip flops are definitely not acceptable footwear on this section of the trail.

Clear Lake Lodge from the opposite shore

The section of trail immediately north of Coldwater Cove Campground is paved. South of the campground, the trail runs through the forest to the south end of the lake where you’ll come to a trail junction. Turn right to return to the resort.

Clear Lake outlet and the beginning of the McKenzie River

The trail crosses the lake’s outfall on a bridge that provides good views south to the beginning of the McKenzie River and north across the lake. Across the bridge, the trail turns north through the forest along the west shore of the lake. There is one good side trail that will take you to the lakeshore, but the main trail gives only limited views of the lake before you return to the resort where you started.

Other area attractions and activities:

There are too many other hikes in the area to list all of them, but two of the best are the four mile out and back hike to the Blue Pool on the McKenzie River, and the 2.6-mile McKenzie Waterfalls Loop that takes you past both Sahalie and Koosah Falls on the McKenzie. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses Santiam Pass northeast of Clear Lake giving hikers access to trails in both the Mount Jefferson Wilderness to the north and the Mount Washington Wilderness to the south.

Fish Lake, a few miles north of Clear Lake, is definitely worth a visit. The lake dries up completely in the summer and becomes a lush, green meadow, even in late summer when the surrounding forest is bone dry. The 19th century Santiam Wagon Road crossed the Cascades here, and there was a Forest Service guard station here in the first half of the 20th century. Several of the Forest Service buildings and historic homesteads have been preserved and the area is now a National Historic Site.

Thermal pool at Belknap Hot Springs. Photo from Tripadvisor website.

One of the many hot springs in the Cascade Range is Belknap Hot Springs, located about 15 miles south of Clear Lake. The hot springs are at Belknap Hot Springs Lodge and Gardens. Day use visitors can soak in one of the hot springs pools for a $10/hr fee.

American Dipper. Photo by Joan E. Newman

Originally posted June 22, 2023. Updated September 7, 2024.

All photos ©Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Mount St. Helens

The 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens was one of the most significant natural disasters in U.S. history. Everyone knows about the eruption, but a little history is in order here, I think.

Mount St. Helens had been dormant for 123 years until it awoke in March 1980. On March 15th a series of small, shallow earthquakes were recorded, centered below the summit of the mountain. In the days that followed, more quakes occurred, the largest a magnitude 4.2 quake on March 20th.

Mount St. Helens, May 17, 1980. Photo by Harry Glicken, USGS/CVO. Sourced from Wikimedia Commons.

Between March 25th and 27th 174 earthquakes greater than magnitude 2.6 were recorded, the largest a magnitude 5.1 quake on the 27th. The first eruption, also on the 27th, opened a new summit crater. The north flank of the mountain also began bulging outward, with the bulge growing 5-6 feet per day. More eruptions occurred over the next week few weeks. By April 7th the new crater measured 1700 by 2300 feet and was 500 feet deep. By mid-May the north side of the mountain had moved outward by 400 feet and the summit area had begun to collapse.

At 8:32 a.m. on May 18, 1980 a magnitude 5.1 earthquake caused the north flank of the mountain to collapse in the largest landslide ever recorded. A few seconds later the mountain erupted in a lateral blast that devastated an area as far as 20 miles from the summit and felled 230 square miles of forest. The blast superheated the waters of Spirit Lake instantly, causing a huge secondary steam explosion. This secondary explosion was heard as far away as San Francisco (but, interestingly, was not heard in the Portland area).

Mount St. Helens from Johnston Ridge, August 2018

The eruption sent an ash cloud 12 miles into the sky. In the Yakima Valley, northeast of the mountain, the ash cloud completely blocked the sun and noon was as dark as midnight. Ash fell as far away as Minnesota. The energy released by the eruption was estimated to be equivalent to 24 megatons of TNT, more than 1400 times the energy released by the atomic bomb that destroyed Hiroshima in World War II.

Pumice Plain between Johnston Ridge and the crater

At least 55 people were killed in the eruption. The official total is listed as 57, but two people on the list who were reported missing after the eruption may not have been in the blast zone that day, and three others who are not on the official list may have been. Two of the most prominent people that died that day were Harry R. Truman and David A. Johnston.

Eighty-three year old Harry Truman owned Mount St. Helens Lodge on the shore of Spirit Lake. He had lived there for more than 50 years and refused to leave when the area was evacuated. He was a colorful, locally well known character who had lived an eventful life and had become something of a celebrity in the months leading up to the eruption. He was buried by the initial landslide.

David Johnston was a highly respected geologist and volcanologist. He was camping near where the Johnston Ridge Observatory is now located. He was the first to report the eruption. “Vancouver! Vancouver! This is it!” he radioed the USGS office in Vancouver, Washington just before he was hit by the blast.

Also killed in the eruption were photographers Reid Blackburn and Robert Landsburg. Blackburn’s body was found in his car at Coldwater Camp four days after the eruption. His camera was found later, but the film was not salvageable. Landsburg’s body was found seventeen days after the eruption. His camera was found inside his backpack under his body. The film in his camera survived and the photos he took before the ash cloud engulfed him provided some of the most dramatic and scientifically valuable photos of the eruption.

