Oregon Archives - Pacific Northwest Explorer

Beaver Creek

Every year, hundreds of thousands of people visit the Oregon coast, lured by the spectacular scenery, the many miles of beaches, and the dozens of often charming and sometimes quirky small towns. The more popular places are crowded, often overcrowded, in the summer and fall, but if you know where to look you can find uncrowded, sometimes deserted, beaches, trails, and other attractions, even in the high season. Sometimes all you have to do is look east of Hwy 101. Beaver Creek is a prime example. It flows into the ocean at Ona Beach, located between Newport and Waldport on the central coast. Ona Beach is often crowded, but if you turn east off Hwy 101 at the Ono Beach access instead of west, you come immediately to a boat launch area on Beaver Creek. When I was last there, the boat launch parking lot was almost empty. The beach parking lot was full.

Before it reaches the ocean, Beaver Creek flows through a freshwater marsh that teems with wildlife. The marsh is critical habitat for Coho salmon, winter steelhead, and cutthroat trout. The creek and marsh are also home to beaver and river otter. Elk, deer, coyotes, black bears, and the occasional cougar also roam the marsh and adjacent upland areas. Beaver Creek is also prime birding territory. More than 75 species waterfowl and other birds inhabit the area. So, bring your binoculars and camera, and keep your eyes open.

Beaver Creek State Natural Area can be explored both by boat and by foot. Launch your canoe or kayak at the boat ramp adjacent to Hwy 101, or drive a mile east on North Beaver Creek Road to access the hiking trails. Even in mid-summer you’re likely to encounter few other people (they’re all at the beach). I have not paddled Beaver Creek, so I’ll leave a description of that for a future post, but I have hiked the area. There is a nice view from the top of Snaggy Point, but the main attraction here is the peaceful and quietly beautiful area that is largely unknown to the general populace and almost completely unknown to the hoards of out of state tourists.

The Beaver Creek visitor center, 1.2 miles east of Hwy 101 on North Beaver Creek Road, would normally be a good first stop to acquaint yourself with the area. If it’s open, you can pick up an informational brochure and map of the trail system there. The map and brochure can also be downloaded from the Beaver Creek State Natural Area website (linked above). There is also a small parking area a few hundred yards east of the visitor center that may have the map and brochure if the visitor center is closed. You can also find a checklist of the birds found at Beaver Creek on the website.

The Beaver Creek Loop Trail is an easy, mostly flat trail that circles the upland area across the marsh from the visitor center. There are also connecting trails that take you to high points with some open views. The loop trail is about three miles long and takes you through a mixed forest of second growth conifer and alder forest. You can hike the loop in an hour, but give yourself 2-3 hours (or more) to linger and enjoy the peace and quiet. Click on the link above for a detailed description of the loop trail hike.

There are many reasons to visit the central Oregon coast. Beaver Creek by itself might not be a destination that warrants the trip, but if you’re a hiker, kayaker, or birder, or just want some peace and quiet away from other tourists, it makes for a pleasant side trip. And you might find that it’s a place you return to whenever you’re in the area. I know I’ll be back soon.

There are plenty of other places on the central Oregon coast to visit that can easily be paired with a trip to Beaver Creek to make for a pleasant day trip or weekend outing. Even if it’s crowded, Ona Beach is worth exploring. And a couple miles south, Seal Rock State Park is one of the more beautiful spots on the central coast. To the north, the Newport area has an abundance of places to find good food and drink. And Newport also has a couple of the premier attractions on the central coast.

Tufted Puffin. Photo from the Oregon Coast Aquarium website.

In the South Beach area, just across the Yaquina bay Bridge from downtown Newport, you’ll find both the Oregon Coast Aquarium, one of the Pacific Coast’s premier aquariums, and Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Science Center, home to one of the world’s foremost marine education and research programs. Both are well worth a visit. The Oregon Coast Aquarium is open 10:00-5:00 daily. Ticket prices range from $15 for children 3-12 to $25 for adults. Admission for seniors (65+) and teens (3-17) is $20. Infants and toddlers get in free. Tickets can be purchased online or at the gate. The visitor center at the Hatfield Center is open 10:00-4:00 Thu-Mon. Admission is $5 (ages five and up). Tickets need to be purchased online on the center’s website.

Next time you’re in the Newport area, give Beaver Creek a look. I think you might be pleasantly surprised.

Posted February 25, 2024 by Alan K. Lee

All photos © Alan K. lee, except as noted

Winter Hikes at Silver Falls

The following is an edited and expanded version of a post first published (in a different format) on this site on December 31, 2019.

Winter Hikes at Silver Falls

Where: Silver Falls State Park, Oregon, USA

Distance: One to eight miles

Elevation gain: 300 to 800 feet

Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Map: Oregon State Parks map and brochure

Overview:

Winter is closing in, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t still good hiking options in the Willamette Valley. Silver Falls State Park near Silverton, Oregon offers a number of loops and out and back hikes from barely one mile to nearly eight miles in length that take you to one or more of the eleven named waterfalls in the park. And there are back country trails in the park offering even longer hikes (though no waterfalls).

Silver Falls has been called the crown jewel of the Oregon state parks system. You’ll get no argument from me. It’s a spectacularly beautiful and unique place. Where else can you see 10 (or more) waterfalls on a single hike? I grew up in Salem, about a 30 minute drive from the falls. I’ve been there countless times, and it has never failed to delight and sometimes amaze me. When I started this blog in 2018, Silver Falls was my first post.

Winter can bring snow and ice and dangerous conditions to the trails in the park. But at an elevation of about 1500 feet, the park isn’t high enough for snow to remain on the ground all winter. And on my last winter visit to the park the temperature was in the mid 40s and there was no sign of snow.

Getting there:

Silver Falls State Park is located about fifteen miles east of Salem, Oregon. Coming from Salem or south, take Ore Hwy 22 east and look for signs to Silver Falls. The turn off onto Ore Hwy 214 is about five miles east of Interstate-5. The South Falls day use area is about 15 miles from Hwy 22. Coming from the north, take exit 271 off I-5 at Woodburn. Proceed through Woodburn on Ore Hwy 214, which then takes you through the towns of Mount Angel and Silverton. The park is about 12 miles beyond Silverton.

Trailheads:

There are four trailheads in the main canyon area. By far the largest parking area is at South Falls. There is a small parking area (eight spaces) at the Winter Falls trailhead. The North Falls and new North Canyon trailheads have parking for 30-50 vehicles. There are no facilities at the Winter Falls trailhead, but the other three have restrooms and drinking water available. The South Falls area also has a cafe and a nature store. All parking areas require an Oregon State Parks day use pass. Daily passes are $5 and can be purchased at the South Falls, North Falls, and North Canyon trailheads. Annual passes are $30 for one year and $50 for two years, and can be purchased online through the at the Oregon State Parks website.

The South Falls-Myrtle Ridge hike:

This 2.2-mile loop is a good option if you don’t have time to do any of the longer hikes possible in the park. Starting at the South Falls parking area, make your way to the creek above the falls and follow it downstream to the viewing area at the top of the falls. At 177 feet, South Falls is the highest falls on the north or south forks of Silver Creek and the second highest in the park. From the top of the falls the trail descends to a good vantage point a short way down the trail. Just below the first viewpoint look for a signed side trail to Frenchie Falls. This is the eleventh named falls and the smallest by volume, but it’s worth a look. Back on the main Canyon Trail there are several more places where you can get a good view of South Falls.

Continue down the main trail, which will take you behind South Falls. Here you will be between two layers of the Columbia River Basalt lava flows that are about 15-16 million years old. You’ll be tempted to linger behind the falls because it’s a pretty cool spot, but be prepared to get wet. Spray from the falls often soaks the whole “cave” behind the falls.

Continuing on the Canyon Trail, you’ll next come to Lower South Falls at approximately the one-mile mark. Here the trail also goes behind the falls. Below the falls, you’ll come to the junction with the Maple Ridge Trail at the 1.4-mile mark of the hike. Take the Maple Ridge Trail and climb out of the canyon.

Along the rim of the canyon the Myrtle Ridge Trail takes you through a world of moss and ferns. In the summer it’s shaded by the many Bigleaf Maples and Douglas Firs that line the trail, but in the winter it’s more open and, if you’re lucky enough to get some sunshine, the moss-covered trees and rocks and the ferns can be a vibrant green that is captivating. There wasn’t any sunshine on my last winter hike there, but the moss and ferns still provided a shot of greenery that contrasts with the darker green of the conifers above. Follow the Myrtle Ridge Trail back to the South Falls day use area where you started.

South Falls-Winter Falls loop:

The South Falls-Winter Falls loop is a longer hike (approximately 4.5 miles) than the South Falls-Myrtle Ridge loop. Follow the trail as described above, but at the Myrtle Ridge Trail junction, continue on the Canyon Trail. Here the Canyon Trail leaves the south fork of Silver Creek and joins the north fork. Following the north fork upstream, look for an intermittent waterfall across the creek at the 1.9-mile mark.

The trail then takes you to Lower North Falls (30 feet) at the 2.4-mile mark. Just above the falls a side trail leads to Double Falls, the highest in the park at 184 feet (combined drops). The volume of water flowing over Double Falls is much less than the falls on the two forks of Silver Creek, but still worth a look.

Next up is Drake Falls (27 feet), then the 106-foot drop of Middle North Falls. A side trail here leads behind the falls, but dead ends on the other side. Back on the main trail, you will come to the junction of the Winter Falls Trail at the 2.9-mile mark. Take the Winter Falls Trail to the base of the falls. Like Double Falls, Winter Falls is on a tributary creek with less volume than either fork of Silver Creek.

From the base of the falls, continue up the trail to the rim of the canyon and return to the South Falls day use area on the Rim Trail.

Other winter hikes:

The new North Canyon trailhead and North canyon Trail makes possible a new loop hike that I’m calling the North Canyon Loop that takes you to North and Twin Falls. And the 0.6-mile out and back hike to Upper North Falls is an easy addition to extend the hike to 3.0 miles. And of course the full 7.2-mile Trail of Ten Falls is doable year-round.

Other area attractions:

The Silverton area has a number of decent places to grab a bite to eat or a pint of beer after your hike. Try the Silver Falls Brewery and Alehouse in Silverton or the Benedictine Brewery near Mount Angel that is operated by monks from the Mount Angel Abbey. Silverton is also home to the Oregon Garden, one of the state’s leading botanical gardens. Next door to the Oregon Garden is the Gordon House, the only surviving Frank Lloyd Wright designed house in Oregon.

Posted November 27, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Oswald West State Park

Located between the small towns of Manzanita and Cannon Beach on the north Oregon coast, Oswald West State Park offers a beautiful secluded beach, a prime example of spruce-hemlock temperate rain forest, and some of the most spectacular scenery on the entire coast. The park stretches from Arch Cape in the north to the south slopes of Neahkahnie Mountain, with Smugglers Cove and Short Sand Beach nestled in between Cape Falcon and the north flank of Neahkahnie Mountain.

Oswald West State Park has long been one of my favorite destinations on the Oregon coast. On one of my recent visits, a few days before the spring equinox, the sun was shining, there was an off shore breeze blowing, and the temperature on the beach was about 75 degrees. It was one of those beautiful late winter/early spring breakout days that signal the end of winter – a near perfect day for hiking, sight seeing, and just relaxing on the beach.

The park, originally called Short Sand Beach State Park, was created in 1931 through the efforts of Oregon’s first State Parks Superintendent, Samuel H. Boardman. Boardman was a fervent believer that of as much of the coast should be preserved in public ownership as possible. Many of the state parks along the coast were created under his stewardship. Short Sand Beach State Park was renamed in 1958 to honor former Oregon Governor Oswald West (1873-1960). West was instrumental in preserving public ownership of all Oregon beaches during his term in office (1911-1915) .

Short Sand Beach (also known as Short Sands Beach or just Shorty’s) is popular with local surfers, and is also a popular family destination. The three paved parking lots along Hwy 101 are often full on summer weekends. The short trail to the beach takes you through through the temperate rain forest along Short Sand Creek. There was a walk-in campground located in the forest adjacent to the south end of the beach until 2008 when a large Sitka spruce fell without warning, crushing two fortunately unoccupied campsites. The campground was permanently closed after examination of other trees revealed that several more were in danger of falling.

There are many miles of hiking trails within the park, including thirteen miles of the iconic Oregon Coast Trail. The Oswald West State Park trail guide is a good reference for hikers. Cape Falcon and the north slopes of Neahkahnie Mountain both offer truly spectacular scenery, and can be accessed from Short Sand Beach. The Cape Falcon trail is a personal favorite of mine. Most people don’t venture beyond Short Sand Beach, so you are likely to find yourself with little company, particularly on the section of trail between Cape Falcon and Arch Cape. The trail winds through the spruce-hemlock forest and over Cape Falcon with numerous viewpoints looking south across Smugglers Cove to Neahkahnie Mountain. North of Cape Falcon the trail passes through more spruce-hemlock forest to the small community of Arch Cape, just north of the Arch Cape headland.

Devils Cauldron is a spectacularly beautiful little cove on the north side of Neahkahnie Mountain. It can be reached by either a one mile hike from Short Sand Beach or a much shorter hike from where the Coast Trail crosses Hwy 101. To access the shorter route, drive south on Hwy 101 from the Short Sand Beach parking lots and look for a gravel parking area on the ocean side of the highway. Follow the Coast Trail north a short ways to a signed junction. The Devils Cauldron viewpoint is just a quarter mile walk from the parking area.

On your way back to the trailhead look for another trail branching off to the south. The junction here is unsigned and the trail is sometimes overgrown and impassable. But if it’s open, the trail leads to a narrow shelf of rock that falls away on three sides to the ocean below, and the cliffs of Neahkahnie Mountain tower over the viewpoint to both the north and south. It may not be a place for people with a fear of heights, but it’s one of the most awesome places on the entire coast.

If you’re not a hiker, Hwy 101 has numerous turnouts along the stretch that traverses the face of Neahkahnie Mountain. Here the highway is literally carved into the cliff high above the sea. The views of the ocean and coastline are truly spectacular, and Neahkahnie is one of the best places to spot gray whales.

In the spring, about 18,000 gray whales make the annual trek from their breeding grounds in Baja California to feed in the nutrient rich waters off Alaska. At the peak of the migration in late March about 30 whales per hour pass any given spot on the Oregon coast. Oregon State Parks sponsors Whale Watch Week twice each year, in late March and again in late December when the whales are returning to Baja. Volunteers can be found at 17 spots along the coast, including Neahkahnie Mountain, to help you spot migrating whales. Check the Oregon State Parks Whale Watching website for more information.

After visiting Oswald West, I like to stop at Cannon Beach or Manzanita for a bite to eat and/or a brew or two. In Cannon Beach try Oro’s Fireside Restaurant, Corbin’s, Castaways Global Cuisine, or Pizza A’ Fetta. Cannon Beach brew pubs worth visiting include Pelican Brewing, Bill’s Tavern and Brewhouse, and Public Coast Brewing. If you’re looking for fine dining and cost is not an issue, try the Stephanie Inn or Newmans At 988.

If you’re heading south, Big Wave Cafe, Left Coast Siesta (Mexican), Neah-kah-nie Bistro (fine dining), Marzano’s Pizza Pie, and San Dune Pub (that’s not a typo) in Manzanita are all good places to stop, as is Riverside Fish and Chips in nearby Nehalem. A good breakfast before heading to the park can be had at Lazy Susan Cafe in Cannon Beach, Yolk in Manzanita, or Wanda’s Cafe in Nehalem.

Oswald West State Park is about a two hour drive from Portland, so it’s easily doable as a day trip if you’re from the Portland area or are visiting Portland. But if you want to make a weekend of it, there are plenty of other attractions on the north Oregon coast beyond Oswald West. Hug Point is another spot that my wife and I visit frequently. Both Manzanita and Cannon Beach are interesting towns worth exploring in their own right, have nice beaches, and have many resorts, motels, B&Bs, and other accommodations, as well as their many fine eating and drinking establishments. Seaside, Gearhart, and the Astoria area are other options to the north. Public campgrounds can be found at Nehalem Bay State Park near Manzanita (265 camp sites and 18 yurts), and Fort Stevens State Park (almost 500 campsites, 15 yurts and 11 cabins) at the mouth of the Columbia River about 30 miles north of Oswald West.

If you’re an art lover, Cannon Beach has many fine art galleries, including White Bird, DragonFire, Bronze Coast, Jeffrey Hull, North By Northwest, Imprint, and Icefire Glassworks. Look for a future Pacific Northwest Explorer post on the Cannon Beach art scene.

Originally posted March 27, 2019 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted June 26, 2021 and November 4, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Champoeg Riverside Trail

Where: Champoeg State Heritage Area, Oregon

Distance: 3.2 miles (approximate)

Type: Out and back

Elevation gain: Minimal

Difficulty: Easy

Map: The park map and brochure is available online at the park website and at the park visitor center.

Overview:

The Champoeg Riverside Trail along the Willamette River in Champoeg (pronounced sham-poo-ee) State Heritage Area is an easy family and pet friendly hike with little to no elevation gain. The trail features some good views of the river and is a good year-round option for hikers, close to both the Salem and Portland metropolitan areas. Champoeg State Heritage Area is also one of the most significant historical sites in Oregon (see below).

Getting there:

From Portland or Salem, proceed to Exit 278 (Aurora-Donald) on Interstate-5, go west on Ehlen Road for 3.5 miles, then turn right onto Case Road and follow it to Campoeg State Heritage Area. The park can also be reached from Newberg by taking Oregon Hwy 219 south for four miles to Champoeg Road, then east on Champoeg Road for two miles to the park entrance.

Trailhead:

Inside the park, follow signs to the Riverside picnic area. Restrooms and water are available at the parking area. An Oregon State Park day-use pass ($5/day or $30/year) is required.

The hike:

From the Riverside parking area there are several trails leading to the riverbank. Once there, turn right and follow the packed dirt and gravel trail along the riverbank east to the Townsite picnic area at about the quarter-mile mark. Continue east through the parking area and pick up the Townsite Trail at the east end.

The Townsite Trail takes you along the river through a mixed woodland of Douglas fir, bigleaf maple, and red alder with partially screened views of the river. There are several user-made trails leading down to the water, but they are steep (and dangerous if the ground is wet), so be careful if you want to get to the water for a better view of the river.

At about the one-mile mark you’ll come to an open field on your right and you’ll see a boat dock ahead on your left. There is a small parking area here with a restroom. Head down to the dock for the best views of the river on this hike.

Coming back up from the dock, look for a trail to your left. This will take you to Champoeg Creek where it flows into the Willamette. The trail then loops back through the forest and comes out into a clearing. Follow the edge of the clearing back to the restroom above the dock. From there, retrace your route back to the trailhead at the Riverside picnic area.

Best time to go:

Weekdays from mid-June to mid-October are best, but this is a year-round trail and a good option for winter hikes in the Willamette Valley. Summer weekends can be crowded (and hot), so go early in the day if possible. The trail can be muddy in places in the winter and spring, so hiking boots are advised, and the many side trails leading down to the water are slippery and dangerous when the ground is wet.

Champoeg State Park:

In addition to its hiking trails, the park also offers several large picnic areas that can be reserved for group outings and a 94-site campground. The park is also the site of the historic 1843 vote that led to the area becoming part of the United States rather the United Kingdom. Until that vote, the de facto government of the area was the English owned Hudson Bay Company. For more information on the area history, go to the Oregon State Parks website, or visit the Visitor Center at the park.

Lower South Falls, Silver Falls State Park

Other area attractions:

Silver Falls State Park, one of the best year-round hiking destinations you’ll find anywhere, is located about 30 miles south of Champoeg and 15 miles east of Salem. If you go, you might also want to check out the nearby Oregon Garden, located in the small town of Silverton.

Posted October 26, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos ©Alan K. Lee

Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival

The 2023 Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival was held September 23-24 this year. Lincoln City hosts two kite festivals each year, a summer festival in late June or July and a fall festival in late September or October. If you missed the 2023 events, tentative dates for the 2024 events are June 22-23 for the summer festival and September 21-22 for the fall festival. Mark your calendars because these are great events, fun for the whole family.

Kite festivals are always weather dependent, and if you attended this year’s fall kite festival in Lincoln City, you know that the weather this year wasn’t the best. But when the sun shines and the winds cooperate, the Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival is a glorious event and great fun for all. That was certainly the case in 2018. The following is an update of a post from October 2018.

2018 Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival

It had rained all day Friday, but the forecast looked better for Saturday, so my wife and I decided to head to the coast for the Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival on Saturday morning. The rain had stopped by then, and the sun broke through the clouds by the time we got to McMinnville. Luck was with us.

When we got to the coast, the sky was almost cloudless. And we got the last available parking spot at the D River Wayside. Luck really was with us. There was a brisk, but not cold, breeze on the beach – perfect kite flying weather and a pretty near perfect day for just hanging out on the beach.

The festival featured a lot of very big kites, including a 30 foot diameter “soccer ball,” and quite a few performance kite fliers demonstrating their talents. One of the highlights for me was a flier named Spence Watson flying two quad strings kites. Normally it takes two hands to fly a single quad string. Flying one one-handed is a feat in itself, but he was flying one right-handed and one left-handed, and controlling each one perfectly. Pretty amazing.

The other highlight was the final performance – 13 quad string kites being flow at the same time (one by an eleven year old boy) in a pretty well coordinated routine that I think was improvised on the spot. That was also pretty amazing.

Watching the kite flyers was as entertaining as watching the kites. It’s really a very physical dance that they’re doing. Their movements are perfectly coordinated with the music, but everyone’s moves are a little bit different. If you watch long enough you begin to see the different styles of the flyers. It’s really quite interesting.

There’s plenty to do at the festival for the whole family. Kids can take part in kite making classes, get their faces painted, meet a “real live” mermaid, learn about ocean conservation, fly their own kites, and, of course, just play in the sand.

I lived in Lincoln city for most of the 1980s, so we took a mid-day break and walked the five blocks to look at the house I lived in for part of that time. It’s been extensively remodeled and added on to, so it’s nothing like it was when I lived there.

Pier 101, a seafood restaurant, is only half a block from there, so we stopped in for lunch. It hasn’t changed a bit in the last 30 years, making it about 40 years past due for a makeover. But has its own kind of nostalgic charm, and the food was good, maybe not the best in town, but still very edible.

Lincoln City hosts two kite festivals every year, a summer festival in June or July and a fall festival in September or October. There are numerous other kite fests up and down the Oregon and Washington coasts, including the Southern Oregon Kite Festival in Brookings in July, and the Washington State International Kite Festival in Long Beach and the Rockaway Beach Kite and Art Festival, both in August.

If you’re interested in learning more about kites and kite flying, The Kite Company is a good source for kites, supplies, and instructions on the Oregon Coast, with both an online store and a brick and mortar store in Newport. Other good online sources are Into the Wind , Prism Kites , Kitty Hawk Kites, and Pro Kites USA .

The Lincoln City Fall Kite Festival was good fun for all. The weather was perfect. And Mother Nature provided a gorgeous sunset to top off the day. Can’t ask for much more.

Originally posted by Alan K. Lee October 15, 2018. Updated and re-posted October 4, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

McKenzie River Waterfalls Hike

The McKenzie River Waterfalls Loop Trail

Where: Willamette National Forest, Oregon Cascade Range

Distance: 2.6 miles

Elevation gain: 400 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

Digital map: Oregon Hikers website

Overview:

The McKenzie River Waterfalls Loop hike gives you close views of Sahalie Falls, Koosah Falls, and the wild and spectacularly beautiful McKenzie River from both sides of the river. Or you can make a longer hike of it and start from Clear Lake Resort (6.4 miles round trip) or Coldwater Cove Campground (4.0 miles) on Clear Lake.

Clear Lake Resort on the northwest shore of Clear Lake and Coldwater Cove on the southeast shore both make ideal base camps for hiking the upper McKenzie area, as well as the Santiam Pass and McKenzie Pass areas. The resort has 14 cabins, four of which have two bedrooms, a kitchen, and a bathroom. The resort is popular, and reservations need to be made well in advance of your planned visit, especially for the four cabins with bathrooms. Coldwater Cove Campground has 44 camp sites. Water is available and there are vault toilets, but no RV hookups.