Thirty-eight years after the eruption, when these photos were taken, the area between the new crater and Johnston Ridge still looked much like it did when I first visited the area some 25 years before. Trees were beginning to regrow on the north side of the ridge, though, and shrubs and wildflowers were abundant. The land is recovering, but it will be generations, perhaps centuries, before the forest returns to anything like it was before the eruption.

The Johnston Ridge Observatory is a good place to begin an exploration of Mount St. Helens. At the observatory you can view interpretive displays and videos, and get information about the mountain, the eruption, and area hiking trails. The observatory is located at the end of the Spirit Lake Highway (WA 504). To get there from the Seattle area, travel south on I-5 and take WA 505 (Exit 63) through the town of Toledo to the junction with WA 504. From Portland, take Exit 49 off I-5 at Castle Rock. Johnston Ridge is approximately 50 miles east of I-5. There is an $8 parking/entry fee, payable at the observatory.

Wildflowers along the Boundary Trail on Johnston Ridge

One of the best hikes on the mountain is the trail to Harry’s Ridge, which begins at the Johnston Ridge Observatory. Total out and back mileage is about eight miles and total elevation gain is about 1000 feet. Check out my Harry’s Ridge Hike post for a more detailed description of the hike. You can also hike into the heart of the blast zone between Johnston Ridge and the crater. Check the Johnston Ridge Observatory website, linked above, for current information.

Another one of my favorite Mount St. Helens hikes is the Lava Canyon Trail on the southeast side of the mountain. Distances and elevation gains vary depending on how far down (or up) the canyon you go. You don’t have to go far down the trail from the upper trailhead to see some of the most spectacular waterfalls in the Pacific Northwest, though. The initial section of the trail is ADA accessible and everyone can view some of the best waterfalls. Again, check my blog post on Lava Canyon for more details.

Both the Harry’s Ridge and Lava Canyon hikes are among the best in the Northwest. They are very different, but both are incredibly beautiful and relatively easy hikes, and both can be done in a single weekend. But even if you’re not a hiker, visiting the Johnston Ridge Observatory and taking the short ADA accessible trail at Lava Canyon are more than worthwhile for everyone. And anyone who has not explored the mountain should do so at some point. It’s an unforgettable experience.

Originally posted March 27, 2021 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted June 19, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Oregon Country Fair 2023

The Oregon Country Fair started in 1969 as a benefit for an alternative school. Originally called the Renaissance Fair, it was essentially a bunch of hippies getting together to sing, dance, smoke pot, party, and raise money for a school. And to some extent it still is, except that today it is strictly a drug and alcohol-free event. I had not been to the fair in many years, but returned in 2018, curious to see what it had become.

So, just what is the Oregon Country Fair today? Well, it’s a three-day festival and gathering held every July near the town of Veneta, Oregon, about 15 miles west of Eugene. It’s run by a non-profit organization that supports a variety of other non-profits providing medical, housing, and educational services, and also provides support for the arts and the environment. According to its website, the OCF “has a rich and varied history of alternative arts and performance promotion, educational opportunities, land stewardship and philanthropy,” and “creates events and experiences that nourish the spirit, explore living artfully and authentically on earth, and transform culture in magical, joyous and healthy ways.” You can make what you will of that. But at its heart it’s still a party. A huge three-day party.

The OCF is a remnant of the 1960s counterculture, for sure, but it is anything but stuck in the 60s. Over its 54-year history the Oregon Country Fair has not only survived but grown and thrived. It’s hard to describe just how big this thing has become. The schedule of events for the 2018 fair listed 120 performances on the first day, spread over 19 stages. There are dozens of musical acts, dancers, comedy acts, vaudeville, circus acts, and more than a dozen groups of performers that wander the miles of paths of the fairgrounds. And that’s just the entertainment.

There are also more than 300 artisans selling hand crafted goods – pottery, jewelry, leatherworks, glassworks, furniture and other woodworks, sculptures, paintings, photography, clothing, and you name it. There are also dozens of workshops, classes, and “gatherings,” and almost ninety food booths. There is a childcare center, three first aid stations, a cell phone charging station, drinking water bottle filling stations, showers, and five ATMs.

Every year, the Oregon Country Fair draws tens of thousands of people from all over the Northwest and beyond (I saw one car in the parking lot with Maine license plates). On my last visit, the paid attendance for the day was 15,000. Add in the hundreds of OCF staff, and all the artisans, performers, food booth staffers, and other workers, and you have a not so small city.

This is just a colossal event, one that is worth attending at least once in your life just to take in the sheer magnitude of it. In 2018 my wife had other commitments and couldn’t come, but I enjoyed the fair enough to return the following year and bring her with me. We both enjoyed the 2019 event, but the Covid-19 pandemic derailed the fair in 2020 and 2021. It resumed in 2022 as a slightly smaller event but for 2023 it looks to be back to what it was before the pandemic, and my wife and I may be back again this year to take in the energy and inspired lunacy of this thing one more time.

The 2023 Oregon Country Fair will be held from Friday July 9^th through Sunday July 11^th. Tickets to this year’s fair can be purchased through the OCF website. Single day tickets cost $45 for Friday and Saturday and $40 for Sunday. Seniors (65+) and the alter-abled receive a $5 discount. Children under 13 are free.

Tickets purchased prior to June 23^rd will be mailed to the purchaser. Tickets purchased after June 23^rd can be picked up at the Will Call tent near the fair entrance. Day of event ticket purchases can be made at McDonalds Theater in downtown Eugene or at the northwest parking lot of Valley River Center. Tickets will not be sold at the fairgrounds. Three-day tickets are already sold out.