Getting there:

The upper McKenzie River area is about 65 miles east of Eugene, 50 miles west of Bend, and 130 miles southeast of Portland. From the Portland area, take I-5 south to exit 253, then travel east on Ore Hwy 22 for 79 miles to the junction with US Hwy 20, go west for three miles, then turn south on Ore Hwy 126. The Sahalie Falls trailhead is about five miles south of the junction. From Bend, take US Hwy 20 west to the junction with Ore Hwy 126 a few miles west of Santiam Pass, then south on 126 to the trailhead. From Eugene, take Hwy 126 east and then north to any of the three trailheads.

Trailheads:

The McKenzie Waterfalls Loop can be accessed from Sahalie Falls, Koosah Falls, or Carmen Reservoir. The Sahalie Falls trailhead has a sizeable parking area, but it’s a popular stop along the highway, and it is sometimes difficult to find a parking spot. The Koosah Falls and Carmen Reservoir trailheads are used less but also have smaller parking areas. There are restrooms and water available at the Sahalie trailhead. The Koosah and Carmen trailheads have vault toilets but no water. The Sahalie trailhead is located about a mile south of Clear Lake. The Koosah Falls trailhead is about a third of a mile south of the Sahalie trailhead. The Carmen Reservoir trailhead is just south of Koosah Falls on Forest Road 750 about three quarters of a mile west of Hwy 126.

The hike:

Starting at the Sahalie Falls parking area, which is about a mile south of Clear Lake, take the short, paved trail from the parking lot to the viewpoint for a great view of Sahalie Falls. Here the river plunges 75 feet over the edge of a lava flow from the Sand Mountain eruption about 3000 years ago. Even at the end of summer, when the river flow is at its lowest, the volume of water pouring through the notch in the cliff and crashing into the bowl below is impressive.

When you’re done taking in the view, retrace your steps and look for the trail to your right, which descends a set of steps. The trail follows the east bank of the river downstream past a series of cascades and a fifteen-foot, unnamed falls. This short section of trail is one of the most beautiful you will find anywhere. In about a quarter mile you’ll come to a viewpoint that gives a partial view of Koosah Falls, which, like Sahalie, drops 75 feet over the edge of another lava flow from Sand Mountain.

Stay right at the junction with the trail from the Koosah Falls trailhead. At the next junction, a side trail leads down a set off steps to the best viewpoint of Koosah Falls.

Back on the main trail, continue along the river. In another quarter mile you’ll come to a road along Carmen Reservoir. Cross the river on the road bridge and continue along the road for about 150 yards, then pick up the trail again at the Carmen Reservoir trailhead, to the right of the vault toilet and parking area.

In about 100 yards you’ll come to a junction with the McKenzie River Trail. Turn right and follow the trail north to another viewpoint of Koosah Falls.

Above the falls, a side trail leads to a good view of the fifteen-foot unnamed falls.

Farther along the main trail, another side trail leads to a view of Sahalie Falls. On the main trail there is another view of Sahalie. The trail passes close to the lip of the falls, then continues north through the forest and lava rock for about half a mile to a footbridge across the river. Cross the bridge and follow the trail south to your starting point at Sahalie. (If you started at Clear Lake, turn left after crossing the bridge to return to the lake).

Other area attractions and activities:

There are many other hikes in the area that are well worth doing in addition to the McKenzie Waterfalls Loop. Adding the 5.3 mile Clear Lake Loop Trail and the 4.2 mile out-and-back hike to the Blue Pool on the McKenzie River Trail make for a nice trio of hikes with amazing scenery – a beautiful mountain lake, a wild and scenic river with two spectacular waterfalls, and an almost otherworldly cobalt blue pool the color of Crater Lake. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses Santiam Pass only a few miles northeast of upper McKenzie area, giving hikers access to both the Mount Jefferson Wilderness to the north and the Mount Washington Wilderness to the south. And one of the many hot springs in the Cascade Range, Belknap Hot Springs, is only about 15 miles south of the McKenzie Waterfalls Loop. The hot springs are located at Belknap Hot Springs Lodge and Gardens. Day use visitors can soak in one of the hot spring’s pools for a $10/hr fee.

Originally posted December 4, 2022 by Alan K. Lee in a different format. Updated and re-posted September 28, 2023

All photos ©Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Hosmer Lake, Central Oregon

Hosmer Lake is located just off the Cascade Lakes Highway, about 30 miles west of Bend, Oregon. The water is cold and crystal clear, and the scenery is spectacular. Mount Bachelor (elevation 9065 feet) rises only a few miles to the east, and the 10,358-foot South Sister and 9173-foot Broken Top are only slightly farther away, in full view to the north.

The photos here are from a summer day of kayaking on Hosmer a few years ago.

Hosmer Lake is an interesting body of water, well on its way to becoming a marsh or a meadow (in a few thousand years, perhaps). Big Marsh, about 40 miles to the south is an example of a former lake that has become all marshland. The technical term for this process is lake succession if you’re interested in learning more about it.

Hosmer Lake is a mix of open water and reeds, rushes, water lilies, and other marsh plants. Motorized craft (except for electric motor powered) are not allowed on the lake, which makes it ideal for kayaking or canoeing. It’s also not a big lake at 160 acres, so you can easily explore it all in an afternoon.

Hosmer is a popular fishing destination because it is one of the few lakes in Oregon that are stocked with Atlantic salmon. According to the Oregon Dept. of Fish and Wildlife, the Atlantic salmon average 16 inches in length and range up to 22 inches. It’s also stocked with brook trout, which run only slightly smaller. It is a fly fishing only lake, so that limits its use somewhat. My wife and I have kayaked there a number of times, and it’s never been crowded.

Hosmer Lake is also a popular birding area. Waterfowl and shore birds, such as American Bitterns, Virginia Rails, Sora, and Wood Ducks, are common. Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds are abundant during the breeding season and into the fall. And Clark’s Nutcrackers, Gray Jays and other birds can often be seen in the forest surrounding the lake. The relatively uncommon Three-toed and Black-backed Woodpeckers are also found in the surrounding area.

Elk and black bear also frequent the area. And let’s not forget the mosquitoes. Forget your insect repellent at your own risk here. Early in the season is especially bad.

At an elevation of 4966 feet, the recreational season is short at Hosmer. There may be snow and the lake may be still frozen until late May or even into early June some years, and the first snow in the fall can come anytime after the middle of September. But the short summer is glorious.

Hosmer is a good place to pitch a tent or park your RV. There are two small forest service campgrounds on the lake that have about 35 sites between them. Note that no water is available at theses campgrounds, so campers will need to bring their own. Water is available at Little Fawn Campground (8 sites) on the south end of nearby Elk Lake and there are many other forest service campgrounds in the surrounding area. There is also a resort at the north end of Elk Lake.

Hosmer Lake is fed by Quinn Creek, which flows into the north end of the lake. Quinn Creek is narrow and shallow, but it is possible to paddle up it for a ways. When we were there last, downed trees blocked our passage a few hundred yards from the mouth of the creek. We hauled our kayaks out of the water at that point and hiked along the creek to a small waterfall where we ate lunch and lingered awhile before heading back out on the water.

Recalling our visits to Hosmer Lake, I’m eager now to get back to the area and get back on the water again. It’s a beautiful place, and one of my favorite destinations. Hosmer Lake is located in the Deschutes National Forest. Check the Forest Service website for information on forest fire danger and possible use restrictions.

While Hosmer Lake is a worthy destination in its own right, there are plenty of other attractions in the immediate area. Elk Lake, a popular fishing and camping spot, is just west of Hosmer Lake. Sparks Lake, to the northeast, is another good canoeing and kayaking destination. There are a number of other lakes along the Cascade Lakes Highway, many trailheads along the highway that give access to the Three Sisters Wilderness, and many campgrounds in the area.

Nearby Mount Bachelor Resort is one of the prime alpine and Nordic ski areas in the Northwest, but it’s also worth a visit in the summer. Take a chair lift to Pine Mountain Lodge at the 7748 foot level and dine at the restaurant there. Then, if you’re adventurous enough, you can take the 3-stage, 1.3-mile long zip line that descends nearly 1400 vertical feet to the base of the mountain. Or just ride the chairlift back down and enjoy the magnificent views of the South Sister, Broken Top, and the surrounding area.

Originally posted December 10, 2018 by Alan K. Lee

Most recently edited and updated September 25, 2023

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Smith Rock State Park

By Alan K. Lee

Smith Rock State Park in Central Oregon is a mecca for rock climbers, but it’s more than that. Its natural beauty also attracts hikers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, birders and wildlife lovers, fishermen, photographers, and countless others.

Several thousand climbing routes exist within the park, including more than a thousand bolted routes. Climbers literally come from all over the globe to climb here. And an extensive trail system within the park offers hikers a variety of routes of varying lengths and difficulty. Many of the trails are multi-use trails, open also to mountain bikers and horseback riders. Click here to view a map of the park trail system.

Thirty million years ago the area that is now Smith Rock was on the western rim of the Crooked River Caldera. Over time, nearby volcanic eruptions filled the caldera with ash that compacted into volcanic tuff. The tuff was later overtopped with basalt lava flows from vents about fifty miles away. The Crooked River then eroded much of that, leaving the formations we see today.

I’m not a rock climber, but I’ve been coming to Smith Rock on a fairly regular basis for more than half a century. Growing up, my family would often come to Central Oregon to camp and fish, and many times we would make the short detour to Smith Rock on our way home. I’ve been there when the park was almost deserted, something I will probably never see again. Park usage has grown exponentially in recent years, more than doubling in the five years between 2014 and 2019.

On summer weekends you need to come early to have a chance of finding a place to park. The parking areas fill up quickly, and it’s not unusual to see cars parked along both sides of the road leading to the park and people walking in the road. There has been a shuttle system proposed that would allow visitors to park in the nearby town of Terrebonne and bus into the park, but that (to the best of my knowledge) has yet to be implemented. Even during the week, and on spring and fall weekends, parking can be a problem.

The park’s popularity is understandable, but with that has come problems of overcrowding, illegal parking and camping, pedestrian safety, conflicts with local residents and adjacent land owners, degradation of the park’s natural areas, and other problems. Oregon State Parks has recently finalized an updated park master plan that will address those issues. Changes could include creation of a new park entrance, additional parking areas, installation of “smart gates” and elimination of roadside parking, relocation and expansion of the walk-in bivouac camping area, relocation and expansion of the visitor center, a new day-use area, new trailheads, additional bridges across the Crooked River, a new trail to Terrebonne, and new composting toilets in the climbing areas.

October 2023 update:

The trail bridge across the Crooked River that had been closed for reconstruction is now open. Construction of the the new, wider bridge (pictured above) was completed in early October.

Despite the crowds and other problems, Smith Rock is a Pacific Northwest bucket list destination, not to be missed. It’s a spectacularly beautiful place. But if you’re looking for a wilderness experience, you won’t find it at Smith Rock (except maybe in the middle of winter). If you don’t mind sharing the place with others, though, the park is large enough that visitors tend to spread out, and even at full capacity the park doesn’t feel overly crowded if you get a little ways away from the parking areas. (A recent visitor survey found that 69% of the respondents felt the park to be somewhat to very crowded, however.)

You can avoid the worst of the crowds and the hassles that the limited parking creates by visiting in the spring or fall during the week. Visiting in winter might even offer a bit of solitude, and the clear and cold days that are often found then can be one of the best times to photograph the magnificent rock formations. And they are truly magnificent.

The park is located just east of the town of Terrebonne, which is about 25 miles north of Bend, Oregon, and about 140 miles southeast of Portland. For more information, go to the Smith Rock State Park website, or the independent SmithRock.com site.

Originally posted on March 11, 2019. Updated most recently on October 11, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee, except as noted.

Fort Stevens State Park, Oregon Coast

Introduction

Fort Stevens State Park is one of the most popular and most visited parks in Oregon, and for good reason. It includes a nice beach with good clamming at low tides, a freshwater lake with two picnic grounds, hiking trails, abundant wildlife habitat (including that of a resident herd of Roosevelt elk), a shipwreck, a large campground, and more. And it has an interesting history.

History

From 1864 to 1947, Fort Stevens was an active military base, one of three forts at the mouth of the Columbia River built to protect the entrance to the river. After decommissioning, the fort became the property of the Army Corp of Engineers. In 1975 ownership was transferred to the State of Oregon and became part of Fort Stevens State Park. Many of the concrete gun batteries are still present and open to the public. The park also includes a military history museum, and tours of an underground WWII-era portion of the fort are available.

Fort Stevens State Park was created in 1955 after Clatsop County gifted a parcel of land south of the old military base to the State of Oregon. The state expanded the park several times between 1955 and 1975. The addition of the grounds of the historic Fort Stevens brought the park area to its present size of 4300 acres.

In addition to its military history, Fort Stevens State Park is also part of Lewis and Clark National Historic Park.

The Park

Today, Fort Stevens State Park includes a campground with almost 500 campsites (174 with full hookups and 302 with water and electricity). There are also 15 yurts, 11 cabins, and a hiker-biker camp. The campground has bathrooms with flush toilets and hot showers.

There are two large picnic areas on the shores of Coffenbury Lake, a 50-acre freshwater lake that is sheltered from the strong winds that can make the beach a less than pleasant experience at times. The lake has a boat ramp (non-motorized craft or boats with electric motors only), and the lake is stocked with rainbow trout. It also has a variety of warm water fish, including largemouth bass, and is occasionally stocked with steelhead.

The park includes a nine-mile-long bike path, six miles of hiking trails, four miles of ocean beach (part of 15 miles of uninterrupted beach stretching from the south jetty of the Columbia River to the town of Gearhart), two miles of Columbia riverfront beach, and four miles of marshland along the Columbia River Estuary.

Wreck of the Peter Iredale, October 25, 1906. Sourced from Wikimedia Commons.

The Shipwreck

One of the unique features of the park is the shipwreck still visible on the beach after more than a century.

On a foggy night in October 1906, the Peter Iredale, a four masted, steel hulled sailing ship, was blown ashore four miles south of the entrance to the Columbia River by a strong west wind. All 27 crew members were rescued unharmed, but the ship could not be salvaged and has remained on the beach ever since.

The wreck has deteriorated over the past century, but a surprisingly large amount of the hull remains intact. I visited the wreck at low tide in August (2023) and took the photos shown here. (My family camped at Fort Stevens a number of times when I was growing up, but in those days the wreck was buried in the sand, and I don’t remember it being visible on any of our trips there. It wasn’t until fairly recently that I first saw the remains of the ship).

Getting There

Fort Stevens State Park is located near Astoria, Oregon. From Astoria, take US Hwy 101 south across the New Youngs Bay Bridge. Just south of the bridge turn right onto Ore Hwy 104 (E. Harbor Drive). Follow Hwy 104 through downtown Warrenton and follow signs to the park. From the south, take Hwy 101 north, turn left onto Ore Hwy 104 just south of Warrenton, and follow signs to the park.

Nearby Attractions

The area around the mouth of the Columbia River has many interesting places to explore in addition to Fort Stevens. The Lewis and Clark Expedition, the first Americans to explore the area west of the continental divide, reached the mouth of the Columbia in 1806. Members of the expedition built Fort Clatsop, where they spent the winter of 1806-07. The exact location of the fort is unknown, but a replica of the fort, part of Lewis and Clark National Historic Park, is located a few miles east of Fort Stevens where historians believe the fort was located. For hikers, the park features a 6.5-mile trail from Fort Clatsop to the Pacific Ocean at Sunset Beach.

In 1811, John Jacob Astor’s Northwest Company established Fort Astoria at the site of the present-day town of Astoria, the oldest American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. Astoria is an interesting as well as historic town well worth visiting on its own.

North Head Lighthouse, Cape Disappointment State Park

Besides Fort Stevens, there are several other parks in the area. Cape Disappointment State Park is located on the Washington side of the Columbia River. It’s the site of Fort Canby, another of the forts that guarded the mouth of the river. Fort Columbia Historical State Park, a few miles inland on the shore of the Washington side of the river, is the site of the third of the three forts.

Ocean fishing trips can be booked on charter boats at the port town of Ilwaco, on the Washington side of the river across the four-mile-long Astoria-Megler Bridge from the town of Astoria.

Conclusion

Whether you’re a camper, beachcomber, history buff, fisherman, hiker, wildlife enthusiast, photographer, or sightseer, Fort Stevens State Park and the immediate area has something for everyone. And the Long Beach, Washington area north of the Columbia, and the towns, parks, and beaches of the northern Oregon coast also have a lot to offer the traveler. It is no wonder that the area is one of the top tourist destinations in the Pacific Northwest.

Posted August 13, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos by and property of the author, except as noted

A New Trail at Silver Falls

There is a new trail at Silver Falls and a new hike:

The North Canyon Loop

Where: Silver Falls State Park

Distance: 2.4 miles

Elevation gain: 300 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

Oregon State Parks map and brochure.

Overview:

Silver Falls State Park opened a new day use area, called North Canyon, in July 2023, the first phase of a North Gateway complex that will also feature a visitor center and a new 50-unit campground (scheduled to open in 2025). North Canyon features a new picnic area, ADA accessible restrooms, and a 59-space parking lot, which more than doubles the available parking in the north end of the park.

North Canyon also features a new trail, the North Rim Trail, that runs along the canyon rim between the new day use area and the existing North Falls parking lot and North Falls trailhead. The new trail is ADA accessible to a viewpoint of North Falls. This new trail at Silver Falls makes possible a new 2.4-mile loop hike that is this week’s hike of the week.

Getting there:

Silver Falls State Park is located about fifteen miles east of Salem, Oregon. Coming from Salem or south, take Ore Hwy 22 east and look for signs to Silver Falls. The turn off onto Ore Hwy 214 is about five miles east of Interstate-5. The South Falls day use area is about 15 miles from Hwy 22. The North Falls parking area is about 2.2 miles farther, and the new North Canyon day use area is just beyond that (look for a sign for the group camp area).

Coming from the north, take exit 271 off I-5 at Woodburn. Proceed through Woodburn on Ore Hwy 214 and follow 214 through the towns of Mount Angel and Silverton. The park is about 12 miles from Silverton. The North Canyon turnoff (old group camp area) is the first right after entering the park. The North Falls parking area is a short distance beyond the North Canyon turnoff.

Trailheads:

You can start and end the North Canyon Loop hike from either the North Falls or the new North Canyon trailheads. Both have restrooms and water is available at both. Day use parking permits cost five dollars and can be purchased at either parking area. Twelve month and twenty-four month Oregon State Park passes are available for $30 and $50 respectively from the Reserve America website.

The hike:

This hike can be done in either clockwise or counterclockwise directions. Going counterclockwise avoids the steep climb out of the canyon from Twin Falls to the North Canyon trailhead. I went the other way, though.

I started at the new North Canyon trailhead. The North Rim Trail is a wide gravel path with a gradual (less than 5%) grade that is ADA accessible from the trailhead to the North Falls Viewpoint. Beyond that, the trail is narrower and not ADA compliant.

Just beyond the trailhead you’ll come to the junction with the Twin Falls Trail, an older trail that takes you down a steep descent into the canyon. Turn right at the junction to do the loop in the counterclockwise direction.

Beyond the Twin Falls Trail junction, the North Rim Trail meanders through the forest, passing a children’s play area and a small two-table picnic area.

There are two bridges on the new trail built to meet ADA requirements.

North Falls from North Rim Trail viewpoint

In about six tenths of a mile, the ADA accessible portion of the trail ends at a spectacular viewpoint looking up the canyon to North Falls. This is a good spot to stop and linger for a while.

North Rim Trail beyond the North Falls viewpoint

Beyond the viewpoint, the trail is a narrower non-ADA accessible dirt path that continues for another two tenths of a mile to the North Falls parking area. The North Falls and Upper North Falls trailheads are on the opposite side of the parking lot. The 0.6-mile out and back hike to Upper North Falls is a very worthwhile addition to this loop, making for a slightly longer 3.0-mile hike.

From the North Falls trailhead, take the Canyon Trail, which descends a set of steps and then loops back behind North Falls, one of the four falls in the park that you can walk behind. You’ll probably want to linger here, too, for a while. It’s a pretty unique and pretty special spot, in my opinion.

Continue on the Canyon Trail, passing almost directly below the viewpoint on the North Rim Trail, for about a mile to the lower junction of the Twin Falls Trail. Stay on the Canyon Trail for now. The best view of Twin Falls is a few hundred yards beyond the junction. Then retrace your steps and take the Twin Falls Trail, which switchbacks steeply up the side of the canyon. You’ll gain about 250 feet in the first three tenths of a mile. The last two tenths of a mile back to the North Canyon trailhead is still uphill, but not nearly as steep.

Despite the steep climb out of the canyon, this new loop is a relatively easy hike, and a nice addition to the many other possible loops the park offers. As a life-long hiker, I can tell you that Silver Falls is about as close to paradise as it gets, and you could make a good argument for the Trail of Ten Falls being the best hiking trail in the Northwest. Silver Falls State Park has a lot more to offer than just hiking opportunities, too. For an overview of the park as a whole, click here.

Other area attractions and activities:

The nearby town of Silverton has a variety of dining and lodging options. Stop in at the Silver Falls Brewery and Alehouse after your hike for a bite to eat and a pint of craft brewed beer. Or try the Benedictine Brewery near Mount Angel that is operated by monks from the Mount Angel Abbey. Silverton is also home to the Oregon Garden, one of the state’s leading botanical gardens. Next door to the Oregon Garden is the Gordon House, the only surviving Frank Lloyd Wright designed house in Oregon.

Conclusion:

A new trail at Silver Falls is a rare occurrence – I can’t remember an entirely new trail opening at the park in my lifetime – and certainly a welcome one. The North Canyon Loop isn’t the most spectacular hike in the park, but it is a nice addition to the park’s already extensive list of outstanding hiking options.

Posted August 8, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos ©Alan K. Lee

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park

Chehalem Ridge Hike

Where: Chehalem Ridge Nature Park, Washington County, Oregon

Distance: 3.6 to 4.2 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: 400 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map:

For a map of the entire park, click here.

Overview:

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is owned and operated by Metro, the tri-county regional government agency of the Oregon portion of the Portland metropolitan area. It is Metro’s newest park, opened in 2021. The park has about ten miles of trails. All are open to hikers, most to mountain bikers, and many to horseback riders. Much of the park’s 1250 acres were once a tree farm, and this hike passes through several of those areas, but also traverses several areas of older, more mature and more natural forest. Under protection from Metro, the tree farm areas will eventually transition back into a more natural, wildlife friendly habitat through forest thinning, removal of non-native vegetation and planting of native trees and shrubs.

Getting there:

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is located south of Forest Grove and west of Beaverton. There are a variety of ways to get there depending on your starting point. Enter the address of the park, 38263 SW Dixon Mill Rd, Gaston, OR 97119, into your navigation system or Google Maps to get the best route from your location. There is no public transportation to the park.

Trailhead:

The trailhead for this hike, and other hikes in the park, is located at the park entrance off Dixon Mill Road. There are restrooms and water available at the trailhead. This hike begins just behind the west picnic shelter.

The hike:

Start the hike by taking the Woodland Trail, which meanders through an old tree farm. The trees here are all the same size and age, with little understory growth. The trail ascends gradually to a high point, then descends to its end at Timber Road, 1.4 miles from the trailhead.

Turn left on Timber Road, which crosses Christensen Creek (the low point of this hike) and follow it up the hill. In about three tenths of a mile, you’ll come to the start of the Chehalem Ridge Trail on your right. This is the high point of the hike. Hike up the Chehalem Ridge Trail for about a tenth of a mile, then turn right onto the Witches Butter Trail. This part of the hike passes through another area that was part of a tree farm until recently. There is an overlook on the Witches Butter Trail that gives a nice view east and north across the Tualatin Valley. On a clear day, Mount St. Helens and Mount Hood are visible from there.