To get to the fairgrounds from Eugene, take Ore Hwy 126 (West 11^th St) west through Veneta. The entrance to the fairgrounds is on Hwy 126 1.6 miles west of Territorial Highway in Veneta. Coming from north of Eugene, take Interstate 5 or US Hwy 99 south to the Randy Pape Beltline Hwy (exit 195 off I-5), then west to Hwy 126. Follow Hwy 126 west through Veneta. From the south take I-5 north to exit 189, then follow 30^th Avenue (it will become Amazon Parkway) west then north to West 11^th (Hwy 126) and proceed as above.

Parking is $15 per day per vehicle and can be purchased when buying tickets. Free shuttle buses from either downtown Eugene or Valley River Center will be available but service may be limited by post-pandemic staffing shortages. Check the Lane Transit District website for more information.

Originally posted July 17, 2018 by Alan K. Lee. Edited and updated by the author June 8, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Hoyt Arboretum Hike

Hoyt Arboretum

Where: Washington Park, Portland, Oregon

Distance: 2.4 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: Approx. 600 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map: Hoyt Arboretum Map

Overview:

Hoyt Arboretum was created in 1928 to help conserve endangered species and educate the public about the need to do so. Over its 95 years of existence, more than 6000 trees and plants representing more than 2000 species and varieties from around the world have been planted in the arboretum, many of them threatened or endangered. One of the things that makes the arboretum special, in my opinion, is that it has the look and feel of a natural forest, not a botanical garden, and even though many of the trees and plants are not native to the Pacific Northwest, they are incorporated into the forest and never seem out of place.

Hoyt Arboretum offers a multitude of possible hikes over its 189 acres and 12 miles of trails. The hike described here passes through many of the arboretum’s tree collections and is a good introduction to the arboretum for anyone that has not visited previously. It also incorporates several short sections of the iconic Wildwood Trail that meanders for 30 miles through Washington and Forest Parks. The trail junctions in the arboretum are well signed, so it would be hard to get lost, but the sheer number of intersecting trails can be confusing. I recommend carrying a map of the trail system whenever you’re hiking in the arboretum. Download and print the arboretum map linked above or pick up a free map and brochure at the visitor center. The brochure provides some interesting information and has a larger and more easily read map than the download.

Getting there:

The Visitor Center is located at 4000 Fairview Boulevard SW, Portland, Oregon 97221. It can be reached by car via West Burnside Street or US Hwy 26. Parking at the visitor center costs $2 per hour (free before 9:30 am) or $8 per day. There are other free parking areas (including along Fairview Blvd in front of the visitor center) that are shown on the map, but most are small and are often full. Public transit options include TriMet bus line #63 (with a stop at the Visitor Center) and the MAX light rail red and blue lines. The Washington Park Station on the light rail lines is 200 feet below ground with an elevator to the surface entrance located between the Oregon Zoo and the World Forestry Center. And there is a free shuttle bus that runs through Washington Park and makes stops at the zoo, Hoyt Arboretum, and the Japanese Garden.

Trailheads:

There are multiple trailheads that can be used to access the hike described here, but the Hoyt Arboretum Visitor Center is a logical starting point and the one used for this description. The Visitor Center includes a small gift shop and public restrooms.

The hike:

This hike starts at the opposite end of the parking lot from the Visitor Center. Look for the paved Overlook Trail to the left. Follow the paved path to the first trail junction and turn left onto the gravel Wildwood Trail. At the next trail junction turn left onto the Magnolia Trail, which switchbacks down to and across Upper Cascade Drive and through the arboretum’s Magnolia Collection.

Just before reaching Cascade Drive, turn right onto the Beech Trail and cross the road into the Winter Garden. Just beyond the Winter Garden, turn left onto another section of the Wildwood Trail and follow it as it climbs up to Fairview Blvd. Across the road the trail descends through the forest to the Redwood Deck, which provides a good view into the arboretum’s Redwood Collection.

Continue on the Wildwood Trail past the junction with the Redwood Trail, descending to Johnson Creek. Stay on the Wildwood Trail, passing the junction with the Creek Trail, as it climbs up the slope west of the creek. At the next junction, turn left onto the connector trail that takes you to Fisher Lane.

Cross Fisher Lane onto the White Pine Trail, which gradually climbs away from the road to a ridge, where it turns south and runs along the western edge of the arboretum for about three quarters of a mile, through the White Pine and Hemlock Collections, to Fairview Blvd where it ends.

Cross Fairview Blvd and take the connector trail to the right, which descends to a junction with another section of the Wildwood Trail. Turn left onto Wildwood and follow it, crossing Knights Blvd. Just before reaching a water reservoir, turn left onto a connector trail that takes you to the Holly Trail. Follow the Holly Trail down a set of stone steps to the parking lot where the hike started.

Other area attractions and activities:

Washington Park is home to the Oregon Zoo, the World Forestry Center, the Portland Japanese Garden, the Oregon Vietnam Veterans Memorial, and the International Rose Test Garden, in addition to Hoyt Arboretum.