In another half mile, turn left onto the Ayeekwa Trail, which runs through an older, more natural forest with a more diverse flora and an understory more typical of the temperate rain forest environment common to the area before European colonization. In about seven tenths of a mile, the Ayeekwa Trail returns to Timber Road at Christensen Creek.

Turn left on Timber Road and re-cross Christensen Creek. Here you have the option of retracing your steps on the Woodland Trail back to the trailhead or following Timber Road up the hill. The Woodland Trail is more scenic, but longer (making for a 4.2 mile hike). If you elect to take Timber Road, look for the Ammefu Trail on your left about a quarter mile from Christensen Creek. This is a short detour through an older forest. There is a bench with a nice view where you can rest. One of the “Three Elders” sculptures done by Adam McIsaac, Bobby Mercier, and Nakoa Mercier is located near the bench.

Where the Ammefu Trail rejoins Timber Road, you can either follow the road back to the trailhead (where you’ll find another of the “Three Elders” sculptures) or cross the road and rejoin the Woodland Trail and take it back to the trailhead.

Timber Road is a shared use trail open to hikers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders (but not motor vehicles), as is Chehalem Ridge Trail. The Woodland Trail and Witches Butter Trail are open to hikers and mountain bikers, but not horseback riders. The Ayeekwa and Ammefu Trails are hiker only.

Other area attractions and activities:

Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is in a rural area with no other close by hiking or biking opportunities, but the west metro area, not far from Chehalem Ridge, has an abundance. Some of my favorite hikes in the area include Tualatin Hills Nature Park, Cooper Mountain Nature Park, and, closer to downtown Portland, Hoyt Arboretum in Washington Park. And, if you’re like me, you might want to quench your thirst with a cold beer after your hike. There are many pubs in the west metro area to do just that. Two of the closest are McMenamin’s Grand Lodge in Forest Grove and Mazama Brewing in Hillsboro.

Conclusion:

While Chehalem Ridge Nature Park is not pristine wilderness, it is a worthwhile outing for hikers looking for a new and uncrowded destination in the Portland metropolitan area. It’s also large enough to offer multiple potential hikes, from short loops near the park entrance to out and back hikes exceeding ten miles in length.

Posted July 27, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Hug Point State Park, Oregon Coast

Hug Point State Park

Located near the coastal town of Cannon Beach, Oregon, Hug Point’s unique blend of beaches, tide pools, interesting and unusual rock formations, caves, and waterfall make it one my favorite spots on the coast. The headland also blocks the prevailing northwest wind in the summer, so it’s often quite pleasant there when more exposed beaches are uncomfortably cold.

Besides being one of the nicer and more interesting beaches on the Oregon coast, Hug Point also played an interesting role in securing Oregon’s beaches as public property more than a century ago. Before the coast highway (US 101) was built, the beaches were important transportation routes. In the case of the small community of Arch Cape, located about five miles south of Cannon Beach, the beach was the only route in or out of the town. And travelers had to get around Hug Point, which was difficult for horse drawn carriages and wagons. They had to “hug the point” in rounding it to keep from getting into water too deep to negotiate, even at low tide.

Early motor cars had even more of a problem getting around Hug Point than carriages and wagons. To make the traverse easier and safer, someone blasted a primitive roadway into the face of the headland. Legend has it that it was done by a man after he had lost his new car to the rising tide while trying to navigate around the point. But who actually built it, and when, remains unknown. There are photos of the finished roadway dating to 1915, but there are no surviving records of the roadway’s construction.

In 1911 Oswald West was elected Governor of Oregon, partly on the basis of his campaign promise to protect Oregon’s beaches from private development. The Oregon State Land Board had begun selling tidelands to private investors as early as 1874, but there was widespread opposition to that practice among the populace in the early years of the 20th century. West made the case that the beaches needed to be kept in public ownership to preserve access to coastal communities such as Arch Cape. In 1913 the state legislature agreed, passing a law making the entire coast from California to the Columbia River a state highway. To learn a little more about this often forgotten bit of Oregon history, and Hug Point’s role in it, click here.

The Oregon Beach Bill , promoted heavily by then-Governor Tom McCall, further cemented public ownership of Oregon’s beaches. Passed by the state legislature in 1967, the bill made all coastal lands up to sixteen vertical feet above the low tide line property of the state, and preserved public beach access up to the vegetation line.

I love the eroded sandstone rock formations found at Hug Point. The layered sandstone of the point has been warped and folded by tectonic processes and eroded by wind and water into fantastic formations. The tidewater rocks are covered in green algae and seaweed, barnacles, and mussels. The rocks, sand, colorful vegetation, waves, and ever changing light make for great photo opportunities.

Hug Point State Park is located about five miles south of Cannon Beach. The point can also be reached from Arcadia Beach State Park, about a mile to the north. It’s an easy day trip from the Portland area, but there many other attractions in the area, so many visitors spend a weekend or longer in the area.

The nearby towns of Cannon Beach, Seaside, and Manzanita all have numerous motels, BNBs, and other accommodations, as well as many restaurants and cafes serving fresh seafood and other locally sourced foods. Astoria, located at the mouth of the Columbia River, is both the oldest European settlement and one of the most interesting towns in the Pacific Northwest.

The nearest campgrounds are at Nehalem Bay State Park, about ten miles south of Hug Point, and Fort Stevens State Park, about 25 miles to the north. There are also numerous RV parks all up and down the northern Oregon coast.

Hug Point is one of the nicest beaches on the northern Oregon coast, especially for families, and because of that it can be quite crowded in the summer, even during the week. But if you’re looking for a quiet beach where you can find some solitude, you can sometimes find Hug Point nearly deserted on week days after Labor Day. And Fall offers some of the best weather on the coast. Winter days are frequently wet and windy, but those days have an appeal of their own, and some of my best memories of the coast are from stormy winter days where I had the beach entirely to myself.

One note of caution, though. If you go, pay attention to the tides. The waterfall and caves that draw most of the visitors to Hug Point State Park are nestled between Adair Point, immediately north of the beach access, and Hug Point itself. At high tide it can be difficult or impossible to get around these two points, so it is possible to get trapped between them.

Originally posted January 8, 2019 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted May 10, 2021, and July 20, 2023

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Astoria, Oregon

In 1811, barely five years after the members of the Lewis and Clark Expedition had become the first Americans to explore the area, John Jacob Astor’s Pacific Fur Company established Fort Astoria near the mouth of the Columbia River. The fort was sold to the North West Company only two years later and renamed Fort George, but the establishment of Fort Astoria (along with the earlier presence of the Lewis and Clark Expedition) gave the fledgling United States claim to the territory. In 1846 the Oregon Treaty gave possession of the area to the United States and the following year the first U.S. Post Office west of the Rocky Mountains was established in the growing community of Astoria.

Astoria is rich with history and filled with interesting places to explore. It’s also close enough to the Portland area to be an easy day trip. On my last visit, my first stop was the Astoria Column, atop Coxcomb Hill. The 125-foot-tall tower was built in 1926 to commemorate the history of the area, specifically the discovery of the Columbia River by Captain John Gray in 1792, the Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1804-1806, and the establishment of Fort Astoria in 1811.

Construction of the monument was first proposed by Ralph Budd, president of the Great Northern Railroad. It was designed by architect Electus Litchfield, and funding was provided, at least in part, by descendants of John Jacob Astor. The exterior of the Column is decorated with a spiral frieze painted by sgraffito artist and Italian immigrant Attilio Pusterla depicting fourteen events in the history of the area. The Column was listed in the National Register of Historical Places in 1974.

After my stop at the Astoria Column, I had lunch at Fort George Brewery, then spent an hour or two along the waterfront. The Astoria River Walk, an asphalt and boardwalk bike path and walking trail, runs for three miles along the riverfront. In the summer months, the Astoria Riverfront Trolley, a1913 heritage streetcar originally from San Antonio, Texas, runs along the river next to the River Walk. Cost to ride is $1.00, or $2.00 for an all-day hop on, hop off pass.

Replica of Chief Concomly’s burial canoe

Astoria was the first American settlement on the Pacific coast, but of course the real history of the area goes back much farther. The people of the Clatsop Tribe have lived in the area for at least a thousand years, and the area may have been first settled by early Native American peoples as long as 10,000 years ago.

For most the city’s history, the fishing and shipping industries were central to Astoria’s economy. Below the soaring arch of the Astoria-Megler Bridge, Martime Memorial Park honors the many men and women that had been involved in the fishing and seafaring trades during their lives.

Columbia Lightship, Columbia River Maritime Museum

Maritime Memorial and Astoria-Megler Bridge

About a mile east of the Maritime Memorial, the Columbia River Maritime Museum is one of Astoria’s premier attractions. The museum houses a 30,000-item collection related to the history of fishing, shipping, and naval activities of the area. At the CRMM you can also tour the lightship Columbia. Other historical attractions in the area include the Flavel House Museum, a Queen Anne style Victorian mansion built by sea captain George Flavel in 1885, and a replica of the blockhouse of Fort Astoria, the first structure erected in Astoria.

Present day Astoria’s economy is more centered on tourism than fishing or logging. There is a thriving arts community, the weekly street market (Astoria Sunday Market) draws people to the area in the summer, and there is a growing food and drink scene.

For beer lovers, Astoria Brewing, Fort George Brewery, Rogue Pier 39 Public House, and Buoy Beer Company, and Breakside Brewery all offer topflight craft beers and pub food. Reach Break Brewing and Hondo’s Brew Pub are smaller brewers that get high marks, as well. The Pacific Northwest Brew Cup Festival, held in late August at Heritage Square in downtown Astoria, offers craft beers from more than two dozen brewers, as well as food from an assortment of food trucks. Admission is free.

As for cafes and restaurants, Bridgewater Bistro serves up New American cuisine in an old cannery building on the waterfront. Street 14 Cafe serves locally sourced foods for breakfast and lunch. For seafood, try Bowpicker (fish and chips served from a converted fishing boat on Duane Street), or the Silver Salmon Grille on Commercial Street (occupying the space that housed the Thiel Brothers Restaurant for fifty years). Ethnic foods can be found at Drina Daisy’s Bosnian Restaurant, Fulio’s (Italian), Tora Sushi Lounge, Himani Indian Cuisine, and Plaza Jalisco Mexican Restaurant.

Gull and old pilings along the riverfront

Quality coffee houses include Journey’s End Espresso and Kick Ass Koffee, both located near the bridge in the Uniontown District, Coffee Girl, next to Rogue Pier 39 Public House, and The Rusty Cup on Commercial Street in the historic downtown section.

If you’re planning an overnight stay, luxury accommodations can be found at the Cannery Pier Hotel, in an old cannery building on pilings over the water, and the Elliot Hotel (both $300+ per night). Lloyd Hotel and Astoria Riverwalk Inn both get good reviews and are priced mid-range. For bargain accommodations, try the Astoria Crest Motel or the Astoria Rivershore Motel. (The historic John Jacob Astor Hotel, pictured above, is now an apartment building).

A couple of interesting historical notes. The world’s first cable TV system was established in Astoria in 1946 by Ed Parsons, owner of radio station KAST. And one of Clark Gable’s earliest acting gigs was at the Astoria Theater, where he met his first wife, Joan Didion, in the early 1920s. Astoria has also been the filming location for a number of movies in recent decades, including The Goonies, Kindergarten Cop, Free Willy, Short Circuit, and Come See the Paradise.

On my way out of town that afternoon, I stopped at Fort Clatsop, part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Park. In November 1805 the Lewis and Clark Expedition (the Corps of Discovery) reached the mouth of the Columbia River after an 18-month journey from St. Louis. In December they constructed Fort Clatsop, southeast of Astoria, near the shore of what is now the Lewis and Clark River (formerly called the Netul River). The thirty-three members of the expedition wintered there from December 7, 1805 until March 22, 1806. The fort was abandoned when they left to return east, and nothing remains of it today. Its exact location is unknown, but historians are confident that it was in the immediate vicinity of the replica of the fort that is part of the historic park. From the fort there is a short trail to the bank of the river, and a 6.5-mile trail that leads to the ocean at Sunset Beach.