Posted June 3, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

Sitka, Alaska

by Alan K. Lee

Sitka, Alaska is located on a protected harbor on the western shore of stunningly beautiful Baranof Island in Southeast Alaska. To the west of the city many small islands dot Sitka Sound, and Mt. Edgecumbe, a dormant volcanic cone, rises 3200′ above the sound on Kruzof Island. To the north and east, Harbor Mountain and Mount Verstovia tower over the city, forming a dramatic backdrop.

My most recent visit to Sitka came in 2018 when my wife and I flew there to visit a friend of hers who had recently moved back to Sitka after having lived in Portland for many years. It had been more than twenty years since we had last visited, but not a lot had changed in those two decades. The town was a little bigger, maybe a little more touristy, but still a low key, relaxed place where people don’t lock their car, and usually leave the keys in it without fear of it being stolen.

Southeast Alaska is not traditionally considered part of the Pacific Northwest, but they are close geographically, are similar ecologically, and have closely linked cultures and histories, so I’m going to stretch the definition of the Pacific Northwest a little and include Sitka in the Northwest Destinations category here.

The weather in Southeast Alaska is always chancy. On our first visit, there were low clouds blocking views of the surrounding mountains the whole time we were in Sitka, and the only sunshine we saw on our two week trip was in Ketchikan on the day we flew in and again on the day we flew out. But this time we had sunshine and blue skies for most of our four days in Sitka.

Sitka is an interesting and unique blend of Native American, Russian, and American cultures. The Tlingit people have inhabited the area for thousands of years. The name Sitka derives from the Tlingit name for the area, Shee Atika. In the 1740s Russians began exploring the area, and in 1799 Fort St. Michael was established at the present site of Sitka. The Tlingits burned down the fort in 1802, but the Russians returned two years later and forced the Tlingits out of the area. The Russian community of New Archangel, which became Sitka when the United States purchased Alaska from Russia in 1867, was founded in 1804 on the site of the destroyed Fort St. Michael. In the early 1820s some of the Tlingit people returned to the area, and there is still a Tlingit community in Sitka today. The Russian influence is also still present in modern Sitka. St. Michael’s Cathedral is an active Russian Orthodox church.

In town, the Sitka National Historical Park (locally known as Totem Park) is a must see, as are the Alaska Raptor Center, St. Michael’s Cathedral (built between 1844 and 1848), the Russian Bishop’s House (1842), and the Sitka Historic Museum. The Sheldon Jackson Museum, the Sitka Sound Science Center, the Lutheran Cemetery, and the Russian Cemetery are also definitely worth visiting. Sitka is a very walkable city, and all of the above are within easy walking distance of the city center. It’s also a very bike friendly city, and renting a bicycle is a good way to get around town. A few miles outside of town, the Fortress of the Bear, a non-profit refuge for orphaned cubs, offers close up views of brown bears, if you are so inclined.

If you’re a fisherman, Sitka offers world class salmon and halibut fishing in the offshore waters. The Sitka Salmon Derby is held every May and June. The inland streams and lakes also offer quality fly fishing opportunities. For hikers, there are several trails that begin in Sitka, from the relatively flat Indian River Trail to the much steeper Verstovia Mountain Trail and Gavin Hill/Harbor Mountain Trail. Other hiking trails begin north and south of the city. Kayaks and boats can be rented in the city, and Sitka Sound looks to be a kayaker’s paradise.

Flightseeing, ATV tours, hiking tours, city walking tours, car tours, kayak tours, and wildlife boat tours are all available in Sitka. On our trip, we took a sightseeing tour of Sitka Sound that was nothing short of incredible. I would highly encourage anyone who is planning a visit to find the time to do the same. We saw dozens of sea otters up close, probably fifty or more bald eagles, many other seabirds, seals, dolphins, humpback whales, and a pod of orcas, all within the space of about three hours.

Sitka is also a very arts oriented town. In addition to numerous galleries in the city, the Sitka Jazz Festival is held every February, the Sitka Summer Music Festival is held in June or July, and the Sitka Fine Arts Camp and Arts & Science Festival for young artists is also held every summer. Other festivals include the Sitka Seafood Festival in August, The Alaska Day Festival (celebrating the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the United States) in October and the Sitka Whalefest in November.

Sitka, despite its remote location, is relatively easy to get to. Alaska Air has non-stop flights daily from both Portland and Seattle, making it possible to visit Sitka on a long weekend. If you have more time, Sitka is a stop on most Alaska cruises. And Sitka can also be reached by ferry, which is how my wife and I traveled there on our first visit. Check the Alaska Marine Highway website for schedules, fares, and other information. Other useful websites include Visit Sitka , Travel Alaska , Welcome To Sitka , and Trip Advisor.

On our 2018 trip to Sitka we also visited Ketchikan and Juneau. The weather was so bad in Ketchikan that I took few photos and didn’t post anything from there. The weather was better in Juneau. Click here to view my post from Juneau.

Originally posted July 30, 2018. Most recently updated May 30, 2023.

Tryon Creek Hike

Where: Tryon Creek State Natural Area, Portland, Oregon

Distance: 2.4 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: 350 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map: Oregon State Parks

Overview:

Tryon Creek State Natural Area is a 658 acre preserve in southwest Portland that is much loved and well used. The area had been logged between 1870 and 1960 to make railroad ties and provide fuel for a wood-fired iron smelter in nearby Lake Oswego. In the 1960s the area was slated for development, but a group of local residents created the Friends of Tryon Creek organization that successfully lobbied to protect the area. Tryon Creek State Park was created by the Oregon legislature and opened to the public in 1975. Friends of Tryon Creek continues to be an active participant in maintaining and managing the park. For more information on the park, go to their website or click here to view an earlier post on this site.