Other attractions in the area include Fort Stevens State Park at the mouth of the Columbia on the Oregon side, and Cape Disappointment State Park on the Washington side.

Originally posted 11/22/18 by Alan K. Lee. Updated and re-posted 4/6/21 and 7/3/23.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Clear Lake Loop Trail

Clear lake Loop Trail

Where: Upper McKenzie River Valley, Willamette National Forest, Oregon

Distance: 5.0 miles

Elevation gain: Minimal

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (for rough sections of the trail through the lava flows)

Overview:

Clear Lake is one of the clearest (as the name would suggest), cleanest, coldest, and most beautiful lakes in the Cascade Range. It’s also the headwaters of the spectacularly beautiful McKenzie River. This hike takes you through the forest and lava fields around the lake, with great views of the lake from all sides.

Note that the trail along the west side of the lake may be closed periodically to protect bald eagle nesting sites. Call the McKenzie River Ranger Station at 541-822-7254 for more information. (The Ranger District’s website wasn’t much help, and the link to their email didn’t work).

Map: Oregon Hikers

Getting there:

Clear Lake is located along Oregon Hwy 126 about 65 miles east of Eugene. From the Portland area, take I-5 south to exit 253, then travel east on Ore Hwy 22 for 79 miles to the junction with US Hwy 20, go west for three miles, then turn south on Ore Hwy 126. The lake is about three miles south of the junction. From the Bend area, take US Hwy 20 west over Santiam Pass to the junction with Ore Hwy 126, then south to the lake.

Trailheads:

You can start this hike from either the day use area at Clear Lake Resort on the northwest side of the lake or Coldwater Cove Campground on the southeast side. The resort has a small cafe (open limited hours) and restrooms, and drinking water is available. There is no charge to park and a Northwest Forest Pass is not required. The Coldwater Cove trailhead is at the end of Forest Road 770, about one mile east of Hwy 126 just south of the lake. There are vault toilets at the campground and drinking water is available. Parking requires a Northwest Forest Pass. The trail description below starts and ends at the resort.

The hike:

If you’re starting the hike at the resort, park in the day use area at the resort (unless you are renting one of the cabins or the yurt) and walk north through the resort along the shore of the lake. In a few hundred yards you’ll see the trailhead on your right.

The first part of the trail takes you through the forest with filtered views of the lake. Several side trails lead down to the lake for better views.

The new and much improved Fish Lake Creek bridge, 2024

The trail continues north away from the lake, then crosses Ikenick Creek and doubles back to the lake before turning north again for about a half mile to a junction with the McKenzie River National Scenic Trail. Here the trail crosses Fish Lake Creek. (The Forest Service was in the process of replacing the old single log bridge when I was there in 2022 and the bridge was closed, but the creek was dry and you could scramble down the slope and climb back up the other side. The new bridge was in place when I did this hike again in the summer of 2024.

After crossing Fish Lake Creek, the trail turns south and runs along the eastern shore of the lake to the Great Spring. This was the source of the McKenzie River before Clear Lake was formed about 3000 years ago when a lava flow damned the river.

From the Great Spring the trail follows the east shore through the lava fields and forest. Parts of the trail are pretty rough. Good quality hiking boots are advised, although I did this hike in sneakers on my latest visit. But open toed sandals or flip flops are definitely not acceptable footwear on this section of the trail.

Clear Lake Lodge from the opposite shore

The section of trail immediately north of Coldwater Cove Campground is paved. South of the campground, the trail runs through the forest to the south end of the lake where you’ll come to a trail junction. Turn right to return to the resort.

Clear Lake outlet and the beginning of the McKenzie River

The trail crosses the lake’s outfall on a bridge that provides good views south to the beginning of the McKenzie River and north across the lake. Across the bridge, the trail turns north through the forest along the west shore of the lake. There is one good side trail that will take you to the lakeshore, but the main trail gives only limited views of the lake before you return to the resort where you started.

Other area attractions and activities:

There are too many other hikes in the area to list all of them, but two of the best are the four mile out and back hike to the Blue Pool on the McKenzie River, and the 2.6-mile McKenzie Waterfalls Loop that takes you past both Sahalie and Koosah Falls on the McKenzie. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses Santiam Pass northeast of Clear Lake giving hikers access to trails in both the Mount Jefferson Wilderness to the north and the Mount Washington Wilderness to the south.

Fish Lake, a few miles north of Clear Lake, is definitely worth a visit. The lake dries up completely in the summer and becomes a lush, green meadow, even in late summer when the surrounding forest is bone dry. The 19th century Santiam Wagon Road crossed the Cascades here, and there was a Forest Service guard station here in the first half of the 20th century. Several of the Forest Service buildings and historic homesteads have been preserved and the area is now a National Historic Site.

Thermal pool at Belknap Hot Springs. Photo from Tripadvisor website.

One of the many hot springs in the Cascade Range is Belknap Hot Springs, located about 15 miles south of Clear Lake. The hot springs are at Belknap Hot Springs Lodge and Gardens. Day use visitors can soak in one of the hot springs pools for a $10/hr fee.

American Dipper. Photo by Joan E. Newman

Originally posted June 22, 2023. Updated September 7, 2024.

All photos ©Alan K. Lee, except as noted

Oregon Country Fair 2023

The Oregon Country Fair started in 1969 as a benefit for an alternative school. Originally called the Renaissance Fair, it was essentially a bunch of hippies getting together to sing, dance, smoke pot, party, and raise money for a school. And to some extent it still is, except that today it is strictly a drug and alcohol-free event. I had not been to the fair in many years, but returned in 2018, curious to see what it had become.

So, just what is the Oregon Country Fair today? Well, it’s a three-day festival and gathering held every July near the town of Veneta, Oregon, about 15 miles west of Eugene. It’s run by a non-profit organization that supports a variety of other non-profits providing medical, housing, and educational services, and also provides support for the arts and the environment. According to its website, the OCF “has a rich and varied history of alternative arts and performance promotion, educational opportunities, land stewardship and philanthropy,” and “creates events and experiences that nourish the spirit, explore living artfully and authentically on earth, and transform culture in magical, joyous and healthy ways.” You can make what you will of that. But at its heart it’s still a party. A huge three-day party.

The OCF is a remnant of the 1960s counterculture, for sure, but it is anything but stuck in the 60s. Over its 54-year history the Oregon Country Fair has not only survived but grown and thrived. It’s hard to describe just how big this thing has become. The schedule of events for the 2018 fair listed 120 performances on the first day, spread over 19 stages. There are dozens of musical acts, dancers, comedy acts, vaudeville, circus acts, and more than a dozen groups of performers that wander the miles of paths of the fairgrounds. And that’s just the entertainment.

There are also more than 300 artisans selling hand crafted goods – pottery, jewelry, leatherworks, glassworks, furniture and other woodworks, sculptures, paintings, photography, clothing, and you name it. There are also dozens of workshops, classes, and “gatherings,” and almost ninety food booths. There is a childcare center, three first aid stations, a cell phone charging station, drinking water bottle filling stations, showers, and five ATMs.

Every year, the Oregon Country Fair draws tens of thousands of people from all over the Northwest and beyond (I saw one car in the parking lot with Maine license plates). On my last visit, the paid attendance for the day was 15,000. Add in the hundreds of OCF staff, and all the artisans, performers, food booth staffers, and other workers, and you have a not so small city.

This is just a colossal event, one that is worth attending at least once in your life just to take in the sheer magnitude of it. In 2018 my wife had other commitments and couldn’t come, but I enjoyed the fair enough to return the following year and bring her with me. We both enjoyed the 2019 event, but the Covid-19 pandemic derailed the fair in 2020 and 2021. It resumed in 2022 as a slightly smaller event but for 2023 it looks to be back to what it was before the pandemic, and my wife and I may be back again this year to take in the energy and inspired lunacy of this thing one more time.

The 2023 Oregon Country Fair will be held from Friday July 9^th through Sunday July 11^th. Tickets to this year’s fair can be purchased through the OCF website. Single day tickets cost $45 for Friday and Saturday and $40 for Sunday. Seniors (65+) and the alter-abled receive a $5 discount. Children under 13 are free.

Tickets purchased prior to June 23^rd will be mailed to the purchaser. Tickets purchased after June 23^rd can be picked up at the Will Call tent near the fair entrance. Day of event ticket purchases can be made at McDonalds Theater in downtown Eugene or at the northwest parking lot of Valley River Center. Tickets will not be sold at the fairgrounds. Three-day tickets are already sold out.

To get to the fairgrounds from Eugene, take Ore Hwy 126 (West 11^th St) west through Veneta. The entrance to the fairgrounds is on Hwy 126 1.6 miles west of Territorial Highway in Veneta. Coming from north of Eugene, take Interstate 5 or US Hwy 99 south to the Randy Pape Beltline Hwy (exit 195 off I-5), then west to Hwy 126. Follow Hwy 126 west through Veneta. From the south take I-5 north to exit 189, then follow 30^th Avenue (it will become Amazon Parkway) west then north to West 11^th (Hwy 126) and proceed as above.

Parking is $15 per day per vehicle and can be purchased when buying tickets. Free shuttle buses from either downtown Eugene or Valley River Center will be available but service may be limited by post-pandemic staffing shortages. Check the Lane Transit District website for more information.

Originally posted July 17, 2018 by Alan K. Lee. Edited and updated by the author June 8, 2023.

All photos © Alan K. Lee

Hoyt Arboretum Hike

Hoyt Arboretum

Where: Washington Park, Portland, Oregon

Distance: 2.4 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: Approx. 600 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map: Hoyt Arboretum Map

Overview:

Hoyt Arboretum was created in 1928 to help conserve endangered species and educate the public about the need to do so. Over its 95 years of existence, more than 6000 trees and plants representing more than 2000 species and varieties from around the world have been planted in the arboretum, many of them threatened or endangered. One of the things that makes the arboretum special, in my opinion, is that it has the look and feel of a natural forest, not a botanical garden, and even though many of the trees and plants are not native to the Pacific Northwest, they are incorporated into the forest and never seem out of place.

Hoyt Arboretum offers a multitude of possible hikes over its 189 acres and 12 miles of trails. The hike described here passes through many of the arboretum’s tree collections and is a good introduction to the arboretum for anyone that has not visited previously. It also incorporates several short sections of the iconic Wildwood Trail that meanders for 30 miles through Washington and Forest Parks. The trail junctions in the arboretum are well signed, so it would be hard to get lost, but the sheer number of intersecting trails can be confusing. I recommend carrying a map of the trail system whenever you’re hiking in the arboretum. Download and print the arboretum map linked above or pick up a free map and brochure at the visitor center. The brochure provides some interesting information and has a larger and more easily read map than the download.

Getting there:

The Visitor Center is located at 4000 Fairview Boulevard SW, Portland, Oregon 97221. It can be reached by car via West Burnside Street or US Hwy 26. Parking at the visitor center costs $2 per hour (free before 9:30 am) or $8 per day. There are other free parking areas (including along Fairview Blvd in front of the visitor center) that are shown on the map, but most are small and are often full. Public transit options include TriMet bus line #63 (with a stop at the Visitor Center) and the MAX light rail red and blue lines. The Washington Park Station on the light rail lines is 200 feet below ground with an elevator to the surface entrance located between the Oregon Zoo and the World Forestry Center. And there is a free shuttle bus that runs through Washington Park and makes stops at the zoo, Hoyt Arboretum, and the Japanese Garden.

Trailheads:

There are multiple trailheads that can be used to access the hike described here, but the Hoyt Arboretum Visitor Center is a logical starting point and the one used for this description. The Visitor Center includes a small gift shop and public restrooms.

The hike:

This hike starts at the opposite end of the parking lot from the Visitor Center. Look for the paved Overlook Trail to the left. Follow the paved path to the first trail junction and turn left onto the gravel Wildwood Trail. At the next trail junction turn left onto the Magnolia Trail, which switchbacks down to and across Upper Cascade Drive and through the arboretum’s Magnolia Collection.