There are a myriad of loops and out-and- back hikes possible at Tryon Creek. The park has a total of 15 miles of trails, including a short all access paved trail, a paved bike path that runs the length of the park, all-use trails open to horses, and hiker-only trails. Dogs are permitted on leash. Bikes are not permitted, except on the designated bike path. The park is a day-use area only. Camping is prohibited.

All of the trails are well used, so you’re unlikely to find real solitude here, unless you come during really bad weather. But that doesn’t detract much from the park’s appeal. In general, the farther from the Nature Center that you get the fewer people that you’ll encounter. The southern and western parts of the park are the least used. The hike described here includes two of my favorite trails, the Big Fir and Lewis and Clark trails, but they’re also two of the most traveled trails in the park.

Getting there:

The main entrance to the park is located at 11321 Terwilliger Boulevard in southwest Portland. To get there by car, take I-5 south from Portland to the Terwillger Boulevard exit (#297). Cross back over the freeway on Terwilliger and follow it for 2.4 miles to the park’s main entrance. Public transport is available via Trimet bus lines 38 and 39.

Trailheads:

The primary trailheads and largest parking area in the park (by far) are located at the main entry on Terwilliger Boulevard, and this hike starts there. There are six other trailheads scattered around the perimeter of the park.

The hike:

The hike begins at the Nature Center, where you can pick up a free map if you haven’t printed out the Oregon State Parks map linked above, and get park information from the staff. The trails in the park are well signed, but there are so many intersecting trails that a map can be very helpful, especially if you’re new to the park.

From the Nature Center take the Old Main Trail south. This is a wide gravel path that also serves as a service road. In about a tenth of a mile turn right onto the Big Fir Trail.

This short trail (less than half a mile) winds through some of the largest Douglas fir trees in the park, along with many mature bigleaf maples, and descends toward Tryon Creek. It is, in my opinion, one of the prettiest trails in the park. Stay left at the junctions with the Center and Maple Ridge trails. The Big Fir Trail then rejoins the Old Main Trail.

Turn right onto the Old Main Trail and cross Tryon Creek on Obie’s Bridge at the 0.7-mile mark of the hike. This is the lowest point on this loop. Just beyond the bridge, turn right onto the West Horse Loop. This is a mixed use trail used by both hikers and equestrians (hikers are required to give way to horses). In a tenth of a mile, turn right onto the hiker-only Middle Creek Trail, which follows Tryon Creek to High Bridge at the one-mile mark of the hike.

Turn left onto the Lewis and Clark Trail at the junction just beyond High Bridge. This trail recently reopened after being closed for several years after the original Terry Reilly Memorial Bridge washed out in a flood. The Lewis and Clark Trail might be my favorite trail in the whole park. It has a few steep sections and can be slippery when wet, but it is also one of the wildest trails in the park. The trail winds through the second-growth Douglas fir and bigleaf maple forest with a typical temperate rainforest understory of ferns, shrubs, and vine maple. You’ll cross a tributary of Tryon Creek on the new, higher, and much sturdier Terry Reilly Bridge.

From the bridge the trail climbs through the forest. This is a prime location for trilliums, the three petal white to purple flowers that are the signature plant of the park. On my latest hike here the trilliums were past their prime but there were a few still in bloom.

Three tenths of a mile from the Terry Reilly Bridge you’ll see a short connector trail between the Lewis and Clark Trail and the North Horse Loop. Stay left on the the Lewis and Clark Trail for another couple of hundred yards. This is the highest point of the hike. At the junction, turn south (right). This will bring you to another junction with the North Horse Loop.

At the junction turn left onto the North Horse Loop and follow the mixed use trail for four tenths of a mile to another junction. Stay left there, then right at the next junction at the 2.0-mile mark of the hike. Continue on the North Horse Loop for another quarter-mile, then take a short connector trail to your right to a junction with the Maple Ridge Trail. Turn left there and return to the Nature Center.

Other area attractions and activities:

Tryon Creek is only a few miles from downtown Portland, where you’ll find one of my favorite outdoor spaces in Portland, the Lan Su Chinese Garden, a true urban oasis in the middle of the city. Not far from downtown, in Washington Park, is another of my favorite places, the Portland Japanese Garden. And not far from that, also in Washington Park, is Hoyt Arboretum. Those three places, easily visited in a single day, make for a triumvirate of incredibly beautiful places for the outdoor enthusiast to relish the best of what Portland has to offer.

Posted May 18, 2023 by Alan K. Lee.

God’s Thumb Hike

Where: Oregon Coast

Type: Out and back

Distance: 4.5 miles

Elevation gain: 1100 feet

Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Map: Oregon Hikers website

Overview:

God’s Thumb is a conical basalt headland rising out of the sea like a giant thumb just north of Lincoln City, Oregon. I first laid eyes on God’s Thumb in the 1980s, from the open grassland on the summit of Cascade Head. From there the Salmon River Estuary is immediately below you and just beyond is the town of Lincoln City. In between, there is a rocky headland – God’s Thumb. There’s also an isolated cove and a nice beach visible from Cascade Head. I wondered how you could get there. When I inquired about the area, I was disappointed to find out that you couldn’t. Even though God’s Thumb was (and is) part of the Siuslaw National Forest, there was no public access to it. The only ways to get there crossed private property that were not open to the public.

The God’s Thumb hike remained closed to the public until about a decade ago. Although people occasionally trespassed across private property to get to it, God’s Thumb remained largely unknown. But in 2013 Lincoln City purchased about 500 acres of property that was the site of a failed subdivision and negotiated an easement with the owner of the neighboring property, making God’s Thumb legally accessible to the public for the first time.

Trailhead:

The God’s Thumb hike starts just north of Lincoln City. Coming from Lincoln City, go north on Hwy 101, past the turn to Road’s End and Chinook Winds Casino, and turn left onto NE Devil’s Lake Boulevard at the next traffic signal. The trailhead is on your left just before the cul de sac at the end of the road.

The hike:

From the parking area at the trailhead, the trail wanders through the woods for about a quarter mile before crossing Logan Creek on a bridge. On the other side of the creek you’ll come to Sal La Sea Drive. You’ll note that there is a small parking lot there. Turn right and walk up Sal La Sea Drive another quarter mile and turn right onto Port Drive. You’ll see a gate ahead. You’ll also note that there is parking for four or five cars at the end of Sal La Sea Drive. (See A few notes on parking, below). Walk around the gate and follow an old gravel road straight up the hill. In about a quarter of a mile you’ll come to a junction. Turn left and walk out to The Knoll.

You don’t want to skip this because the view here is spectacular. The Pacific Ocean is spread out before you in all its glory. The Road’s End section of Lincoln City is directly below you. Lincoln City stretches out before you, with Devil’s Lake to the east and Siletz Bay to the south. The view extends south to Cape Foulweather. You might want to park yourself on the grassy summit and just sit for a while. Apparently, the local herd of elk also like the view because they often bed down here at night.

When you’re done taking in the view from The Knoll, return to the main trail and continue north. This portion of the trail is on the easement granted to the city by the property owner. The trail takes you through a spruce and hemlock forest and across a small meadow. Parts of the trail are steep, but the elevation gain is modest, and most people won’t have any difficulty. You’ll soon come to a trail junction. Stay left to continue on to God’s Thumb. You’ll pass through more spruce, hemlock and alder forest, and across several grassy meadows before the trail swings to the west and comes to another trail junction. The trail to the right comes up from the private Camp Westwind on the Salmon River Estuary. Stay left at the junction and you’ll soon see God’s Thumb in front of you. Stop here and admire the view of The Thumb and the surrounding cliffs, the two coves and beaches on either side of The Thumb, and Cascade Head to the north.

The trail then drops steeply down the slope and across along a narrow ridge before climbing very steeply up the slope to the summit of God’s Thumb. This section can be tricky to navigate and can also be slippery if the trail is wet. Some people choose not to venture down and then up to the summit. But if you do, you’ll be rewarded with magnificent views in all directions. Even if you don’t, the views you do get make the hike well worthwhile.

When you’re done taking in the views, return the way you came. When you reach the second trail junction, before you get to The Knoll, you have the option of taking the trail to the left for an alternate, slightly longer route back to the end of Devil’s Lake Boulevard where you left your car. Check the Oregon Hikers website for a description of this trail and more information about the whole hike. If you don’t take the alternate route, venture out to The Knoll again. The view might be completely different if the fog has come in (or gone out).

A few notes on parking:

The two parking areas along Sal La Sea Drive that I mentioned are both okay to park in (legally) if you want to shorten your hike a little. But they’re not officially sanctioned because they fill up quickly and many people have parked on residential streets close by when they are full, to the ire of the local residents. Please do not park on any residential street. The Devil’s Lake trailhead was developed to give hikers an additional parking area and lessen the amount of people parking where they shouldn’t. If all of the parking areas mentioned are full, you can park at Road’s End State Recreational Area on Logan Road and walk up Sal La Sea Drive to the Port Drive trailhead. That makes the round-trip hike only about half a mile longer than starting at the Devil’s Lake Boulevard trailhead. And under no circumstances should you use the shorter trail from the end of Logan Road to get to God’s Thumb. The property owner has not granted public access across their property. They haven’t fenced it off, but please respect their property rights. And besides, there is no public parking anywhere on Logan Road other than at Road’s End State Recreation Area, so you risk having your vehicle towed if you park illegally.

Other area hikes and other attractions:

Other worthwhile hikes in the Lincoln City area include the Nature Conservancy’s Cascade Head Preserve, the Hartz Cove Trail on the north side of Cascade Head, and the Drift Creek Falls Trail in the Coast Range foothills to the east. More on those in later posts. And farther south, the Beaver Creek State Natural Area offers a nice, quiet, and peaceful hike that not many people know about.

And the central coast from Lincoln City to Newport has numerous other attractions, including the Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport, the charming (but increasingly touristy) town of Depoe Bay, Chinook Winds Casino in Lincoln City, and numerous state parks and waysides.

Originally posted (in a slightly different format) May 19, 2021 by Alan K. Lee. Edited, reformatted, and re-posted May 3, 2023.