Just before reaching Cascade Drive, turn right onto the Beech Trail and cross the road into the Winter Garden. Just beyond the Winter Garden, turn left onto another section of the Wildwood Trail and follow it as it climbs up to Fairview Blvd. Across the road the trail descends through the forest to the Redwood Deck, which provides a good view into the arboretum’s Redwood Collection.

Continue on the Wildwood Trail past the junction with the Redwood Trail, descending to Johnson Creek. Stay on the Wildwood Trail, passing the junction with the Creek Trail, as it climbs up the slope west of the creek. At the next junction, turn left onto the connector trail that takes you to Fisher Lane.

Cross Fisher Lane onto the White Pine Trail, which gradually climbs away from the road to a ridge, where it turns south and runs along the western edge of the arboretum for about three quarters of a mile, through the White Pine and Hemlock Collections, to Fairview Blvd where it ends.

Cross Fairview Blvd and take the connector trail to the right, which descends to a junction with another section of the Wildwood Trail. Turn left onto Wildwood and follow it, crossing Knights Blvd. Just before reaching a water reservoir, turn left onto a connector trail that takes you to the Holly Trail. Follow the Holly Trail down a set of stone steps to the parking lot where the hike started.

Other area attractions and activities:

Washington Park is home to the Oregon Zoo, the World Forestry Center, the Portland Japanese Garden, the Oregon Vietnam Veterans Memorial, and the International Rose Test Garden, in addition to Hoyt Arboretum.

Posted June 3, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

Tryon Creek Hike

Where: Tryon Creek State Natural Area, Portland, Oregon

Distance: 2.4 miles

Type: Loop

Elevation gain: 350 feet

Difficulty: Easy

Map: Oregon State Parks

Overview:

Tryon Creek State Natural Area is a 658 acre preserve in southwest Portland that is much loved and well used. The area had been logged between 1870 and 1960 to make railroad ties and provide fuel for a wood-fired iron smelter in nearby Lake Oswego. In the 1960s the area was slated for development, but a group of local residents created the Friends of Tryon Creek organization that successfully lobbied to protect the area. Tryon Creek State Park was created by the Oregon legislature and opened to the public in 1975. Friends of Tryon Creek continues to be an active participant in maintaining and managing the park. For more information on the park, go to their website or click here to view an earlier post on this site.

There are a myriad of loops and out-and- back hikes possible at Tryon Creek. The park has a total of 15 miles of trails, including a short all access paved trail, a paved bike path that runs the length of the park, all-use trails open to horses, and hiker-only trails. Dogs are permitted on leash. Bikes are not permitted, except on the designated bike path. The park is a day-use area only. Camping is prohibited.

All of the trails are well used, so you’re unlikely to find real solitude here, unless you come during really bad weather. But that doesn’t detract much from the park’s appeal. In general, the farther from the Nature Center that you get the fewer people that you’ll encounter. The southern and western parts of the park are the least used. The hike described here includes two of my favorite trails, the Big Fir and Lewis and Clark trails, but they’re also two of the most traveled trails in the park.

Getting there:

The main entrance to the park is located at 11321 Terwilliger Boulevard in southwest Portland. To get there by car, take I-5 south from Portland to the Terwillger Boulevard exit (#297). Cross back over the freeway on Terwilliger and follow it for 2.4 miles to the park’s main entrance. Public transport is available via Trimet bus lines 38 and 39.

Trailheads:

The primary trailheads and largest parking area in the park (by far) are located at the main entry on Terwilliger Boulevard, and this hike starts there. There are six other trailheads scattered around the perimeter of the park.

The hike:

The hike begins at the Nature Center, where you can pick up a free map if you haven’t printed out the Oregon State Parks map linked above, and get park information from the staff. The trails in the park are well signed, but there are so many intersecting trails that a map can be very helpful, especially if you’re new to the park.

From the Nature Center take the Old Main Trail south. This is a wide gravel path that also serves as a service road. In about a tenth of a mile turn right onto the Big Fir Trail.

This short trail (less than half a mile) winds through some of the largest Douglas fir trees in the park, along with many mature bigleaf maples, and descends toward Tryon Creek. It is, in my opinion, one of the prettiest trails in the park. Stay left at the junctions with the Center and Maple Ridge trails. The Big Fir Trail then rejoins the Old Main Trail.

Turn right onto the Old Main Trail and cross Tryon Creek on Obie’s Bridge at the 0.7-mile mark of the hike. This is the lowest point on this loop. Just beyond the bridge, turn right onto the West Horse Loop. This is a mixed use trail used by both hikers and equestrians (hikers are required to give way to horses). In a tenth of a mile, turn right onto the hiker-only Middle Creek Trail, which follows Tryon Creek to High Bridge at the one-mile mark of the hike.

Turn left onto the Lewis and Clark Trail at the junction just beyond High Bridge. This trail recently reopened after being closed for several years after the original Terry Reilly Memorial Bridge washed out in a flood. The Lewis and Clark Trail might be my favorite trail in the whole park. It has a few steep sections and can be slippery when wet, but it is also one of the wildest trails in the park. The trail winds through the second-growth Douglas fir and bigleaf maple forest with a typical temperate rainforest understory of ferns, shrubs, and vine maple. You’ll cross a tributary of Tryon Creek on the new, higher, and much sturdier Terry Reilly Bridge.

From the bridge the trail climbs through the forest. This is a prime location for trilliums, the three petal white to purple flowers that are the signature plant of the park. On my latest hike here the trilliums were past their prime but there were a few still in bloom.

Three tenths of a mile from the Terry Reilly Bridge you’ll see a short connector trail between the Lewis and Clark Trail and the North Horse Loop. Stay left on the the Lewis and Clark Trail for another couple of hundred yards. This is the highest point of the hike. At the junction, turn south (right). This will bring you to another junction with the North Horse Loop.

At the junction turn left onto the North Horse Loop and follow the mixed use trail for four tenths of a mile to another junction. Stay left there, then right at the next junction at the 2.0-mile mark of the hike. Continue on the North Horse Loop for another quarter-mile, then take a short connector trail to your right to a junction with the Maple Ridge Trail. Turn left there and return to the Nature Center.

Other area attractions and activities:

Tryon Creek is only a few miles from downtown Portland, where you’ll find one of my favorite outdoor spaces in Portland, the Lan Su Chinese Garden, a true urban oasis in the middle of the city. Not far from downtown, in Washington Park, is another of my favorite places, the Portland Japanese Garden. And not far from that, also in Washington Park, is Hoyt Arboretum. Those three places, easily visited in a single day, make for a triumvirate of incredibly beautiful places for the outdoor enthusiast to relish the best of what Portland has to offer.

Posted May 18, 2023 by Alan K. Lee.

God’s Thumb Hike

Where: Oregon Coast

Type: Out and back

Distance: 4.5 miles

Elevation gain: 1100 feet

Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Map: Oregon Hikers website

Overview:

God’s Thumb is a conical basalt headland rising out of the sea like a giant thumb just north of Lincoln City, Oregon. I first laid eyes on God’s Thumb in the 1980s, from the open grassland on the summit of Cascade Head. From there the Salmon River Estuary is immediately below you and just beyond is the town of Lincoln City. In between, there is a rocky headland – God’s Thumb. There’s also an isolated cove and a nice beach visible from Cascade Head. I wondered how you could get there. When I inquired about the area, I was disappointed to find out that you couldn’t. Even though God’s Thumb was (and is) part of the Siuslaw National Forest, there was no public access to it. The only ways to get there crossed private property that were not open to the public.

The God’s Thumb hike remained closed to the public until about a decade ago. Although people occasionally trespassed across private property to get to it, God’s Thumb remained largely unknown. But in 2013 Lincoln City purchased about 500 acres of property that was the site of a failed subdivision and negotiated an easement with the owner of the neighboring property, making God’s Thumb legally accessible to the public for the first time.

Trailhead:

The God’s Thumb hike starts just north of Lincoln City. Coming from Lincoln City, go north on Hwy 101, past the turn to Road’s End and Chinook Winds Casino, and turn left onto NE Devil’s Lake Boulevard at the next traffic signal. The trailhead is on your left just before the cul de sac at the end of the road.

The hike:

From the parking area at the trailhead, the trail wanders through the woods for about a quarter mile before crossing Logan Creek on a bridge. On the other side of the creek you’ll come to Sal La Sea Drive. You’ll note that there is a small parking lot there. Turn right and walk up Sal La Sea Drive another quarter mile and turn right onto Port Drive. You’ll see a gate ahead. You’ll also note that there is parking for four or five cars at the end of Sal La Sea Drive. (See A few notes on parking, below). Walk around the gate and follow an old gravel road straight up the hill. In about a quarter of a mile you’ll come to a junction. Turn left and walk out to The Knoll.

You don’t want to skip this because the view here is spectacular. The Pacific Ocean is spread out before you in all its glory. The Road’s End section of Lincoln City is directly below you. Lincoln City stretches out before you, with Devil’s Lake to the east and Siletz Bay to the south. The view extends south to Cape Foulweather. You might want to park yourself on the grassy summit and just sit for a while. Apparently, the local herd of elk also like the view because they often bed down here at night.

When you’re done taking in the view from The Knoll, return to the main trail and continue north. This portion of the trail is on the easement granted to the city by the property owner. The trail takes you through a spruce and hemlock forest and across a small meadow. Parts of the trail are steep, but the elevation gain is modest, and most people won’t have any difficulty. You’ll soon come to a trail junction. Stay left to continue on to God’s Thumb. You’ll pass through more spruce, hemlock and alder forest, and across several grassy meadows before the trail swings to the west and comes to another trail junction. The trail to the right comes up from the private Camp Westwind on the Salmon River Estuary. Stay left at the junction and you’ll soon see God’s Thumb in front of you. Stop here and admire the view of The Thumb and the surrounding cliffs, the two coves and beaches on either side of The Thumb, and Cascade Head to the north.

The trail then drops steeply down the slope and across along a narrow ridge before climbing very steeply up the slope to the summit of God’s Thumb. This section can be tricky to navigate and can also be slippery if the trail is wet. Some people choose not to venture down and then up to the summit. But if you do, you’ll be rewarded with magnificent views in all directions. Even if you don’t, the views you do get make the hike well worthwhile.

When you’re done taking in the views, return the way you came. When you reach the second trail junction, before you get to The Knoll, you have the option of taking the trail to the left for an alternate, slightly longer route back to the end of Devil’s Lake Boulevard where you left your car. Check the Oregon Hikers website for a description of this trail and more information about the whole hike. If you don’t take the alternate route, venture out to The Knoll again. The view might be completely different if the fog has come in (or gone out).

A few notes on parking:

The two parking areas along Sal La Sea Drive that I mentioned are both okay to park in (legally) if you want to shorten your hike a little. But they’re not officially sanctioned because they fill up quickly and many people have parked on residential streets close by when they are full, to the ire of the local residents. Please do not park on any residential street. The Devil’s Lake trailhead was developed to give hikers an additional parking area and lessen the amount of people parking where they shouldn’t. If all of the parking areas mentioned are full, you can park at Road’s End State Recreational Area on Logan Road and walk up Sal La Sea Drive to the Port Drive trailhead. That makes the round-trip hike only about half a mile longer than starting at the Devil’s Lake Boulevard trailhead. And under no circumstances should you use the shorter trail from the end of Logan Road to get to God’s Thumb. The property owner has not granted public access across their property. They haven’t fenced it off, but please respect their property rights. And besides, there is no public parking anywhere on Logan Road other than at Road’s End State Recreation Area, so you risk having your vehicle towed if you park illegally.

Other area hikes and other attractions:

Other worthwhile hikes in the Lincoln City area include the Nature Conservancy’s Cascade Head Preserve, the Hartz Cove Trail on the north side of Cascade Head, and the Drift Creek Falls Trail in the Coast Range foothills to the east. More on those in later posts. And farther south, the Beaver Creek State Natural Area offers a nice, quiet, and peaceful hike that not many people know about.

And the central coast from Lincoln City to Newport has numerous other attractions, including the Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport, the charming (but increasingly touristy) town of Depoe Bay, Chinook Winds Casino in Lincoln City, and numerous state parks and waysides.

Originally posted (in a slightly different format) May 19, 2021 by Alan K. Lee. Edited, reformatted, and re-posted May 3, 2023.

Cape Lookout Hike

Cape Trail

Where: Cape Lookout State Park, northern Oregon coast

Type: Out and back

Distance: 4.8 miles

Elevation gain: 500 feet

Difficulty: Moderate (for distance and rough trail)

Map: Cape Lookout State Park Trail Guide

Guidebooks:

100 Hikes / Travel Guide Oregon Coast & Coast Range – William L. Sullivan

Beer Hiking Pacific Northwest – Rachel Wood & Brandon Fralic

60 Hikes Within 60 Miles Portland – Paul Gerald

Day Hiking Oregon Coast – Bonnie Henderson

Overview:

Cape Lookout is a narrow sliver of land extending two miles out into the Pacific Ocean between Cape Meares and Cape Kiwanda. The hike to its tip provides the hiker with a unique experience and some of the best viewpoints on the entire coast. The trail passes through an old growth spruce-hemlock forest with an understory of salal, salmonberry, huckleberry, and sword ferns. In summer the open areas are carpeted with wildflowers. The end of the trail, at the top of a cliff 400 feet above the ocean, is one of the best whale watching spots on the Oregon coast and one of the best places to observe sea birds.

Best times to go:

This trail can be hiked any time of the year, but trail conditions are usually best in late summer and early fall. Even then, the trail can be muddy. At other times of the year, it can be very muddy in places. The best times to avoid crowds are the winter months or anytime that it is raining. So, if solitude is what you’re after, gear up and go. On summer weekends the parking area fills up quickly, so it’s best to go early in the morning or in the evening after most of the crowd has gone home.

Getting there:

From Tillamook, take Ore Hwy 131 (Three Capes Scenic Route) west. At 5.0 miles, angle left onto Whiskey Creek Road. At the Netarts Bayfront, rejoin the Three Capes Scenic Route and follow it south to Cape Lookout State Park. The trailhead is 2.7 miles beyond the entrance to the state park campground and day use area.

From Lincoln City, take US Hwy 101 north and turn left onto Booten Road (1.4 miles north of the Nestucca River bridge). Proceed to Pacific City. Turn left onto Pacific Avenue and re-cross the Nestucca River. Immediately west of the bridge turn right on Cape Kiwanda Drive and follow it past Pelican Brewing. North of Cape Kiwanda (see the Other Attractions section below) the road becomes McPhillips Drive then Sand Lake Road. Continue to the T intersection, turn left, and proceed 3.2 miles to the trailhead.

Trailhead: Cape Lookout State Park

There are no facilities at the trailhead, but water and restrooms can be found at the day use area of the state park, just north of the cape.

The hike:

From the end of the parking area, take the Cape Trail to the left. (To the right is the trailhead of the North Trail, which descends 2.3 miles to the state park day use area). On the Cape Trail, in about a hundred yards you’ll come to the junction with the South Trail, which descends 1.8 miles to a little used beach.

The Cape Trail then descends gradually to a viewpoint at the 0.6-mile mark where you can see south to Cape Kiwanda and Cascade Head. Near the overlook, look for a bronze plaque set in stone that commemorates the site where a B-17 bomber crashed on a foggy day in 1943.

From there, the trail crosses to the north side of the cape and comes to a viewpoint at the 1.2-mile mark. Here you can see north to Cape Meares and Three Arch Rocks. Just west of the viewpoint, the original trail slid into the ocean about 30 years ago. The present trail detours away from the cliff through a boggy area on a boardwalk.

The trail returns to the south side of the cape and continues for another 1.2 miles, climbing and descending several times, to a viewpoint at the end of the cape, 400 feet above the ocean. Views there stretch from Cape Foulweather, 40 miles to the south, to Neahkannie Mountain, 40 miles to the north.

The end of the trail is the best spot to see gray whales. It’s not uncommon to see a dozen or more in an hour as they round the tip of the cape during the peaks of their spring and fall migrations. The journey between their feeding grounds in the Bering Sea and their breeding and calving grounds in Baja California is a round trip of more than 6000 miles.

You’ll probably linger for a while at the end of the trail, but when you’ve had your fill of sightseeing and whale watching, return to the parking area the way you came.

Other hiking options:

The North Trail is a 4.6-mile out and back hike with 800 feet of elevation gain from the day use area at Cape Lookout State Park to the beginning of the Cape Trail (or a 2.3-mile one way hike if you have someone drop you off at either end). For the ambitious, the North Trail and the Cape Trail can be combined into a 9.4-mile out and back hike with 1300 feet of elevation gain.

The South Trail is a 3.6-mile out and back hike with 800 feet of elevation gain from the Cape Trail to the beach to the south. The South Trail can also be combined with a 4.0-mile beach walk to an RV parking area as a 5.8-mile shuttle trip.

From the state park day use area, the beach to the north extends more than five miles to the mouth of Netarts Bay, making for out and back options up to 10+ miles in length. (Looping back along the bayfront is not an option.)

Other area attractions and activities:

To the north of Cape Lookout, the small town of Oceanside, one of my favorite small towns on the northern Oregon coast, has a nice beach (with a unique tunnel through the headland at the north end that leads to a very picturesque beach) and several good places to get a bite to eat. North of Oceanside, Cape Meares State Park has a working lighthouse, several short trails, and another good whale watching site.

Cape Kiwanda with Cape Lookout in the distance

To the south, Cape Kiwanda is a sandstone headland that is unlike any of the other rocky headlands on the Oregon coast. Just to its south, the town of Pacific City has a nice beach that is home to Oregon’s only dory fleet of fishing boats that launch directly from the beach. Pelican Brewing, on the beachfront, is one of the coast’s largest (and best) brew pubs, and there are several other decent places in town to get food or drink.

In conclusion:

The Cape Trail at Cape Lookout is one of the best hikes on the northern Oregon coast and one of the best places to watch gray whales on their annual migration. Combine the hike with visits to Cape Meares and Cape Kiwanda for an outstanding and easy day trip from the Portland or Salem areas.

Posted April 6, 2023 by Alan K. Lee

The Trail of Ten Falls

The Trail of Ten Falls

Where: Silver Falls State Park

Distance: 7.2 miles

Elevation gain: 800 feet

Difficulty: Moderate (for length a steep climb out of the canyon)

Map: Oregon State Parks map and brochure

Guidebooks:

Hiking Waterfalls in Oregon by Adam Sawyer

Afoot & Afield: Portland/Vancouver by Douglas Lorain

100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades by William L Sullivan

Waterfall Lover’s Guide: Pacific Northwest by Gregory A. Plumb

Waterfalls of the Pacific Northwest by David L. Anderson

Overview:

Silver Falls was voted Oregon’s favorite state park a few years ago, and for good reason. With more than ten waterfalls, six of them more than 90 feet in height, Silver Falls is a waterfall lovers paradise. And the Trail of Ten Falls (there are actually eleven named and at least one unnamed falls along the trail) is one of the finest hiking trails in the Pacific Northwest. I don’t know of anywhere else where you can see a dozen falls on a single hike, and four of them here have trails that actually take you behind the falls.

It’s no wonder, then, that Silver Falls can be crowded. The area around South Falls gets by far the most use and can be very crowded on summer weekends. But this is a spectacularly beautiful hike and is worth doing even at the park’s busiest times.

Best Times to Go:

Flows in the creeks are at their highest, and the falls at their most spectacular, in winter and early spring. Late September through October is best for fall color. Summer is best for reliably good weather, but the park is almost always crowded with other hikers in summer. For my money, the best times are weekday mornings in spring and fall. But there is no bad time to hike here, except when there is snow or ice on the trails. But even in mid-winter, the trails are usually open and snow free, and you might even have the trail to yourself.

Getting there:

Coming from the north, take exit 271 off I-5 at Woodburn. Proceed through Woodburn on Ore Hwy 214, which will take you through the towns of Mount Angel and Silverton. The park is about 12 miles from Silverton.

Trailheads:

There are two primary trailheads that can be used for this hike. The North Falls trailhead has a fairly small parking lot, but the recent (July 2023) opening of the North Canyon day-use area more than doubles the amount of parking on the north end of the park. And the new North Rim Trail connects the two parking areas, so either can be used as the north end trailhead. The South Falls area gets much more use than the north end, but also has much more parking, so it is the most common starting point for this hike. The trail can also be accessed from the Winter Falls trailhead.

The hike:

Most people start and end their hikes at the South Falls Day Use Area, so I’ll start there as well. From the parking area, follow the signs to the top of South Falls. There is a viewpoint there, and seeing the creek disappear over the edge of the cliff is a pretty awesome sight. From there, the trail descends to a good vantage point a quarter of a mile or so down the trail. There are several more places where you can get a good view of the entire falls farther down the trail before it dives behind the falls.

Just below the first viewpoint look for a signed side trail to Frenchie Falls. This is the eleventh named falls and the smallest by volume. When I was last there, in early June, it was just a trickle, and it often dries out by mid-summer. But it’s worth a look.

Continue down the main trail, which will take you behind South Falls. Here you will be between two layers of the Columbia River Basalt lava flows that are about 15-16 million years old. In between is a softer layer of sedimentary rock laid down by an ancient stream. This softer layer has eroded away to form the “cave” behind the falls.

Below the falls there are several good viewpoints. Just downstream of the falls you’ll come to the first trail junction. The trail across the bridge will take you back to the parking area. Continuing on the Canyon Trail, you’ll next come to Lower South Falls at approximately the one-mile mark. Here the trail also goes behind the falls.

Below the falls, you’ll come to the junction with the Maple Ridge Trail at the 1.4-mile mark. The Maple Ridge Trail climbs out of the canyon and returns to the parking area, making for a 2.5-mile loop. Beyond the Maple Ridge Trail junction, the Canyon Trail leaves the south fork of Silver Creek and joins the north fork. Following the creek upstream, look for an intermittent waterfall across the creek at the 1.9-mile mark.

Next up is Drake Falls (27 feet), then the 106-foot drop of Middle North Falls. A side trail here leads behind the falls, but dead ends on the other side. Back on the main trail, you will come to the junction of the Winter Falls Trail at the 2.9-mile mark. A half mile out and back side trip will take you to the base of Winter Falls.

Like Double Falls, Winter Falls is on a side stream and the volume of water is much less than the falls on North and South Silver Creeks. From the falls, the Winter Falls Trail will take you up out of the canyon to a junction with the Rim Trail. From there you can return to the South Falls Day Use Area to complete a 4.5-mile loop.

If you return to the Canyon Trail, you will next come to Twin Falls (31 feet), three tenths of a mile from the Winter Falls Trail junction. Just beyond Twin Falls there is a steep side trail leading up to the new North Canyon day-use area (the old group camp area) trailhead.

Stay on the Canyon Trail for another mile to North Falls (134 feet). Here once again the trail goes behind the falls. Look up to the ceiling of the overhang and you may be able make out cylindrical indentations that were formed when lava flowed around tree trunks and solidified before the trees burned. From North Falls, the trail climbs steeply to the North Falls trailhead three tenths of a mile beyond the falls.

The 0.6 mile out and back trail to Upper North Falls (65 feet) passes under the highway bridge at the North Falls parking area.

Back at the North Falls trailhead, take the Rim Trail. At about 0.3 miles from the North Falls trailhead you’ll come to a nice view back to North Falls. From there, it is 1.6 miles on a mostly flat trail back to the South Falls parking area.

Other area attractions and activities:

Silver Falls State Park is Oregon’s largest state park. In addition to the Trail of Ten Falls, the park has 35 miles of back country trails open to hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. There is also a campground with 91 camp sites and 14 cabins, and a café and a nature store at the South Falls Day Use Area.

The Trail of Ten Falls is an iconic hiking trail that every serious hiker in the state has likely done multiple times. It’s so spectacular that it alone is worth making the trek to Oregon from wherever you reside, no matter how far away that is. As an Oregon resident, I know I’m a little biased, but I don’t think I’m exaggerating here. If you’re a waterfall lover, come see for yourself. A trip to Silver Falls, combined with a visit to the waterfalls of the Columbia River Gorge will make for an unforgettable experience.

Posted March 27, 2023 by Alan K. Lee. Updated August 2, 2023.