Victoria, British Columbia

by Alan K. Lee

Victoria, British Columbia has long been my favorite Pacific Northwest city. It has always been the most British city in British Columbia, but it also has a distinctly Pacific Northwest/Canadian vibe. The city certainly reflects its British heritage, but it has also been influenced by the Native American/First Nations cultures that preceded the British and exhibits its own unique version of Pacific Northwestern cross-border culture. Think British charm without the stiff upper lip formality of Old England.

Victoria’s British charm may have been diluted a little over the years as it has grown and become a more cosmopolitan city, but it retains enough of that charm that so captivated me the first time I visited that I keep coming back. My wife and I have traveled to Victoria many times, most recently in September 2024.

The following is an updated and slightly edited version of a 2018 post on this site.

The Royal British Columbia Museum will probably always be my first choice of places to visit in Victoria. Too many museums are stodgy and boring, but the Royal BC has always been immersive and captivating. It’s expansive enough and interesting enough that you’ll probably spend at least a couple of hours there, and spending half a day there is not out of the question.

If you’re visiting Victoria, the Royal BC Museum should be near the top of your must see list. If you’re not as captivated by it as I am, and don’t want to spend a half a day, or more, there, there are half a dozen other places worth visiting in close proximity. The British Columbia Parliament buildings are next door. On the other side, Thunderbird Park has a collection of totem poles and several historic structures. The Empress Hotel (officially the Fairmont Empress) is a block away. And Beacon Hill Park is just a few blocks to the south. Then there is the Victoria Bug Zoo, just north of the Empress. I would probably enjoy seeing that, but I don’t think there’s any way I could drag my wife there.

The BC Parliament Buildings and grounds are open to the public. Free guided tours of the buildings lasting about 40 minutes are conducted daily, Mon-Fri. You can also take a self-guided tour, and tour books are available in a variety of languages. Self-guided tours are also available daily, Mon-Fri.. The grounds are free and open to the public at all times. For more information, click here.

Thunderbird Park, next door to the Royal BC Museum, is a nice place to relax in the harbor area. It has a nice collection of native totem poles, and three historic structures: the Mungo Martin House, built by native carver Chief Mungo Martin in 1953; the Helmcken House, built by Dr. John Helmcken in 1852; and St. Anne’s Schoolhouse, built in 1844.

Beacon Hill Park, stretching from a block south of Thunderbird Park to the shore of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, is a beautiful 62-acre parcel of land dedicated as a city park in 1882. It is home to a totem pole carved by Chief Mungo Martin, David Martin, and Henry Hunt that was the world’s tallest (160 feet) when it was erected in 1956. It is still billed as the world’s tallest free standing totem pole. Park facilities include hiking trails, including a trail along the shore of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, a petting zoo (officially the Beacon Hill Children’s Farm), a wading pool, water fountains, picnic areas, sports fields and playgrounds, and a band pavilion.

The harbor front has a number of restaurants and hotels, the most famous of which, by far, is the Empress Hotel. Built in 1908 by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the Chateauesque style similar to other CPR hotels such as the Banff Springs Hotel and Chateau Lake Louise, the Empress was designated as a National Historic Site of Canada in 1981.

Pickle Boats in front of the Empress Hotel

The Inner Harbor is a busy place, and if you like to people watch, the harbor front is the place go. You can also book whale watching trips, seaplane flights, and carriage rides at the harbor front. Small water taxis, called pickle boats, are also available to take you to various waterfront locations, including many of the waterfront hotels and restaurants. Harbor tours are also available. And if you’re there on a Sunday or Monday morning in the summer, you might catch a group of these little, very maneuverable boats putting on a water ballet, with the boats’ maneuvers choreographed to music broadcast from the shore. It’s fascinating and guaranteed to put a smile on your face. Check the water taxi website for more information and schedules.

Craigdarroch Castle (sourced from Wikipedia Commons and edited by the author)

There is much more to Victoria than what can be found near the harbor front, of course. Tour Craigdarroch Castle, an ornate Victorian mansion located a mile east of the inner harbor area, and Government House, just a few blocks to the south. Take in a performance at the Royal Theatre, on Broughton St, a few blocks north and east of the Empress. Or relax in one of the area’s other parks, such as Saxe Point and McAulay Point in Esquimalt, Uplands Park in Oak Bay, or Gorge Park on the Gorge Waterway.

The Emily Carr House, pictured above, is another place worth visiting. Emily Carr (1871-1945) was a renowned artist, writer, and advocate for social justice.

Eating and drinking spots are abundant in downtown Victoria. Afternoon Tea at the Empress is one of Victoria’s most iconic experiences, and high on the list of Victoria’s premier attractions. If the cost of high tea at the Empress (currently 110 Canadian dollars, approx. 80 US dollars, per person) is too rich for your blood, other slightly less expensive (and sometimes more highly rated) tea services can be found at the Tea House at Abkhazi Garden, White Heather Tea Room, and Pendray Inn and Tea House (formerly known as the Gatsby Mansion).

If a pint is more to your liking than a cuppa, there are many quality pubs near the Inner Harbor. Try Spinnakers Gastro Pub, across the Johnson Street Bridge in the Outer Harbor area. On Government Street, a few blocks north of the Empress you’ll find Bard and Banker, The Churchill, Garrick’s Head Pub, and Irish Times Pub, all rated highly and all within a block and a half of each other.

For an upscale dinner in the Inner Harbor area, I can personally recommend Nourish Kitchen and Cafe, a “vegetable forward” (their description) farm fresh restaurant in a renovated Victorian house about six blocks west of the Parliament Buildings in the James Bay section of Victoria. Il Terazzo, Brasserie L’Ecole, and Il Covo Trattoria also get rave reviews. For breakfast, try John’s Place (eight different versions of Eggs Benedict), or Jam (popular and crowded, but well worth it).

Outside of Victoria, Butchart Gardens is one of the Northwest’s and Canada’s most visited sites. Victoria is, of course, the gateway to the rest of Vancouver Island and its myriad attractions. It is also one of the gateways to the Gulf Islands, one of my favorite places in the Northwest.

If you haven’t experienced Victoria yet, go! You won’t regret it.

Originally posted 11-15-18. Most recent update 11-21-24.

Bayocean Peninsula Hike

By Alan K. Lee

Bayocean Peninsula Hike

Where: Tillamook County, Northern Oregon Coast

Type: Out and back beach walk or loop hike

Distance: 3.6- or 7.7-mile loop hikes or out and back hikes up to 8.2 miles

Elevation gain: Minimal

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (depending on length)

Map: Google Maps

Guidebooks:

100 Hikes: Oregon Coast by William L. Sullivan

120 Hikes on the Oregon Coast by Bonnie Henderson

Oregon’s Best Coastal Beaches by Dick Trout

Oregon Coast Hikes by Paul M. Williams

Overview:

Bayocean Peninsula separates Tillamook Bay from the Pacific Ocean. The peninsula runs from the mouth of the bay south for five miles to Cape Meares. I’ll describe two loop hikes that include a beach walk and a return on the bay side, but out and back hikes on the beach or the bay side of the peninsula are also options here.

Bayocean Peninsula was once home to the resort community of Bay Ocean Park. A century ago the town had a large hotel, what was billed as the largest natatorium (indoor swimming pool) on the west coast and 2000 residents. But the ocean reclaimed all of it. Today, nothing is left of the town. See my Bayocean Peninsula post for more information.

The peninsula is now an undeveloped county park. There has never been a campground, but in the past backcountry camping was permitted. That has changed, however, and overnight camping is no longer allowed.

Getting there:

From the town of Tillamook, drive west on Third Street (Ore Hwy 131). After crossing the Tillamook River bridge, turn right onto Bayocean Road toward Cape Meares. At milepost five, turn right onto the old south jetty haul road (sometimes called the Dike Road) and proceed to the trailhead parking area.

Trailhead:

The trailhead parking area has space for about 25 vehicles. There are chemical toilets but no water available. There is a $10 Tillamook County day use fee, payable at the trailhead. An alternative trailhead is the beach access in the town of Cape Meares about a mile west of the Dike Road turnoff. There is no parking fee, but also no facilities. Add about 1.8 miles to the distances listed above.

The hike:

From the northwest corner of the Dike Road parking area, follow the trail through the dunes to the beach and turn north. In a little over a mile, look for a sandy draw between forested bluffs. Here you have a choice. If you follow the draw inland, a trail will take you through the spruce and pine forest to the bay side of the peninsula. From there you can return to the trailhead on the old jetty haul road for a 3.6-mile loop hike.

Or, continue along the beach until you reach the south jetty at the mouth of Tillamook Bay. You’ll be rewarded with one of the least crowded beaches on the entire coast. You might have the beach to yourself even on summer weekends.

From the jetty you can return the way you came for 7.2 mile out and back beach walk or complete the 7.7-mile loop hike by following the jetty inland to the old jetty haul road and following it back to the trailhead. The road is rock and gravel with some sandy stretches. It runs along the bayshore, with good views of the shore and bay, with a couple of stretches in the pine and spruce forest of the peninsula interior.

Note: At the time of this update (April 2024), the north end of the haul road is closed to the public due to jetty construction work, so the longer loop is not possible. The construction work does not affect the beach or the Bay Ocean Park townsite.

Look for ducks and geese on the water and shorebirds along the water’s edge. This is one of the best birding areas for waterfowl on the coast.

Near the end of the hike look for a sign labeled Bayocean Townsite. Here a trail leads toward the beach to the old townsite. The trail loops south through what was then the bayfront (the whole peninsula has shifted a couple of hundred yards to the east and much of the old townsite is now under the waves), then returns to the haul road, where there is an interpretive display that tells the tale of the town and its demise. From there, return to the parking area. (If you started at the town of Cape Meares, hike from the Dike Road parking area through the dunes and return to Cape Meares on the beach.)

Other area attractions and activities:

The beach walk south to the base of the Cape Meares headland provides an up-close view of the ocean waves crashing against the rocky headland, and Cape Meares State Scenic Viewpoint, on top of the headland, provides spectacular ocean views both north and south, one of the best whale watching spots on the coast, a lighthouse dating to 1890, and the spectacular Octopus Tree, a many trunked Sitka Spruce.

Farther south, Cape Lookout offers more hiking options, including a unique hike to the tip of the cape, which extends two miles into the Pacific.

If you want to quench your thirst after your hike, stop at the Pelican Brewing pub on First Street in Tillamook or de Garde Brewing a block south at the corner of Second and Ivy. Tillamook is also home, of course, to the famous Tillamook Cheese Factory, one of the most visited tourist destinations in Oregon. And Tillamook is also home to Blue Heron French Cheese Company.

Originally posted April 26, 2023. Most recently updated April 18, 2024.